Decent Desoldering iron/station

[oxidized]

Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum and i plan to stay as long as i can 
Now let's go to the point.
I'm looking for a decent desoldering iron or station around 200€ (better if under ofc), the hakko fr-300 looks good, but VAT included it ends up costing like ~290€, and i want to stay far below that.
Any idea?

[Kuro]

Dave did a video on one: 

The equivalent in Europe would be this one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B005CHA7IG/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FWW0TBQX0QSQV52JZSCQ

[oxidized]

Thanks for replying!
yeah i saw that, well i'm not sure about the quality, pretty sure he said something like "feels cheap" "Plasticky" but if it's decent then...

[fubar.gr]

It's indeed low quality but it does the job and spare parts, even the whole pistol assembly, are dirt cheap and readily available everywhere.

[oxidized]

It's indeed low quality but it does the job and spare parts, even the whole pistol assembly, are dirt cheap and readily available everywhere.

watching the rest of the video, it seems to be better than what it initially looked and felt, if there's really nothing between this and the hakko fr300, might aswell get this then

[chucksticks]

You could make your own I think...

http://hackaday.com/2013/11/11/build-your-own-desoldering-station-on-the-cheap/

[Gyro]

It's indeed low quality but it does the job and spare parts, even the whole pistol assembly, are dirt cheap and readily available everywhere.

I believe the Proskit branded version sold by Element14 (Farnell) may be slightly better quality. It has a glass solder tube rather than plastic, different solder collection spring (compared to the video) and possibly better seals too I think. I haven't been able to compare them side by side (I have the Proskit), or done any price comparison either. Most part are available as spares though, including the gun. Mine works well anyway...

http://uk.farnell.com/proskit-industries/ss-331bc-f/desoldering-station-60w-240v-eu/dp/2320603


P.S. Changing the 12V fan for a 24V one makes it quite a bit quieter as it is running at 15-17V! 


EDIT: Some useful additional information (The Duratool looks the same as the Proskit):  http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=125263

[oxidized]

It's indeed low quality but it does the job and spare parts, even the whole pistol assembly, are dirt cheap and readily available everywhere.

I believe the Proskit branded version sold by Element14 (Farnell) may be slightly better quality. It has a glass solder tube rather than plastic, different solder collection spring (compared to the video) and possibly better seals too I think. I haven't been able to compare them side by side (I have the Proskit), or done any price comparison either. Most part are available as spares though, including the gun. Mine works well anyway...

http://uk.farnell.com/proskit-industries/ss-331bc-f/desoldering-station-60w-240v-eu/dp/2320603


P.S. Changing the 12V fan for a 24V one makes it quite a bit quieter as it is running at 15-17V! 


EDIT: Some useful additional information (The Duratool looks the same as the Proskit):  http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=125263

Interesting, might get a proskit, or a duratool if i'm able to find one, Thanks for the reply and the useful suggestions! 

[GreyWoolfe]

I have the ZD-985 and it works well for what it is.  It's not a $2,000 JBC desoldering tool, but I have found that if the lead fits into the tip, I can desolder it.  Any tool like this requires maintenance.  Make sure you keep it clean.  Don't release the trigger until a second or 2 after you remove the tip from the pad.  Solder will harden in the gun and it is a pain to clear, not that I have ever done that    Cranking it to full power will make it easier to clean stuck solder. Make sure you have some practice boards to play with.  It's not hard to lift a trace or remove a pad so practice makes perfect.  I let ham friends come and use my soldering stations but I won't let anyone use the ZD-985-I don't want them to damage their stuff.

[oxidized]

I have the ZD-985 and it works well for what it is.  It's not a $2,000 JBC desoldering tool, but I have found that if the lead fits into the tip, I can desolder it.  Any tool like this requires maintenance.  Make sure you keep it clean.  Don't release the trigger until a second or 2 after you remove the tip from the pad.  Solder will harden in the gun and it is a pain to clear, not that I have ever done that    Cranking it to full power will make it easier to clean stuck solder. Make sure you have some practice boards to play with.  It's not hard to lift a trace or remove a pad so practice makes perfect.  I let ham friends come and use my soldering stations but I won't let anyone use the ZD-985-I don't want them to damage their stuff.

