How much do you have to spend to get a good crimping tool?

[theleakydiode]

For things like faston, uninsulated spade, ferrule and that sort of thing how much does one need to spend on a crimping tool to get something which produces production quality crimps? My cheap crimper is a bit hit or miss at times, but you get what you pay for.

Looking online there's a huge price range for the same types of crimps from £10 to £100+!

I know I probably need a ratcheting type, but looking at videos on the internet even those can differ in the end result. I'm a hobbyist but occasionally dabble with fixing things for people or very basic automotive electronics.

[deadlylover]

You have to match the tool to the crimp terminal. If you look at the terminal datasheet they will always list a range of tools that you can use.

I like the AMP/TE Connectivity PIDG terminals. The tools to search for are the 47386(22-16awg), 47387 (16-14awg) and the 59250 (both previous sizes in one tool).

If you are patient you can find them for very cheap second hand, I think I've paid around ~USD30 each on average for them, and they retail in the hundreds to USD1400 range depending on the tool.

So those are the "endgame" tools that you should have an eBay search saved for. It took me a couple of years to finally acquire my set.

Speaking of eBay searches, it's good to chuck the big names on there like Molex, Panduit, JST. You never know what you'll find.

In the meantime I think for a hobbyist, it's more useful to have a frame with dies so you can do a large variety of crimps. The Pressmaster MCT is one example, I know it's rebranded with different names(sometimes cheaper) so if you search the forum I think you'll find it quickly.

I just have the standard Pressmaster insulated terminal crimper and it's okay. Definitely a step above the $20 cheap ratchet tools but it's still a toy compared to the big boys.

[cliffyk]

Here in the Colonies we have an "imported good tools for less outlet" known as Harbor Freight, they offer this ratcheting tool for Faston type terminals, for USD$14.99, it produces VERY good full-compression crimps.

I suspect that Amazon or some similar outlet "over there, 'cross the pond" has a comparable tool:



MY mum was a "war bride" from Sweffling, Suffolk.

[rx8pilot]

I cannot bring myself to support Harbor Freight for any reason. Purveyors of bottom feeder manufacturing. Horrible.


I am, however, like the OP looking to understand the performance differences between crimpers found on eBay/Amazon/Harbor Freight and the genuine Molex or TE models. The price difference is enormous and I am needed 3-4 different types (don't have years to spend searching the bowels of eBay for used).

TE ferrule crimper: $340 USD
Pseudo branded Amazon ferrule crimper: $20

Similar $$ differences with other types of crimp tools. I have a few OEM crimp tools for various connectors. They were really expensive, but work perfect every time. What I am looking at now is $1,000 vs maybe $80. How bad is the experience with the cheap stuff?

[TimNJ]

For standard insulated ring and faston terminals, I've had very good success with the non-ratcheting type. I think the ratcheting types are great for production-line repeatability, that is, to apply exactly the same crimping force every time. I've used the AMP/TE ratcheting crimp tool on a production line. I've made thousands of connections. They work very well. But they are $500.

On the other hand, I've had equally good success (at home) with good quality non-ratcheting types. I own the Greenlee. Do not own the Klein but have used it. They are well made, and the crimp quality is good. The only difference is: You have to decide how hard to squeeze.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/greenlee-communications/KP1022D/KP1022D-ND/3980252

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/klein-tools-inc/J1005/1742-1351-ND/6803549

I'd just stay away from the super cheap 37-in-1 crimp, strip, cut, bolt cutter combo tools that are made from thin stamped steel. The forged ones have a wider crimping area which usually leads to a better connection.

I only ever use faston and ring, so if you want to make other crimp connections, perhaps one of those cheap ratcheting types with interchangeable dies are good, but if you're limited to faston, ring, etc., then you might be better off with good quality non-ratcheting.

[cliffyk]

There are two basic sorts of non-ratcheting crimpers, the "staking" and the "squashing" types:



THe squashing type is horrid, calling it a crimping tool is an insult to all other crimpers.

