Files for enclosure work.

[paulca]

Information overload, thanks.  I took a look for those punches, but as expected they are fairly expensive.

The files have already solved a purpose, my crusty, barely ever tinned soldering iron tip cleaned up with a file to bare cooper and now has a proper shiny tip.  That should make my soldering go easier.

The files are of course check rubbish with varying grades of abrasion across the surface of the same file.   I expect they will do the job I need of them fine though.

[cdev]

I would be extremely interested in finding some "howto" on how to successfully lay out and use small files for making small non-round holes in aluminum.

I can only recommend Swiss files (UMV Vallorbe, Grobert, Corradi) above anything. But DICK, PFERD and HASE brands from Germany are quite decent as well. They offer special cuts for aluminium and soft metals as well as files suitable for stainless steel. Vallorbe 'Habilis' files are very nice, they are needle-file styled in the size of smaller machinist's files. Also their 'Valtitan' range is nice. I knew a Us company making (really!) decent files, but I can't find the name right now.

When filing aluminium, use petroleum (lamp oil without smell, or medical oleum petrae) as lubricant/separation aid and the chips will not stick to your file.

When getting needle files: a type that is not included in the standard kits is the knife type. But it is very useful, as it can make a precise first cut when one wants to saw a hard material. Prevents the hacksaw dancing away from the intended line of cutting.

Also get a small triangular scraper for cleaning out corners of openings made by the methods described above. A good scribe is also recommended. Also, the swivelling deburring tools (Noga/Shaviv and compatible ones) are extremely useful. A small one will probably suffice, just get some different blades for it to fit your material.

I personally do not like the automatic center punches. They can jump if not correctly adjusted and make a false impression near the correct one.

Whatever you do, do not allow your files to rub at each other! If lacking the special roll or case, make your own by plastic welding out of heavy-duty plastic bags or roll them in alternate directions in protective paper (brown stuff) or soft cloth.
As stated by other posters, diamond files are limited in their applications. Working well on hard materials. Sometimes stick abrasives (like Degussit) are better, sometimes not.

But the biggest time-saver for making panels of any sort are the sheet metal punches like those offered by Greenlee and others. They can be actuted by a spanner for occasional use and come in a lot of shapes.
For example, the Sub-D connector cutouts and small rectangular cutouts can be made with nearly no corrective work needed.

[Neomys Sapiens]

Which part of my message do you refer to? I was answering a thread that was already running under the assumption that it will be done with files. I am not saying that it is my preferred method. But it can be done.

I had to do it once before Dremels were widely available. I had to make two panel meter cutouts and two or three 10x15 mm cutouts. You drill holes of about 3mm as close as possible along the contour, but staying well inside. If you have a short, very stiff drill, you can make them even touch. Then you severe the remaining links with a small cold chisel or a fret saw. When this is done and the plug removed, you finish by filing the opening carefully to the previously marked contour.
I have to admit that having to do it more often would be a serious incentive towards inventing the CNC mill. 

[cdev]

Oh, you encapsulated my opinion of the situation. I'm basically in the same boat as you are. Ive done okay on these - usually rectangular holes. Ive used drill, nibbling tool, etc. It doesnt even take that long (although it feels like it does, it really doesn't. My holes dont look that bad, apart from the infrequent one that is just a little bit off.

The problem is, people are now spoiled (at least I am) I want it to look better. The only way I'm likely to get that with metal is with an CNC or its equivalent.

I have some nice small files. Thinking about it I think my best shot at getting nice small holes in a reasonable amount of time is likely to cut holes a bit small and then enlarge them by hand using the files.

Its not the flashy modern solution but it is likely to work.

Which part of my message do you refer to? I was answering a thread that was already running under the assumption that it will be done with files. I am not saying that it is my preferred method. But it can be done.

I had to do it once before Dremels were widely available. I had to make two panel meter cutouts and two or three 10x15 mm cutouts. You drill holes of about 3mm as close as possible along the contour, but staying well inside. If you have a short, very stiff drill, you can make them even touch. Then you severe the remaining links with a small cold chisel or a fret saw. When this is done and the plug removed, you finish by filing the opening carefully to the previously marked contour.
I have to admit that having to do it more often would be a serious incentive towards inventing the CNC mill.

[basinstreetdesign]

Well, here is my very first enclosed project:



https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/nodemcu-esp8266-rs485-epever-solar-monitor-diy/

 

[tggzzz]

I have some nice small files. Thinking about it I think my best shot at getting nice small holes in a reasonable amount of time is likely to cut holes a bit small and then enlarge them by hand using the files.

You can reduce the amount of filing by drilling one hole, then using a jewellers piercing saw to cut arbitrarily close to the desired line.

See my previous message for examples.

[ChrisLX200]

Trap the workpiece in your vice jaws with the line barely showing above the top, then file down to the vice jaw using it as a guide to get a straight edge. Vice jaws are normally hard steel (decent vices) and will not be harmed by the file. Finish by draw filing. You can make your own jaw guides out of hardened gauge-plate (oil-hardening steel) if required, or if your vice does not have hardened jaws. An alternative is to make your own (sacrificial) soft mild steel jaws to reduce wear on the file teeth, but the mild steel jaws need to be replaced as they wear. Whatever, it's not wise to use your finest Swiss files with hard steel jaws and any cheap smooth-cut 8" files will do (those were probably not very sharp to start with!).

This is an insanely quick way of achieving a precise and straight filed edge, I've used in the past to profile model locomotive connecting rods which are something of an awkward shape (being tapered) and much thicker than metal used for making enclosures.

[Neomys Sapiens]

You can reduce the amount of filing by drilling one hole, then using a jewellers piercing saw to cut arbitrarily close to the desired line.

See my previous message for examples.

I have one of those. Very handy indeed. It became even more useful when I made a visit to a local company that makes precision sawing machines using diamond-coated wire. They are used in the semiconductors industry, tool production and for materials testing. They had 2 diameters on hand. When I told them that I would need 5m each, they cut it off and gave it to me for free. Fits perfectly in the abovementioned saw!

[cdev]

That looks quite useful.

Well, here is my very first enclosed project:

It only required dropping a screw stanchion to hold the NodeMCU between it and the lid, a notch for the USB which I hacked with a bit of drill w/ cutting disc (saw would have been better), a bit of xacto gouging and a 6mm hole for an RJ45 cable. 

Still I'm proud of it. It's neat, rugged and functional.  Kinda cute too, blue LED in a blue case.  <shrug>

I didn't need to worry about fixing anything else besides the NodeMCU as there was no room, it was a tight squeeze there are 3 boards in there!



https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/nodemcu-esp8266-rs485-epever-solar-monitor-diy/