Well my first experience with a desoldering iron, was with an old pace ST 115, which was so old i had to clean it up every 20/30 pins, it was pretty good overall, but still, a pain in the a** to clean it and everything.
Anyway i might get the proskit, for ~115€ from farnell, should be pretty much like the ZD-985, but hopefully better built and assembled, if only hakko had something from 150 to 230€...

[Brumby]

I have the ZD-985 and it works well for what it is.  It's not a $2,000 JBC desoldering tool, but I have found that if the lead fits into the tip, I can desolder it.  Any tool like this requires maintenance.  Make sure you keep it clean.  Don't release the trigger until a second or 2 after you remove the tip from the pad.  Solder will harden in the gun and it is a pain to clear, not that I have ever done that    Cranking it to full power will make it easier to clean stuck solder. Make sure you have some practice boards to play with.  It's not hard to lift a trace or remove a pad so practice makes perfect.  I let ham friends come and use my soldering stations but I won't let anyone use the ZD-985-I don't want them to damage their stuff.

I have one of these as well - and I agree with what has been said.  Yes, it does feel cheap - but, from my experience, it does the job and does it quite well.  Plenty of thermal capacity.  Plenty of suction.  The solder receiving chamber can be a bit fiddly to wrangle - but you soon get to know it's idiosyncracies.  I don't do a lot of desoldering, but when I do - this unit makes it a whole lot easier.  I have found it absolutely brilliant on removing headers from double sided boards.

[Gyro]

Just one other note, I use the smallest hole (0.8mm) tip for pretty much everything (unless it won't fit up the hole obviously!). It gives best thermal coupling to the lead as well as the pad, minimising the chance of lifting the pad. Having the close fit also seems to minimise clogging... lower flow volume of solder, moving faster?

The proskit version also comes with an un-drilled tip (don't know about the others). It works well as a large high thermal mass soldering tip for those 'special' occasions. Obviously you don't use the vacuum trigger with it.

[oxidized]

Just one other note, I use the smallest hole (0.8mm) tip for pretty much everything (unless it won't fit up the hole obviously!). It gives best thermal coupling to the lead as well as the pad, minimising the chance of lifting the pad. Having the close fit also seems to minimise clogging... lower flow volume of solder, moving faster?

The proskit version also comes with an un-drilled tip (don't know about the others). It works well as a large high thermal mass soldering tip for those 'special' occasions. Obviously you don't use the vacuum trigger with it.

Alright, so it comes with different tips, or i must buy them separately? I'd prolly need all of them cause when i happen to desolder stuff, i usually encounter different sizes, from tiny ones to, for example, heatsinks, so i guess it's better to be equipped for the occasion

[chris_leyson]

Bought a couple of PACE ST-75 desoldering stations with SX-90 hand piece at auction, they do a nice job but the diaphram air pump is very very loud, in fact so loud I dare not use it a home for fear of waking up my house mates. I might try replacing one of them with an air pump from a small spray paint kit or maybe look for a rotary air pump. Shame really as the hot air tool is quite nice.

[Gyro]

Just one other note, I use the smallest hole (0.8mm) tip for pretty much everything (unless it won't fit up the hole obviously!). It gives best thermal coupling to the lead as well as the pad, minimising the chance of lifting the pad. Having the close fit also seems to minimise clogging... lower flow volume of solder, moving faster?

The proskit version also comes with an un-drilled tip (don't know about the others). It works well as a large high thermal mass soldering tip for those 'special' occasions. Obviously you don't use the vacuum trigger with it.

Alright, so it comes with different tips, or i must buy them separately? I'd prolly need all of them cause when i happen to desolder stuff, i usually encounter different sizes, from tiny ones to, for example, heatsinks, so i guess it's better to be equipped for the occasion

It comes with 3 tips... 0.8, 1.0, and 1.3mm.

I bought mine s/h from a fellow eevblog member so it's possible that the solid tip was added, but was in the same accessory bag.

