How to stop my laptop dc barrel charger from charging inconsistently?

[electroniclearner820327]

It will only charge when in a very specific position when plugged in.

I have to fiddle with plugging and unplugging and twisting and jamming something up against it to put pressure on the wire to stay in a certain configuration in order to make it charge properly. I have not found a consistent way to do this either and takes many minutes of faffing.

Also it can shift out of position and if I don't keep constantly checking the estimated charge time I could easily be left with a flat battery and it shuts down as the charging light will still say charge when really is not charging to a capacity to be in a surplus but rather a deficit.

I don't know what could be causing it. I checked the lead connector with at multimeter and it shows solid voltage. I tried cleaning the input connection on the laptop and that didn't help.

What could be causing this inconsistency?

[janoc]

Worn out or wrong size plug causing poor contact. Or the connector is ripped out of the PCB, with the same result.

[DeKu]

Do you have a Multimeter?

If so, you can check the Barrel plug at the End of the Cable, while wiggling it... So you can find out if its the Cable or the Plug. If you get inconstistent readings, you may have a break in your Cable. But most of the time, its the the receiving side on the Device. Usually, most of them tend to loose contact to the PCB. Sometimes you can "temporarily" fix it, by resoldering the Jack. In my old Repair Shop, we tended to use Chassis mounted Jacks and soldered a wire to the Mainboard of the Laptop.

I do not believe, that that is an option with newer Models though. They are much slimmer and usually the Space you would need for something like this, just isn't there.

What kind of Laptop - Model is it?

DeKu

[JustMeHere]

I used to admin laptops, and it was very common for the power jack to break away from the PCB.   For a laptop that moved around alot 2-3 years was a good life expectancy mostly because of this.

[electroniclearner820327]

Do you have a Multimeter?

That was mentioned in the op. I have one and used it to check the male connector but not anything on the laptop itself or while it was plugged in. Just checked the + and - of the barrel.

What kind of Laptop - Model is it?

DeKu

It is a cheapy chinese called jumpertech ezpad pro 6.

Specs:

Code: [Select]

Brand 	‎jumper
Product Dimensions 	‎30 x 18.6 x 0.9 cm; 1.32 kg
Batteries 	‎1 Lithium Metal batteries required. (included)
Item model number 	‎EZpad 6 Pro
Manufacturer 	‎jumper
Series 	‎EZpad 6pro
Colour 	‎Silver
Form Factor 	‎Convertible
Standing screen display size 	‎11.6 Inches
Screen Resolution 	‎1920 x 1080 pixels
Resolution 	‎1920x1080 Pixels
Processor Brand 	‎Intel
Processor Type 	‎Celeron
Processor Speed 	‎1.1 GHz
Processor Count 	‎2
RAM Size 	‎6 GB
Memory Technology 	‎DDR3
Computer Memory Type 	‎DDR3 SDRAM
Maximum Memory Supported 	‎6 GB
Hard Drive Size 	‎64 GB
Hard Disk Description 	‎Emmc
Audio Details 	‎Speakers
Graphics Coprocessor 	‎Intel HD Graphics 500
Graphics Chipset Brand 	‎Intel
Graphics Card Description 	‎Integrated
Graphics RAM Type 	‎DDR3 SDRAM
Graphics Card Interface 	‎Integrated
Connectivity Type 	‎Bluetooth, Wi-Fi
Wireless Type 	‎Bluetooth, 802.11bgn
Number of USB 2.0 Ports 	‎1
Number of USB 3.0 Ports 	‎1
Voltage 	‎3.7 Volts
Optical Drive Type 	‎no
Operating System 	‎Windows 10 Home
Are Batteries Included 	‎Yes
Lithium Battery Energy Content 	‎34.5 Watt Hours
Lithium Battery Packaging 	‎Batteries contained in equipment
Lithium Battery Voltage 	‎7.6 Volts
Lithium Battery Weight 	‎130 g
Number Of Lithium Ion Cells 	‎2
Item Weight 	‎1.32 kg
Guaranteed software updates until 	‎unknown

[electroniclearner820327]

Worn out or wrong size plug causing poor contact. Or the connector is ripped out of the PCB, with the same result.

If the connector is ripped out wouldn't it not charge at all?

It is getting so bad now. I had to spend like 20+ minutes fiddling to try and find an angle where it would charge. Finally it did for a few minutes to get to 27% or so but then when I check back again it is discharging faster than it is charging.

Is it fixable relatively easily? I see the main impediment being the laptops are more 'sealed' and not supposed to be opened up unlike desktop pcs. I haven't tried with this one or looked so it may be possible. Not familiar with opening laptops, having been used to desktops.

I wonder if it might crack the plastic or something to open it. Not a great problem since it was a cheap device and don't mind bodging a patch over it after if I could get the charge functioning again as in this state it is very close to unusable.

