EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Beginners => Topic started by: bumba000 on October 15, 2015, 06:07:45 am
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Hi All,
I'm working on my first project. I plan to build an E-Cig! I've received some pointers from some folks through the eevblog chat IRC over the past few weeks. I've also watched a ton of videos by Dave on youtube some I've watched many times just trying to wrap my head around this stuff. It's nuts. I really don't know much about electronics but have dealt with 12V stuff for a while. Not that I'm a 12v expert , but I do know a little bit about power and a little bit about how things work.
I figured I'd create an account here and post my first success. It's taken me all day to work out a single problem / question but I did it on my own with help from one of Daves youtube videos. Earlier today I posted a question on another forum and it got me nowhere though in their defense they have been helpful in the past week or so. You can pickup on my conversation with myself here http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/lipo-charger-and-usb-detect.116538/ (http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/lipo-charger-and-usb-detect.116538/)
OK. enough about me. So, what are you wearing?? Kidding of course.
Also, I ordered an FTDI cable from ebay from china yesterday after trying to source parts from around the house to make my own. Figuring that wasn't going to happen - I bought one. Thinking about it now, I sure hope it can't be ruined by this driver situation. Caught another of Daves videos regarding the FTDI chips and am now a bit concerned...
Anyways, this is my hello - HELLO!
Thanks for having me, JohnJohn |O
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Also, I ordered an FTDI cable from ebay from china yesterday after trying to source parts from around the house to make my own.
Oh hear :palm: since when do FTDI chips just hang around the house :)
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Anyways, this is my hello - HELLO!
Hello and welcome!
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I had never heard of an FTDI chip before last night. Figured between all the extra computers, hdd's, cd roms, external roms and cables Id be able to source one "locally". No.
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So yesterday you did not know about FTDI and now you want to build E-Cig? Sounds ambitious.
I'll have a go at it, and for my first mechanical project I'm gonna build a car. I could not source windshield wiper motors locally, so I've ordered some from ebay.
Why not start from something simpler for a first project?
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I've been working on the ecig for three weeks. I decided on an FTDI cable because since I've started the ecig I found that an oscilloscope was a good idea and built one from a tutorial. Then found that I needed to get my ecig inductor up to 100kHz or so which was too much for the sound card type oscope and was told that reading the data by serial would be my next best bet. Short of one appearing magically I figured I'd make one of them too.
Hello, my name is John. I don't really think "can i swim". I think "i'm gonna do this shit" and I jump in worrying about sinking later. I learn best by jumping in head first. Sometimes there are rocks there and it hurts, but I learn. You can help or move but I'm going for swim now just as soon as I finish this beer. Thank you.
Also, really the first project was making an LED blink. then blink faster. 8)
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:palm: :palm: :palm: :palm: welcome aboard, even if you will swim around.
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I've been working on the ecig for three weeks. I decided on an FTDI cable because since I've started the ecig I found that an oscilloscope was a good idea and built one from a tutorial. Then found that I needed to get my ecig inductor up to 100kHz or so which was too much for the sound card type oscope and was told that reading the data by serial would be my next best bet. Short of one appearing magically I figured I'd make one of them too.
are you on pot?
Hello, my name is John...just as soon as I finish this beer. Thank you.
now that make some sense.
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:palm: :palm: :palm: :palm: welcome aboard, even if you will swim around.
Thank you Sir. I plan to become a permanent fixture here. Funny thing is I broke a cable tv remote control a week or so ago and spotted a neat looking chip in there. I've researched it. It's a dragonchip. Not sure what I can do with it yet but I'll put up some ID numbers soon and see what you all think. I'm sure we can come up with something cool to make from a busted remote control. Ahh hell, DC6683FL48X,, AB105D,, C4W533.00 . It has 28 pins and it's black (lol). I don't have the specs page handy, but I remember that it's a Dragon Chip. Never heard of it. That should go without saying since I've already stated not even knowing about FTDI before yesterday. Now what I do recall from researching is that I'd need a dragon chip programming interface connector board contraption thing. Any other way to hook this thing up and load some code?! So what can we do with it?!
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nope, quit smoking pot yesterday. got on the cracks for a while but I couldn't surface solder so went back to beer.
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nope, quit smoking pot yesterday. got on the cracks for a while but I couldn't surface solder so went back to beer.
ok, we have an entertainer here... just dont try to make too much of a joke here. the admins are not that joking as you'd think they'd be...
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nope, quit smoking pot yesterday. got on the cracks for a while but I couldn't surface solder so went back to beer.
ok, we have an entertainer here... just dont try to make too much of a joke here. the admins are not that joking as you'd think they'd be...
Nothing Wrong with Beer or Pot (though, it's legal here, I can't stand the smell of the crap myself), but saying you do crack, that's nothing to be proud of.
Although, it was once believed that Cocaine was a medicinal product (i guess in some ways it still is), that is why Coca-Cola put it in it's drinks way back when.
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I'm confused by this train of thought:
E-cig -> scope: I get this bit, you need to measure the signal your driving your inductor with and your soundcard can't handle signals that fast to use on a PC base scope.
E-cig -> FTDI cable: erm, ok? so your wanting to "roll your own" (no pun intended) serial interface scope probe? <<<--- THIS IS YOUR PROJECT YOU SHOULD START WITH :-+
Also: Beer - Good; pot - nothing against it, tried it, no likely much, won't do much for your learning; Crack - leave that stuff alone if your serious about taking up electronics!
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Ahh yes, the old Dragon Chip DC6683FL48X,, AB105D,, C4W533.00 28pin black variant.
You'll be needing one of these in order to program that chip...
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2hqz6fb.jpg)
IMO, you'd want to get the FTDI compatible version of the above.
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Although, it was once believed that Cocaine was a medicinal product (i guess in some ways it still is), that is why Coca-Cola put it in it's drinks way back when.
Cocaine is used as a topical anaesthetic drug for certain procedures. I never heard of crack being used for this purpose though.
Now, about the vape project... Danger everywhere. High current spikes to heat the coil (risk of battery damage and overheating), parts that might get hot enough to set something on fire if proper materials aren't selected, and you're going to use it to vaporise a rather poisonous material (nicotine). This project will require some thorough safety testing.
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wow this really went out there a ways guys. No I do Not smoke pot or crack. I drink beer. I have smoked cigarettes for 28 years and finally quit 3 months ago.
I do not plan to power an ecig from my sound card and I am going to sleep now.
John
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wow this really went out there a ways guys. No I do Not smoke pot or crack. I drink beer. I have smoked cigarettes for 28 years and finally quit 3 months ago.
