Equip your electronics bench- Help!!!

[ez24]

Thank you for your advice. We are just starting out. Is it possible to find a Tested & Calibrated scope shipped under $200?

Thanks again!

I think you don't know what "calibrated" means.
"Our prices for Oscilloscope calibration service range from:
$80.00 to $695.00"
https://www.custom-cal.com/TypeInfo.aspx?kn=147&srv=Oscilloscope_Calibration_Repair
If you send an oscilloscope to be calibrated, you probably pay more than §200 only for calibration.

This instrument has been performance calibrated and adjusted by an accredited electronic technician

.

I assume "performance calibrated" is hooking up the probe to the calibrator (below the screen) and adjusting the red dial to match the output.  The OP needs to understand this and a real "calibrated" scope is going to cost more than a new Rigol DZ1054

The only thing I would expect from this seller is it works and the switches are not dirty.  In my experience most do not, that is why this scope will sell for big $$ (FYI I am not bidding any more on it).

[finom1]

Thank you for your advice. We are just starting out. Is it possible to find a Tested & Calibrated scope shipped under $200?

Thanks again!

I think you don't know what "calibrated" means.
"Our prices for Oscilloscope calibration service range from:
$80.00 to $695.00"
https://www.custom-cal.com/TypeInfo.aspx?kn=147&srv=Oscilloscope_Calibration_Repair
If you send an oscilloscope to be calibrated, you probably pay more than §200 only for calibration.

This instrument has been performance calibrated and adjusted by an accredited electronic technician

.

I assume "performance calibrated" is hooking up the probe to the calibrator (below the screen) and adjusting the red dial to match the output.  The OP needs to understand this and a real "calibrated" scope is going to cost more than a new Rigol DZ1054

The only thing I would expect from this seller is it works and the switches are not dirty.  In my experience most do not, that is why this scope will sell for big $$ (FYI I am not bidding any more on it).

Thanks for your help!

[ez24]

Thanks for your help!

A long shot.  There is this section

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/

Try and place an ad - like

WTB [US] - An oscilloscope under $200

and see what happens

[finom1]

Someone mentioned a great item to have on a test bench a, " Current Limiter - Dim Bulb Tester ".  That was another great idea!

Here is a great video, please watch it, if anyone would add anything or wire it differently please provide your ideas to make it better!

A Viewer's Dim Bulb Tester Project  - 

Thanks

[oldway]

This project is totally stupid because: 
- Why a 5A fuse? the light bulb limits the current and the 5A fuse will never blow.
- Why an ammeter? the illumination of the light bulb gives a sufficient idea of the current
- Why a switch? totally useless
- Why a power meter? Useless, it's crazy to waste money for nothing.
- Why an output voltmeter? Useless.
This can be very simple: insert a 100W light bulb in the fase wire, that's all.... 
I use it often for testing SMPS I just repaired. 

Also, if you have a variac with 2A bipolar circuit breaker to protect output (plus eventually an ammeter), it do the job far better and this project is totally useless for tube audio amplifiers.

[finom1]

This project is totally stupid because: 
- Why a 5A fuse? the light bulb limits the current and the 5A fuse will never blow.
- Why an ammeter? the illumination of the light bulb gives a sufficient idea of the current
- Why a switch? totally useless
- Why a power meter? Useless, it's crazy to waste money for nothing.
- Why an output voltmeter? Useless.
This can be very simple: insert a 100W light bulb in the fase wire, that's all.... 
I use it often for testing SMPS I just repaired. 

Also, if you have a variac with 2A bipolar circuit breaker to protect output (plus eventually an ammeter), it do the job far better and this project is totally useless for tube audio amplifiers.

That sounds great. I will take your advice!

Would this meter be an asset on a work bench?

P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468639289&sr=8-2&keywords=P3+International+Kill+A+Watt+Electricity+Usage+Monitor

Thanks.

[oldway]

...
Would this meter be an asset on a work bench?

P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor
...