[oxidized]

Just one other note, I use the smallest hole (0.8mm) tip for pretty much everything (unless it won't fit up the hole obviously!). It gives best thermal coupling to the lead as well as the pad, minimising the chance of lifting the pad. Having the close fit also seems to minimise clogging... lower flow volume of solder, moving faster?

The proskit version also comes with an un-drilled tip (don't know about the others). It works well as a large high thermal mass soldering tip for those 'special' occasions. Obviously you don't use the vacuum trigger with it.

Alright, so it comes with different tips, or i must buy them separately? I'd prolly need all of them cause when i happen to desolder stuff, i usually encounter different sizes, from tiny ones to, for example, heatsinks, so i guess it's better to be equipped for the occasion

It comes with 3 tips... 0.8, 1.0, and 1.3mm.

I bought mine s/h from a fellow eevblog member so it's possible that the solid tip was added, but was in the same accessory bag.

That's perfect! proskit it is! Gonna buy it asap, and see if i can start my custom mechanical keyboard project. You all have been very useful, thanks! 

[Gyro]

Oh, just noticed that CPC do the Duratool brand variant. I'll never understand, they're both Farnell companies  I'm not sure which would work out cheaper in your country - CPC is UK based....

http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD01384?MER=e-bb45-00001001

It gives less detail of what's included, just says conical tip and the picture doesn't show anything. They list spare tips cheaply though.

As I say, I don't know which will work out better for you with the state of the £. You probably have an element14 entity in your country, certainly in the eurozone.

Edit: Just pointing this out as an option, I'm not suggesting that you change from the Proskit. I have no direct experience of the Duratool but I thought you might at least want to know that it was there.

[oxidized]

Oh, just noticed that CPC do the Duratool brand variant. I'll never understand, they're both Farnell companies  I'm not sure which would work out cheaper in your country - CPC is UK based....

http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD01384?MER=e-bb45-00001001

It gives less detail of what's included, just says conical tip and the picture doesn't show anything. They list spare tips cheaply though.

As I say, I don't know which will work out better for you with the state of the £. You probably have an element14 entity in your country, certainly in the eurozone.

Yes we have an element14, but i can't seem to find the duratool variant, only soldering station from duratool, let's see if there's something else.
Regarding the tips, i don't know, what i'd tho is different tips, not really same ones...well...that too maybe, i think that after 400/500 pins, a tip is rip, but i'd need bigger one too, let's see if i can find that too. Thanks again!

Update: So, our italian farnell, is only selling the one from proskit for ~94€ exc VAT, and they're also selling a set of 3 tips, which according to the datasheet are 1mm, 1,2mm and 1,5mm which is perfect

[Gyro]

Well that certainly ties in with the "Price rises in the UK" thread in the Buy/sell/wanted section. It's gone up to £96.75 + VAT here in the UK.  I'm glad I already have mine!

Glad it's worked out so well for you with price, tip sizes etc. 

[oxidized]

Well that certainly ties in with the "Price rises in the UK" thread in the Buy/sell/wanted section. It's gone up to £96.75 + VAT here in the UK.  I'm glad I already have mine!

Glad it's worked out so well for you with price, tip sizes etc. 

Yeah, i'm glad too

Anyway, i never understood why cheap desoldering station all use a "gun" style desolder stick, instead of the classic "pen"style like pace stations for example, isn't it easier to use and also easier to build than a gun shaped stick? (This is based on the fact the first desoldering station i ever used had a stick instead of a gun)

[Gyro]

Anyway, i never understood why cheap desoldering station all use a "gun" style desolder stick, instead of the classic "pen"style like pace stations for example, isn't it easier to use and also easier to build than a gun shaped stick? (This is based on the fact the first desoldering station i ever used had a stick instead of a gun)

It actually works best if you hold the board vertical and use the gun horizontally. Much less chance of clogging as the removed solder doesn't fall back down onto the rear of the element. As there is no solder to apply it can be a two handed operation. The gun shape makes a bit more sense then (although the trigger could do with a stronger return spring).