Onya for kicking the habit. Re the pot & crack, I guess the sarcasm and humour got lost over the wireless.
Re your project, to "build an e-cig", you'll have to assume you're talking to non-vapers. Hand-held variable wattage power supply?
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I do not plan to power an ecig from my sound card and I am going to sleep now.
:o ;D
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Onya for kicking the habit. Re the pot & crack, I guess the sarcasm and humour got lost over the wireless.
I think that was more a case of natural assumptions due to eratic and near lunatic posts. This might be a fun oe to deal with.
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Onya for kicking the habit. Re the pot & crack, I guess the sarcasm and humour got lost over the wireless.
I think that was more a case of natural assumptions due to eratic and near lunatic posts. This might be a fun oe to deal with.
Lunatic to a point that an orange color strip looks red?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100x-10K-ohm-1-8W-0-125W-resistors-axial-through-hole-/181287715252?hash=item2a359701b4 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100x-10K-ohm-1-8W-0-125W-resistors-axial-through-hole-/181287715252?hash=item2a359701b4)
;-)
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Do you know how many hours it takes to produce those 3D models and pull the reulting JPG off it, you think i put one up for every value ?
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Well, spending all that time on 3D models is a bit nuts when you can use a plain old photo.
FWIW here you go 10k (adds 20 seconds on top of the many hours to produce the dubious 3D):
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Still looks pretty red to me. The story is a long and old one if you must. Some time ago eBay who are the absolute experts in everything and know more about my products than I do decided that an image 50 pixels wide was no longer big enough to illustrate a product that many of us in the know do not need a picture to identify as often the simple package code is enough such as T0220. But no these tiny items some of them only a few millimetres long now needed representing in images that were at least 500 pixels wide. Most available images are around about 50 pixels maybe 100 and you can easily pilfer them from people like Farnell. But with the requirement for 500 pixels this became a problem. At first I thought I will photograph the components and I also thought I don't want everyone else to be using my pictures as I want commercial advantage having gone to all this trouble. Having dabbled in photography I was well aware of how difficult it could actually be to get a decent 500 pixel image of a 1206 surface mount resistor. And in fact my initial attempts at taking detailed photos failed miserably.
But I had been for a year or more working in 3-D CAD I was quite acquainted with how to produce 3-D models. And items such as resistors and other electronic components are at the end of the day fairly trivial to model. However just the same as taking a picture of each and every type of my components and then editing them and then uploading them would have taken hours so did the process of modelling my components which in itself does not take long but then extracting an image and uploading it to all my listings which already had perfectly good images. So having being moved into extreme inconvenience by eBay I took the plunge and did it my way. Obviously the images are only representations for example your TO220 package may not be the exact type news for the product I said as I'm sure we are all aware some have sharper corners some have a little notch out of the sides of the tab some have a nice rounded plastic body somehow sharp edged plastic bodies they are so many small variations. It also means that I can write my trade name on the images.
I hope that satisfies your curiosity
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Do you know how many hours it takes to produce those 3D models and pull the reulting JPG off it, you think i put one up for every value ?
Anyway, I like your other resistor posting with selectable values and amounts and combined shipping costs.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SparkyLabs-0-25W-1-4W-1-resistors-various-E12-values-10K-10M-/181288258879?var=&hash=item6fd4bace1b (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SparkyLabs-0-25W-1-4W-1-resistors-various-E12-values-10K-10M-/181288258879?var=&hash=item6fd4bace1b)
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Yes and they can take an hour to do without the photo and i ran out of multi variation allowance and had to do them in two lots, it's almost faster to list every value individually.
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Do you know how many hours it takes to produce those 3D models and pull the reulting JPG off it, you think i put one up for every value ?
Hey Simon, your image looks great. You've done a fine job.
I am a bit confused though. With all the work that you've done to create the image you must know that changing each color could be incredibly simple using the right program and tool. Do you happen to have Adobe Fireworks or Photoshop? I can make it very easy for you to change the color of each band if you'd like.
I don't mean to butt in, just trying to be of assistance.
John
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Hello John, it's a discussion forum, you are free to suggest and discuss. I could just as easily colour each band on the model before producing the image, it's just not really worth the hassle as for the multi item listings i then have tens of images for one listing which probably puts me over the image limit and it takes a very long time. It's not just the time to produce the images but the time to manage the listings. It's like a design job at work, I can spend more time doing the paperwork than the model.
of course i have used the same incorrect image for the 1% values I mostly stock as they should be 5 band with a brown tolerance band but they have the same 1K 5% image, probably the most manufactured and sold value.
When it comes to surface mount models they have the added benefor that I could use them in Diptrace as I do export my boards to 3D cad where they fit into the mechanical assembly, so nice models that are correct and have rounds are better than the models diptace carries as standard that were made in wings 3d which does not support curves.
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I figured if you wanted a different image for each value that you should be able do it yourself, just figured I'd offer just in case. Then I had also considered the multiple listings... With just one image you can make just one listing and give the customer a list of options of values. Great! That's exactly what I would do. Your work looks great and they should sell just fine for you.
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As a smoker, I would offer help with your E-Cig project. It sounds really interesting to use FTDI cable for E-cig. But I am really busy splitting my 2M Ohm resistor into 20 100K resistors. I don't want to use up an entire 20MOhm in one shot...
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As a smoker, I would offer help with your E-Cig project. It sounds really interesting to use FTDI cable for E-cig. But I am really busy splitting my 2M Ohm resistor into 20 100K resistors. I don't want to use up an entire 20MOhm in one shot...
You can use resistors to create smoke. They are pretty cheap.
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As a smoker, I would offer help with your E-Cig project. It sounds really interesting to use FTDI cable for E-cig. But I am really busy splitting my 2M Ohm resistor into 20 100K resistors. I don't want to use up an entire 20MOhm in one shot...
The purpose of the FTDI cable is to help see what the present PWM frequency of the atmega328 is. Using the pro trinket board that I'm using which is the 3.3V version out of the box it's PWM frequencies are 75% of the 5V version. So there was a bit of coding that I do not yet understand to increase the frequency from 750Hz to 100kHz. Apparently a sound card oscilloscope can not handle frequencies this high so I can't see what new frequency is that's been set in code. I will need another way of measuring it. I was told to use my FTDI cable to see the frequency. Not sure how that's going to work, but it sure beats a $300 oscope if it does work. If not, well I still end up with an FTDI cable.
