Electronics > Beginners

How to wire up a 240VAC receptacle

<< < (23/57) > >>

Bratster:

--- Quote from: Spork Schivago on May 17, 2018, 12:19:48 am ---
--- Quote from: C on May 16, 2018, 09:41:40 pm ---
Looks like you like to ignore simple facts.

In the USA the standard electrical outlet is 110-120 volts 60hz.

All 220-240 volt stuff uses different connectors. Because of the difference people take more care.

Think of how many people in the USA have used computer power cords. For the USA the end that connects to a computer is 115volts. For a lot of the world that is 220volts but not in USA.

So now you have people seeing the computer end thinking 115volts and connecting an extension cord to your PDU, but that is not 115 volts. A part of safe is knowing what to expect.
So what is a safe European standard is not as safe in the USA due to common thought.

The added transformer is creating a safe NON-USA standard in addition to wasting power. That transformer will get hot, and that is a waste of power. 

One thing you might like to know is that 220 volt 60hz is more dangerous then 220 volt 50hz. The 60hz has a greater chance of messing up your heart beat then 50hz.

If you want real safe 220 volts using a USA split phase( 220 Volts with a neutral center tap) you use a four wire connection. The forth connection the safety ground.
Unlike the rest of the world USA 220 volt equipment often has some 115 volt loads.

C

--- End quote ---

We need 240VAC, again, for the server, not 220VAC, although it would run on 220VAC.   Most of our equipment is NOT from the USA.   The cords to power these devices are NOT what you find with a NORMAL USA bought PC, so I highly doubt anyone who is allowed to be around the rack will try plugging anything into the PDU.    I mean, simple fact, strangers aren't going to be down here, and if they are, they're breaking the law.   Eventually, we have to worry about my daughter, but that's a long ways away, and even then, she cannot physically get into the rack to plug anything into the PDU.   Ohm's law shows us if we double the volts, we cut the current draw in half.   200v * 2 amp = 400 watts.   20 amp * 20v = 400 watts.    I think I'd rather get shocked, if I had to get shocked, at the 200v, 2 amp, rather than the 20 amp.

I have no idea how anyone is going to plug any cords into the PDU, I don't know what you think the inputs look like, but you physically cannot take a normal PC cord and plug it into the PDU.   You need special cords....most of our energy hungry equipment is designed to run off 240VAC, but most of it can go down to 100VAC.   I mean, we have some American made workstations, but they're not going into the rack at all, and aren't being powered by this PDU.   A lot of stuff came from Germany.   There's usually no switch on these pieces of equipment to flip.   They say 100VAC - 240VAC.

I mentioned in a previous post that security was our responsibility and we get audited, where some people from some companies come in and check to make sure everything is up to their standard.   We get a report on what needs to change, if anything, and it's our responsibility to change what they list.   Once we wire up the 15kVA transformer (or higher someone to wire it up for us), we'll have to have yet another one of those pesky audits.

There's security in place.  Maybe you can take comfort in knowing that currently, no one who is specifically supposed allowed in the datacenter can get into the datacenter without doing a lot of illegal work?   This isn't a playroom.   The idea is though, we do our own thing once these contracts are up, and hopefully, later on in life, our daughter takes interest.   If not, that's okay, we'll love and accept her no matter what.   That's years down the road before we burn that bridge though.

Heck, do you know how hard it was to say no to the three phase installation?   We were talking over 50,000$ and almost went for it, because then we can purchase stuff that's a bit more suited to our task at hand.   I feel better having a PDU hooked up with a backup sitting on the shelf in case one shits the bed, rather than daisy chaining a whole bunch to try and get my systems running.

--- End quote ---
220 230 and 240 volts are all the same.
Voltage wise all of those are acceptable. *

Same thing with 110 115 and 120, all of them acceptable.

In the US the nominal is 120 and 240, but it's quite common for people to say 110 and 220 Etc.

I'm not familiar with the UK at all, but I think their nominal voltage is 230 volts? But the specification allows anywhere from 220 to 240 or something like that.

*Except in some special cases, mainly on large equipment that has its own transformer built-in, then there are multiple Taps to get the voltage just right.



Sent from my Moto x4 using Tapatalk

Bratster:
IMHO while I think you could install this with minimal problems you really should get an electrical engineer or commercial electrician that is familiar with something along these lines to have a plan drawn up and run it past your electrical inspector for the city and make sure everything will be okay.

You seem very concerned with security and Audits and having it done as right as it can be and all of that stuff;
 so having this planned out by a professional and approved by the inspector before you start doing things would be highly important. IMO

I would bet your insurance is going to absolutely require that.



Sent from my Moto x4 using Tapatalk

Bratster:
Here is a really crappy back of the napkin bare basic sketch of what you need and has already been suggested by one or two other people in here.

It is missing probably a circuit breaker on the output of the Transformer and is not detailed, but that shows you how the Transformer would get wired up.

Your house power comes in on the left with two 120volt lines that have 240 volts between them, off of a 2 gang breaker, that feeds the Transformer.

The output of the Transformer is now its own isolated power source, so you are now able to call one side of it line at 240 volts and the other side of it neutral at 0 volts and can add a neutral to ground bond in a new breaker panel.


WARNING:
I'm not a professional engineer, I have no certifications, I have warned you to get a professional, this drawing may kill you and burn your house down.



Sent from my Moto x4 using Tapatalk

Teledog:
At the risk of p*ssing some people off,
Kitchen outlets/receptacles, if done to most American codes, have alternating hot lines, above & below on each outlet (hence the center breakaway tab on the receptacle line connections)
No, this wont run a full 32 amps (do you really require that much current?)
Want easy? One can purchase these units for North American 220 (240?);
https://www.quick220.com
I've made my own ..for an Australian wired vertical donair rotisserie - works very well!  :P
Do not use/connect the neutral(s), just use the two hots (upper and lower receptacle)- one to each side of the 220/240 box outlet, and the ground(s), of course.
Test your outlets/receptacles with a meter before trying! Not every electrician follows code.
Perhaps do the same technique with higher UL current rated connections?
G'luck!

Richard Crowley:

--- Quote from: Teledog on May 17, 2018, 02:34:28 am ---Kitchen outlets/receptacles, if done to most American codes, have alternating hot lines, above & below on each outlet (hence the center breakaway tab on the receptacle line connections)
--- End quote ---
Can you cite an authoritative reference for that?
In 70 years I have never seen (or even heard of) such an extraordinary thing.

Even if it is everything as claimed, while it might be suitable for some random domestic applications, it is certainly not up to the task of operating a rack full of heavy-duty servers.  Not if reliability means anything to you.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

There was an error while thanking
Thanking...
Go to full version
Powered by SMFPacks Advanced Attachments Uploader Mod