Author Topic: Laptop charger loose contact, replace plug without problems possible? or buy new  (Read 1983 times)

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Offline phoberusTopic starter

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Hey people.

The charger of my Acer Aspire VN7-593G has a strong loose contact and the cable gets warm directly under the bend protection of the plug when I found the right position for charging. Nothing can be seen from the outside. The power supply is an ADP-180MB K with 19.5V 9.23A (180W) and has a 5.5mm x 1.7mm power plug.
Normally I try to repair everything if possible. However, I can't find any 5.5x1.7mm replacement plugs and I've always avoided soldering. Some no-name power supply from Amazon costs about 45.-, the original about double.
To my questions:
  • Can I solder a 5.5 x 2.1mm plug to it and then use an adapter to 1.7mm? I can find a lot of adapters for the plug, but no information on how much voltage and amps it supports.
  • As a beginner in soldering, can I do this safely?
  • Or should I rather buy an Amazon power supply for it? I'm not sure if that is safer, looks like some china electronics :)

The laptop is older and I want to buy a new one in the near future. But until then, it still has to run every day.
Thanks for any help.
 

Offline liaifat85

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I think you need to buy one ASAP. Any mistake in soldering can bring big hazards in this case.
 

Offline phoberusTopic starter

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I think you need to buy one ASAP. Any mistake in soldering can bring big hazards in this case.

OK, thanks. Do you think these Amazon power supplies are safe?

It was clear to me that you have to be careful when soldering. I thought it wouldn't be too difficult because there are only 2 poles and the soldering contacts are a comfortable size. The positive pole is on the inside, as it says on the power supply unit. So I would only have to recognise the poles by the colour of the cut cable or with a multimeter.
 

Offline inse

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It shouldn’t be a problem to fix the charge plug problem.
If it’s an available part, get a new plug, if it’s a custom dimension I usually make a cut alongside the PVC sleeve and pull it off.
After that clip away a piece of the cable and slide some heatshrink over.
Then resolder, re-fit the sleeve with some hotmelt and cover it with the heatshrink.
That should work for the time being.
« Last Edit: July 04, 2023, 02:16:46 pm by inse »
 

Offline BILLPOD

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Coax power connectors can be purchased with short cables attached, so only splicing together is required.  Or get some of these 'extenders' and cut off  the half you need, (and save the female end for another project.)
https://www.amazon.com/SIOCEN-Security-Extension-Surveillance-Standalone/dp/B07Y7XTBF7/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=coaxial+power+connector&qid=1688477169&sr=8-19
 

Offline BrokenYugo

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I usually look on ebay for a "pigtail" (just the DC cable/connector component of the power brick) and splice that on, or buy a whole China house fire brick for the cheapest available, cut the cord off to use, and scrap the rest.

For example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/301130445427

Re the amazon power supply linked, anything with a brand like "shefor" should be avoided, that's the unsafe stuff, the cheap and safe solution here to reuse the brick and just put a new connector or cable on it.
« Last Edit: July 04, 2023, 03:17:41 pm by BrokenYugo »
 

Offline phoberusTopic starter

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Thanks a lot for these great answers. I will buy this pigtail:
For example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/301130445427

For this solution, is splicing the cables together with some heat-shrink butt connectors safe?
Or better solder the cables and protect it with normal heat shrinks?
I have already stumbled over the charging cable and then there should be no short circuit in the best case. :-DD
 

Offline BrokenYugo

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Quite frankly the type/quality of splice is up to you, most important is that you pay attention to polarity, best to double check with a meter which wire of each cable is center and barrel, then double check when done by measuring the DC on the plug. I've been lazy before and just used staggered Western Union splices and tape, worked fine, I guess that would be my recommended minimum.
 

Offline bdunham7

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Are there screws under the rubber feet?  If you can split the case, the best solution is to replace the whole cord.  If you don't have ANY experience soldering, etc, find someone willing to help you.  If the case splits, this is an easy repair for anyone with a moderate amount of experience, but a danger for the complete noob.
A 3.5 digit 4.5 digit 5 digit 5.5 digit 6.5 digit 7.5 digit DMM is good enough for most people.
 

Offline phoberusTopic starter

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Are there screws under the rubber feet?  If you can split the case, the best solution is to replace the whole cord.  If you don't have ANY experience soldering, etc, find someone willing to help you.  If the case splits, this is an easy repair for anyone with a moderate amount of experience, but a danger for the complete noob.
Yes, there are screws and my Torx TX9 fits in.
I will try to open it tomorrow. If there are simple 2-pole screw terminals inside, then it is no problem for me to replace the whole cable and check it with the multimeter.
 

Offline Shonky

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Unlikely there'll be screw terminals inside. Maybe a crimped terminal connector if you're lucky.

Either way be careful opening the power supply - mains voltages inside.
 

Offline bdunham7

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Yes, there are screws and my Torx TX9 fits in.
I will try to open it tomorrow. If there are simple 2-pole screw terminals inside, then it is no problem for me to replace the whole cable and check it with the multimeter.

I'm 99% certain it will be soldered to the board.  It's definitely worthwhile to find someone to do that for you--much better than an off-brand replacement.
A 3.5 digit 4.5 digit 5 digit 5.5 digit 6.5 digit 7.5 digit DMM is good enough for most people.
 


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