These are the parts that I'll be using for the ecig and they will be here tomorrow.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IRLR6225TRPBF/IRLR6225TRPBFCT-ND/2538170 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IRLR6225TRPBF/IRLR6225TRPBFCT-ND/2538170)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SRP1770TA-2R2M/SRP1770TA-2R2MCT-ND/5429726 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SRP1770TA-2R2M/SRP1770TA-2R2MCT-ND/5429726)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RR71C101MDN1/493-3716-ND/2207252 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RR71C101MDN1/493-3716-ND/2207252)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VB20100S-E3%2F8W/VB20100S-E3%2F8WGICT-ND/1543677 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VB20100S-E3%2F8W/VB20100S-E3%2F8WGICT-ND/1543677)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IRLR7843TRPBF/IRLR7843PBFCT-ND/812583 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IRLR7843TRPBF/IRLR7843PBFCT-ND/812583)
I've already built a circuit based on the MAX1523 boost chip which works but doesn't put out nearly enough power even with the new super high PWM frequency.
I'm not running an ecig from my sound card. I'm not running an ecig from an FTDI cable. |O
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As a smoker, I would offer help with your E-Cig project. It sounds really interesting to use FTDI cable for E-cig. But I am really busy splitting my 2M Ohm resistor into 20 100K resistors. I don't want to use up an entire 20MOhm in one shot...
The purpose of the FTDI cable is to help see what the present PWM frequency of the atmega328 is. Using the pro trinket board that I'm using which is the 3.3V version out of the box it's PWM frequencies are 75% of the 5V version. So there was a bit of coding that I do not yet understand to increase the frequency from 750Hz to 100kHz. Apparently a sound card oscilloscope can not handle frequencies this high so I can't see what new frequency is that's been set in code. I will need another way of measuring it. I was told to use my FTDI cable to see the frequency. Not sure how that's going to work, but it sure beats a $300 oscope if it does work. If not, well I still end up with an FTDI cable.
...
Ahem, sorry, misunderstood.
Do you have a DMM with frequency capability? My UT61E ($60 range) measured an MCU's pwm output rather nicely. In fact, easier and better than my Hantek 6022BE 20MHz ($80). My scope uses 8bit ADC and gives me only 2-3 digit resolution whereas my DMM has four digits resolution and much better accuracy than the scope.
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Hey Rick, I missed your response. No I don't. I have an UEI DM383B, a GE GE2524 and an 72-8155 LCR meter. I'm thinking about one of them build your own Oscope kits from ebay that comes as a hundred parts with a 2.4" oled screen. They're only like $25 and it'll keep me busy for a day or so.
Also, I'm in NW Pennsylvania. So in the meantime if anyone with an oscilloscope is near by and wouldn't mind putting my project on test I sure would appreciate it.
Thanks, John
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It sounds like you are committed to the hobby... so you need a real oscilloscope. You should be able to find a good used analog scope in the 60-100MHz bandwidth region for under 200 dollars (Ebay, Craigslist, university surplus, etc.) , or bite the bullet and get something like a 400 dollar Rigol DS1054Z. Why waste your time on toys? (Although some might say that the Rigol is a "toy".... it is fun to play with, after all....)
It has often been said that the Lathe is the "King of Tools" ... so the oscilloscope is the "King of Test Equipment." You neeeeeeed one.
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Oh yeah, I've been window shopping, but unfortunately my wife doesn't quite feel the same way as I do about all of this and she certainly doesn't see the need for a $200 oscilloscope. :'(
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nothing will replace a proper oscilloscope. Keep an eye on ebay for something second hand. DON'T buy OWON they are crap, the PSU has failed in mine although it could be something as stupid as the NTC
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How is this diode used? http://www.vishay.com/docs/88975/v20100s.pdf (http://www.vishay.com/docs/88975/v20100s.pdf)
I have the TO-263AB version. I'm pretty sure I understand the right leg is Anode, left is cathode and bottom/back is heatsink contact. will the A or C ever make contact with K?
Also, can this mosfet be used in the positive side of the circuit? http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlr6225pbf.pdf (http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlr6225pbf.pdf)
Thank You, John
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How is this diode used? http://www.vishay.com/docs/88975/v20100s.pdf (http://www.vishay.com/docs/88975/v20100s.pdf)
I have the TO-263AB version. I'm pretty sure I understand the right leg is Anode, left is cathode and bottom/back is heatsink contact. will the A or C ever make contact with K?
Also, can this mosfet be used in the positive side of the circuit? http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlr6225pbf.pdf (http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlr6225pbf.pdf)
Thank You, John
Oh where to start I'm not sure what you mean by the C pin for the diode. You have an anode and cathode. The cathode is generally represented with a K and is the negative side of the diode. The anode is the positive side of the diode represented by an A.
For simplicity's take you do not want to be using an N channel MOSFET on the positive side of the circuit. Technically it's possible but given your level of understanding I would use a the channel for the minute.
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Hey Rick, I missed your response. No I don't. I have an UEI DM383B, a GE GE2524 and an 72-8155 LCR meter. I'm thinking about one of them build your own Oscope kits from ebay that comes as a hundred parts with a 2.4" oled screen. They're only like $25 and it'll keep me busy for a day or so.
Also, I'm in NW Pennsylvania. So in the meantime if anyone with an oscilloscope is near by and wouldn't mind putting my project on test I sure would appreciate it.
Thanks, John
John, I appreciate your enthusiasm. The "No I don't" I suppose is the answer to my question: "Do you have a DMM?"
If so, I suggest you get a DMM first before you start touching the oscilloscope kit. I too am new (2yr-ish") with this electronic thing as a hobby, I found my DMM the most valuable measurement device in my collection. Even if you just get the eBay $1 DMM (with shipping=$5), it still would be better than no DMM at all in my view.
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thanks rick. I have a total of 4 digital multimeters.
As for the N-Mosfet, www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlr6225pbf.pdf (http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlr6225pbf.pdf)
Please help me understand why I connect my
DMM positive lead to my battery +
battery negative to mosfet Drain
my DMM negative lead to the mosfet Source I get a voltage
(http://i.imgur.com/1mAhxAk.png)
I have nothing connected to the gate but it's still passing through a voltage. I thought I had the fet backwards but I do not. I tried it backawrds and still have voltage pass through. It's less but still voltage. What am I missing here?
Thank You, John
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Look at the symbol of the FET you have a diode in parallel. If you connect it "back to front" it will work just like a diode albeit a bad one.
