Electronics > Beginners

Driving LED strips from dedicated audio amplifier

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paulca:
I would agree.  Buy decent 12V supply (or supplies depending on how many LEDs  you are running!) and run the arduino off that 12V.  I believe, from memory, but do check the onboard regulator supports up to 20V.

12V will assume WS2811s which are not individually addressable.  Groups of 3 are addressable.  If you are running a whole wall length of 3-4 meters that will not be an issue.

I don't want to do the calculations right now, but you will be able to power 4 meters of 2812s off a single supply, but might need to power it at both ends.  Depends on the LED density though and thus total number of LEDs, of course.

MeanWell PSUs are popular and get good reviews.  Fairly cheap on Amazon, EBay or a bit more expensive at the likes of Farnell or RS.

paulca:
If you are really paranoid, you could always explore this route:

http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/Semiconductors/opto_53.php

But you still have to power it from somewhere.

james_s:
Beware that many of the cheap clone arduinos use a cheap clone voltage regulator, I fried a few of them powering them from a 12V battery before I figured out what's going on.

I wouldn't worry about 230V going into things though. Also you can AC couple the audio with a capacitor that will block excessive DC voltage, or use an analog optoisolator.

Etesla:
Here's a fun 'analog' circuit that will do it for you. All you need is an envelope detector, a ramp wave generator, a comparator, and some output stage stuff. If I used some model that doesn't come with LTSpice that prevents this from working, let me know.

FlyingMoose:
Looks like I’ll be working with high-voltage LED strips that have a power supply which is just a rectifier.

Will a solid-state relay work on rectified DC since it at least approaches 0 for each hump, or should I try to find one which can switch 240V DC?

I might also use a PWM-controlled light dimmer but I’m not sure if they respond fast enough for the desired effect. 

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