[oxidized]

Anyway, i never understood why cheap desoldering station all use a "gun" style desolder stick, instead of the classic "pen"style like pace stations for example, isn't it easier to use and also easier to build than a gun shaped stick? (This is based on the fact the first desoldering station i ever used had a stick instead of a gun)

It actually works best if you hold the board vertical and use the gun horizontally. Much less chance of clogging as the removed solder doesn't fall back down onto the rear of the element. As there is no solder to apply it can be a two handed operation. The gun shape makes a bit more sense then (although the trigger could do with a stronger return spring).

Makes sense, well i'll surely get used to it no problems then

[stj]

i should warn people, there are 2 versions of these.
one has a switching psu - as in the video.
the other has a linear transformer.
they look the same, it's just the internals are different.

i have a Duratool branded one here with the transformer.
it has 2 problems.
1: the transformer cant provide enough current to run the heater and pump together.
when you hold the pump on, it starts to pulse in rythm with the heater.

2: the pump is driven directly from the transformer via the socket, cable & trigger.
if you hold the pump on, the connector and cable warm up!!! 

i'm waiting for delivery of a solid-state relay to fix this bs.
i suspect that's what's in the cable-tied box in the back of daves - a relay of some type.

[oxidized]

i should warn people, there are 2 versions of these.
one has a switching psu - as in the video.
the other has a linear transformer.
they look the same, it's just the internals are different.

i have a Duratool branded one here with the transformer.
it has 2 problems.
1: the transformer cant provide enough current to run the heater and pump together.
when you hold the pump on, it starts to pulse in rythm with the heater.

2: the pump is driven directly from the transformer via the socket, cable & trigger.
if you hold the pump on, the connector and cable warm up!!! 

i'm waiting for delivery of a solid-state relay to fix this bs.
i suspect that's what's in the cable-tied box in the back of daves - a relay of some type.

Wow sounds like a very bad thing, anyone with the proskit can check that, please?
Thanks for posting and warning about that! 

[Gyro]

My Proskit has a SMPS, not linear transformer. 

[Gyro]

I'm waiting for delivery of a solid-state relay to fix this bs.
i suspect that's what's in the cable-tied box in the back of daves - a relay of some type.

The black plastic box at the back (screwed to the back in the Proskit) contains just a pair of PCB mounted ceramic power resistors. These are in series with the output of the SMPS feeding the fan and switching circuit. The box has one 2-pin input header at the top left corner and two parallel connected 2-pin output headers in the bottom right corner. The resistors are used to drop the voltage to the vacuum pump motor (and probably provide some stall current limiting). One of the bottom right gonnectors goes to the pump circuit and the other to the case cooling fan.

The output of the SMPS is a steady 18V approx (from memory). The (12V rated) cooling fan however sees as much as 12-18V variation depending whether the vacuum pump is running or not (due to the series resistors). This makes it wail a bit like a banshee as you use the gun.

The solution is easy. Unplug the three connectors from the plastic box . Unscrew it from the rear panel (2 screws), rotate it through 180' and put it back. This now leaves you with the two parallel connected headers at the top left corner and one at the bottom right. Plug the pump circuit connector back into the bottom right header and the SMPS back into either of the top left headers. All the headers are the same type and polarity.

Buy a cheap 50mm 24V 3d printer cooling fan from ebay (you should have done that earlier, shouldn't you  ) to replace the existing case fan. Plug this into the remaining header at the top left of the plastic box. It will now receive a steady 18v from the SMPS. This is the one I bought (50mm size), it plugged straight in...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Printer-24v-Cooling-Fan-25mm-30mm-40mm-50mm-60mm-Extruder-Fan-RepRap-/191458206299?var=&hash=item2c93cc625b:m:m6PyjIeUYOqwD28857uubWw

Enjoy your quieter desoldering station. 

[oxidized]

My Proskit has a SMPS, not linear transformer. 

sick!

I'm waiting for delivery of a solid-state relay to fix this bs.
i suspect that's what's in the cable-tied box in the back of daves - a relay of some type.

