Electronics > Beginners

Atari 2600 resoldering skills

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Rerouter:
The lighting your working under does not seem to be helping things, looks like cheap LED lighting which is coming up purple / red in pictures,

The latest pictures need more flux, not sure if your solder is quite old or what, but those joints still don't look clean,

Tricks to remember:
Solder flows to the heat source, you want the iron above a joint to add solder and below it to remove (assuming held at some angle so gravity helps)
Most impurities will float on top of the solder, as such you may need to attack a joint from more than 1 angle to flow it off the joint and to the iron where you can clean it.
If you suspect the original solder was lead free, try to remove as much as possible before adding new solder to the joint
Gel flux syringes are pretty much easy mode, if a joint looks ugly, add a tiny amount and reheat the joint and most times it will turn clean and shiny,

WyverntekGameRepairs:

--- Quote from: MyHeadHz on December 29, 2019, 05:36:26 am ---In the first picture in the first post, are some of the bigger traces separating from the board?

--- End quote ---

Nope, they are all intact.


--- Quote from: Rerouter on December 29, 2019, 05:55:51 am ---The lighting your working under does not seem to be helping things, looks like cheap LED lighting which is coming up purple / red in pictures,

The latest pictures need more flux, not sure if your solder is quite old or what, but those joints still don't look clean,

Tricks to remember:
Solder flows to the heat source, you want the iron above a joint to add solder and below it to remove (assuming held at some angle so gravity helps)
Most impurities will float on top of the solder, as such you may need to attack a joint from more than 1 angle to flow it off the joint and to the iron where you can clean it.
If you suspect the original solder was lead free, try to remove as much as possible before adding new solder to the joint
Gel flux syringes are pretty much easy mode, if a joint looks ugly, add a tiny amount and reheat the joint and most times it will turn clean and shiny,

--- End quote ---

All joints are clean and shiny. They are so shiny they are reflecting the environment around them. As for the latest pictures, it is almost the same deal, though my rosin core solder was probably exhibiting the thinning of flux that can occur from time to time. I’m going over the joints one more time with a loupe, and fixing any joints that were affected by the thin-flux solder issue using some better solder. And yes, I always remove LF solder completely, first with a sucker and then with a braid, before putting the (wonderful) leaded solder on the joint.

I also always ensure there is no dirt or debris floating around in my joint. That stuff can cause cracks and bad solder joints very easily if it is bad enough. It is best to assume that dirty solder joints are bad.

:)

SmallCog:
If you haven't seen this it's an excellent reference for lots of things, including how a solder joint should look

https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/frameset.html

Even if you have seen it, maybe someone else looking for soldering examples will find this useful.

TERRA Operative:
Ooh, soldering thread!

What do you all think of my crappy efforts? (I think I have a habit of using just a tiny bit too much solder, maybe I should use thinner solder..)
I don't often get the chance to have someone look at my stuff.  :-/O

Rerouter:
Soldering looks fine in those joints, If its a PCB you designed though, increase the pad size for those caps next time, that is a lot of mass to swing off such small pads,

And yes 0.71mm solder makes a lot of things much easier to work with, I would be annoyed if i had to do SMD rework with 1mm,

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