Most semiconductors are not perfect isolators when off and could still conduct current. Your multimeter has a very high input impedance so even with a high impedance across the drain and source of your FET you could register a voltage. The other thing which is even more likely is that static is triggering your gate or partly triggering it. Connect a resistor between the gates and source and then try again. Most likely you will read nothing.
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I've tried the resistor (pull down) 100k, it didn't seem to have an effect. What size would you recommend?
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well even 1M should do it but you can also use no resistor and short it
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a resistor isn't doing the trick, a direct short isn't doing the trick and there's enough, current/voltage/power (whatever) there to light an LED. Oh my gosh!
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it could also be that you have damaged it with static from your body.
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connecting the mosfet backwards, where S = battery NEG, D = led NEG the led doesnt light up. connecting my pwm to the gate the led turns on. Im at a complete loss here.
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I think by backwards you mean the right way around, what supply voltage are you using ? an LED needs to be current regulated with a resistor at least.
I suggest you look up mosfets on google (or just hit wikipedia) and read how they work, just messing about with it will not test you much before you blow it up.
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I seem to get confused often and I'm trying to come up with a way to remember.
What I think is correct is this. N channel: Drain from battery proving source to circuit. Correct?
Now, I've just taken a brand new fet from the static bag and connected it as stated above with the circuit again being the LED. It does not light up. I connect my PWM to the Gate and it stinking works!
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is there an off switch on these things? LOL, I mean seriously, I just can't seem to get this right. I'm going to stop bothering you all with my apparent stupidity now I just figured I'd toss this out there.
Same as before using either of two brand new mosfets;
18650 battery NEG to Fet Drain, from Fet Drain to LED Neg, from LED Pos to Bat Pos and the LED is lit up. I can not make it turn off. I thought it should be off unless I trigger the gate with a positive voltage.
I'm ready to chew the mosfets to pieces!
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LOL, I mean seriously, I just can't seem to get this right. I'm going to stop bothering you all with my apparent stupidity now I just figured I'd toss this out there.
the oppression of the beer has diminished, beer and fet is not a good mix... welcome to the club of the magic smokers...
edit: err i meant, excessive amount of...
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well that little mosfet was no match for channel locks and a rusty screwdriver. I really gave it my best shot. I found what I thought would be a little help through the google, but it wasn't really help. It was just another way to end with the same result.
from all about circuits forum:
I usually feed the gate of a mosfet through a 10k resistor, but I always have a 220k resistor between the gate and ground...
Did not work. The damn LED just stays lit - mocking me. So I killed it's mosfet. Guess what! The LED turned off!
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Another new mosfet. Same result. Never even connected my pwm to gate. Just what's in the schematic and the LED is lit up. :wtf:
www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlr6225pbf.pdf (http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlr6225pbf.pdf)
(http://i.imgur.com/UeLK3qu.png)
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well. it appears that I had the first one wired properly. It was still lighting the led faintly so I assumed it was wrong and then proceeded to wire it backward which really didn't work. Now it's correct but I need a resistor inline with the gate because my gate trigger won't stop putting out 0.020v. If I use a pull down resistor it stops the led from lightly glowing, but then it doesn't work at all when I press my PWM button. So I've added the 10k inline resistor, but now I don't get enough power to the gate to get all the power I need from source to drain.
What else can I do?
(http://i.imgur.com/XSUEV27.png)
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well. it appears that I had the first one wired properly.
What else can I do?
(http://i.imgur.com/XSUEV27.png)
put limiting resistor in series with the led if you dont want invisible smoke out of the led when gate is 100% pwm... and add pull down resistor from gate to ground if you dont want the gate swims to the high when pwm+ is disconnected..
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This is where I'm at now.
(http://i.imgur.com/8Mbdgyc.png)
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(http://emojipop.net/data/images/emoji_set_105.png)
but make sure Rgs is at least 10X the value of Rpwm...
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I'll go way out on a limb here..... :-\ (OOPS... I see that you are way ahead of me already. But here goes my 'splanation anyhow.)
First, get the battery-LED circuit right. Assume that the mosfet has essentially zero resistance when it's fully "ON".
The 18650 battery's nominal voltage is 3.7 volts. If you are using a generic Red LED, its "Forward voltage" is usually about 1.8 volts. And you want to limit your ON current to around 20 mA max. So you use Ohm's Law to calculate the desired series resistance. R=V/I, the LED drops 1.8 volts of the 3.7 V available so you need to drop the remaining 1.9 volts in the Ohm's Law equation. R = 1.9V/0.020 A = 95 ohms. So use a 100 ohm resistor ( the nearest standard value above the calculated value) in series with the anode side of the LED. This will limit the current through the LED to something near 20 mA. The resistor is usually connected on the Anode side of the LED.
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/219 (https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/219)
Next, let's deal with the mosfet. An N-channel mosfet is generally used as a "low side switch" which means it goes between the "bottom" of the load (the LED) and the negative rail of your power source (the negative pole of your battery.) The Source of the mosfet will _almost always_ be connected directly to the Source of electrons.... Ground, i.e. the negative rail. (Remember that electron flow is "backwards" from Conventional Current -- electron charge actually flows from Negative to Positive.) So the Drain of the mosfet is connected to the bottom of the load-- in your case the Cathode of the LED.
Now, the mosfet is a charge-activated device. This means you put charge (voltage) on the Gate and this turns the "switch" of the mosfet Drain-Source channel ON. But to turn the mosfet OFF you need to provide a way for this charge to leave the Gate. There is essentially no path through a working mosfet from Gate to either Source or Drain, unlike a bipolar transistor which works by current passing from Base to Emitter. SO you have to provide this path, by using a "pull down" resistor to allow the charge to depart from the Gate when the PWM signal is Low. This resistor goes from Gate to Source (negative rail) but it can't be so low in value that it interferes with the PWM signal's Hi state turning the mosfet ON. Generally we will use something like at least 100k, or 1 Meg, for this pulldown resistor.
Now.... how much charge can your PWM source supply to the Gate to turn it on? Do you really need 10k as a series resistor here? Probably not, and this may be what is limiting your mosfet from turning fully ON. (The mosfet is generally used as a "switch" but there is a "Linear response" region where the "on-ness" is partial and proportional to the Gate charge. Generally the mosfet will be very inefficient when operated in the Linear region and will waste power as heat.) It's very common to use small resistors like even as low as 10 Ohms for the Gate resistor. Try reducing the value of the Gate resistor until you get the mosfet to turn fully ON.
So now your circuit starts to take shape:
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I just looked at the Data Sheet for your mosfet and it gives the "typical" Rg as 2.2 ohms. So just use some small resistance, or even none, for your Arduino's PWM output signal to the mosfet.
