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crying Newbie
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ogden:

--- Quote from: Cerebus on September 21, 2018, 04:07:05 am ---
--- Quote from: ogden on September 20, 2018, 07:42:33 am ---Calgonit contains Sodium citrate and Carbonic acid. It's pH is 10. If he would wrote in the book that jumping off the cliff is good for your PCB's - you would do that? Sometimes you shall use your head or just check what electronics industry is actually doing.

--- End quote ---

Hmm. Who to believe, a dead jolly old man, quick to help, with a worldwide reputation in electronics, called on to consult by all sorts of people or a grumpy old man with a reputation for being acerbic and ungrammatical on electronics fora? Hmmm, so difficult to decide.

--- End quote ---

Getting personal, huh? Do you know that not everybody speak native english as you?  :palm:

[edit] Maybe you just did not find your forum yet? What about this one? https://www.writingforums.org/


--- Quote ---Na, not really. I'd side with old Bob. Especially as he used to take stuff from his dishwasher and actually measure it in rigs where he was looking to detect femtoamp level leakage currents. Like here. Kind of suggests it works, doesn't it?

--- End quote ---

Well, that article does not even contain words "water" or "washing". All I find is talk about DIP packages  :-DD "Very good way" to learn how to wash modern electronics using pressure washer, tap water and Calgonit. You shall give your hotline number so forum readers can seek for help or get contacts of your lawyer [kidding].

Electronics and materials are changed. You cannot say blanket statement anymore "any tap water is good for electronics" just because for Bob Pease it worked. One of problems is that most PCB's today are manufactured with no-clean flux and they are never washed after soldering. That flux, ready to soak every salt that comes near it, is still there on the board. Second obvious problem - small pitch components, especially BGA's.

There's similar discussion, BTW Tektronix practice is mentioned as well:

http://www.circuitinsight.com/programs/50605.html

Article:

https://www.embeddedarm.com/blog/deionized-water-the-gold-standard-for-electronics-cleaning/

[edit] Excerpt from original good wash for your oscilloscope:

I spoke about this with a chemical engineer and he said the crux is the water and the detergent. The water should be the purest you can get, meaning demineralized, deionized, osmosis-treated, i.e. the stuff that does not conduct electricity! Professional window cleaners sell it by the gallon. The detergent should be mild and guaranteed to not leave deposits.
JohnPen:
Back in the seventy's I used hot water and fairy liquid to clean off an old style TV pcb which had been leaked all over by a failing electrolytic capacitor.  The manufacturer for some reason had mounted the capacitor upside down on the chassis frame so that any leak automatically covered the board below it.  The fault had been a rolling picture and the electrolyte had formed a resistive path across the surface of the pcb.  The hot water plus mild detergent treatment cured the problem.  Without knowing how wet the instrument gear got inside or whether anything other than water added itself and how long it remained waterlogged it is difficult to recommend much.  If the enclosed test gear still meets it's self calibration and has been dried out thoroughly, warm or hot area,  for a couple of days it should be OK.  Any easily accessible items using hot water and a mild detergent should be OK BUT make sure the items are thoroughly dry before powering them up again.  Maybe a few days after the wash and brush up. :)
dmills:
Usually the real gotcha with this stuff is pots and switches, sometimes connectors, they tend to go intermittent when all the lubrication has been washed out and replaced with mud.

The other 'fun' is high impedance nodes in things like scope front ends, and especially electrometer front ends (Like say condenser mic front end amps), it takes remarkably little when dealing with 10GOhms in parallel with 30pF to spoil your day.

That said, I have done the dishwasher thing, on a modern board (Known to be built with water washable flux), and followed up by DI water and alcohol, and it was fine. The Dishwasher (No Calgone!) dealt with most of the flux and the DI water rinse got the dissolved solids.  There were however no switches or pots on that board.

Regards, Dan.
ogden:

--- Quote from: JohnPen on September 21, 2018, 11:00:15 am ---Back in the seventy's I used hot water and fairy liquid to clean off an old style TV pcb which had been leaked all over by a failing electrolytic capacitor.  The manufacturer for some reason had mounted the capacitor upside down on the chassis frame so that any leak automatically covered the board below it.  The fault had been a rolling picture and the electrolyte had formed a resistive path across the surface of the pcb.  The hot water plus mild detergent treatment cured the problem.  Without knowing how wet the instrument gear got inside or whether anything other than water added itself and how long it remained waterlogged it is difficult to recommend much.  If the enclosed test gear still meets it's self calibration and has been dried out thoroughly, warm or hot area,  for a couple of days it should be OK.  Any easily accessible items using hot water and a mild detergent should be OK BUT make sure the items are thoroughly dry before powering them up again.  Maybe a few days after the wash and brush up. :)

--- End quote ---

Right. Try the same with RF boards of modern spectrum analyzer, results will differ for sure ;) I washed PCB in kitchen sink as well, but it does not mean that it can be done with any board. You shall understand what you are doing.

Seems, that some trolls one particular troll in this forum just have pathological drive to insult others by all means disregarding facts that disprove their his position.
uc:
Dear all thanks for your support.
Some feedback for you guys,
I have not power up my equipment, agin, as your advice.
I have contact my insuring company and that road could be another chapter.
But I have open up the FLUKE  79iii and clean the board with alcohol. I did find some deposit that must be old and not related to my water problem. Now it works fine. I learn a lot 
I am “chicken out” to do the same action with my RIGOL DS1054X.
And especial the more sensitive SIGLENT SDM3065X, refer to our Mr. tautech commet.
I think I will await the reply from my insurance company.
Take care.
//uc
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