The black plastic box at the back (screwed to the back in the Proskit) contains just a pair of PCB mounted ceramic power resistors. These are in series with the output of the SMPS feeding the fan and switching circuit. The box has one 2-pin input header at the top left corner and two parallel connected 2-pin output headers in the bottom right corner. The resistors are used to drop the voltage to the vacuum pump motor (and probably provide some stall current limiting). One of the bottom right gonnectors goes to the pump circuit and the other to the case cooling fan.

The output of the SMPS is a steady 18V approx (from memory). The (12V rated) cooling fan however sees as much as 12-18V variation depending whether the vacuum pump is running or not (due to the series resistors). This makes it wail a bit like a banshee as you use the gun.

The solution is easy. Unplug the three connectors from the plastic box . Unscrew it from the rear panel (2 screws), rotate it through 180' and put it back. This now leaves you with the two parallel connected headers at the top left corner and one at the bottom right. Plug the pump circuit connector back into the bottom right header and the SMPS back into either of the top left headers. All the headers are the same type and polarity.

Buy a cheap 50mm 24V 3d printer cooling fan from ebay (you should have done that earlier, shouldn't you  ) to replace the existing case fan. Plug this into the remaining header at the top left of the plastic box. It will now receive a steady 18v from the SMPS. This is the one I bought (50mm size), it plugged straight in...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Printer-24v-Cooling-Fan-25mm-30mm-40mm-50mm-60mm-Extruder-Fan-RepRap-/191458206299?var=&hash=item2c93cc625b:m:m6PyjIeUYOqwD28857uubWw

Enjoy your quieter desoldering station. 

Sounds interesting, i'll save this, you never know i might need this in the future

[Gyro]

Just by happy coincedence, new user felix_GR posted internal photos of the black plastic resistor box yesterday:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/zd-915-desolder-gunstation/msg1052757/#msg1052757

[oxidized]

Just by happy coincedence, new user felix_GR posted internal photos of the black plastic resistor box yesterday:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/zd-915-desolder-gunstation/msg1052757/#msg1052757

This is the pro's kit one or?

edit: oh nevermind

[aronake]

Do anybody know specification or part of the specifications on the motor and vacuum pump? 12V? Watt? Lite per min? etc? There seem to be be some text on the picture with the motor but picture is too small to read it.

[wizard69]

Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum and i plan to stay as long as i can 
Now let's go to the point.

You kinda failed here.   The point is what is your use case?   This is the beginners forum so I have to assume you are new to electronics in some form.   You could be interested in repair or have hobby interests in a different direction.   In any event the point here is that buying a desoldering gun might not be your best move if you are starting out in electronics.   In otherwords to get to the point we need more info.
[/quote]
I'm looking for a decent desoldering iron or station around 200€ (better if under ofc), the hakko fr-300 looks good, but VAT included it ends up costing like ~290€, and i want to stay far below that.
Any idea?
[/quote]

I don't have a station at home and the one at work requires a compressed air supply and wasn't cheap   So honestly I can't offer good advice.   All I can say is that I would make sure I had access to a really good soldering station before worrying about a desoldering station.

By the way, If salvaging for hobby use is something you are thinking about, I've had really good success using a propane torch on the back side of boards with surface mount components I want.   The board may be useless afterwards but you can get the components to fall off as soon as the solder melts limiting thermal stress.   For through hole I just use a regular iron and solder sucker for hobby use.   If your goal is professional though, increase your budget and buy name brand with easy to get supplies in your area.   With soldering equipment after the sales support or spare parts if you will is a big factor in a purchase, you don't want to have to rely upon a supplier in China for this stuff.   Even if the iron is made in China buy from a local STOCKING distributor.   The reality is when you need something, a spare tip of filter for example, getting it overnight is on average worth the cost.

In my mind there is a huge difference between professional use and hobby use and this comes down to spare parts.   If you do something bone headed and damage a tip or whole heating element; waiting days for the replacement isn't a problem in a hobby related endeavor.   If this is a business you want next day or maybe even the ability to drive into town and get the item.