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Hello All,
I'm going to be building up a small (for you big for me) circuit here as soon as I can get some approval. I've made this here schematic and would appreciate your feedback.
Thank you, John
(http://i.imgur.com/sdZno3q.png)
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I plan to include a feedback loop. Just forgot to include it in the schematic. I also forgot about the feedback loop, but I'm sure that I would have quickly remembered anyways. Thanks guys, looking forward to your feedback!
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is there an off switch on these things? LOL, I mean seriously, I just can't seem to get this right. I'm going to stop bothering you all with my apparent stupidity now I just figured I'd toss this out there.
Same as before using either of two brand new mosfets;
18650 battery NEG to Fet Drain, from Fet Drain to LED Neg, from LED Pos to Bat Pos and the LED is lit up. I can not make it turn off. I thought it should be off unless I trigger the gate with a positive voltage.
I'm ready to chew the mosfets to pieces!
try Widlarizing it
(http://i.imgur.com/o3bBbRd.jpg)
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What else can I do?
You could study electronics on your own like the rest of us... in order to understand a simple FET circuit.
I see this thread going on to be in the double digits for page count, ending in the members of this forum designing the aforementioned e-cig with the OP having learnt nothing.
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I'm ready to chew the mosfets to pieces!
I hear that sili con carne is nice! :-DD
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Maybe worth going through this tutorial: http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/transistor/tran_7.html (http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/transistor/tran_7.html)
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I just caught a video from dave thinking #90 mailbag. I've just learned the term widelizer. funny. Also, i'm pretty well past that mosfet led stump. Thanks tough.
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why not just use a battery, heater coil, and switch? this could all be done with under 4 components plus wiring and a case. you'd need to control the switching yourself, tough, but it's probably easier than fitting a trinket into an ecig sized case.
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why not just use a battery, heater coil, and switch? this could all be done with under 4 components plus wiring and a case. you'd need to control the switching yourself, tough, but it's probably easier than fitting a trinket into an ecig sized case.
High output currents (10+A) make mechanical switches less suitable for a portable device. Typically one would also want to be able to adjust the power output from ~7W to 50W or more for heating coil resistances in the range of ~0.2 to ~2 ohms. This may be done, e.g., by using a PWM signal to drive the FET.
But mechanical devices that do what you suggest are readily available. Their main limitation is that you have to make the heating coil with a precise resistance to get a certain power output. And if you change your mind or don't get it quite right, then you have to make another coil and hope for the best. With a variable voltage/power device you can dial it in.
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Got it! The last schematic I put up is what did it. With the exception of moving the diode and where I get the ground for the load. It's working fantastically. I have tweaked up the PWM frequency of my arduino pin 3 to 100kHZ but I'm thinking I need the speed of the arduino itself jacked up a bit, then adjust the code to compensate when counting time. It's working great and I'll take care of the rest of the coding in the morning. Too many Guinnies at this point!
Here's my final project and hopefully soon to be product.
(http://i.imgur.com/6ZPibvK.png)
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Great! Since you've got all the Arduino flexibility, show Evolv how it's done and add temperature control. ;)
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lolz, you're really calling me out huh? Well for temperature control I'd have to work in some kind of sensor and for that I'd likely have to ask a bunch more questions here suffering abuse all the while. I'm not that into temperature control. Ya know, china makes some nice units that do temp control, here they start around $100.
Ahh yes, I think I'll have another...
(http://i.imgur.com/yNC3ql0.jpg)
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On second thought. I think temp sense can be done with a resistor, couldn't it? The hotter a resistor gets the more it resists. Unless I misunderstood that over the past weeks. So the hotter the coil in ecig gets the more resistance is created. So a temp sensor can be achieved with a simple feedback sensor??
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How do you intend to handle the atomiser end of the e-cig?
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How do you intend to handle the atomiser end of the e-cig?
Can you be a little more specific? I guess I don't understand what you're asking...
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On second thought. I think temp sense can be done with a resistor, couldn't it? The hotter a resistor gets the more it resists. Unless I misunderstood that over the past weeks. So the hotter the coil in ecig gets the more resistance is created. So a temp sensor can be achieved with a simple feedback sensor??
Instead of a normal resistor, use a thermistor!
A thermistor is a type of resistor whose resistance is dependent on temperature, more so than in standard resistors.
Maybe the more experienced people can elaborate, I'm still a n00b ^-^
GreatScott did a video on temperature measurement recently:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1U4fep_qAeo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1U4fep_qAeo)
Maybe you could adapt it to your needs...
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Temp control is done by using temperature sensitive wire (nickel, titanium, stainless steel, tungsten, ...) for the heating coil and then gauging the temperature from the resistance change of the coil. No extra sensors needed. But fair enough if you don't want/need it.
Yeah, China makes them as does the US. (And they start around $30 these days not $100, e.g., Eleaf iStick 40W.) But same can be said for what you're trying to make. Why don't you just buy an inexpensive VW "mod"? For temp control I have one of the early DNA 40s from the US: extremely poor implementation, not worth the bother; and the more recent Chinese made Koopor mini, which worked well till it spontaneously released the magic smoke after a couple of months of use. :-/
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I don't want to add a thermistor. My point was that the heating element is for the most part a resistor. Mostly range from 0.2ohm to 1.5ohm. So in the feedback that I'll be sampling anyways I guess I could work in a bit of code that could detect a change in resistance. Since before letting the pwm button activate the coil I'll need to know the ohm load anyways, I can also then check in the return voltage for changes which would have to be due to a change in temperature... sounds easy enough. we'll have to see.
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Okay, fair enough. ;D
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do you really eat tofu?
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do you really eat tofu?
Tofu is alright. ;D
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I strongly suggest you read up on some theory, find a basic book or read some online articles, then we can talk to you on the same level.
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Simon, we were all just chatting seemingly without issue. What are you referring to?
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you are trying to make things with very little knowledge. If you want to be in a position to design stuff by yourself you need some theory. The more you know the more we can help you.
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I am trying to learn. Normally I research a bit and ask questions, research a bit and ask questions. Sorry that I can not afford to go to shcool. Here in the U.S. it's pretty costly and I don't have costly in the bank. Nor do I need a degree. I am truly sorry if my way of learning which is comfortable for me and affordable for me offends you or pisses you off. If you own this forum I will leave. If you do not own this forum and you're bothered by me then please just disregard any future posts that I make.
