Is my new EEVBlog multimeter faulty?

[P90]

Recent Youtube multimeter robustness tests viewed, have me questioning what "best bang for buck" really means

Are we talking value or fireworks, or both?   

"best bang for buck" I found was in Budapest...       

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

you just made my day. right i've almost forgotten about it... i hope you are getting it in the 1st pic, its difficult on wide angle lens. hilarious isnt it? the dummy's guide to fuse installation (fwiw its alot thinner than 30 AWG), i cant remember when i fixed that its been years... 2nd pic A range is getting some reading yay...

You know what? Some ICE "Industria de Costruzioni Elettromecanica" tester model fuses' were ~ exactly like that. Even had a roll of wire (inside the tester) next to the fuse to "reset" when needed. ISTR it was the ICE 680R.

[Electro Detective]

Is that a blonde or brunette Budapest Fuse that P90 mentioned ? 

[janoc]

Recent Youtube multimeter robustness tests viewed, have me questioning what "best bang for buck" really means

Are we talking value or fireworks, or both?   

It was sarcasm ...

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

Is that a blonde or brunette Budapest Fuse that P90 mentioned ? 

Mediterranean for best cuntinuity:

[joeqsmith]

I was at the local hardware stores yesterday and none offered a fast blow fuse.  They also did not have any low current fuses.   I am sure there are non-HRC parts that could be used but in my case anyway, I would still need to order them.

In the UK at least, plug top fuses to BS1362 are cheaply and widely available. These are ceramic fuses with a breaking capacity of about 6 kA at mains voltage. Although not designed for use in meters, they would at a pinch be vastly better than a low current glass fuse or a piece of wire.

many lower end multimeters use those "BS" labeled  fuses...

Many

[yada]

Recent Youtube multimeter robustness tests viewed, have me questioning what "best bang for buck" really means

Are we talking value or fireworks, or both?   

To truly test them you have to go swimming with them in a national park. Also don't forget the going over a water fall test.

[Electro Detective]

For safety's sake (and the users) there should be a re-think on all meter performance versus price debate,

and discuss which meters are field and lab proven best 'No -BANG- Per Buck'   

[Electro Detective]

and discuss which meters are good field and lab proven best 'No -BANG- Per Buck'   

done.. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-list-of-multimeters-that-do-not-appear-to-meet-their-claimed-safety-specs/

The lists are great, but the reality is no meter can survive a gross user error blunder, mixed with ignorance, impatience, and the wrong settings and leads placement.

It's BANG! end of story (and the meter, and unfortunate poorly educated and or dumbass user due to shock, injury, or death via BBQ)

[P90]

take out the fuses and leave them out... and suddenly that meter is much safer...

[Electro Detective]

take out the fuses and leave them out... and suddenly that meter is much safer...

"AIR FUSES" save lives!      

You can get them anywhere, they come in a clear HRC tube format rated @ FFFFFF 16kv Cat 5 and 6,

and you can save big dollars buying a 10 pack      
the money you save can go towards purchase of a clamp meter   

[P90]

take out the fuses and leave them out... and suddenly that meter is much safer...

"AIR FUSES" save lives!      

You can get them anywhere, they come in a clear HRC tube format rated @ FFFFFF 16kv Cat 5 and 6,

and you can save big dollars buying a 10 pack      
the money you save can go towards purchase of a clamp meter   

Quick, better patent (pay-tint as they say in UK) that idea...       LOL

[Electro Detective]

The answer is simpler that you think, but you must own TWO decent multimeters to be able to do it.

Install "Patent Pending" AIR FUSES in the meter that will/should NEVER measure current. Shop around for a good deal on those fuses
or if you're cheap like me, buy a used unloved Fluke 114 that has auto-reset AIR FUSES built in 

The other meter that does measure current must have the non-current inputs (volts/ohms/whatever) BLOCKED, so no human BBQ candidate can ever slot a pair of leads into it.

It's a better gamble than living in a fools paradise trusting an 'all in one' meter, when faced with a classic user error DOA scenario.

[Nerull]

People are aware that loud explosions are not the only failure mode of a DMM, right?

Yeah, most users will never blow up a DMM, even if they replace the fuses with wire.

But it doesn't need to blow up to break. The fuse isn't there just to protect the user, it's also there to protect the meter. Currents which may not pose any danger to the user may well damage the meter. You've decided the part you would like to fail first on your expensive new purchase is the meter itself.