Though as i have a proper full compression tool--admittedly purchased from the devil himself¹--I would not use either:



----------------------------------------
¹ - I am somewhat bemused by the vitiolic response re: Harbor Freight--last I knew no one was being forced to buy there. It is true that thy sell some real crap, however they also sell some pretty decent stuff too. Both my mini-lathe and mill came from HF:





Both very capable tools, once cleaned, re-lubed, and fine tuned...

[TimNJ]

There are two basic sorts of non-ratcheting crimpers, the "staking" and the "squashing" types:



THe squashing type is horrid, calling it a crimping tool is an insult to all other crimpers.

Though as i have a proper full compression tool--admittedly purchased from the devil himself¹--I would not use either:

For my own edification, can you tell me what you think is so horrid about the squashing type? In my experience, the squashing type is used for insulated terminals, and the staking for non-insulated. I've done many hearty pull tests with both styles of crimp and never have had any issues.

Again, this is with a forged type pliers, not the stamped metal type.

[TimNJ]

For instance,

[cliffyk]

[

For my own edification, can you tell me what you think is so horrid about the squashing type? In my experience, the squashing type is used for insulated terminals, and the staking for non-insulated. I've done many hearty pull tests with both styles of crimp and never have had any issues.

Again, this is with a forged type pliers, not the stamped metal type.

The cheap stamped squashing type (as shown in my photo) squeezes the terminal's ferrule over very little area, and in my experience with that specific type as shown does not produce any substantive melding of the ferrule and wire as it just mushes it all up into a sloppy crescent--this is especially so if the wire is too small for the chosen terminal. Thy perform especially poorly with insulated terminals.

I have seen forged "squashers" that are not too bad, however in the presence of a "staker" or full compression tool I would not use one. With a "staker I have found it important to align the stake with the solid backside of the less expensive terminals wit the folded formed ferrule--not the split side, as that just opens up the split and results in a very poor crimp.

With full compression tools plentifully and inexpensively available ($15 to $20 on Amazon if you'd rather not deal with the devil) that's my "go-tool". To crimp insulated terminals I would use no other--though in critical or high-current applications I usually remove the insulation before crimping and followup with some heat shrink tubing if needed.

A solid, firm high-pressure compression crimp will fuse the wire to itself and the terminal's ferrule. I have a 10-ton hydraulic tool I generally use with 6 ga. or heavier wire that does quite literally weld the wire and terminal when used with a good, tight die.

In the end tools, any and all, are just what my grandfather always told us; "...only as good as their operator."

[rx8pilot]

With the availability of low-cost ratcheting crimps - not sure why anyone is using the non-ratcheting type.

Still trying to figure out if the $340 Tyco crimp tools are made on the same line as the $25 tools that are sold on Amazon. To my untrained eye - they all look the same but my engineering self tells me there are subtle differences that could be significant to the end result.

For hooking up a car stereo in your kids 20 year old Honda Civic - it may not matter. However, for jobs that are critical.....can the low-cost crimps deliver success?

[cliffyk]

I have been using the set I got from Beelzebub for over 10 years, often on higher than rated current applications like the damned Honda bikes that run the main system feed (60-70 A) through 12 ga. wire and a 1/4" spade connector. In that application (I replace the OEM crap with Faston connectors)  they are better than the factory crimps, never had one come back...

[TimNJ]

With the availability of low-cost ratcheting crimps - not sure why anyone is using the non-ratcheting type.

Still trying to figure out if the $340 Tyco crimp tools are made on the same line as the $25 tools that are sold on Amazon. To my untrained eye - they all look the same but my engineering self tells me there are subtle differences that could be significant to the end result.

For hooking up a car stereo in your kids 20 year old Honda Civic - it may not matter. However, for jobs that are critical.....can the low-cost crimps deliver success?

