Update:Sorry for the delay, I waited on posting this until I could proof-read and edit it.
I ended up getting a Tektronix 2246 Mod A for $100 locally, and from what I can tell it appears to be fully functioning or very nearly so. According to the seller, it had sat in storage since 1994. As a bonus, the seller threw in a HP 200CD Oscillator for free, which he would have otherwise thrown out. The oscillator doesn't appear to be functioning, and he said it'd had a tumble, so I guess that can be my first valve device repair victim. For starters, the power cord needs replacing. Someone floated it...
I appreciate everyone who gave feedback, I tried to take it all into consideration during the buying process. Below I'm including a list of various quotes from this thread and how they factored in or related to the process, mostly in hopes that the consolidation will be useful for anyone who happens upon this thread later.
Evaluating the condition:Another one to check for before purchase is the availability of the manual (for common ones like the 2246 they are online but for exotic ones this might not be the case) as those includes the schematic and checklists/repair guidelines.
This was one of the first things I checked when I saw the scope listing come up, since from this and other discussions on the forum and the TekScopes group it seemed that old test equipment needs some caring for from time to time. I passed on some better priced scope listings specifically because I had issues finding operator or service manuals.
The most common issue in old scopes are aging capacitors and worn dials.
Yeah, the one I got needs a little cleaning of the potentiometers. I did managed to break a plastic knob during removal for cleaning, but some epoxy fixed that well enough. I've had a quick peek inside, though not a very thorough one, and I didn't see any obviously faulty caps nor any RIFA suprises. I did catch a glimpse of some motorola "ZM" diodes however, which from what I've read so far are candidate #1 for preemptive repair. I'll be looking into a possible pre-emptive recap as well.
Overall those old scopes are nearly indestructible and easy to repair so even if you find an issue just price it in.
Ease of repair was a definite factor in deciding on a scope, and one of the reasons I didn't follow up on a 2445A listing. It could be working, but for a first scope I don't want to risk U800 issues. If I join TEA then maybe... Before buying, I also checked both this forum and TekScopes for reports on issues that others had with the 2246, to make sure I knew what I'd likely need to repair and that there wasn't any failure prone unobtainium inside.
The quickest check would be firing it up and probing the square wave or ramp (some analog scopes have that), playing with the knobs to see all the adjustments are working:
- min/max is in the right place
- smooth/no jumping on the knobs
I played with the knobs to see that they had an effect, though I didn't know what all of them did at the time. I used the beam finder to show a basic grounded trace on all the channels, and pushed relevant looking buttons until the B sweep was configured the same as the A sweep and showing a trace. I also messed with the knobs until I was convinced that the B sweep could display a signal across the entire width of the screen. Since it was originally set with non-zero delay and auto-level triggering it was only showing a trace on part of the screen, which confused me at first.
- don't forget to test all voltage/time ranges and AC coupling
The probes I was going to use from the seller to test things ended up being lost somewhere among three storage containers, so the only signal tests I did were with a multimeter probe acting like an antenna. I did try some other stuff with a 9 volt and also my DMM's resistance setting (as a current source), however at that time I still hadn't realized that I had the coupling set to "ground". When I was trying the antenna test lead I realized this, and was relieved to suddenly see EM noise from the antenna being displayed. This also indicated to me that the DC coupling worked on at least Ch 1. I may have also messed with the AC coupling too just to make sure it would switch over and show a trace.
With those analog oscilloscopes always look at the brightness setting.
The brightness looked good too. A quarter turn on the intensity was bright enough for use, so it seems the CRT isn't that worn.
Spend some time understanding the on screen annunciators, they’re extensive on that scope. Check that they track the different selections such as vertical voltage per div, time, 1/time, delta time, etc.
Out of respect for the seller's time, I didn't thoroughly test all of the readout related features. I mostly just checked that when I turned a knob the readout matched this with the appropriate changes to the Volts/Div and Sec/Div, that the focus control worked. When I was messing with the B sweep I was also able to see the readout showing other relevant info. I think I checked to see if the menu showed up too but no in-depth exploration of it.
For a sub hundred buck used scope* just make sure you get a trace and can view a calibration waveform on all channels, a reasonably sharp and bright trace can be had without maxing out any controls, and fiddle with it a bit while subtly watching for nervous behavior from the seller. Unless you know the guy it's kinda rude to spend a hour or more checking everything for such a low buck transaction.
That ended up being the gist of what I did. Your post and the others that advocated for managing my expectations of used equipment helped me adopt an appropriate mindset. Prior to that I think I may have been expecting too much. The meetup with the seller actually ended up being around an hour, though most of that was just chatting with the seller and him showing off his collection of electronics stuff (I think I saw an old scope labeled "Pacific Bell"?). Actual testing time was a fraction of that.
CRO & DSO trade offs:Don’t get too enamored with old crt based scopes, they may be fun to learn some basics with but the functionality compared to a modern digital scope is night and day. Add in the portability and noise levels and a modern digital scope wins in every category every time.
I've definitely had fun learning the scope so far, and using it to look at PWM signals for Arduino and Pi has been enlightening. I'm also getting a better idea of the limitations of CROs (mainly the lack of sophisticated recording and analysis functions), however I don't think I'll hit any walls because of that for a good while, so I should have plenty of time to save for a decent DSO. I ended up going with a CRO instead of a DSO because the price was good enough (counting the oscillator as part of the purchase) and while I may have wanted some of the DSO features like a computer interface, I don't really need them and the lack of them wasn't a deal breaker. That, and forgoing the DSO for now means I have some budget room for non-scope stuff like the components for a small project.