Do you want to measure or calculate efficiency of guitar tube amplifiers ?
Better not to do this because efficiency is so low that you will eventually stop with your hobby. 
For this reason, I answer: for your application, not.

[finom1]

...
Would this meter be an asset on a work bench?

P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor
...

Do you want to measure or calculate efficiency of guitar tube amplifiers ?
Better not to do this because efficiency is so low that you will eventually stop with your hobby. 
For this reason, I answer: for your application, not.

Efficiency was not the main goal. The main goal is to increase the dynamics, gain & volume. To maximize the full potential of the Vacuum Tube Amp, with the least loss of signal. We don't want to color the tone with complex tone stacks. We are looking for a very organic, open sounding dynamic guitar amp project. We want each project to have it's own voice and not turned into what someone thinks is the ideal circuit!

Thank you for all your great guidance & coaching. It has been a real pleasure for our family to read your advice.

Thanks again and we look forward to what you have to say.

[ez24]

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468639289&sr=8-2&keywords=P3+International+Kill+A+Watt+Electricity+Usage+Monitor

Why not?  It is cheap enough and it is fun to have around.  You can use it on your refer, coffee maker, TV, etc.  just for kicks.  Show your kids how much power things use.

[finom1]

The Variac and dim bulb tester can be used for current limiting (among other uses) but are unique in how they operate in different situations, many people have both on hand for that reason. Besides that a functional dim bulb tester is cheap to throw together out of parts.

This is the Variac we purchased; Variac Variable AC Power Transformer 0-130 VAC with Meter (TDGC-1KM) Max.10 A - http://www.ebay.com/itm/121605198781

Now we need to build the Dim Bulb Tester.

Thank you.

[tautech]

The Variac and dim bulb tester can be used for current limiting (among other uses) but are unique in how they operate in different situations, many people have both on hand for that reason. Besides that a functional dim bulb tester is cheap to throw together out of parts.

This is the Variac we purchased; Variac Variable AC Power Transformer 0-130 VAC with Meter (TDGC-1KM) Max.10 A - http://www.ebay.com/itm/121605198781

Now we need to build the Dim Bulb Tester.

Thank you.

Here's my knocked together version:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/suggested-for-a-sticky-part-one-comments-or-additions-please/msg470686/#msg470686

Some discussion on typical usage:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tektronix-465b-won't-turn-on/msg563464/#msg563464

[ez24]

Thanks again and we look forward to what you have to say.

I want to thank you.  You asked about a scope and I was going to say check CL.  But I thought I should check CL just to see what was there.  And guess what - there was a pristine Tek 465B for sale and I got it.  Looks like it just came out of a box, no scratches, marks, or scuffs.  The seller says it has less than 10 hours on it.  And it came with Tek probes (and a current probe ?) and a manual.   :-

Edit:  And an audio cassette tape on how to operate the scope+

[bitseeker]

Wow, nice score, ez.

[finom1]

The Variac and dim bulb tester can be used for current limiting (among other uses) but are unique in how they operate in different situations, many people have both on hand for that reason. Besides that a functional dim bulb tester is cheap to throw together out of parts.

This is the Variac we purchased; Variac Variable AC Power Transformer 0-130 VAC with Meter (TDGC-1KM) Max.10 A - http://www.ebay.com/itm/121605198781

Now we need to build the Dim Bulb Tester.

Thank you.

Here's my knocked together version:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/suggested-for-a-sticky-part-one-comments-or-additions-please/msg470686/#msg470686

Some discussion on typical usage:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tektronix-465b-won't-turn-on/msg563464/#msg563464

I have now gained allot of incite into what it takes to be effective in the area of our hobby. I personally love the look of old school vintage test equipment, and at the same time I understand the benefits of modern equipment.

I am very good friends with two boutique custom amplifier builders who also repair any type of electronic musical equipment. Both rarely us an oscilloscope to build or repair on a daily basses. They always say their senses are first, along with a dim bulb tester, chop stick, signal tracer, multi-meter, cap & transistor tester and the use of jumper wires to isolate a problems has been the most effective way to run their business.

