| Electronics > Beginners |
| Difficult breadboading a LM324N |
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| rstofer:
Why don't you use single or dual op amps (or even just one op amp in a 4 pack) so you can spread out your work? It makes troubleshooting a lot simpler. There's no good coming from trying to jam together all the parts for 4 op amps in a single package. After you get the thing working, get a solder type breadboard. Here's a solder type breadboard that exactly matches a solderless: https://www.jameco.com/z/SB300-Busboard-Prototype-Systems-SB300-Solderable-PC-Breadboard-1-Sided-PCB-Matches-300-Tie-Point-Breadboards_2125042.html There are others. |
| tggzzz:
--- Quote from: dcbrown73 on August 12, 2019, 03:48:34 pm --- --- Quote from: tggzzz on August 12, 2019, 07:51:28 am ---Agreed, but most people using a solderless breadboard wouldn't know that was beneficial. Plus if you are doing that, why not go straight to "decent" manhattan/deadbug/ratsnest techniques? --- End quote --- The only issue I have with manhattan / deadbug / ratsnest is I'm learning and am likely to need to move and change things often as I learn. If I'm actually soldering and desoldering to change everything. That can take 15-30 minutes of learning and turn it into hours. Not to mention, I'm probably sure to mangle a few components in the process. --- End quote --- You will mangle a few components anyway :) Soldering is fast and once it works it stays put. Debugging poor/intermittent connections, stray capacitance and inductance is slow. Sneeze and something will have moved, and you'll start again. Have one plain PCB as a groundplane. Chop up some bits of piain PCB into 5mm pieces. When you want to join two components, superglue one bit to your groundplane whereever happens to be convenient, and then solder your components to that. But if you enjoy debugging a connection where you've removed a 1mm diameter lead and inserted a 0.8mm lead, go ahead and use a solderless breadboard :) |
| KL27x:
I became familiar with the quadpack, first. It makes perfect sense to me. It's symmetrical in all directions, other than the ground and power pins. No matter if you use the left, right, top, or bottom, it goes the same. There's no way to have dyslexia. The pin on the end is the output, the next one is In-, then In+. It's the easiest and most sensible package to me. I have cut a quad pack in half before to make a smaller dual pack. Scored and snapped off half the opamp IC just to the side of the power and ground pins. There's no pulling down the unused inputs, anymore. :) Worked fine. I figure the die is a dot in the center of the chip, safe from harm from this procedure, and all I'm snapping are some teeny bond wires. |
| Kleinstein:
The breadboard is nice as one does not have to heat up the iron for changes. With decent quality and not trying to force in too large parts like TO220, the reliability is not that bad. There is some coupling capacitance, but slow parts like the LM324 are OK. A good source for bread board jumper wires is solid telephone wires (4 x 0.6 mm). Rats nests (air-wired balls, possibly over a ground plane) is also OK, but depending on the parts used there can also be cold solder joints and taking parts out can be a mess. If the iron is hot changes are fast, the bread board is faster. For larger circuit I still prefer the bread-board. However I would be careful with circuits that get damages if a connection is lost. |
| Zero999:
Yes, the inputs to the unused op-amps shouldn't be just left open circuit. As a general rule of thumb, the best thing to do is configure the unused sections as unity gain buffers and connect the input to a steady voltage, such as 0V. |
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