Crimping non-insulated quick disconnects / fastons

[hyperknot]

Hi,

I'm about to start my first DIY audio amp builds and I've been researching a lot about crimping. Here is what I come up with:

1. For 4.8 mm / 6.3 mm quick disconnects / faston connectors, I'm looking to buy a reliable but affordable crimp tool. I'd crimp these non-insulated and cover them in head-shrink afterwards.
2. For everything else (JST, Molex, etc.) I'll buy pre-crimped wires, as it wouldn't make sense for me to buy the expensive tools needed to crimp these.

What crimp tool should I buy? A cheap, noname Aliexpress / Banggood kind of racheting tool or a simple but high quality non-racheting one?

I know many people buy professional tools here, but I'm only planning to use this for 10, maybe 20 times in total. I'm happy to invest $20-30 in a tool, but not $200+.

For example this is what looks really nice to me, about 20 EUR in Europe.
Knipex 97 21 215 B Crimping Plier




The alternative would be some cheap racheting one like this:
4 in 1 ratchet crimper cable wire crimping plier electrical terminals plier tool kit Sale - Banggood.com



or this:
Paron(R) jx-d5 multifunctional ratchet crimping tool wire strippers terminals pliers kit Sale - Banggood.com


Then for the connectors, what should I look for? What brand, what material, locking mechanism, etc.? Is TE considered the best one?

Here is a filtered search I made at TME.eu about the ones I believe are fitting for me.

About the insulation, I'm thinking about using heat-shrink after crimping as I can make a more precise crimping this way.

What do you recommend?

[T3sl4co1l]

Think I'd rather have the brand name pliers kind over no-name ratcheting kind, but I've not used either tool exactly.  Maybe someone here has direct experience with those.

I have a, this or one of its friends: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/aven-tools/10190/243-1578-ND/9858991 , which works fine.  The basic idea is you want to squeeze the barrel, and wire inside, enough to squash all the strands together (making it air tight, more or less), while also pinching it in such a way that the wire stretches inside the barrel, holding it in tension after pressure is released.

Honestly, for just a few, in a noncritical application, you can smash them with pliers (usually there's a spaced jaw on the handle side).  It won't hold much tension -- it's pretty much smashed flat, held only between what texture the jaw faces imprinted.  Then fill in the gaps with solder.  It won't be as reliable as a properly crimped joint, but it'll be a far sight better than a wrapped or lap joint.  Think of it as a tight fitting solder-pot joint.

Also consider spring cage terminal blocks (super easy to use; not as great for handling amperes), screw terminals, pluggable blocks (e.g. Phoenix 1755736 and mate), and so on. 

Tim

[james_s]

The ratcheting tools are the way to go, or at least something that has proper dies. I have a few of the cheap ratcheting tools and they're fine, although I can't speak for all of them. Mine are inexpensive but not the absolute cheapest available, I think I paid around $40. I primarily use them for coax connectors for which there is really no alternative.

[kallek]

For non-insulated flat connectors I have used Knipex 97 22 240. I was a bit disappointed that it was not made in Germany as other Knipex pliers I have, but at least so far it has worked well.

I also have Engineer PA-09 crimping tool for smaller connectors. It is good quality and made in Japan, but rather expensive. I have so far only crimped Molex kk-series connectors with it. With practise and patience one can make very nice crimps with it.

[SparkyFX]

The flat tools like the Knipex shown have the advantage that you can crimp wire and insulation parts of a crimp connector seperate, as long as the shape fits it, so you can work with a wide variety of sizes and types.

The wide ratchet types really only do the type of connector they were designed for, but are imho best for insulated crimp connectors or niche types, otherwise it is hard to check if all went well.

[hyperknot]

How about the pressure / force? Does a Knipex non-racheting one have enough pressure to make the crimp properly? I mean by pressing really strongly with two hands.

Also, any ideas about the connectors themselves? What material should I look for for audio applications? What brand?

[Ian.M]

Depends - if you work dawn to dusk in a heavy manual trade or spend several hours a day weightlifting, you've probably got the grip to use the scissors style crimper effectively, but most bench techs don't  have the muscles to get decent results.  If you drive a desk for a living you may well be so unfit you'll struggle with a decent ratchet crimper on larger terminals!

