First multimeter

[Matthew K]

I have watched all of Dave's reviews/shootouts and have done searches on multimeters and and still don't know what I should do. Should I save up and buy a Fluke 87V and avoid all the headaches associated with the Chinese multimeters or buy a cheaper one to start with?

If I were to buy a cheaper one, would the BK Precision 2709B be a good choice? Let me know what the best first beginner meter is right now. It seems like opinions change all the time.

[Wytnucls]

Opinions will change depending on your home country and budget.

[Wytnucls]

2709B is fine if you don't need a bar graph and temperature measurements.
At around $100.00, there is also the Amprobe AM570.

[Sigmoid]

My first "real" multimeter was a 2709b. I still have it, still use it as my second meter. It's a really well-built meter, pretty accurate, overall it's a device I can trust. (Later I got an 87V, for teh cheapz, "Like New" on Amazon...)

The only difference in capabilities that I found to affect my work was that the BK doesn't have a peak hold circuit, while the Fluke does. Otherwise, for all intents and purposes, I could reach for either and get pretty much the same productivity out of it.

The Fluke is a pretty awesome meter, but the 2709b is a perfectly okay one. Feel free to go with it.

[Strega]

I'm in the same boat and started a thread a few days ago.
After much back and forth I decided upon this...

Brymen BM257s

[Lightages]

Yes, BK 2709B, good choice. If you want spend less, then a Uni-T UT139C at $50 (shipped to your door) would be a good bet too.

Where do you live and what is your price range?

[Matthew K]

Yes, BK 2709B, good choice. If you want spend less, then a Uni-T UT139C at $50 (shipped to your door) would be a good bet too.

Where do you live and what is your price range?

I live in Houston, TX. I don't have a specific price range. The Fluke 87V is just one heck of a meter. It's definitely worth every cent from what I hear. I just threw away a very cheap analog meter that somehow found it's way into my hands that never really worked at all. I'm glad I did too. I took it apart and the inside easily wins most unsafe meter of all time.

Probably sounds like I'm beating a dead horse but I'm just torn between investing in a good, proven meter or just getting an inexpensive one to start with. My last hobby I invested a good bit, probably too much, but it turned out that it just wasn't mean't to be. Way too many hidden costs that I never knew about until I really got into it. I don't want to make that same mistake again.

[Lightages]

A multimeter is a useful tool regardless of the hobby you choose to do. If you aren't sure you are going to continue with electronics in the future, it would seem better not to jump to a $400 meter right away. You can get perfectly useful meters for $50, $100 and below $150. The BK 2709B is probably more than you will need as a beginner but will serve you well as you learn and need more. The Uni-T UT139C at $50, or an Amprobe AM-510, is all most people will ever need. I said "NEED" for a reason. Some people think they need more accuracy, but for most people it is more than accurate enough. If you want to step up, then the BK as you have seen, an Amprobe  AM530 or AM570, or Brymen BM257s or BM829s or BM857s, or Amprobe AM-270, or Agilent U1242B, or even the Fluke 87V. It depends on what you want to spend.

My advice for you, the Uni-T UT139C or Amprobe AM-510 or 530 is what I would recommend. Until you learn more and know you need more, they are great meters for most hobbyists and should serve you for a long time into your hobby. They are not money wasted if you want a better meter as they will be good when you need two meters at once, and you will at some time.

[deadlylover]

My first was a 2709B too, thanks eevblog...

I would say that as a beginner, go for a couple of cheap(er) multimeters instead of one high-end model, you'll find yourself needing to measure voltage and current at the same time sooner or later. You might not need a second meter straight away depending on your intended usage, and it doesn't necessarily have to be of the same quality as your main meter. Just something to keep in mind.

More importantly though, it frees up funds for other gear that you might need. It's not like you're going to throw the other meters away if/when you get the 87V or another better meter down the line, they will still be useful.

I've had the 2709B for 4 years now, and I still use it regularly even though I have acquired much more accurate meters since then....  Sure, it's no 87V but it's still a quality meter.

Hmm if I were to start over again, I might seriously consider the BM257s linked above.

[dadler]

I vote Brymen BM257s.

I have Agilent and Keithley bench meters, a Fluke 287, a Brymen BM869s, and several other smaller meters--and I seem to use the BM257s the most often.

I love the size/form factor, has a great continuity tester, comes with nice leads, accurate, lots of features. 

[Kappes Buur]

It all depends on what you want to measure.

If it is just DC of some circuits you want to build/test, then one of those http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/products.asp?dept=1101 would do the trick.

