heat the lower side of the board before moving to the top
Try heating from both sides at the same time, a pre-heater underneath, and once the bard got hot let it running while adding an extra heat (at higher temperature) from above, only where the chip to desolder is. That was very help for SMD, but I wouldn't try hot air at all for 8bit vintage computers and alike through holes.
The most successful way to desolder those (from when I was builsing Z80 computers) was to use a syringe needle of 0.8mm external diameter. It's inner diameter was just right so a normal IC pin can fit inside the needle's hole, like this:
That is meant to be used with a normal soldering gun or iron. Put the needle on top of the pin, and rotate the needle while heating the solder pad. Eventually the solder will melt, and the needle will "cover" the pin, passing through the PCB hole. Once it passed through the other side, remove the soldering iron and keep twisting the needle back and forth (so the solder wont stick to the needle), until the solder pad solidifies back. Do that for each pin of the IC. In the end, the IC will almost fall out by itself. Works very well for those IC for which the pins were bent to anchor the IC to the PCB (at the factory, before soldering). Second picture is to illustrate the idea better, that IC was never soldered there.
I wouldn't try hot air on anything through-hole technology. In case you don't have the right needle diameter, there are ready-made desoldering needle tools (with a handle, too).
If you already have had success desoldering THT chips with hot air, and only need some reusable heat deflectors, maybe cut out a silicone mat for the shape of a single IC, or DIY some funnels-like out of aluminium foil (to guide all the hot air only on top of the chip to desolder). There are some single-use food plates (and disposable launch-boxes) made out of a much thicker Al foil then normal Al wrapping foil. I used the thicker material a few times. It can easily be formed in the desired shape, yet it is thick enough to maintain its form.
As for reusable kapton-like, cutting out template forms from a silicon mat should work. There are some 5mm thick translucent "soldering-helper" silicon mats, too, and they are outstanding heat isolators. There are some high-temperature resistant silicon mats (sold as mats for oven cooking), in case you want thinner material than the soldering silicon mats.
Another aspect to the 5mm thick soldering silicon mat is that the material is also a great reflector for heat, so if you just sit the PCB on the silicone mat and heat with air from above, all the heat that manage to pass through to the other side of the PCB, will be reflected back to the PCB. The reflected heat from the mat helps almost as much as a preheater. The material looks like these:
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=translucent+silicone+mat+high+temperature+resistant&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images (the one I've tried so far is the translucent/slightly transparent kind).