Well, you're probably right at this point. Last time I tried the cheap ratcheting crimps was about 10 years ago. I just remember them being not very smooth, tendency to jam, etc. But now I see crimp tools with thousands of 5-star ratings on Amazon, so I guess they're okay now?

Only thing I can think of (in favor of forged, non-ratcheting crimps) is that they are bulletproof. Ratcheting crimp tools need springs and gears, and a few other bits and pieces to work. I feel they are intrinsically less reliable, but that may be a moot point, given the price.

[eblc1388]

I think the important point is that the material to be crimped must be confined and prevented from expanding sideway. The forged crimper shown above does show much smaller gaps on each side of the crimp and probably can do a good job than the cheap squashing types.
 

[David Hess]

I have collected a couple of the stamped type dedicated crimpers for things like Molex pins, and a Greenlee ratcheting crimper for Ethernet connectors, but bought a Paladin CrimpALL ratcheting crimper (now owned by Greenlee) for coaxial connectors which I really like:

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-CrimpALL-Crimper-Frame-PA8000/dp/B000VH1OVG

[wraper]

These crimpers are for different types of connectors. Top is for non-insulated, bottom for insulated connectors. So such comparison is nonsensical. And I've seen insulated connectors crimped with staking type, done by some idiots. Needless to say I could pull the wire out of large part of them without much effort.

There are two basic sorts of non-ratcheting crimpers, the "staking" and the "squashing" types:

[cliffyk]

Enough about tools, here are some empirical results of using the three styles of crimpers I have on 14 ga. wire and "blue" (16--14 ga. recommended)  1/4' spade terminals--I also threw in a "ringer", my "finest kind" tool i use for non-insulated terminals (or after removing the insulation):

all four (left to right, squashed, staked, full compression, the "ringer")--what I will call the "top" side...


all four (left to right, squashed, staked, full compression, the "ringer")--what I will call the "back" side...


the three insulated terminals--insulation removed (left to right, squashed, staked, full compression)-- "top" side...


insulated terminals--insulation removed (left to right, squashed, staked, full compression)-- "back" side...


Note: I could have better positioned the "stake", but it looked OK with the insulation on.

Micrographs of all:

squashed (top)...


squashed (back)...


staked (top)...


staked (back)...


full compression (top)...


full compression (back)...


"ringer" (top)...


"ringer" (back)...



So, what is the "ringer" you ask?

It's a tool made for non-insulated MC4 barrel connectors commonly used in solar panel installations:



It makes the prettiest, most secure crimps of any hand-held tool I have--throw some heat shrink tubing on this puppy and never worry about it, ever again...


And--just for the sake of completeness--here is what the 10-ton hydraulic swager does to a 6 ga. ring terminal:

[wraper]

All of 3 crimps are complete and utter garbage. One on the left had connector improperly rotated in the tool. In the middle crimped with wrong tool. On the right, connector improperly rotated and improperly positioned in crimper by length. Not to say it's even resulted in cracked metal. Edit: on second thought might be damaged during insulation removal. Garbage crimp nonetheless.

[cliffyk]

All of 3 crimps are complete and utter garbage. One on the left had connector improperly rotated in the tool. In the middle crimped with wrong tool. On the right, connector improperly rotated and improperly positioned in crimper by length. Not to say it's even resulted in cracked metal. Edit: on second might be damaged during insulation removal. Garbage crimp nonetheless.

What do you feel is the proper orientation for each tool; inverted from what I did, or with the split "sideways"?

Photos?

[wraper]

What do you feel is the proper orientation for each tool; inverted from what I did, or with the split "sideways"?

It should be aligned in a way that top/bottom of the connector is matched with top/bottom of the tool. Rotation from that position should be avoided as much as possible. In 3rd case plastic part should be positioned right in the middle of the tool. Not protruding from either side of it.

[wraper]

Pictures.

[cliffyk]

What do you feel is the proper orientation for each tool; inverted from what I did, or with the split "sideways"?