I don't see the problem with starting with an analog scope. It's IMHO a good way how to start, especially if you can buy some advanced one for a good money. But ultimately, it all deppends on the application.
For amps and audio stuff, analog is still great and might be even better than some cheap DSOs. For debugging digital circuits (Arduino, robotics) it's good to have a DSO, because you want to be able to check non repeating signals (like communication on any bus). There are ways around this (like changing the program to generate trigger signals), but they are almost always pain in the...
If you are debugging digital waveforms, then use a digital domain tool such as a logic analyser. Basic ones are remarkably cheap, and more expensive ones can be much more effective than a scope.
I also pulled the trigger on a $9 saleae clone, which in conjunction with the CRO should cover just about everything I'm doing with Arduino's and RPi's, at least for now.
In which case, if I probe a DC source like a AAA battery with the scope AC coupled, then I shouldn't see anything other then a zeroed out signal right?
Correct. Doing that same thing with a power supply can show the ripple and noise of the supply.
Spend some time understanding the on screen annunciators, they’re extensive on that scope. Check that they track the different selections such as vertical voltage per div, time, 1/time, delta time, etc.
Don’t get too enamored with old crt based scopes, they may be fun to learn some basics with but the functionality compared to a modern digital scope is night and day. Add in the portability and noise levels and a modern digital scope wins in every category every time.
Don’t spend more than $50-$75 on such a scope. That money would be best added to upgrades and accessories for a modern scope. Remember that an analog scope cannot display a one shot event, the signal you’re examining must be continuous/repetitive. For what is dead easy to do today with a modern digital scope, required a rather expensive and not so common “storage” scope back in the day.
That said, many analog 'scopes with a storage function spent almost their entire, very productive, lives with the storage function used maybe two or three times.
In much work, displaying a "one shot" event is a rare requirement, whereas in other activities it is an everyday thing.
The important question is, what will the OP use the Oscilloscope for?
For right now, I'm looking at just audio work (valve guitar amps and effects pedals) and digital stuff with Arduino and RPi's. Unless I missed something, I won't be hampered by the lack of storage for quite a while. Even when I do need storage capabilities, projects like this one should cover a lot of it:
https://hackaday.io/project/171961-a-digital-camera-for-analog-oscilloscopesPricing:Don’t spend more than $50-$75 on such a scope. That money would be best added to upgrades and accessories for a modern scope. Remember that an analog scope cannot display a one shot event, the signal you’re examining must be continuous/repetitive. For what is dead easy to do today with a modern digital scope, required a rather expensive and not so common “storage” scope back in the day.
For a sub hundred buck used scope* [. . .]
*Any more and you're likely better off saving your pennies for a new DSO, between the feature set and questionable dependability of aging test gear. At some point you end up more of an oscilloscope repairer than user, not fun if it isn't your intent.
You can do all the testing you want--and you should--but in the end your best bet is to get as good a deal as you can on the least beat-looking scope possible and hope for the best.
I think I compromised a little on pricing, paying $100 instead of the recommended $75 max. I did pay $1/MHz though, so bang-on what the recommended CRO pricing seems to be. Given that I didn't have to pay for shipping, I was able to evaluate it before buying, I got a free oscillator that I can at least sell for parts if not repair, the scope appeared to be in good condition, the last 2246 sold in three days flat, and $100 seemed to be about the ebay price floor, I was okay with a bit more than the recommended price ceiling. Now that I've had it for a couple days and can see that it definitely does appear to be functioning well (I haven't done a performance test yet though, and still need to recap and re-diode), I don't think I'll have much of an issue getting my money back later if, worst case scenario, I need to sell it to finance a DSO in the future. Hopefully I won't need to though.
Final thoughts:Thanks to everyone who contributed, both through posts and DMs. I now have a functioning 4-channel 100MHz scope + a valve-based oscillator to practice working on before moving to guitar amps.
Edit June 28, 2021, 12:18:18 am
So the 2246 was sold to someone else a little earlier while I was replying to this thread . I'm still considering other CRO options and appreciate further advice on evaluating them, however I'm also going to be seriously considering the option of just getting an entry DSO and putting off any other non-essential expenses for a while.
Don't worry: there will be another one along soon
Do worry: get the right class of probe for you applications, and understand how to use them without blowing up your scope/equipment or yourself.
Do worry: the cost of probes can be non-trivial!
It looks like I'll need to get a higher-voltage (around 1kV?) probe at some point for checking waveforms on valve pins. A decent one from probemaster looks to be around $90, so yeah non-trivial indeed. Because I didn't go with a DSO though, I should have room in the budge later if I end up needing such a probe. I'm going to wait until I have a measurement I can't make without it before getting one though. Depending on the state of the oscillator, that may end up being soon.
Before working on the oscillator though, I'm going to build a TS808 clone as a budget compromise between guitar and electronics and to get more experience with low-energy circuits before learning high-voltage valve stuff. I plan to use the scope to better understand the circuit, and to mod it. Thanks again for all your help and input!
Edit at July 12, 2021, 1:30:38 amFixed the formatting on one of the paragraphs, lines are not hardwrapped at 80 columns now.