Frying your $200+ meter because you were too lazy to replace a $5 fuse is pretty fucking stupid, especially for the hobbyist user who can't always afford to buy new equipment every time they have a brainfart and forget to switch probe sockets.

[Electro Detective]

The other meter that does measure current must have the non-current inputs (volts/ohms/whatever) BLOCKED, so no human BBQ candidate can ever slot a pair of leads into it.

that doesnt solve anything... foolproof wise..

If it has properly rated HRC fuses it's a good start and better than nothing,
..and Darwin's theory can sort out the 'DIY fuse' fools (good news for those still standing, means more electronics work and women for us)  

A lot of noobs, DIYers and even electrical trades people don't quite get the current and voltage inputs thing, or they forget and BANG!

Meters should have removable current input plastic blocks fitted when new, and advised in the manual of why they are there. Most prodders may never use the current inputs and leave the plastic blocks in for aesthetics
 
Most average prodders don't use (or understand) the 'break circuit' current measurement feature anyway (and shouldn't for anything over 30v) , BUT will put probes in those current sockets (because they are RED coloured too lol) be it a mistake or forgetfulness, and measure voltage and       +$$$

[yada]

Does the fact that the meter is plastic make anyone else feel safe? I would stick a 8$ Chinese meter onto AC mains even if it couldn't handle it. Something inside the meter may pop but its little risk to me if I'm only holding plastic. I wouldn't leave it connected or use it again but still plastic is great insulator. If it was an old piece of equipment with a metal case I would never do that. In fact I'm always extra precautious with metal case anything because they used to tie AC to the chassis or connect it through a by now leaky cap.

[Electro Detective]

Does the fact that the meter is plastic make anyone else feel safe? I would stick a 8$ Chinese meter onto AC mains even if it couldn't handle it. Something inside the meter may pop but its little risk to me if I'm only holding plastic. I wouldn't leave it connected or use it again but still plastic is great insulator. If it was an old piece of equipment with a metal case I would never do that. In fact I'm always extra precautious with metal case anything because they used to tie AC to the chassis or connect it through a by now leaky cap.

It's all good unless the cheap plastic meter has internal issues,
perhaps a loose screw or washer,
or flaked off excess solder blob,
faulty dial or switches,
a combination of the above,
issues that may happen at an inconvenient time when you stick it in the AC mains
and the meter goes BANG! in your hand
and if you're extra lucky, the flying dial and plastic shrapnel will just miss your face,
either way it's not pretty,
and unfair on the people around you if you get badly trashed   

[BravoV]

take out the fuses and leave them out... and suddenly that meter is much safer...

Interestingly, did a poll while ago on people using DMM for measuring current -> [POLL] Multimeter current measurement, how often do you use it ?

[yada]

This one is the best! Made in Austria not china so I know the electricity is better. The current mode seems unbelievably quick when it comes to saving things from blowing themselves up. Not cheap though although I got mine cheap due to them putting the wrong price tag on it ( 1/10 the price!). I have actually used its hand heldness too! I would like to put it on a scope to see how clean the signal is but as far as I can tell its about as noisy as running off a battery compared to other supplies.

[Electro Detective]

take out the fuses and leave them out... and suddenly that meter is much safer...

Interestingly, did a poll while ago on people using DMM for measuring current -> [POLL] Multimeter current measurement, how often do you use it ?

I just voted and I'm in the quite rare majority of more than 1% , <= 25% Quite rare      28 (35.9%

Good quality clamp meters save a lot of time and headache on most jobs and the readings are good enough,
if I need ultra accuracy and precision, then I break the circuit and use a good multimeter with HRC fuses and FUSED LEADS.

BTW, who sells those input socket blockers, plugs ? what are they called?  ('thingies' is not a word afaik)

[BravoV]

BTW, who sells those input socket blockers, plugs ? what are they called?  ('thingies' is not a word afaik)

It came as standard accessory with Fluke 287/289.

I love them as I rarely use DMM to measure current my self, and over the time, usually those exposed sockets are filled with dust/dirt or worst tiny crawly thingy.

[ebastler]

This one is the best!

... and nevertheless, if you try to use it as a multimeter, you will be in trouble! 
Wrong thread?