Once you establish that you are sticking with electronics, then go for the fancier meters with higher resolution, more features and  protection for AC and higher price tag.

[Fat]

I just picked up a Greenlee DM820A for $89 on ebay, they are a Brymen meter and it's all I'll ever need.  Had a Fluke before, but it got stolen.  Check around on ebay, for some reason this seller had 20 of them.

Fat

[miguelvp]

Based on joeqsmith amazing tests he is currently conducting

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/
(feel free to skip to the end of page 10 to look at the finalists)

The Amprobe AM-510 looks like a nice robust and safe DMM specially for the price.

[Lightages]

Yes, the Amprobe did not fail. But it is not clear if a multimeter needs to survive the pulse test. It must not do anything that could harm the user, that is clear. None of the meters in his test did anything that could harm the user from what I have seen so far.

I agree that the Amprobe AM-510 looks like a winner as does all of the models in that range. Actually Amprobe seems to sell many different models that could be recommended.

I would still recommend the UT139C, but I am just about to watch the video of it failing his tests.

Just remember that the tests that joeqsmith did are not full IEC mandated tests and do not show the true rating of the meter. He says so himself. I also understand that the failure of a meter does not imply that it does not meet its CAT rating.

[oldway]

Why not buy an used  Fluke 23 series II or an used Fluke 75, 77 series II or III in good shape ?
They are very cheap on ebay.

[Lightages]

Yes of course used is an option, but not everyone wants to buy used nor take the chance that they will have problems and no warranty.

[oldway]

With these Fluke's, you don't need warranty, they are rocksolid...
If they are in "working conditions", you will not have problems with them...
I have an old 73 I bought used in 93 and I am still using it.
I have also a Fluke 23 series II I also bought used and it works very well.

These multimeters are more than enough for a beginner and they are safe.

NB: I would not recomand the Fluke 73 first series because the 10A input current is unfused.

[Lightages]

I agree oldway, used Fluke meters that are in working condition are generally good buys. Are they all? No. Some sellers don't know they are not in fully working condition, don't have fuses, have fuses of the wrong type, etc. There are actually threads here of people getting Fluke meters from ebay that needed much attention and repair. This is why some people will not take the chance. This is not a reflection on Fluke, but rather a reflection on the nature of the used market.

[oldway]

This is why some people will not take the chance.

This is why these excellent multimeters are so cheap...only 30 or 40 bucks...

[Flump]

2 multimeters are better than 1 so buy a cheaper one like the bryman or uni-t
to begin with then when you need a better one go for the fluke,
having 2 multimeters is often a necessity .

[Sigmoid]

or uni-t

http://www.eevblog.com/2015/02/07/eevblog-712-uni-t-ut71e-multimeter-why-uni-t-meters-suck/

[eas]

I got a Uni-T UT139C for my first DMM. Its been great. I decided I wanted a second meter and bought an old Fluke 8800A. Nice, but I kind of wished I'd skipped over it. My next meter was a used Keithley 2000, as was the one after that, and the one after that. Then I got a great deal on a Keithley 2700, and kicked myself for not buying another one from the same seller before they sold out. Then the seller listed one again (I think someone didn't pay after winning an auction), so I bought it. I don't regret any of the Keithleys. At least not yet, and I won't, provided I unload three of them this summer for enough to cover my costs.

As for why I got the Keithleys in the first place. I wanted to do precise tracking of some batteries I'm testing, and The K2000 series combines the precision I wanted with an optional multiplexer/switching card so I can track multiple channels.

I definitely like having two multimeters though, and so even if you have no need for a nice used bench meter, I'd suggest planning on getting a second handheld DMM before too long.

Oh, you mentioned your previous hobby had hidden costs... be very careful not to feed any latent fascination with precision electronic measurements. If you get your first >=6.5 digit DMM, it won't be long before you are after a second, and seeking out calibration standards, and eyeing 7.5, or even 8.5 digit DMMs not to mention nanovoltmeters, and picoammeters, and electrometers, and...

[Matthew K]

I got a Uni-T UT139C for my first DMM. Its been great. I decided I wanted a second meter and bought an old Fluke 8800A. Nice, but I kind of wished I'd skipped over it. My next meter was a used Keithley 2000, as was the one after that, and the one after that. Then I got a great deal on a Keithley 2700, and kicked myself for not buying another one from the same seller before they sold out. Then the seller listed one again (I think someone didn't pay after winning an auction), so I bought it. I don't regret any of the Keithleys. At least not yet, and I won't, provided I unload three of them this summer for enough to cover my costs.

