Electronics > Beginners
How to wire up a 240VAC receptacle
Spork Schivago:
I was pointed to this datasheet on page 13: https://cc.cnetcontent.com/vcs/hp-ent/inline-content/SI/6/2/62A6FA74BB1B193CE4C7ABB42D42E37228B9C4A7_source.PDF
This is what they quoted:
--- Code: ---Input Voltage Low Line - Rated: 100V - 127V; Min 90V to Max 132V
High Line - Rated: 200 - 240V; Min 180V to Max 264V
(model 720620-B21 and 720482-B21 supports High Line AC input only)
High Line - Rated: 200 - 277VAC; Min 180VAC to Max 305VAC (model 720484-B21 only)
--- End code ---
Mine are the 720620-B21. So do I still insist on those two P9S13A's?
Monkeh:
--- Quote from: Spork Schivago on May 18, 2018, 09:49:59 pm ---I was pointed to this datasheet on page 13: https://cc.cnetcontent.com/vcs/hp-ent/inline-content/SI/6/2/62A6FA74BB1B193CE4C7ABB42D42E37228B9C4A7_source.PDF
This is what they quoted:
--- Code: ---Input Voltage Low Line - Rated: 100V - 127V; Min 90V to Max 132V
High Line - Rated: 200 - 240V; Min 180V to Max 264V
(model 720620-B21 and 720482-B21 supports High Line AC input only)
High Line - Rated: 200 - 277VAC; Min 180VAC to Max 305VAC (model 720484-B21 only)
--- End code ---
Mine are the 720620-B21. So do I still insist on those two P9S13A's?
--- End quote ---
Well, yes, you need 240V. The P9S13A will allow you to use your existing 240V supply.
Richard Crowley:
--- Quote from: Spork Schivago on May 18, 2018, 07:58:49 pm ---I'm trying to understand all this. How does the 208VAC work exactly? You say it's phase to phase, that's like my North American Residential Standard Panel Input 240VAC split-phase, right? 240VAC from one 120VAC hot, and from the other 120VAC hot line coming in. Phase to Neutral is 120.
--- End quote ---
Your 120-0-120 split-phases are 180 degrees apart. So when you take "phase-to-phase" you get 120V + 120V = 240V
--- Quote ---With 208, you say Phase to neutral is 120. So the other phase is 88VAC?
--- End quote ---
Three-phase power is not 180 degrees apart. The phases are 120 degrees apart
There is no "other phase" in 3-phase. There are THREE EQUAL phases around the 360 degree phase circle.
Note that 208V is 86% of 240V and the sine of 120 degrees is 0.86 Not a coincidence.
--- Quote ---And when a device can run off split-phase, does it combine the two phases internally to get the 240VAC
--- End quote ---
If by "split-phase" you mean 120-0-120 domestic mains power service, the two "phases" are 240V apart BY DEFINITION.
By connecting from one phase over to the other (ignoring the "neutral") then you have 240V.
You can call that "combining" if you want, but it won't make any sense to an electrician (or electrical engineer).
--- Quote ---or does half the circuit use 120VAC and the other half use 120VAC?
--- End quote ---
240V domestic appliances (water heater, oven, clothes dryer, etc.) have big resistive heating elements that operate directly on 240V
THey make no reference to the "neutral", and there is no "one half" or "other half".
Many older installations didn't even have a neutral wire. Just L1, L2, and ground.
Spork Schivago:
--- Quote from: Richard Crowley on May 18, 2018, 10:08:18 pm ---
--- Quote from: Spork Schivago on May 18, 2018, 07:58:49 pm ---I'm trying to understand all this. How does the 208VAC work exactly? You say it's phase to phase, that's like my North American Residential Standard Panel Input 240VAC split-phase, right? 240VAC from one 120VAC hot, and from the other 120VAC hot line coming in. Phase to Neutral is 120.
--- End quote ---
Your 120-0-120 split-phases are 180 degrees apart. So when you take "phase-to-phase" you get 120V + 120V = 240V
--- Quote ---With 208, you say Phase to neutral is 120. So the other phase is 88VAC?
--- End quote ---
Three-phase power is not 180 degrees apart. The phases are 120 degrees apart
There is no "other phase" in 3-phase. There are THREE EQUAL phases around the 360 degree phase circle.
Note that 208V is 86% of 240V and the sine of 120 degrees is 0.86 Not a coincidence.
--- Quote ---And when a device can run off split-phase, does it combine the two phases internally to get the 240VAC
--- End quote ---
If by "split-phase" you mean 120-0-120 domestic mains power service, the two "phases" are 240V apart BY DEFINITION.
By connecting from one phase over to the other (ignoring the "neutral") then you have 240V.
You can call that "combining" if you want, but it won't make any sense to an electrician (or electrical engineer).
--- Quote ---or does half the circuit use 120VAC and the other half use 120VAC?
--- End quote ---
240V domestic appliances (water heater, oven, clothes dryer, etc.) have big resistive heating elements that operate directly on 240V
THey make no reference to the "neutral", and there is no "one half" or "other half".
Many older installations didn't even have a neutral wire. Just L1, L2, and ground.
--- End quote ---
Okay, so, for example, my BGA rework station that runs of 120-0-120 from the mains, the heating elements have only two connections, one going in, one coming out. They operate directly on 240VAC. Somewhere, in the circuit, before the electricity reaches those heating elements, there must be a connection where the two phases connect to produce that 240VAC, right?
Here, I have always looked at Neutral and Ground as the same, because in my breaker panel, they are. I take it that's not correct though, I should look at them differently.
If I were to simply rewire the BGA rework station to have 240VAC going down the L1, ground going down the Earth, and Neutral going down the N, then that would be bad, wouldn't it? Because eventually, L1 (240VAC) would be connecting directly to ground.
IanB:
--- Quote from: Spork Schivago on May 19, 2018, 12:03:30 am ---Okay, so, for example, my BGA rework station that runs of 120-0-120 from the mains, the heating elements have only two connections, one going in, one coming out. They operate directly on 240VAC. Somewhere, in the circuit, before the electricity reaches those heating elements, there must be a connection where the two phases connect to produce that 240VAC, right?
Here, I have always looked at Neutral and Ground as the same, because in my breaker panel, they are. I take it that's not correct though, I should look at them differently.
If I were to simply rewire the BGA rework station to have 240VAC going down the L1, ground going down the Earth, and Neutral going down the N, then that would be bad, wouldn't it? Because eventually, L1 (240VAC) would be connecting directly to ground.
--- End quote ---
Let me give you an example. I have a 240 V electric kettle in my kitchen that I have imported from England (I like tea, and I don't want to wait too long for the water to boil).
In the UK, the kettle is wired to a 240 V plug with live, neutral and earth. There is 240 V AC between live and neutral and earth is for safety. It happens that the neutral wire is "neutral", but the kettle doesn't know this. The kettle is a European model that may be sold in many local European markets, and they may not all have the same electrical supply arrangements that the UK has. But I digress...
Here in the USA I have cut off the UK plug and replaced it with a NEMA 6-20 plug (240 V single phase plus ground). In the 6-20 plug I have wired "L" to one pole (L1), "N" to the other pole (L2), and "E" to the ground pin. I plug this into a 6-20 wall socket and I enjoy rapid boiling water from the 3 kW heating element.
The kettle doesn't know that one of the wires isn't neutral, and it doesn't matter because the insulation between the heating element and the rest of the kettle must have been breakdown tested at high voltage to obtain appropriate safety certifications. Some countries in Europe may have a supply where both wires are live just as in North America.
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