It should be aligned in a way that top/bottom of the connector is matched with top/bottom of the tool. Rotation from that position should be avoided as much as possible. In 3rd case plastic part should be positioned right in the middle of the tool. Not protruding from either side of it.

That is pretty much as I did, however I did take any extraordinary precaution to prevent the metal terminals from rolling within the sleeve while performing the crimp. Crimping metal through a plastic sleeve is not a sensible thing to do--I.e. I agree all three crimps performed in that manner are garbage..

With the terminals I have the rearmost 0.1" or so of the insulation is intended to be strain relief, the metal ferrule of the terminal is only 2/3rd's the length of the plastic. Centering the insulation in the tool would result in just 1/2 or so of the ferrule being crimped. In any event since obtaining the MC4 tool I have abandoned using insulated terminals for any critical application...

[wraper]

Crimping metal through a plastic sleeve is not a sensible thing to do--I.e. I agree all three crimps performed in that manner are garbage..

Look at my crimp I've done just now.

[cliffyk]

Pictures.

Your tool has very nice wide jaws...

[wraper]

BTW in 3rd case did you use a blue die? Asking because it seems as if die of larger size was used. Or connectors you have are of reduced outer diameter. Molex makes those and probably some others too.

[cliffyk]

BTW in 3rd case did you use a blue die? Asking because it seems as if die of larger size was used. Or connectors you have are of reduced outer diameter. Molex makes those and probably some others too.

Yes, it was the "blue" notch in the tool--though it is a 10+ year-old tool. I am not as tightly assembled as I was 10 years ago...

[wraper]

Usually they have force adjustment. IMHO should be adjusted for tighter crimps. Might look like this due to misalignment though. As the place on connector where force should be applied was locate where die has a gap in it.

[cliffyk]

Usually they have force adjustment. IMHO should be adjusted for tighter crimps. Might look like this due to misalignment though. As the place on connector where force should be applied was locate where die has a gap in it.

That may be it... I am 83 with severe arthritis (and Parkinson's on top of that), so I have backed off the force adjustment a notch and a half or so. Hell at my age if something lasts just 5 years the good news is it's not going to be my problem... 

[Monkeh]

For added points, here's an example from my set of cheap ratchet crimpers.





It suffices. Don't mind the slice down the middle (proper copper crimp, obviously..).

This is about a £20 tool. Those Knipex are about £100.

[wraper]

This is about a £20 tool. Those Knipex are about £100.

That knipex costs around $200 (ex VAT) but it comes with 5 rapidly interchangeable dies. So it's like having 5 separate crimpers.

[Siwastaja]

As a general note, crimping is being touted (for good reasons) as the most mechanically and electrically reliable connecting strategy.

But, there lies a huge trap: with crimping, the devil really is in the details, everything has to be just right. Sometimes you even get a result that looks decent but once you try to pull it, you'll see it isn't properly crimped. Such poor crimp is way worse than an average solder job.

Hence, for most connectors, the only really reliable way is to only buy decent crimps, which come with a datasheet, which lists the manufacturer-specific crimping tool; which typically costs around $500 for the manual version and much more for the automated. Combination tools or cheap tools that do all sort of crimp connectors like many different JST sizes are IMHO not worth a penny. I solder these connectors instead when I need to one-off a prototype.

The classic automotive blade connectors as shown in this thread are hit-or-miss; you get the crimps from dozens of manufacturers, all slightly different, and find dozens of tools, all slightly different. Your best bet is to stick to well-known brands (like the Knipex as shown) and do frequent quality control by pulling quite hard on the wires.

[Monkeh]

This is about a £20 tool. Those Knipex are about £100.

That knipex costs around $200 (ex VAT) but it comes with 5 rapidly interchangeable dies. So it's like having 5 separate crimpers.

Ah, I thought it was the basic model. Still, the dies are equivalent so for the single-application tool the comparison is still valid.

