Electronics > Beginners
How to wire up a 240VAC receptacle
<< < (3/57) > >>
Spork Schivago:

--- Quote from: Gregg on May 14, 2018, 04:06:51 am ---A lot depends on how the device that you are powering is configured.  If you can find the manufacturer’s installation documents, it is a possibility that you can wire it to your 240V household panel with its own 30 amp two pole breaker.  If it is something like an inverter welder, this is a pretty good possibility. 
The IEC 60309 plugs are labeled L, N, and G for reference as they are used in many other countries where the neutral is closely referenced to ground and the labels are to keep connections standard.  Just make sure you get the ground correct if your equipment can use 120/240 volt power directly.  There is nothing wrong with IEC 60309 plugs and receptacles; but they are not cheap.  A set of L6-30 twist locks may be cheaper than buying the IEC 60309 receptacle.

--- End quote ---
I'd void warranty if I replaced the plug.   I'm going to purchase the receptacle from Europe.   Buddy of mine over there has them dirt cheap.

The pics I uploaded have the L1 and Earth symbol (G), but doesn't list N.   This equipment cannot run off 120VAC by itself.   It's not one of those 120V or 240V.   It requires 200VAC - 240VAC to operate.   It's just a Power Distribution Unit for a server rack.   A horizontal, metered one, made by Hewlett Packard Enterprise (or at least they outsourced someone to make it for them).

For my cheap BGA rework station, I used the NEMA L6-30 twist locks.   They're okay, feel kinda cheap, but eh.   It works and passed inspection.   I want to make sure this passes inspection before I fill out the paperwork for the permit and purchase the receptacle over in Europe, purchase the wire, run it, and also make sure it's definitely not gonna fry the PDU.
IanB:

--- Quote from: Spork Schivago on May 14, 2018, 04:08:22 am ---So, just to be clear, so long as I purchase a 2P+E 32-amp receptacle, I can just wire the hots from a double pole 20-amp breaker, and run one of the hots to the neutral?    Or do I run one of the hots to the ground?    The receptacles I've been looking at for this have ground, neutral, line, where line is 240VAC.
--- End quote ---

It will make a nice bang if you connect a hot wire to ground  :o


--- Quote ---Instead of hooking neutral to neutral, I'd hook neutral to 120VAC, then line to 120VAC, and ground to ground?   Using 12/2?

The device draws a good bit of current, but nothing insane.   7300KVA, or around 30 amp when running optimally (80% load).

--- End quote ---

The best way to think about things is to forget that "neutral" wires exist. Just consider all power conductors to be hot, and keep them well away from ground.

Note that a 20 amp circuit is no good for a device that will draw 30 amps or more. You will probably want a 35 or 40 amp circuit for that (with appropriate wire thickness and breaker).
Spork Schivago:

--- Quote from: IanB on May 14, 2018, 04:33:05 am ---
--- Quote from: Spork Schivago on May 14, 2018, 04:08:22 am ---So, just to be clear, so long as I purchase a 2P+E 32-amp receptacle, I can just wire the hots from a double pole 20-amp breaker, and run one of the hots to the neutral?    Or do I run one of the hots to the ground?    The receptacles I've been looking at for this have ground, neutral, line, where line is 240VAC.
--- End quote ---

It will make a nice bang if you connect a hot wire to ground  :o


--- Quote ---Instead of hooking neutral to neutral, I'd hook neutral to 120VAC, then line to 120VAC, and ground to ground?   Using 12/2?

The device draws a good bit of current, but nothing insane.   7300KVA, or around 30 amp when running optimally (80% load).

--- End quote ---

The best way to think about things is to forget that "neutral" wires exist. Just consider all power conductors to be hot, and keep them well away from ground.

Note that a 20 amp circuit is no good for a device that will draw 30 amps or more. You will probably want a 35 or 40 amp circuit for that (with appropriate wire thickness and breaker).

--- End quote ---

What I did, before I read your post, was take my DMM and read the continuity between the pin with the Earth symbol and the external earth symbol green screw and seen 0 ohm resistance and came to the same conclusion you did about the crispiness.

I measured between L/+ and the unlabeled one and got 0.391Mohm (mega ohm).   Then I measured between the unlabeled pin and Earth and got infinite.

I believe I will be good with a double pole 20-amp breaker, where each breaker is providing 120VAC at 20-amp.   Correct me if I'm wrong here, but two 20-amp breakers each providing 120VAC would be equal to one 240VAC breaker allowing up to 40-amp current draw, correct?   If I were using one breaker, then yes, I'd need a 35 or 40 amp breaker, but because I'm going to use a double-pole 20-amp breaker and run one of the hots to the L/+, and the other hot to the unlabeled pin, the neutral to the Earth symbol, I should be good to go, right?

What type of wire would I buy that wouldn't have the bare copper ground but three coated individual wires inside?   Would it be 12/2 without ground?   NM-B should be fine for basement installation, right?
IanB:

--- Quote from: Spork Schivago on May 14, 2018, 04:46:55 am ---I believe I will be good with a double pole 20-amp breaker, where each breaker is providing 120VAC at 20-amp.   Correct me if I'm wrong here, but two 20-amp breakers each providing 120VAC would be equal to one 240VAC breaker allowing up to 40-amp current draw, correct?
--- End quote ---
Not correct. 20 amps is 20 amps. If your load is 40 amps you need a breaker and circuit rated at more than 40 amps (using the appropriate safety margin according to the relevant section of code).


--- Quote ---What type of wire would I buy that wouldn't have the bare copper ground but three coated individual wires inside?   Would it be 12/2 without ground?   NM-B should be fine for basement installation, right?

--- End quote ---
It's probably best you employ a commercial electrician. Once you start asking these sorts of questions it suggests you are out of your depth.
radar_macgyver:

--- Quote from: Spork Schivago on May 14, 2018, 04:46:55 am ---What type of wire would I buy that wouldn't have the bare copper ground but three coated individual wires inside?   Would it be 12/2 without ground?   NM-B should be fine for basement installation, right?

--- End quote ---
If it's to go from the wall plug to device, you shouldn't use NM, that's for in-wall use only. You can get either SOOW cable or type-W cable for this purpose. For in-wall use, if you want a cable type that has an insulated ground, consider type MC cable. Both SOOW and MC are available at home improvement stores. Type-W is usually only sold at electrical supply stores, or  you can buy online. My preferred vendor is https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/

Buy a pocket NEC guide for information on selecting wire gauge etc. Or, as IanB says, get a pro to install an outlet.
Navigation
Message Index
Next page
Previous page
There was an error while thanking
Thanking...

Go to full version
Powered by SMFPacks Advanced Attachments Uploader Mod