Avoid scissors style crimpers with the largest die furthest from the pivot unless they are for very small terminals - for large terminals it needs to be as close as possible to the pivot for best leverage.  The smallest die usually needs least pressure so can be furthest from the pivot

Beware of cheap knockoff scissor style crimpers - I've wrecked quite a few trying to get a decent  crimp - the arms or jaws easily bend sideways if they aren't  dead straight on the terminal or you apply any side pressure to the handles.

[tpowell1830]

Not sure if this answers your question, but BigClive had an interesting review and mini-tutorial regarding the crimpers.




Hope this helps...

[hyperknot]

Thanks, that video was very rich in information!

Interesting that it said IWISS branded ones are actually OK quality. It seems that IWISS is like a decent, named brand from China made crimping tools.

Also, I'm considering using fully insulated ones, like these:


+


How do they compare to the non-insulated ones + manual heatshrink tubing?

[themadhippy]

How do they compare to the non-insulated ones + manual heatshrink tubing

you can find the correct size of crimp much quicker with the insulated version.

[Benta]

Also, I'm considering using fully insulated ones, like these:

Don't go there.
The uninsulated types with either heat shrink or shrouds ar far superior.
The insulated types are for "car tuners" fiddling with loudspeakers and are not reliable. Been there, done that and will never return.

[Monkeh]

You'd be absolutely fine with the insulated type and a half way competent ratchet crimper. Despite the claims of Benta, they are used by the millions, probably billions, around the world with adequate results, including in demanding industries..

It's hard to recommend any particular tool and terminal combination unless you're willing to buy specific (and expensive) brands, however.

[hyperknot]

Thanks. For uninsulated ones, how much concern would be the different diemeter in the insulating part vs. the wire part?

I mean rachet dies are made for one particular design, and if I have a thicker insulation for example, it might not push down the wire part properly. Or it might overcrimp the insulation part.

With the fully insulated version, as I see the insulation isn't crimped at all, is that correct? So this problem wouldn't happen, as there is only one "height" which is crimped?

[themadhippy]

The insulated types are for "car tuners" fiddling with loudspeakers and are not reliable. Been there, done that and will never return.

use a decent crimper and the joint will be fine,use a crap tool and problem city.If there so unreliable why are they used thought the electrical industry.

[Benta]

use a decent crimper and the joint will be fine,use a crap tool and problem city.If there so unreliable why are they used thought the electrical industry.

*they're
*throughout
Couldn't resist, sorry.

They're certainly not used generally in the electrical industry. Open any appliance or professional equipment and look. They are used for "here and now" and " let's just get it done" repairs. And they are crap. Period.

[hyperknot]

Benta, what is a shroud BTW? Also, any recommendation for reasonable priced tool for non-insulated ones?

[SparkyFX]

*they're
*throughout
Couldn't resist, sorry.

They're certainly not used generally in the electrical industry. Open any appliance or professional equipment and look. They are used for "here and now" and " let's just get it done" repairs. And they are crap. Period.

I've done many of those crimps, they hold up mechanically as they should , either you use the wrong cross sectional area wire for the connector or something else is horribly wrong in your setup.

[james_s]

Insulated crimp terminals are used in loads of OEM applications. Quality terminals crimped with the correct tool are as reliable as anything.

[wizard69]

This crimper: T&B WT111M, is ideal for smaller non insulated crimp connectors.  If you are doing #10 wire two hands should be used.   The crimper is relatively cheap and lasts a lifetime. 

As for insulated crimp connectors and the supposed proper pliers to go with them, I wouldn’t bother!   The results that I’ve seen are less than spectacular in the field. 

Compound or ratcheting pliers are great but good ones are expensive. 

There are a lot of stamped combination tools out there, some might be better than others but I prefer purpose build crimpers.  The key here is the proper use of leverage with many putting the crimp dies in less than an ideal location. If you go this route invest in a high quality unit.   

[Electro Fan]

I've been down this path and keep going....

Based on my experience the short answer is that your Banggood ratchet kits look good.

