I haven't found this inductor for a long time. Do you know it?

[Benjam]

I haven't found this inductor for a long time. Do you know it?

[Terry Bites]

Its very likely a 470uH indcutor. What's it from? Measure the dimensions and the DC resistance. Usually only the DC reistance at the right indcutance matters. There will be many candidates.

 try https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/filter/fixed-inductors/71?s=N4IgjCBcoEwAwA4DsVQGMoDMCGAbAzgKYA0IA9lANogAsArHAAQB2AEiKTUkwK3sC6pAA4AXKCACqzAJYiA8pgCyhbPgCuAJ0IgAvjtJ1UIIVBjCTkGHT1A

[Benjam]

I can't measure it because it was accidentally damaged by the tip

[dmills]

More likely 47uH then 470uH (Which I would expect to be labelled 471 in these).

 

[Benjam]

I want to replace it now, but I can't find the same model, because I can't measure any value at present. I can only rely on this picture to judge the model selection.

[wraper]

Should be 47uH not 470uh, and you did not even provide dimensions or say where it's used.

[Benjam]

It's probably 47uh. There's line 1848 below. I don't quite understand what it means.

[Benjam]

I made some simple marks. The device "470 1848" is next to the brake terminal, and then I made some simple marks nearby. In the picture, I marked two question marks, of which the yellow one should also be an inductor, but the blue one, I don't know what it is. Then will this "470 1848" be a "power inductor"?

[timenutgoblin]

The inductor looks like Würth Elektronik power inductor 47µH. 1848 might be the date code (2018, week 48). It could be a batch number.

It looks like this one:

https://www.distrelec.biz/en/we-lhmi-smd-power-inductor-47uh-45a-3mhz-330mohm-wuerth-elektronik-74437349470/p/30185122

[Benjam]

Thank you very much for your guidance. I felt the same way at first. I checked many similar products on mouser, but unfortunately, how to determine the specific value, such as:

“Maximum DC Resistance”

“Rated Current”

“Self-Resonant Frequency”

These should be important!

[timenutgoblin]

Measure the physical dimensions of your inductor before getting a replacement.

Check here for examples:
https://www.digikey.com.au/en/product-highlight/w/wurth-electronics/we-lhmi

[Benjam]

Is it possible to determine which model just by physical size?

[radiolistener]

I haven't found this inductor for a long time. Do you know it?

This is inductor 47 uH

[wraper]

Is it possible to determine which model just by physical size?

No. But as minimum you need an inductor of the same size. SMD power inductors of the same size usually have more or less similar ratings. You have a better chance finding exactly the same part by it's looks when you know what you are looking for, catalogs have filters. Not to say it's quite safe to chose an inductor with one of the highest current ratings for its size and inductance, and use it as substitute.

[Benjam]

you are right

[Benjam]

Is it possible to determine which model just by physical size?

No. But as minimum you need an inductor of the same size. SMD power inductors of the same size usually have more or less similar ratings. You have a better chance finding exactly the same part by it's looks when you know what you are looking for, catalogs have filters. Not to say it's quite safe to chose an inductor with one of the highest current ratings for its size and inductance, and use it as substitute.

the size value is: 

Length: 11.00mm
Width: 9.93mm
Height: 4.00mm

[Benjam]

So, by filtering through length, width, and height, I get these results:

https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine?FS=TRUE&N=4294627068+4294638967+4292861026+4292894102+4292906361

[Terry Bites]

I concur doctor.

[T3sl4co1l]

Also the other thing is a fuse, 2410 (imperial) size "brick" type.

Note that inductors have two important parameters, and a number of other less common ones.  You're probably never going to know anything about high frequency properties (core losses, AC resistance..), so that's out, but the inductance and current rating are of primary importance.  Inductance is probably 47uH as above, and current is probably as much as you can find for a part of that size -- inductors aren't wildly different, they tend to offer as much capacity as they can, in the size they have.

The other things we can tell: it's a molded or composite type chip, and may be called "shielded".  It's certainly not a ferrite drum/bobbin type, nor a multilayer chip.

So what's brought things to this point?  Inductors rarely fail by themselves, and more likely a nearby switching circuit has already failed, causing the inductor, fuse, and various other things up or downstream of it, to fail in turn.  All these must be checked, and replaced if failed.  Often that's more than half the electronics in the thing, and, well -- that's why electronics tend to be so disposable these days, there's really very little worth repairing in them sadly.

Tim

[timenutgoblin]

Looks like it's shielded. Here's a Bourns Inc. inductor more closely matching the appearance in the photo:

https://passive-components.eu/bourns-adds-three-new-automotive-grade-series-to-its-high-current-shielded-power-inductor-line/

[Benjam]

Also the other thing is a fuse, 2410 (imperial) size "brick" type.

Note that inductors have two important parameters, and a number of other less common ones.  You're probably never going to know anything about high frequency properties (core losses, AC resistance..), so that's out, but the inductance and current rating are of primary importance.  Inductance is probably 47uH as above, and current is probably as much as you can find for a part of that size -- inductors aren't wildly different, they tend to offer as much capacity as they can, in the size they have.

The other things we can tell: it's a molded or composite type chip, and may be called "shielded".  It's certainly not a ferrite drum/bobbin type, nor a multilayer chip.

So what's brought things to this point?  Inductors rarely fail by themselves, and more likely a nearby switching circuit has already failed, causing the inductor, fuse, and various other things up or downstream of it, to fail in turn.  All these must be checked, and replaced if failed.  Often that's more than half the electronics in the thing, and, well -- that's why electronics tend to be so disposable these days, there's really very little worth repairing in them sadly.

Tim

You are right