So real-world pricing for the MultiCrimp about £300 in the UK, £250 from the continent while that's still viable.

If you really want to be positive, the Knipex are worth the money. These cheap ones required adjustment. In both cases it's critical to source decent quality terminals - end up with thin ones, steel ones, and so forth, and you'll get bad results with any tool.

[wraper]

So real-world pricing for the MultiCrimp about £300 in the UK, £250 from the continent while that's still viable.

If you really want to be positive, the Knipex are worth the money. These cheap ones required adjustment. In both cases it's critical to source decent quality terminals - end up with thin ones, steel ones, and so forth, and you'll get bad results with any tool.

https://www.conrad.com/p/knipex-multicrimp-97-33-02-crimper-non-insulated-open-end-connectors-insulated-cable-lugs-insulated-connectors-ferru-821056
Dunno if Conrad ships to UK. But it has about the same price at some other places.

[mansaxel]

Dunno if Conrad ships to UK. But it has about the same price at some other places.

In my experience Conrad is constantly overpriced, at least on tools and electric/electronic parts. With only modest effort on your favourite search engine you are going to find same/similar or better parts and tools at much nicer prices otherwhere.

In Sweden, we frequently use  "Crimpex" or "Elpress" crimpers, made here. Look much like the others (I'm uncertain who copied who, except that I know for a fact that Elpress has been around for over 30 years; I used one for the first time in the summer of 1990.) I've got a RG58 and RG59 crimper from Crimpex. Works really well. Also a large 10mm² and up crimper from Elpress, which is really good on battery terminals et c. My insulated red/blue/yellow crimper is a noname tool, but works. It's got the wide jaws and makes a really tight crimp with quality terminals.  Another nonamer is my tool for uninsulated terminals. It is quite tedious to get everything right with it, but crimps done right are tight and solid.

One thing is certain; crimping tools is a money sink hole, especially if you want things like verification or traceability.

[Zeyneb]

So what I could add to what already has been said. Is that for crimping pliers with replaceable dies you might wanna check if the available dies cover a significant range of things you might want to crimp with. Right now I received the Phoenix Contact CRIMPFOX-M (which is actually based on a design of Pressmaster product MCT frame) and there is a crimping die for the right angle flag terminals with 8mm width quick-connects. These are used for H4 headlight sockets in cars. These are a bit unusual as most of the flag terminals are 6.3 mm in width. So I do think I made a good purchase with the CRIMPFOX-M, because I do think I would have a need for some other other die in the future.

[wraper]

In my experience Conrad is constantly overpriced, at least on tools and electric/electronic parts. With only modest effort on your favourite search engine you are going to find same/similar or better parts and tools at much nicer prices otherwhere.

For this particular tool they are among the cheapest. It's even cheaper on amazon.de

[cliffyk]

Pictures.

These are the terminals I use most often, they are from Gardner-Bender, and sold by a local supply house packaged in 100, 250 and 500 piece boxes at a reasonable cost.



As you can see 1/2 the length of the insulation provides a collar to minimize flexing of the wire at the wire/ferrule interface. Centering the insulation in the crimping tool would not provide proper assembly with these terminals.

[wraper]

As you can see 1/2 the length of the insulation provides a collar to minimize flexing of the wire at the wire/ferrule interface. Centering the insulation in the crimping tool would not provide proper assembly with these terminals.

There are 2 crimping points. One to crimp metal part and second to crimp insulation. Look at my crimp and you'll see it needs to be crimped at both ends. And tools are either made to crimp both sides simultaneously in single operation or you need to crimp each of the sides separately with narrow non ratcheting crimpers. What you've done is improperly positioning connector in ratcheting crimper which crimps both sides.

[wraper]

[cliffyk]

As you can see 1/2 the length of the insulation provides a collar to minimize flexing of the wire at the wire/ferrule interface. Centering the insulation in the crimping tool would not provide proper assembly with these terminals.