Longer answer:

If you are just going to crimp one or a few of the same connectors you can probably save money and go with whatever will get the job done, is readily available, and reasonably inexpensive.  If you think you are going to do crimps on a regular basis then I'd generally recommend a ratchet crimper.  They can go from tens of $ to over a hundred and they come as dedicated crimpers or frames with interchangeable jaws.  I've tried both.  In some case I've found the dedicated crimper make sense - for example with ferrules (can be handy for the ends of DUT wires that will be held by power supply alligators or minigrabbers).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W4O14D2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After trying several crimpers I've started standardizing on this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00788LS0S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00788IUJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007888BXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00788IZSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The challenge is to determine if a particular frame will accommodate requirements you might not yet be able to fully anticipate.  In some cases jaws from one manufacturer will work with a frame from another manufacturer but I'd start with a frame that offers at least some of what you can anticipate.  For example:

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/voicedatavideo-replacement-parts/crimp-die-set-rg58rg59-rg62-rg174-fo#Related%20Items

There is something satisfying about ratchet crimping.

Somewhat off topic, but another cool tool is a RG59/6 compression connector tool

Happy crimping and connectorizing.

[Electro Fan]

On the connectors... there are lots of choices and you can watch and read about them for hours or days.  In the end, you will know after you try a few.  If you start with one of your Banggood ratchet kits that support various jaws you can try different types of connectors and you will know with more certainty what you prefer and you will save time (and $ if your time is worth something) vs. trying to guess one way or the other.  The price of those Banggood sets is so good that even if they don't last forever or solve all your problems you will learn something useful and probably get a bunch of crimps made.  Order a variety of connectors that work with the jaws in the kit you select and see what you determine.  Almost for sure you will enjoy making good ratchet crimps and having good connectors when you need them.

[Cubdriver]

I got one of these a few years ago:

Astro Pneumatic Tool 9477 7-Piece Professional Quick Interchangeable Ratchet Crimping Tool Set



From Amazon; it's currently listed for $66 US and has dies for insulated and uninsulated terminals, among others.  For specialized crimps, I scour the bay of evil and try to find OEM tooling, but for general use the set listed has served me well.  And whoever is saying that crimp terminals are a hack, well, I think that companies like Panduit would disagree.  I've encountered them plenty in industry, and they work well if properly made up.

-Pat

[Benta]

Benta, what is a shroud BTW? Also, any recommendation for reasonable priced tool for non-insulated ones?

I'm sorry, "shroud" is perhaps not the right term. This is what I mean:

[Cubdriver]

Benta, what is a shroud BTW? Also, any recommendation for reasonable priced tool for non-insulated ones?

I'm sorry, "shroud" is perhaps not the right term. This is what I mean:

Those are called 'fully insulated' terminals, at least in my experience.  We used a bunch of them (specified by the customer) in an industrial microwave power supply built by a company where I used to work.

-Pat

[wizard69]

Non insulated crimp terminals are fine.   It is the insulated one I have a lot of hate for.   

Let me explain, I’ve worked in the field of automation and CNC equipment since the 1980’s.   The only crimp type terminals I’ve seen fail consistently are the insulated ones.  It doesn’t matter where the device was built, it is just too easy to have a bad crimp which eventually fails or worse becomes intermittent.   This has happened on machinery built in many countries by different vendors.   Sometimes it is a single connection over a period of time.  Other times I’ve had to reterminate about half the connections in a machine.    So yeah when I see insulated crimps it leaves me feeling like a hack worked on the wiring. 

Now I’d be the first to admit that other connection systems have their issues.   The difference is the problems occur over time while those insulated terminals can cause issues right out of the gate.    By over time I mean 10-20 years

I got one of these a few years ago:

Astro Pneumatic Tool 9477 7-Piece Professional Quick Interchangeable Ratchet Crimping Tool Set

(Attachment Link)

From Amazon; it's currently listed for $66 US and has dies for insulated and uninsulated terminals, among others.  For specialized crimps, I scour the bay of evil and try to find OEM tooling, but for general use the set listed has served me well.  And whoever is saying that crimp terminals are a hack, well, I think that companies like Panduit would disagree.  I've encountered them plenty in industry, and they work well if properly made up.

-Pat