Electrolytic VS Film Power Supply Filter Capacitors!!!

[finom1]

Wallace Gasiewicz, thank you so very much for sharing your wisdom with me. This was a very clear explanation of the function of the resistor.

Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom with us. It's all very valuable information!!!

[David Aurora]

Parallel resistors on big filter caps are "Bleeder Resistors" meant to discharge the cap slowly when the unit is turned off.
They essentially discharge the cap to Ground.
Otherwise the capacitor remains charged and can shock you 
The bleeder resistors are usually very high value, megohms, and do not have to be high watt. Because they are such high value, they do not consume much power.   
The higher the ohms the slower the cap discharges.

They are also used for ensuring equal voltage division when caps are used in series, which you see a bunch in tube amps. The B+ is often pushing the voltage limits of readily available caps, so you'll see manufacturers do things like putting 2 x 220uF/350V caps in series where they really wanted a 100uF/500V+ cap for a 450V+ supply, then putting a couple high value resistors across them to try to make sure both caps see no more than half of B+ at all times.

[finom1]

David Aurora, thank you for the additional information. It all is valuable and helps to clarify everything.

Thanks again for sharing with us!!!

[ozkarah]

A good brief:

https://youtu.be/MAP-VA1m-A4

[finom1]

ozkarah, thank you so much. This was an amazing video. You nailed it.

Do you have a favorite manufacture for your capacitors, most people like F&T electrolytic can capacitors?

Thanks again for sharing with all of us!!!

[finom1]

This is a bit off-topic, but I want to share the very best that I have been learning!

I reached out again to Nick Lucas from https://www.hificollective.co.uk. Asking him about the other component upgrades for my amp, this was the email response from Nick:
"Hi
Mix it up a little, use some 2W Allen Bradleys and the 2W AMRGs in the circuit. The Bradleys will add a slight bit of warmth and colouration and the AMRG will give the detail.

Regards
Nick "

This along with his suggestions of using this particular brand of electrolytic capacitors. This is from another email Nick sent me:
"Hi
See
CAP-100-R-22U-500V: 22uF 500Vdc Audio Note Kaisei POLAR Electrolytic Capacitor
and
CAP-100-R-50U-500V: 50uF 500Vdc Audio Note Kaisei POLAR Electrolytic Capacitor

Regards, Nick"

Thanks everyone for all the great explanations and details that were shared here. This is an amazing place to have people sharing their wisdom with others and provides an historical record to be used as educational material and as a future points of reference! This was so much fun!!!

Thanks again for sharing!!!

[finom1]

This is off-topic, but it has value and I want to share what I have been learning. Listening to Bob Gjika talks about inrush current, I found a possible solution other than a Large Chock solution!

That would be Inrush Current Limiters & Sensing Thermistor Solutions from, https://www.ametherm.com/. A very interesting site with great tech support!
https://www.ametherm.com/inrush-current/
https://www.ametherm.com/datasheets/sl105r003

Thanks everyone for sharing. This site and the genius minds here have been so helpful!!!

[finom1]

Here is a response from R.G., I hope this valuable information helps all the people learning and sharing here on this amazing forum:
"Inrush current limiters? Try this:
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/m ... 0Clamp.pdf

The current clamp action stops all the current greater than its limit as set by the source resistor. This not only tames the inrush current at power-on time, but also prevents any pulse currents into filter caps under heavy loads. The side effect is removing any currents that could damage a tube rectifier if the first filter cap is bigger than the spec on the rectifier tube.

To a certain extent, it tames the AC-primary side inrush current too. The primary side no longer has to provide the big currents into the secondaries for power on."

Big thanks to everyone sharing their wisdom here!!!

[Zero999]

I've never heard of Kaisei capacitors. I Googled and found this website.
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/audio-note-kaisei-electrolytic-capacitors.html

My guess is they're probably good, but overpriced as they're aimed at the Hi-Fi community, who many people here call audiophools because they spend excessive amounts on things which don't make any real difference to the sound. To be fair, a phycology plays a part. If someone buys an expensive capacitor and fits it in their amplifier, it'll sound better to them, because they think it's better.

I would just stick to ordinary known good bands such as Panasonic, Rubicon, Cornell-Dubilier, Nichicon, Kemet etc. Generally if they're available from a known distributor such as RS Components, Farnell, Digi-Key, Mouser etc. and aren't the cheapest, they'll be decent.

[ArdWar]

I've never heard of Kaisei capacitors.

Won't be surprised if it's just resleeved Rubycon NXK...

[finom1]

 Zero999, very good points that you made. It’s fun leaning something new, but then reality sets in. That keeps us all grounded. Thank you for your suggestions.

Thank you for sharing!!!

[David Aurora]

This is a bit off-topic, but I want to share the very best that I have been learning!

I reached out again to Nick Lucas from https://www.hificollective.co.uk. Asking him about the other component upgrades for my amp, this was the email response from Nick:
"Hi
Mix it up a little, use some 2W Allen Bradleys and the 2W AMRGs in the circuit. The Bradleys will add a slight bit of warmth and colouration and the AMRG will give the detail.

Regards
Nick "

This along with his suggestions of using this particular brand of electrolytic capacitors. This is from another email Nick sent me:
"Hi
See
CAP-100-R-22U-500V: 22uF 500Vdc Audio Note Kaisei POLAR Electrolytic Capacitor
and
CAP-100-R-50U-500V: 50uF 500Vdc Audio Note Kaisei POLAR Electrolytic Capacitor

Regards, Nick"

Thanks everyone for all the great explanations and details that were shared here. This is an amazing place to have people sharing their wisdom with others and provides an historical record to be used as educational material and as a future points of reference! This was so much fun!!!

Thanks again for sharing!!!

I've got some magic beans I can sell you if you really want to take your tone to the next level?

[gbaddeley]

AudioNote caps are probably overpriced, even compared to premium brands like Nichicon, Nippon Chemicon, Panasonic, Elna.

I use 1 watt rated bleeder resistors, and choose resistance value that will dissipate about 1/2 watt at the working  voltage. R = V * V / P

[finom1]

gbaddeley, thank you so much for bringing more clarity on how to calculate the size of the Bleeder Resistor. This has been a great leaning experience. All valuable points. Thank you for mentioning like other the capacitor manufactures that you use.

Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us and bringing carity!!!

[squibby]

If you can tell the difference between a fully functional electrolytic and a fully functional equivalent Film cap, I'd be immensely impressed by your ear drums.

If you can hear a difference between that Audio-note for $50 and a Panasonic or Nichicon for $5 I'd be equally amazed.

Sure the more expensive, the longer they may last. But I see 50 years old electros in good condition occasionally, so a modern Panasonic electro wouldn't you at least expect 10 or twenty years or more?