Once open what would be the process of diagnosing and then fixing the issue? As earlier stated the wire and connector side seem fine, having checked again today, It seems the laptop connector side is the problem.

[janoc]

Worn out or wrong size plug causing poor contact. Or the connector is ripped out of the PCB, with the same result.

If the connector is ripped out wouldn't it not charge at all?

It is enough that the solder joints are cracked. Then you will have intermittent contact with exactly the symptoms you describe.

Is it fixable relatively easily? I see the main impediment being the laptops are more 'sealed' and not supposed to be opened up unlike desktop pcs. I haven't tried with this one or looked so it may be possible. Not familiar with opening laptops, having been used to desktops.

Impossible to say? Depends on your laptop, your equipment and your skills.

I wonder if it might crack the plastic or something to open it. Not a great problem since it was a cheap device and don't mind bodging a patch over it after if I could get the charge functioning again as in this state it is very close to unusable.

Once open what would be the process of diagnosing and then fixing the issue? As earlier stated the wire and connector side seem fine, having checked again today, It seems the laptop connector side is the problem.

If you don't know how to diagnose broken solder joints/connectors, I suggest you go and find someone who can help you or mentor you - e.g. a local hackerspace/makerspace, repair cafe, etc. Trying to repair a laptop full of fragile components, glue, etc. as your first project is a good way to turn a simple repair into an unfixable disaster, esp. if you don't have the skills or equipment required.

[Solder_Junkie]

I have repaired a few laptops, but no idea about the one in question. Those by reputable brands can be opened by removing the screws and popping the case open with a thin guitar pick.

Whether you can access the charging socket to re-solder, or replace, is another matter.

There are several reviews on Amazon that also mention charging socket problems and no support from the manufacturer…

A computer repair shop might be your only option if you aren’t confident at repairing it yourself.

SJ

[vk6zgo]

I could never understand why they use the horrible things.

It's not as if they need the barrel to activate a switch contact, as all the ones I have seen used mainboard circuitry to detect the presence of the incoming DC.
Perfectly adequate two conductor plugs & sockets have been around for years, such a the small ones used with cheap AM CB radios.
The latest laptops use USB "C" connectors.

[tooki]

A lot of (most?) laptop DC barrel jacks are not two-conductor, but are three: ground, V+, and 1-Wire communication.

“The latest” laptops? USB-C charging has been widespread for charging for over a decade now, actually. It’s only the most power-hungry models that couldn’t be powered by USB-C until the recent 240W upgrade to USB PD.

[u666sa]

You will have to locate same connector on aliexpress and solder it in place. That's the only solution. 
https://ibb.co/xFSzQmD


Could it possibly be this one, DC003?
https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005007253711859.html

I wouldn't know, you'd have to disassemble it and take a look.

[tooki]

You will have to locate same connector on aliexpress and solder it in place. That's the only solution. 

That is only “the only solution” if the jack itself is damaged, which we don’t know to be the case or not. If it’s just broken solder joints, then no new jack is needed. And if the PCB itself is damaged, then replacing the jack won’t fix the problem, either.

(So please don’t write “the only solution is…” when you are not 100.0% certain that is the case.)

[u666sa]

It's a cheap connector, my expertice tells me it is the only solution, in fact my professional side wants to charge the OP $30 for replacement job, and that includes restoring solder points if those are broken! 

[DimitriP]

If you don't know how to diagnose broken solder joints/connectors, I suggest you go and find someone who can help you or mentor you - e.g. a local hackerspace/makerspace, repair cafe, etc. Trying to repair a laptop full of fragile components, glue, etc. as your first project is a good way to turn a simple repair into an unfixable disaster, esp. if you don't have the skills or equipment required.

It's time to take it apaaaaaht!!!

[vk6zgo]

A lot of (most?) laptop DC barrel jacks are not two-conductor, but are three: ground, V+, and 1-Wire communication.

“The latest” laptops? USB-C charging has been widespread for charging for over a decade now, actually. It’s only the most power-hungry models that couldn’t be powered by USB-C until the recent 240W upgrade to USB PD.

All the ones I have repaired were just + & - , using a "dumb" charger, so there was no communication, nor was there any provision for an extra contact on the barrel.

I have had a number of laptops, with the current one only a few years old, & they all used barrel jacks.
My son's & daughter's new laptops use USB "C".

[JustMeHere]

A lot of (most?) laptop DC barrel jacks are not two-conductor, but are three: ground, V+, and 1-Wire communication.

“The latest” laptops? USB-C charging has been widespread for charging for over a decade now, actually. It’s only the most power-hungry models that couldn’t be powered by USB-C until the recent 240W upgrade to USB PD.

All the ones I have repaired were just + & - , using a "dumb" charger, so there was no communication, nor was there any provision for an extra contact on the barrel.

I have had a number of laptops, with the current one only a few years old, & they all used barrel jacks.
My son's & daughter's new laptops use USB "C".