So I now realize it's not about what I like, but what equipment & methods to utilize to achieve our goals in a cost effective way. The saving will go towards new purchases of vintage radios, TV's, & organs for project material to convert into guitar amplifiers.

Here are just two youtube channels that maximize there dollars;
1. The Guitologist - https://www.youtube.com/user/electrictoothsyndrom/videos
2. Uncle Doug - https://www.youtube.com/user/Stratosaurus1/videos

Thanks for sharing your wisdom!

[oldway]

I see that you begin to understand that we should not have sophisticated measuring instruments for doing good work in the project, construction and repair of tube guitar amplifiers.

At the time I was making guitar amplifiers of my own projects (my favorite tubes were EF86 as preamp, ECC83 for baxendale tone control, ECC82 as phase shifter  and EL34 as push-pull output - rectifiers: I used BY100 silicon diodes), I had at my disposal that:

- A low frequency generator (sine + square wave)
NB: square wave is very useful to verify the stability of the amplifier.
- A model 8 Avometer
- A high impedance meter Hansen UV47
- An oscilloscope 5 Mhz Heathkit IO-12E
- An adjustable high voltage power supply (self-made)
- A variac
- A load resistance 8R 50W (self made).

I had not tube tester because it was unnecessary, we had commitment to quality tubes, they where not tested, I simply replaced them.

No need of distortion meter, the polarization of the final stage was ajusted for minimal anode quiescent current with no visible crossover distortion on the oscilloscope.

To repair and modification of old tube amplifiers, you need more of a capacitor tester (at the time, it was useless, capacitors were new)

A signal tracer can also be very useful.

And above of all, you must have a lot of knowledge, documentation and experience in the field.

[ez24]

cap .. tester

For those in the know - for this type of work (vintage repair) which of the following would be the most useful:

DE-5000

or an old evil eye tester  ?

Seems to me they both are (were) at the top of their game at the time of their sales

[finom1]

I see that you begin to understand that we should not have sophisticated measuring instruments for doing good work in the project, construction and repair of tube guitar amplifiers.

At the time I was making guitar amplifiers of my own projects (my favorite tubes were EF86 as preamp, ECC83 for baxendale tone control, ECC82 as phase shifter  and EL34 as push-pull output - rectifiers: I used BY100 silicon diodes), I had at my disposal that:

- A low frequency generator (sine + square wave)
NB: square wave is very useful to verify the stability of the amplifier.
- A model 8 Avometer
- A high impedance meter Hansen UV47
- An oscilloscope 5 Mhz Heathkit IO-12E
- An adjustable high voltage power supply (self-made)
- A variac
- A load resistance 8R 50W (self made).

I had not tube tester because it was unnecessary, we had commitment to quality tubes, they where not tested, I simply replaced them.

No need of distortion meter, the polarization of the final stage was ajusted for minimal anode quiescent current with no visible crossover distortion on the oscilloscope.

To repair and modification of old tube amplifiers, you need more of a capacitor tester (at the time, it was useless, capacitors were new)

A signal tracer can also be very useful.

And above of all, you must have a lot of knowledge, documentation and experience in the field.

You finally got this old dog on the right path!!!

Thank you!!!

[oldway]

cap .. tester

For those in the know - for this type of work (vintage repair) which of the following would be the most useful:

DE-5000

or an old evil eye tester  ?

Seems to me they both are (were) at the top of their game at the time of their sales

An old evel eye tester because greatest concern with high impedance tubes circuit is leakage.
Capacitors have to be tested for leakage at working voltage (up to 250V).

NB: you need also a knockout hole punch set if you want to add tube sockets.

[finom1]

cap .. tester

For those in the know - for this type of work (vintage repair) which of the following would be the most useful:

DE-5000

or an old evil eye tester  ?

Seems to me they both are (were) at the top of their game at the time of their sales

An old evel eye tester because greatest concern with high impedance tubes circuit is leakage.
Capacitors have to be tested for leakage at working voltage (up to 250V).

