Difficulty soldering pin header to LCD

[SpareFag]

Hello,

I'm trying to use a 60W soldering iron to solder a pin header to a LCD, but I can't manage to melt the solder. When the solder is in direct contact with the soldering iron, it has no problem melting, but when I heat the pin and the "hole", then apply the solder without touching the iron, nothing melts, no matter how long I heat.

I followed many video tutorials, including Dave's, but maybe I'm missing something. Does the iron have to be in contact with the solder during the procedure?

[tooki]

Watch this video series, it’s hands down the best soldering tutorial I’ve ever found, and is well worth the time: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

In electronics soldering, we basically always operate at the very brink of the melting point. The idea is: “iron in, solder in, solder out, iron out” in that order, within 2 or 3 seconds for a typical joint. The timing takes practice. The videos above demonstrate it beautifully.

Assuming your iron is set to the right temperature, and you’re using a tip that’s appropriately sized for the job, my hunch is that your tip is too “dry”: you still want it to have a little tiny cushion of molten solder on it, which acts as a thermal bridge. Without that, it’s extremely hard to get good thermal conductivity to the joint.

[SpareFag]

I forgot to mention that I melt some solder onto the tip beforehand, and I follow the  “iron in, solder in, solder out, iron out” tempo, but still, the solder won't melt unless it's in direct contact with the iron, and even then, it sticks to the iron without covering the pinhole.

[MikeK]

As mentioned, a little bit of solder on the tip - as well as using flux - will help with heat transfer.  If what you're heating up has a lot of mass your iron may not be able to heat it up enough to melt solder...though unlikely if it's just a header and a pad.  Check for anything pulling heat out of your joint.

[MikeK]

A photo of your sitution may help.

[Ian.M]

+ a close up photo of your soldering iron bit (tip).  *MOST* hand soldering problems here seem to be due to bits without enough copper CSA to give a good thermal path to the working face, or in poor condition so the solder doesn't wet them to form a thermal bridge to the joint.

[jpanhalt]

The OP said it is a 60W iron.  My slightly larger 80W iron can be used for soldering tinned ducts with leaded solder.

I do agree a picture would help.  Although the iron may melt the solder,does its tip wet with the solder?