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How to connect to a very, very challanging BlackBerry Q10 keyboard connector?

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JoeN:

--- Quote from: mazurov on August 21, 2015, 03:33:26 am ---I told you already. Headers on DF40, as well as receptacles on other types have extra edge pins just for mounting, i.e., not making electrical contact with anything. They are also not counted as "pins' in the datasheet. It is not clear what was that you counted - inner or outer pins, I suggest to do it again and if counts are different use the one that is smaller.

--- End quote ---

I think I understand you.  Take a look at the pictures above.  There are two rows of 14 pins each, 28 total.  Now, as you say, it's obvious that the top two pins and bottom two pins have no connection and are reinforced with a bit more solder.  That makes it 24 pins, not 28, and Mouser has a 24 pin receptacle DF40C(2.0)-24DS-0.4V(51) and a 24 pin header DF40C-24DP-0.4V(51), just as you say.  I will order that receptacle and see if it works out.  Thanks.  Now it makes sense.

that_guy:
I have some experience with these board-to-board connectors and I can say that you're extremely lucky that this one has the HRS logo on it so you at least know the manufacturer. What you need now is some calipers to measure the identifying dimensions on this plug so that you can purchase the correct receptacle. "Looking like" a particular range isn't good enough because ranges differ only by 10th's of a mm and the fit is very tight such that you cannot get away with being close but not exact.

Manual soldering using an iron with Hirose connectors is possible under a microscope because the receptacle pins protrude far enough from the edge unlike certain other manufacturers. Hot air is a bad idea. The plastic is soft and you'll easily melt it.

JoeN:

--- Quote from: that_guy on August 21, 2015, 03:05:35 pm ---I have some experience with these board-to-board connectors and I can say that you're extremely lucky that this one has the HRS logo on it so you at least know the manufacturer. What you need now is some calipers to measure the identifying dimensions on this plug so that you can purchase the correct receptacle. "Looking like" a particular range isn't good enough because ranges differ only by 10th's of a mm and the fit is very tight such that you cannot get away with being close but not exact.

Manual soldering using an iron with Hirose connectors is possible under a microscope because the receptacle pins protrude far enough from the edge unlike certain other manufacturers. Hot air is a bad idea. The plastic is soft and you'll easily melt it.

--- End quote ---

Ok.  Thanks for that advice.  I have calipers and a microscope too but I have never measured something this small so I will have to give that a go.  I am actually rather good at soldering small parts.  Looking at this plug, if the receptacle has pins that protrude like the plug does (and they do on the datasheets I have seen so far), I doubt I will have any serious trouble soldering it.  At that point I am hoping the keyboard is just a switch matrix because that will make it rather easy to figure out.

doctormord:
Why not getting a broken phone where this keyboard comes from? De/Resolder the socket and you're fine?

JoeN:

--- Quote from: doctormord on August 28, 2015, 11:18:48 am ---Why not getting a broken phone where this keyboard comes from? De/Resolder the socket and you're fine?

--- End quote ---

I looked into that and though I don't recall seeing prices that thrilled me.   It's also not reproducible if I want to make more than one of these things and I think I will.

Here are some parts that I found.  Not sure if the second, more reasonable one, even contains the socket.

Full "broken" or bricked in some manner phone ($46):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blackberry-Q10-16GB-Smartphone-New-LCD-Handset-Bad-Software-keypad-For-Parts-/301477440113

Assembly ($15):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-LCD-Assembly-for-BlackBerry-Q10-Replacement-Parts-/400837319886

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