| Electronics > Beginners |
| Dead bug copper clad prototype board advice ? |
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| KL27x:
Stainless steel wool, like you buy for pots and pans. It works great or shining up copper clad. Drop of soap, spritz of water, scrub a dub. Rinse, dry, wipe with a layer of rosin. No dust. |
| IconicPCB:
Simpler yet a few crystals of tartaric acid ( cream of tarter) a food sour additive from supermarket. Wet tarnished copper, sprinkle, rub, let pickle for a few minutes rinse for tarnish free finish. |
| RoGeorge:
For cleaning the copper clad, I use to use toothpaste and a cloth or some paper tissue. Do not put much water, no water, or a drop or two at most, then cleanse the PCB in running water. Alternatively, the harsh part of dish washer sponges works pretty well, too, for cleaning the oxide layer. There is no reason to use harsh chemicals, the copper will oxidase back immediately. The flux will remove the remaining layer anyways. Unless you have ancient PCB, with dark brown oxide layer, you will probably not need cleaning it at all. Usually the flux is enough. If not sure, test it. The solder should "wet" the copper clad. If the solder tends to stay in bulges/droplets it needs cleaning. Important thing while cutting the PCB: avoid power tools that will throw fibers in the air while cutting, like a dremel tool, or at least wear a respiratory mask. It's not smart to put fiber glass in your lungs. Happy RF tinkering. |
| HB9EVI:
Practically I'm not using any other technique than that, using a dremel bit for island cutting: https://www.dremeleurope.com/ch/de/fraeser-hss-4-8mm-134-ocs-p they're available in 3 different sizes before working I'm cleaning up the pcb with steel wool |
| RoGeorge:
One more thing when doing RF PCBs: leave room for shielding. Most of the time, shielding is crucial for RF stability. |
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