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I am trying to learn. Normally I research a bit and ask questions, research a bit and ask questions. Sorry that I can not afford to go to shcool. Here in the U.S. it's pretty costly and I don't have costly in the bank. Nor do I need a degree. I am truly sorry if my way of learning which is comfortable for me and affordable for me offends you or pisses you off. If you own this forum I will leave. If you do not own this forum and you're bothered by me then please just disregard any future posts that I make.
No need to get upset. I don't have any qualifications either and learnt by myself. No no one needs a degree, plenty of us don't have those but sometimes people are eager to get stuff done and put the cart in front of the horse a bit.
Your way of learning so far sounds like blowing stuff up and then finding out why, surely there is a cheaper way than that :D.
But suit yourself, no I don't own the forum and you don't need to leave just because we have a difference of opinion. I'm just the moderaor and make sure that people get along, and having different views is fine.
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Simon, Thank you. I appreciate the help. I guess it just seems as though many folks (starting weeks ago in the IRC) wan't me to be an expert before they'll give any help or guidance. If I were an expert I wouldn't need help. I need help so I don't blow up. Fortunately I haven't hurt myself or burned my house down yet. At this point I've a few small and one slightly larger projects done. I've come this far in just a few weeks and I feel pretty good about it.
Funny thing is that what really got me interested in all of this was quitting smoking, started vaping and decided to make my own. Got into arduino, programmed one up, realized I needed more power and found Dave on youtube. First video was regarding opamps. wow, blew my mind. Enough so that I just had to get into this. It's just been crazy that 1/2 of my questions seem to be answered by someone telling me to learn. WTF?! that's what I'm trying to do. :-//
Love you guys!! Thanks for the help you've given. I hope we can put this behind us. I've a lot more learning to do and thus a lot more questions will need to be answered.
John
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Advanced education has never been cheaper than it is now since so many colleges and universities offer free online classes.
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you are trying to make things with very little knowledge. If you want to be in a position to design stuff by yourself you need some theory. The more you know the more we can help you.
+1 over and over.
How do you intend to handle the atomiser end of the e-cig?
Can you be a little more specific? I guess I don't understand what you're asking...
The atomiser is a crucial part of an e-cig.
I don't think you have the knowledge to undertake a project like this and it would be dangerous if you continued on with it without having a fundamental knowledge of 1.) pre EE circuit theory, 2.) knowing what are the basic parts to an e-cig.
Quite frankly, I'm getting tired of seeing posts by noobs asking about things that they could have used a textbook/website/google/search button on this forum instead of jumping straight into making a new thread to be spoon fed the answer they're looking for... let alone claiming they smoke crack.
It's just been crazy that 1/2 of my questions seem to be answered by someone telling me to learn. WTF?! that's what I'm trying to do. :-//
You're asking to be spoon fed in order to make your "own" product. |O
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Dude, I'm vaping from it right now. Spoon fed? Dude you're the worst of them all. Thanks for chiming in. :box:
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You're asking to be spoon fed in order to make your "own" product. |O
It's a learning experience.
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Funny thing is that what really got me interested in all of this was quitting smoking, started vaping and decided to make my own. Got into arduino, programmed one up, realized I needed more power and found Dave on youtube. First video was regarding opamps. wow, blew my mind. Enough so that I just had to get into this. It's just been crazy that 1/2 of my questions seem to be answered by someone telling me to learn. WTF?! that's what I'm trying to do. :-//
Yes i once gave away an old PC PSU to a guy that was doing E-Smoking. I don't think your reason for entering electronics is unique.
forums are great for thrashing out ideas and talking about different ways of doing things and perhaps getting insight on one specific problem. but you need enough knowledge to have that discussion, if every time we give you a pointer in another direction you need to start again it means you might need a bit more foundation. I don't know anything about E-smoking (other than the unintentional silicone kind ;)) but people that seem to are concerned that you may be on the road to doing yourself an injury.
Wikipedia is actually a decent online resource and if you look up a component on it you will find tons of information about it. A lot of it probably too deep and unneccesary but it will give you a good grounding. We can go into deep theory of every aspect of your projects or each thread will turn into a book.
If you have a question about a specific part of theory we can easily expand on that and help explain it.
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OK... I'll go way out on a limb here again and link to this video I made a few years ago while trying to explain some things to a... er.... rather "different" user group. It's part of my "Mosfets.... How DO they work?" series. Sorry about the poor video quality, I've since gone to a slightly better transcoder than I was using then.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUJ9PIlAOAs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUJ9PIlAOAs)
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OK... I'll go way out on a limb here again and link to this video I made a few years ago while trying to explain some things to a... er.... rather "different" user group. It's part of my "Mosfets.... How DO they work?" series. Sorry about the poor video quality, I've since gone to a slightly better transcoder than I was using then.
Subscribed to your channel, thanks!
Afrotechmods also posted a video on MOSFETs and Transistors in general:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Te5YYVZiOKs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Te5YYVZiOKs)
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Thanks for subscribing! You will probably find a lot of it dull and boring but I hope you enjoy it anyhow. EEVblog, it ain't! (I dig afrotechmod's videos too... he's pitching to a slightly more sophisticate audience than most of mine.... :-/O )
If the circuit for that video above isn't perfectly clear to anyone, I just drew it out, attached below.
The idea could be adapted to the Arduino Ecig problem by polling the Vdrop across an NTC with an analogRead statement and adjusting the PWM duty cycle accordingly, and the scaling and whether the feedback loop is positive or negative can be done very simply in the software.
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the easiest way of knowing what the temperature is based on the heating elements resistance is to measure the current going into the element with a series resistor. You can use the Arduino's 1.1 V reference for the ADC channels so that you get maximum resolution and minimum loss and then knowing the average voltage you are putting across the element because you know the PWM duty you are supplying you can deduce the elements resistance from the current going in. This is the easiest thing from a circuit point of view for John and the rest is in software. Naturally signal from the series resistor needs low pass filtering or else it could pick up the full current from an on state of the PWM or no current from an off state during the PWM.
All if the sampling frequency of the ADC is fast enough and the PWM cycle on the high side lasts long enough the ADC reading can be taken from when the PWM cycle goes high but my guess is you don't have that sort of control in the Arduino. It's something you could do in theory in C in the at melt development environment where you have direct access to all the registers.
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Dude, I'm vaping from it right now. Spoon fed? Dude you're the worst of them all. Thanks for chiming in. :box:
Without knowing what an atomiser is... lel. :blah:
The product has been "made"
+1 to close this thread.