Yeah, I haven't had a laptop that uses a sense pin in a long time.  It's usually just a 19v barrel jack or USB-C PD these days.

[electroniclearner820327]

A lot of (most?) laptop DC barrel jacks are not two-conductor, but are three: ground, V+, and 1-Wire communication.

“The latest” laptops? USB-C charging has been widespread for charging for over a decade now, actually. It’s only the most power-hungry models that couldn’t be powered by USB-C until the recent 240W upgrade to USB PD.

All the ones I have repaired were just + & - , using a "dumb" charger, so there was no communication, nor was there any provision for an extra contact on the barrel.

I have had a number of laptops, with the current one only a few years old, & they all used barrel jacks.
My son's & daughter's new laptops use USB "C".

I will also add here that I know this is the case with mine too because I actually am not charging it with AC to DC via mains but I actually made my own connection direct to my van's leisure battery and it only uses +/-. It actually took me ages to figure out, with many suggestions to finally narrow it down to this one, that I had to use a voltage regulator to make it charge at a consistent 12v as my leisure battery fluctuates from 11-14 or somewhere in that range. Before I did that the light would come on but not charge and as someone rightly suggested it was due to overvoltage protection meaning it would only charge in a specific range.

Now before anyone says this is the cause of the problems it was working fine for the best part of a year until suddenly getting worse recently. Well it was not flawless as it did often require a bit of fiddling but it has not become extremely temperamental to the point of rarely finding the 'sweet spot' at all.

Oh another interesting note, it does say it is charging, just with a longer estimate than it would take to discharge if plugged in. So today I plugged it in as I went out to work and when I came back after 6 hours or so and switched it on it was on 100%. So it does charge, just much slower. If in the 'sweet spot' it should charge in under two hours and I could keep it plugged in on 0% and it would increase quite quickly.

[ebastler]

I actually am not charging it with AC to DC via mains but I actually made my own connection direct to my van's leisure battery and it only uses +/-. It actually took me ages to figure out, with many suggestions to finally narrow it down to this one, that I had to use a voltage regulator to make it charge at a consistent 12v as my leisure battery fluctuates from 11-14

And you did not consider it necessary to mention that before? Hmpf.
Did you double-check by trying to charge the notebook via its standard wall-wart supply?

How much current can your voltage regulator provide? Replacement power supplies for that Jumper EZpad 6 Pro seem to offer 12V, 3A. If that's what you are comparing to, can your voltage regulator provide the same current?

Also, are you sure the voltage regulator still gives you 12V if the input from the van battery is below 12V (or just a tad above)? There are "buck/boost" converters which can do that, but many simple buck or linear converters cannot.

[electroniclearner820327]

I actually am not charging it with AC to DC via mains but I actually made my own connection direct to my van's leisure battery and it only uses +/-. It actually took me ages to figure out, with many suggestions to finally narrow it down to this one, that I had to use a voltage regulator to make it charge at a consistent 12v as my leisure battery fluctuates from 11-14

And you did not consider it necessary to mention that before? Hmpf.
Did you double-check by trying to charge the notebook via its standard wall-wart supply?

How much current can your voltage regulator provide? Replacement power supplies for that Jumper EZpad 6 Pro seem to offer 12V, 3A. If that's what you are comparing to, can your voltage regulator provide the same current?

Also, are you sure the voltage regulator still gives you 12V if the input from the van battery is below 12V (or just a tad above)? There are "buck/boost" converters which can do that, but many simple buck or linear converters cannot.

Not sure of anything. Yes I should have mentioned it from the start but I simply forgot. Was not intentional.

Come to think of it you might be on to something about the battery being below a certain point as I have had really bad solar lately which has been dropping the battery to almost 0% and the issues with the laptop seem to have started to get really bad around this same time frame! Also I thought on the better solar days it seemed to charge more easily again.

Will have to keep an eye on that.

I have checked with the multimeter several times though, throughout this bad period, and it always says consistent voltage of 11.6 or 12.4. These are two voltages I have set it at myself because of the range that the laptop would charge in. I would keep it on for a few seconds but I don't know about more than that. I can only say when I took the readings it did not fluctuate for that time.

[kmm]

Same position-sensitive failure behavior has happened to me when the wire going to the barrel connector breaks inside the charger cable, usually the break is right before the strain relief part of the molding.

I've fixed a couple laptop charge bricks with nonstandard barrel connectors by cutting off the damaged section of cable, stripping the plastic molding off the barrel connector (slice with a knife longitudinally and peel usually works, might need pliers to get the peel started), and then re-soldering the wires to the appropriate barrel terminals. After it's re-terminated hot glue squirted up inside a heat shrink sleeve do a pretty decent job of remaking the molded plastic, aesthetics aside. All the repairs I've done like this have lasted long enough that the laptop went too obsolete to be particularly useful before the cable failed again.

Should be easy to check if it's a cable problem just by probing the barrel and seeing if the voltage comes back or goes away when it's flexed in certain ways.