As for why I got the Keithleys in the first place. I wanted to do precise tracking of some batteries I'm testing, and The K2000 series combines the precision I wanted with an optional multiplexer/switching card so I can track multiple channels.

I definitely like having two multimeters though, and so even if you have no need for a nice used bench meter, I'd suggest planning on getting a second handheld DMM before too long.

Oh, you mentioned your previous hobby had hidden costs... be very careful not to feed any latent fascination with precision electronic measurements. If you get your first >=6.5 digit DMM, it won't be long before you are after a second, and seeking out calibration standards, and eyeing 7.5, or even 8.5 digit DMMs not to mention nanovoltmeters, and picoammeters, and electrometers, and...

Haha yeah. I was into rc multicopters for awhile until I wanted to start flying FPV. Things started to add up and I got bored with it because it was too expensive to repair things after crashes and thus caused me to fly less etc. I still like the electronics part of it though so I'm gonna try to focus on that a bit more. I have several projects in mind...

I might just go with a UNI-T to start off with. I know it won't be long before I am wanting the Fluke...

[Lightages]

Not just any Uni-T please. The better bet is the UT139C. Or get the Amprobe AM-510.

[Matthew K]

Not just any Uni-T please. The better bet is the UT139C. Or get the Amprobe AM-510.

Why the UT139C as opposed to a UT61E?

[Muxr]

Not just any Uni-T please. The better bet is the UT139C. Or get the Amprobe AM-510.

Why the UT139C as opposed to a UT61E?

Uni-T has a lot of variance between their meters. But UT139C is generally considered safer and better built. UT61E is not too far behind though.

I actually picked up a UT61E while back just as a cheap data logger. Also I second Lightages's AM-510 recommendation.

[Deathwish]

I have a Claus Ohlson UT61E , thing takes forever to read resistances.

[Muxr]

Just compared my UT-61E to a Fluke 87V, measuring a 100ohm resistor. Don't notice a big difference. Fluke seems to get a faster reading, but 61E seems to autorange quicker. But I wouldn't say it's on the slow side, not sure if it's the revision thing.

[TMM]

UT61E is nice for it's resolution, but not a great primary meter. It's slow as a wet week, continuity mode is useless, etc. A UT139C is much more useful as a primary meter albeit with less resolution/accuracy. BM257 is even nicer again if the budget allows.

What makes the 87V such a nice meter imo is not the resolution, accuracy, safety or robustness, it's just that it's a very responsive meter and is mostly free of silly operation quirks that most cheapo meters have. Everything "just works". The 139C and the BM257 do a lot of things right which would make them a nice meter to use on a day to day basis even if they can't live up to the resolution, accuracy of an 87V. Other meters like the 61E or that BK precision one would drive me up the wall if i used them day to day because they have stupid quirks that you can't get rid of.

With these Fluke's, you don't need warranty, they are rocksolid...
If they are in "working conditions", you will not have problems with them...

Truth, but more than once someone has been burnt by buying a "powers on seems to work fine" one from ebay and it has arrived out of spec from being overloaded. If you have have another meter to compare to (even a cheap Uni-T) then it is worth a gamble buying a used Fluke and comparing them, if it seems in spec it probably is. Buying a second hand Fluke as a first meter without having some way to test it is not something i'd recommend.

[timofonic]

UT61E is nice for it's resolution, but not a great primary meter. It's slow as a wet week, continuity mode is useless, etc. A UT139C is much more useful as a primary meter albeit with less resolution/accuracy. BM257 is even nicer again if the budget allows.

What makes the 87V such a nice meter imo is not the resolution, accuracy, safety or robustness, it's just that it's a very responsive meter and is mostly free of silly operation quirks that most cheapo meters have. Everything "just works". The 139C and the BM257 do a lot of things right which would make them a nice meter to use on a day to day basis even if they can't live up to the resolution, accuracy of an 87V. Other meters like the 61E or that BK precision one would drive me up the wall if i used them day to day because they have stupid quirks that you can't get rid of.

With these Fluke's, you don't need warranty, they are rocksolid...
If they are in "working conditions", you will not have problems with them...

Truth, but more than once someone has been burnt by buying a "powers on seems to work fine" one from ebay and it has arrived out of spec from being overloaded. If you have have another meter to compare to (even a cheap Uni-T) then it is worth a gamble buying a used Fluke and comparing them, if it seems in spec it probably is. Buying a second hand Fluke as a first meter without having some way to test it is not something i'd recommend.