There are 2 crimping points. One to crimp metal part and second to crimp insulation. Look at my crimp and you'll see it needs to be crimped at both ends. And tools are either made to crimp both sides simultaneously in single operation or you need to crimp each of the sides separately with narrow non ratcheting crimpers. What you've done is improperly positioning connector in ratcheting crimper which crimps both sides.





Well crap. I guess it's true--you never are too old to learn--how's this?

[wraper]

Well crap. I guess it's true--you never are too old to learn--how's this?

Looks fine.

[wizard69]

After years of using them I really have no love for insulated crimp ring and spade terminals.   If at all possible use the non insulated variety and apply shrink tubing afterwards if needed.

One of the better low cost crimpers that I've used is the Sta-Kon WT111M: https://www.grainger.com/product/STA-KON-9-5-8-inL-Crimper-3KH45.    This crimper has been in production for years, probably decades.    It is fine for lighter barrels but really requires two hands when used to full capacity.

As for insulated terminal and my hate for them, it is largely due to failures on equipment installed at the plant.   Since the variety here is pretty large I don't see it a a poor workmanship problem on one assemblers part.   Rather it is a couple of things.   #1. Insulated terminals do not allow for visual inspection.  #2 the deformed insulation seemingly wants to fall off over time.   This makes the actual insulating qualities of insulated terminals highly debatable.    #3.  The electromechanical quality of the crimps with insulated terminals is extremely variable.   This seems to hold true even with the ""proper"" tool.

So if higher quality (generally higher current) connections are required I prefer the uninsulated terminals.    This only if there is no other choice.   

[BlackICE]

I never has any success using insulated connectors. The wires can be pulled out. Maybe the problem is I never matched the connectors to a crimper made just for that connector. But I think the real problem is the insulating material is to easily compressed leading to a weaker clamping force compared to the all metal non-insulation connector.

[tooki]

I never has any success using insulated connectors. The wires can be pulled out. Maybe the problem is I never matched the connectors to a crimper made just for that connector. But I think the real problem is the insulating material is to easily compressed leading to a weaker clamping force compared to the all metal non-insulation connector.

No, that’s claiming there’s a fundamental problem, which isn’t true. You need the right tool, the right terminal, and the right wire. People often don’t realize that the colors indicate the wire size the terminal is designed for, so they say “ok, I’ll use red for positive and blue for negative”, meaning that the blue one will be too loose because it’s designed for thicker wire.

[tooki]

Still trying to figure out if the $340 Tyco crimp tools are made on the same line as the $25 tools that are sold on Amazon. To my untrained eye - they all look the same but my engineering self tells me there are subtle differences that could be significant to the end result.

The differences are more than subtle, though it depends on the type of terminal. Insulated terminals are fairly forgiving of tool tolerances, while small uninsulated terminals are extremely demanding.

Let’s look at a middle ground, like uninsulated spade terminals. A good tool has precision cut, polished dies that perfectly guide the terminal parts onto the wire and then apply the right amount of pressure. Cheap tools often have cast metal does that aren’t even ground, never mind precision cut, and certainly not polished. Sometimes they apply paint to the dies (!) to mask how awful they are. Such tools do crimp the terminal, but it’s imprecise, and a lot of the pressure gets lost in the tolerances and in wearing down the terrible die surfaces, rather than into the crimp, resulting in unpredictable results.

When you get to really small terminals like 2.54mm headers and similar (“DuPont”, Molex KK, JST XH, etc), tolerances become critical. A fraction of a millimeter difference in jaw height is enough to result in a crimp too loose to hold well, or one with such excessive force it breaks the strands. I have a $350 AMP crimper as well as various cheap ones, and it’s no contest. The best of the cheap ones are good enough for hobby use, but are nowhere near good enough for production use.