NB: you need also a knockout hole punch set if you want to add tube sockets.

You are so smart. This is the brand we used at Westinghouse; http://www.greenlee.com/catalog/Knockout-Sets/KNOCKOUTS?ps=1000

Thank you for all your kindness share your wisdom with us. This is a great start to our learning about electronics while have fun with our new hobby!

[finom1]

I need help buying a new Soldering Station.

In the old days over 25 years ago, we used $1,000+  soldering stations from Weller & Metcal for defense and NASA work, One Touch Soldering technique had to be followed.

I need a soldering stating that will quickly transfer & maintain temperature while de-soldering old solder connections. I do not want to damage components, especially Germanium Transistors when we start building vintage effects pedals for guitar.

Once the tip has been properly prepped  for soldering, which manufacture will give me the best heat transfer?

Some videos;




Thank you for any help!

[Shock]

Hakko FX888D has a good tip range (T18 series) and is probably the go to bang for buck station in the US, if you are doing point to point type soldering or high thermal mass such as potentiometer grounds you could use a tip such as the T18 S3 and this will throw out a ton of heat. Other tips though will work just as well.
https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_t18.html

The tips are already tinned you can start using them straight away.

[finom1]

Hakko FX888D has a good tip range (T18 series) and is probably the go to bang for buck station in the US, if you are doing point to point type soldering or high thermal mass such as potentiometer grounds you could use a tip such as the T18 S3 and this will throw out a ton of heat. Other tips though will work just as well.
https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_t18.html

The tips are already tinned you can start using them straight away.

Good advice, thank you for sharing!!!

[nanofrog]

I need help buying a new Soldering Station.

How much performance do you need?

I ask, as the Hakko FX-888D is a nice entry level station, but it's not the greatest performer. Meaning it can tackle 1 or 2 layer boards, and some 4 layer boards (assuming not on heavy ground pours on 4 layer). If you hit the latter case or mechanical solder tabs and so on, it will struggle/exceed recommended dwell time, or flat out be unable to make the joint.

So if you need more performance than the FX-888D, or want to do things faster, you'd be better off with the FX-951 instead. It uses cartridge type tips, but common profiles aren't expensive (i.e. $10.47 per). And due to TEquipment's prices & the discount they offer EEVBlog members (I'll PM it to you), it comes in ~$230 shipped (Hakko does not include any tips). The tip selection is also quite extensive, and the plating is one of the thickest, if not the thickest out there giving you a very long service life (i.e. 10 years on lead based alloys is common with basic tip care). Tip changes are easy too.

The following may be of some help... 

[oldway]

I do not understand why you need a new soldering station to work with repair and modification of tube guitar amplifiers.
It has nothing to do with defense or NASA solder specifications and requirements.

I had an ERSA 30W (with ersadur tip) for most of the solders and a big 300W soldering iron for chassis soldering.
Both were very cheap.
No need to spend hundreds of dollars for soldering.

If you really want a soldering station, there is the indestructible TCP-s WELLER I particularly recommend.
But you will need in any case another soldering iron of 200 or 300W for chassis soldering.

To solder germanium diode or transistor, use a clamp or an alligator clip as thermal path to reduce risk of overheating of the semi-conductor and let them with long wire, don't cut the wire.

[finom1]

I do not understand why you need a new soldering station to work with repair and modification of tube guitar amplifiers.
It has nothing to do with defense or NASA solder specifications and requirements.

I had an ERSA 30W (with ersadur tip) for most of the solders and a big 300W soldering iron for chassis soldering.
Both were very cheap.
No need to spend hundreds of dollars for soldering.

If you really want a soldering station, there is the indestructible TCP-s WELLER I particularly recommend.
But you will need in any case another soldering iron of 200 or 300W for chassis soldering.

To solder germanium diode or transistor, use a clamp or an alligator clip as thermal path to reduce risk of overheating of the semi-conductor and let them with long wire, don't cut the wire.

Always great advice!!! Thank you!