Just do some social engineering and use a lab/workshop from your local university

[John Coloccia]

Fluke 87 or BK2709B would be my two top choices.  Someone mentioned "funny quirks" with the 2709B.  Like what?  I've used them and like them specifically because they're very speedy, have a great continuity check, and no bad habits. I can tell you that I have an Extech something or other here.  It has a crap continuity test, and is slow as molasses.  Very unpleasant to use as anything but a second meter for occasional measurements.

[Deathwish]

I'm not a fluke fan boy, I tend to go for the cheapest one with the ability to do what I want at the time of purchase, but my favourite meter was the Fluke 77 I had many many years back, never let me down.

[Sigmoid]

Fluke 87 or BK2709B would be my two top choices.  Someone mentioned "funny quirks" with the 2709B.  Like what?  I've used them and like them specifically because they're very speedy, have a great continuity check, and no bad habits. I can tell you that I have an Extech something or other here.  It has a crap continuity test, and is slow as molasses.  Very unpleasant to use as anything but a second meter for occasional measurements.

Yea, I found no funny quirks in the 2709b. Maybe the battery was failing when the "quirks" manifested?

And before anyone buys a Uni-T, watch Dave's teardown video I linked above. After watching that, I wouldn't touch one with a ten foot pole. Also, they generally go for around $50, while the 2709b goes for $80.

That sure is worth some MOVs and general build quality, right? Even if you THINK that "oh I'll never measure high voltage", a multimeter is something you buy for 10 years, or 20. You'll probably do some home remodeling, and need to measure mains... Or decide to build a tesla coil for fun. Or a solar panel setup on your roof.

Go with a "real" meter. The 2709b is most certainly one.

[Muxr]

I have a UT-61E and a bunch of Flukes. UT-61E comes with an rs232 adapter via IR port on the back for connecting it to a computer, which can be real handy for data logging. It's why I got it, since it's something I use rarely and for $50 it's about the cheapest solution out there.

I am not going to hate too much on it. It's a cheap meter. It has some redeeming qualities, it's fairly small so it doesn't take much room and it's conservative on the battery consumption. It can certainly do the job, but I echo what others have said. Get a proper safe meter. More importantly you should have at least 2 meters, ideally 3. Since you want to measure multiple things at the same time, and you want to be able to double check their results if for whatever reason one of them goes out of cal or it breaks.

Great deals can be had on Fluke 2nd hand meters on Ebay. 83Vs are excellent meters and can be picked up under $100. Even 87Vs can go under $200 you just have to be patient. I happen to really like Fluke meters, because they are top quality and their UI is my favourite. But you can also go with a new meter from other decent brands.

- Brymen, Amprobe, BK Precision, Agilent/Keysight.. are some that you can also go with.

A decent DMM will outlive your every other tool pretty much, and DMMs don't really become outdated like other gear. A 30-40 year old 8060 Fluke is still a very capable meter for instance. So spending extra few bucks on quality goes a long way.

For the absolute cheapest decent meter, Amprobe AM-510 is pretty good.

[timofonic]

Fluke 87 or BK2709B would be my two top choices.  Someone mentioned "funny quirks" with the 2709B.  Like what?  I've used them and like them specifically because they're very speedy, have a great continuity check, and no bad habits. I can tell you that I have an Extech something or other here.  It has a crap continuity test, and is slow as molasses.  Very unpleasant to use as anything but a second meter for occasional measurements.

Yea, I found no funny quirks in the 2709b. Maybe the battery was failing when the "quirks" manifested?

And before anyone buys a Uni-T, watch Dave's teardown video I linked above. After watching that, I wouldn't touch one with a ten foot pole. Also, they generally go for around $50, while the 2709b goes for $80.

That sure is worth some MOVs and general build quality, right? Even if you THINK that "oh I'll never measure high voltage", a multimeter is something you buy for 10 years, or 20. You'll probably do some home remodeling, and need to measure mains... Or decide to build a tesla coil for fun. Or a solar panel setup on your roof.

Go with a "real" meter. The 2709b is most certainly one.

My DMM is half broken and has a shitty continuity test since the beginning. It's very frustrating because I still do shitty PCBs and need to check them so a good continuity test is very important to me.

I might buy a DMM, but I'll do my own one for short term and for fun. I put some schematics in this forum thread, I'll check them all and do the one I consider better (the programmable one seems better and easy to do).