[Electro Fan]

Can't go wrong with Knipex but the OP's question is "How much do you have to spend to get a good crimping tool?"  This leads to two other questions:  1) What are you going to want to crimp with the tool?  and 2) How good is good enough?

My experience with this is that when someone is starting down this path it's often hard to predict beyond the immediate connectors of interest what other connectors might need crimping.  And even when you know what connectors you want to start with there is a bit of a learning curve.  A person could spend a lot of time (which might be worth even more than the cost of a very good crimper) researching this stuff, so it might be better to start with an entry or mid-range tool and learn a few things from actually using a crimper.

Having said all that, crimpers can be dedicated or modular.  If you really think you are going to do various types of connectors the modular has some merit.

fwiw, I found these to be reasonable in price and peformance:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00788LS0S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can add the jaws as you discover the need:
https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/voicedatavideo-replacement-parts/crimp-die-set-insulated-terms-awg-10-22#Related%20Items

https://www.amazon.com/Crimp-Insulated-Klein-Tools-VDV205-035/dp/B007888BXK/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/138-1437845-8841506?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B007888BXK&pd_rd_r=b802a788-ce89-4caf-af7c-ff199cc14e21&pd_rd_w=4ooIK&pd_rd_wg=gkn1H&pf_rd_p=ce6c479b-ef53-49a6-845b-bbbf35c28dd3&pf_rd_r=6GXRHBP6SSNTC6PVEQRR&psc=1&refRID=6GXRHBP6SSNTC6PVEQRR

I have one Knipex tool.  I'm pretty sure it will outlive the Klein crimper, and me too - but the at the rate I crimp the Klein will probably also last longer than me.

Having said all that, there is no crimper frame that I've ever seen that will handle all types of connectors.  So for example if you want to crimp ferrules I think you could start with this and crimp a bunch of AWG23-10 ferrules:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W4O14D2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't use ferrules very often but they are a nice touch to add when you want to terminate a wire on a screw-down block.  At the price of this tool (and the Klein crimper) it's ok if I only crimp once in a while, and when I need to crimp they work A-OK.

The challenge I've found with connectors is that you often don't know what you need (type and size) until you encounter the need; then you have to find the connectors, and at that point you know what tool you need.  After some experience with connectors you get to which comes first? The chicken (crimper) or the egg (connector)?  At which point you will probably wind up with a frame that takes a decent selection of dies, and then you stock up on the connectors those dies support, and this works until you run into something new; then wash, rinse, dry, repeat.  It takes a while to build up a full service laundromat in this metaphor and unless  you are in a moderately high volume repeatable manufacturing mode, there is a chance that lots of stuff will be one-offs, or at least until they become repeats - so having more tools (frames/dies) that can do more things in low to moderate volume with good enough quality can be more cost-effective than buying el primo crimpers for all the possibilities that might or might not ever generate more than occasional use.  YMMV

[BlackICE]

I never has any success using insulated connectors. The wires can be pulled out. Maybe the problem is I never matched the connectors to a crimper made just for that connector. But I think the real problem is the insulating material is to easily compressed leading to a weaker clamping force compared to the all metal non-insulation connector.

No, that’s claiming there’s a fundamental problem, which isn’t true. You need the right tool, the right terminal, and the right wire. People often don’t realize that the colors indicate the wire size the terminal is designed for, so they say “ok, I’ll use red for positive and blue for negative”, meaning that the blue one will be too loose because it’s designed for thicker wire.

I redid a test and found out I was using the die in reverse. Clamping the insulation with the wire section of the die. After correcting this dumb error I got much better crimps, but they still are not as good as non-insulated connectors. I could no longer pull out the wire by hand, but could do so using plies with a lot of force. With non-insulated connectors the wire will break and never pull out. I don't know if this makes a significant difference in real life use.

BTW I used dies like these

https://www.kleintools.com/sites/all/product_assets/catalog_imagery/klein/vdv205-035.jpg

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/voicedatavideo-replacement-parts/crimp-die-set-insulated-terms-awg-10-22#Related%20Items

But branded Eclispe.