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Dude, I'm vaping from it right now. Spoon fed? Dude you're the worst of them all. Thanks for chiming in. :box:
Without knowing what an atomiser is... lel. :blah:
The product has been "made"
+1 to close this thread.
Whoa there friend, you might need to slow it down.
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I can't see why we need to close the thread.
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I just find it frustrating that threads from people who are asking legitimate questions where the online information is scarce, sometimes get left with zero or very few replies yet this guy clearly has no clue about electronics, signs up and says he smokes crack, yet the thread carries on for pages and pages with people spoon feeding the guy.
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Well I'm afraid you can't tell people what threads to reply or not to and I'm only here to ensure everyone plays fair not to evaluate how well people do at replying to questions.
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Don't get me wrong, I completely understand. Just venting a little frustration I have with the forum.
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Yes i know what you mean. I am afraid there is the entertainment value of some threads that will make them more popular. After all we do this for fun and engineers are after all mostly good people at least the ones on forums and they like to help people and solve problems.
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signs up and says he smokes crack.
in his defense.. he denied pot and crack but admitted beers... to the OP, you need to get yourself a little bit organized, you need to clearly see the V=IR, once you get the feel of it, you'll see the atomizer is actually an R, and then there is Rds(on) those will form voltage division and you can tap it to get how much I (current) going through.. all that needs experimentations, get the feeling and... "think", something you cant do properly under the influence of excessive beers. doing that while posting in forum bit by bit as you go will not get you very far.. so slow down a bit, organize yourself and start writing down your objective and step by step plan in your experimentation.. and err, you thinking of diy an dso, save yourself buy an readymade one in 50-100MHz range instead of wasting lots of time and beers and repurchase... if you want to join the club at a reasonable pace...
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tec5c, I know what an atomizer is and I know how to spell it properly. The question asked was how do you plan to handle the atomiser end of the ecig. That's a pretty vague question. Was he referring to how will I attach it, how will I build one... I really didn't and still don't understand the question. tec5c, I've been into vaping for months now, yes I know what an atomizer is.
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afrotechmods videos are great I've watched a bunch of them over and over again. They have been a big help believe it or not. Daves are way more complex so I watch them more again and agains but eventually enough sinks in.
Thank you for contributing to my online electronics education.
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tec5c, I know what an atomizer is and I know how to spell it properly.
I suppose 'color' is correct, too.
Please don't be an ignorant dick.
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Dave does not specialize in basic theory. He's done some theory videos but his niche is in other matters.
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tec5c, I know what an atomizer is and I know how to spell it properly.
I suppose 'color' is correct, too.
Please don't be an ignorant dick.
I hope we are not going to have an argument over British versus American spelling of English ?
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tec5c, I know what an atomizer is and I know how to spell it properly.
I suppose 'color' is correct, too.
Please don't be an ignorant dick.
I hope we are not going to have an argument over British versus American spelling of English ?
No, merely over him attacking someone because he is too ignorant to realise there is a difference.
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Yeah I didn't realize like color and colour, there's a difference in the way we spell and the way you spell, but it's the same thing. My apologies. I'm not looking for an argument and I don't mean to bother anyone. I was just looking for help. Unfortunately it seems as though it has turned into an argument and it's really been pretty tough for me here to interact with such an intelligent group of folks due to my ignorance. I really enjoy watching eevblog videos on youtube. I think I'll just stick to that. In 10 years online learning everything that I have and chatting with all the folks that I have I can honestly say that I've never felt so unwelcome. There really is no need for any of you to waste your time responding to this post as I'll not be returning to read it.
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Nice job folks. Instead of welcoming a beginner, tackling his problem and trying to help him, and maybe even ourselves, actually to learn something, you've just driven him away by being soooo superior and righteous and even outright insulting. One wonders why these "superior" engineers are even bothering to hang out in the _Beginners_ section at all, if they neither want to teach or learn. It's pretty clear to me just who the real "dicks" are .... and bumba000 isn't one of them.
|O
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with all due respect, he seemed to be doing it all backwards, thrown crap together and then wondering why it did not work and trying to find out how it worked - or didn't. Thats not a savvy way to learn, I mean cmon a mosfet is not that hard to just read up about so at least you can ask a question that can be answered.
As soon as he did know something he got upset when he was told by someone who did not know wht he did or didn't know. I don't want to be funny but most of us were quite patient with him and i could see this comming. He should try some of the other forums out there......
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When it looks like a... smells like a ... and vapes like a... you know what it is. No need to confuse it with a beginner. Get back under the bridge!
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Nice job folks. Instead of welcoming a beginner, tackling his problem and trying to help him, and maybe even ourselves, actually to learn something, you've just driven him away by being soooo superior and righteous and even outright insulting. One wonders why these "superior" engineers are even bothering to hang out in the _Beginners_ section at all, if they neither want to teach or learn. It's pretty clear to me just who the real "dicks" are .... and bumba000 isn't one of them.
|O
Exactly. We all start somewhere, and bumba000 just started very differently than the others, which isn't bad but should be supported. But hey, I'm a beginner too, so I sympathise with him. |O
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Nice job folks. Instead of welcoming a beginner, tackling his problem and trying to help him, and maybe even ourselves, actually to learn something, you've just driven him away by being soooo superior and righteous and even outright insulting. One wonders why these "superior" engineers are even bothering to hang out in the _Beginners_ section at all, if they neither want to teach or learn. It's pretty clear to me just who the real "dicks" are .... and bumba000 isn't one of them.
|O
Exactly. We all start somewhere, and bumba000 just started very differently than the others, which isn't bad but should be supported. But hey, I'm a beginner too, so I sympathise with him. |O
Well I can't help it if he does not like the advice he got. How do you try and explain to a guy how to do something when you need to write him a 3 page essay first ? that's not what forums are for. At some point you have to read a book or a page on the internet. No education is not an eletist consiracy to keep some people out and no one is born a genius and just comes up with things (well some people "invent" digital clocks), you can get educated or educate yourself if you don't want to I can't see how you will design anything.
In many respects I'm a beginner (not a peice of paper to my name), but I do research and then ask for clarifications and advice on the best of a number of options, not throw something together with no clue of what I'm doing, then report the failed results and expect a lesson on how the fundamental part I used without having a clue about it works, that is not learning.
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Fair enough, that makes sense.
RIP bumba000, 2015-2015
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the guy is welcome back any time. He's the one that left and the one that had the attitude.