[Psi]

I'll just leave this video here

[deadlylover]

I redid a test and found out I was using the die in reverse. Clamping the insulation with the wire section of the die. After correcting this dumb error I got much better crimps, but they still are not as good as non-insulated connectors. I could no longer pull out the wire by hand, but could do so using plies with a lot of force. With non-insulated connectors the wire will break and never pull out. I don't know if this makes a significant difference in real life use.

Don't worry I'm sure we've all made that mistake before. One thing I like about the proper tooling is that they have terminal locators that hold the terminal in place while you crimp (doesn't stop me from feeding the wire in the non-crimping side for a butt splice when I'm upside down trying to repair a harness in a passenger footwell). 

Mil spec for the insulated terminals is 50lbf minimum for 16awg wire, in real world it's usually a good 30-70% stronger than that (even after vibration or salt spray tests according to TE).

Here are photos of a crimp with a "good generic" tool versus the "specified best" tool. (Pressmaster KSA0760 and AMP 59250, terminal is an AMP/TE PIDG butt splice)

[mansaxel]

Here are photos of a crimp with a "good generic" tool versus the "specified best" tool. (Pressmaster KSA0760 and AMP 59250, terminal is an AMP/TE PIDG butt splice)

The Pressmaster is possibly made in Sweden, in the same factory as Crimpex. The "*760" has been around for at least 35 years; I remember a Crimpex CSA0760 being the best I'd ever seen back in 1990. I don't think it's specified for pink butt splices, but for red/blue/yellow insulated ones it is just the trick.  Providing, of course, that you stick to the right conductor cross section for those terminals.

Red is 1,5mm², blue 2,5mm² and yellow is 6mm².

This comes out as in all three sizes a little bit above 16, 12 and 10AWG, respectively.
Proper would be, say 15, 13 and 9AWG, if they were common. Googling gives that at least CPC Farnell thinks these gauges do exist, but probably mostly as translations of metric gauges.

[tooki]

“Possibly”? It says “Made in Sweden” right on the tool!

As I understand it, Pressmaster is the manufacturer. Other companies have their tools made by Pressmaster.

[deadlylover]

The Pressmaster is possibly made in Sweden, in the same factory as Crimpex. The "*760" has been around for at least 35 years; I remember a Crimpex CSA0760 being the best I'd ever seen back in 1990. I don't think it's specified for pink butt splices, but for red/blue/yellow insulated ones it is just the trick.  Providing, of course, that you stick to the right conductor cross section for those terminals.

Good to know the history, thanks. 

That is a "red" 22-16awg splice, it just looks pink for whatever reason (TE doesn't make any official PIDG pink splices). 

If the plastic insulation is slightly translucent like the one I've shown, then it's usually made from nylon and is higher quality than the opaque ones.

[mansaxel]

The Pressmaster is possibly made in Sweden, in the same factory as Crimpex. The "*760" has been around for at least 35 years; I remember a Crimpex CSA0760 being the best I'd ever seen back in 1990. I don't think it's specified for pink butt splices, but for red/blue/yellow insulated ones it is just the trick.  Providing, of course, that you stick to the right conductor cross section for those terminals.

Good to know the history, thanks. 

That is a "red" 22-16awg splice, it just looks pink for whatever reason (TE doesn't make any official PIDG pink splices). 

If the plastic insulation is slightly translucent like the one I've shown, then it's usually made from nylon and is higher quality than the opaque ones.

Ah, I see. When looking at your images a second time, it appeared to me that the view along the cable showed the AMP crimped one as more snug around the cable, but as there are two crimp indents made, that one is for strain relief rather than electric contact, and the one closer to the middle of the butt joint is for electrical contact. Hard to tell, but I like to believe that the inner crimp made with the 0760 looks to be made with higher pressure.  Only time, pull test and a resistance measurement will tell which was best.