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Well I can't help it if he does not like the advice he got. How do you try and explain to a guy how to do something when you need to write him a 3 page essay first ? that's not what forums are for. At some point you have to read a book or a page on the internet. No education is not an eletist consiracy to keep some people out and no one is born a genius and just comes up with things (well some people "invent" digital clocks), you can get educated or educate yourself if you don't want to I can't see how you will design anything.
In many respects I'm a beginner (not a peice of paper to my name), but I do research and then ask for clarifications and advice on the best of a number of options, not throw something together with no clue of what I'm doing, then report the failed results and expect a lesson on how the fundamental part I used without having a clue about it works, that is not learning.
Exact elaboration of my frustration with this thread.
I could very easily see the guy being a first year engineering student, thinking they're going to be the next Zuckerberg or build an exact 1:1 human like robot, then mid semester throw in the towel because they struggle to understand the introductory content of an eng. degree. *Insert cliche saying* "You need to learn to walk before you can run". The list of students who I have seen fall into this category is astounding.
Instead of welcoming a beginner, tackling his problem and trying to help him...
His "problem" was tackled, it's the fact that he chose not to listen, which resulted in him having attitude... His concept of learning was completely wrong IMO, which is what Simon elaborated on.
Now hopefully we can let this thread see its inevitable death ;D
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OP should re-read the thread. The responses have been overwhelmingly positive to neutral, and some posters have gone above and beyond to help (look at alsetalokin4017's detailed explanations). But unfortunately OP chose to concentrate on the more critical posts and take offence. Come on bumba, focus on the positives, of which there is some even in the harsh criticisms!
I myself have used electronic so-called cigarettes (smokeless vaporisers) to quit smoking rollies and pipe tobacco, and have friends who've done likewise (some 30+ years smokers). These devices are very helpful for smokers wanting to quit and live 10-20 years longer.
There is a hobbyist aspect to vaping for some vapers. And some of these vapers become inclined to DIY their own hardware including the electronics. But most of that is done with very limited electronics knowledge and the vaping enthusiast/maker community has a lot of very vocal self-appointed electronics experts who are in fact clueless. Even most people in the industry are clueless or mediocre at best (except for a handful of German engineers). So OP's initial failure to make things work and confusions despite efforts to do research before implementation is understandable.
bumba000, you've come to the right place if you want to learn about electronics. Forget the vapers (there are smart ones among them but they are drowned out by loud mouthed clueless know-it-alls).
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OP should re-read the thread. The responses have been overwhelmingly positive to neutral, and some posters have gone above and beyond to help (look at alsetalokin4017's detailed explanations). But unfortunately OP chose to concentrate on the more critical posts and take offence. Come on bumba, focus on the positives, of which there is some even in the harsh criticisms!
I myself have used electronic so-called cigarettes (smokeless vaporisers) to quit smoking rollies and pipe tobacco, and have friends who've done likewise (some 30+ years smokers). These devices are very helpful for smokers wanting to quit and live 10-20 years longer.
There is a hobbyist aspect to vaping for some vapers. And some of these vapers become inclined to DIY their own hardware including the electronics. But most of that is done with very limited electronics knowledge and the vaping enthusiast/maker community has a lot of very vocal self-appointed electronics experts who are in fact clueless. Even most people in the industry are clueless or mediocre at best (except for a handful of German engineers). So OP's initial failure to make things work and confusions despite efforts to do research before implementation is understandable.
bumba000, you've come to the right place if you want to learn about electronics. Forget the vapers (there are smart ones among them but they are drowned out by loud mouthed clueless know-it-alls).
In short: Don't let the(http://ichef.bbci.co.uk/naturelibrary/images/ic/credit/640x395/g/gr/great_bustard/great_bustard_1.jpg)'s grind you down.
That's a Great Bustard BTW
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That's one handsome Bustard!
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My idea of a great looking bastard... Yay? nay? :-DD :-DD
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My idea of a great looking bastard... Yay? nay? :-DD :-DD
And I thought we were talking about bustards, silly me.
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Whoops, slight slip there. :palm:
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so what is a bustard ? a bird ?
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so what is a bustard ? a bird ?
If not then tron9000's post is disturbing :P
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just thought I'd check before i missed something. You know some of us don't mind asking questions and being told answers :-+
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Does this count as a bustard? :-DD
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uh better let someone more knowledgeable than me identify that "thing" :-DD
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Does this count as a bustard? :-DD
You've got it all wrong I'm afraid.
This is the true definition of a bustard...
(http://i61.tinypic.com/30a9n61.jpg)
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that bustards got some bad attitude! it only goes up to 6!
Yes, a Bustard is a bird! (former young member of the RSPB and Boy Scout! ;D)
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Yes, a Bustard is a bird! (former young member of the RSPB and Boy Scout! ;D)
Well with those credentials I can only but trust you :-X
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And a bastard is a file as I first learned in metalwork class back in the '80s. Of course a bastard is a fatherless child too. And a ginger bastard... :palm:
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And a bastard is a file as I first learned in metalwork class back in the '80s.
Exactly! You get it ;)
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Hey Bumba000,
Really hope this isn't you, but do take heed: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/man-in-coma-e-cig-lithium-batt-explosion/msg787723/#new (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/man-in-coma-e-cig-lithium-batt-explosion/msg787723/#new)
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I have a few half round bastards....
Funny thing is that the cut of a file is not defines as in the number of cuts per unit length, but is described as a proportion of the overall length of the active face. Thus a 150mm bastard is a coarser cut than a 100mm bastard.
Unfortunately some of my favourite files are somewhat worn, to the point where the bastard is pretty much a smooth.
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boy this topic has taken a massive tangent!
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boy this topic has taken a massive tangent!
That's a good thing, right? :scared:
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crispy_tofu, I swear your post counter goes up by a factor of at least 50 each day.
Just thought I'd continue along this tangent line even further... O0
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Files -> bustards -> e-cigs
we should have a game called name that thread, where you guess the thread topic by the last post!
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crispy_tofu, I swear your post counter goes up by a factor of at least 50 each day.
Uhhhhhhh
Files -> bustards -> e-cigs
we should have a game called name that thread, where you guess the thread topic by the last post!
Okay, mitochondria is the powerhouse of the cell.
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http://www.newcastle-mitochondria.com/mitochondria/what-do-mitochondria-do/ (http://www.newcastle-mitochondria.com/mitochondria/what-do-mitochondria-do/)
I SAID THREAD! don't cheat!
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The name of the guy who is now in hospital after the e-cig exploded is Evan.
Bumba signed his posts with the name John... Was a little concerned there for a minute after seeing his circuit diagrams earlier on.
This is why I said it was not a good project for a beginner to start off with! :rant: