Today when i wanted to turn off ligting in aquarium, it refused to turn off and instead lighting dimmed very little. The as i raised top cover, the lighting turned off and then again on and started blinking similarly as to rapidly turning lighting off and on repeatedly. In this video you won't notice dimming but you will see that switch doesn't turn off lighting:
Button does not turn off lighting anymore and the only way to do that is to unplug the plug from wall outlet which is obviously less preferrable. Here is under-lid view of the switch:
Will appreciate advice for beginner electrician. Cheers!
The lid of an aquarium is typically a bad place for a switch to live. If you decide to replace it, use some contact grease on any crimped terminations. A moisture IP rated switch will last much longer than a switch not intended for wet environments. Another option is hardwire (bypass) the switch in the lid and move the switch to a inline source. ie: power strip
-sj
The lid of an aquarium is typically a bad place for a switch to live. If you decide to replace it, use some contact grease on any crimped terminations. A moisture IP rated switch will last much longer than a switch not intended for wet environments. Another option is hardwire (bypass) the switch in the lid and move the switch to a inline source. ie: power strip
-sj
Thanks.
Should i first attempt to dismount the switch, disassemble it and see if there is any problem inside, fix if there is and mount it back but this time isolating any crimped terminations with aquarium-safe silicone? Silicone because i don't have aquarium-safe contact grease. Maybe i could even find transparent plastic to enclose switch in...
Or i should take second option of cutting power strip from both sides connecting the switch, take it out, isolate wires (dangerous because there is splashes inside the lid?) and install switch outside of aquarium's lid?
perhaps, Unplug it (you may not be this silly but later lurkers may) open it up clean it out and grease the contacts, then seal up the box on the rim when you close it with some aquarium safe silicone, enough to seal it but not so much that you wouldnt be able to reopen it later, and obviously, after give it a cleanout and grease, Close it back up and test before sealing it, this will get you close to a ip 64 rating, which generally covers aquariums (low powered jets from all practical angles) and hit any wire glands with some silicon aswell,
Close it back up and test before sealing it, this will get you close to a ip 64 rating, which generally covers aquariums (low powered jets from all practical angles) and hit any wire glands with some silicon aswell,
What is IP 64 rating? I am non-US resident.
Opened switch and some water came out. This is what i see inside:
Looks like the mounting box is water resistant but that rocker switch is not, If it was mine I would remove the switch and just switch the light from the wall socket.
Looks like the mounting box is water resistant but that rocker switch is not, If it was mine I would remove the switch and just switch the light from the wall socket.
Everytime you would plug it to socket located in an inconvenient to reach place? And if you removed switch, what would you do with gap between wires? Would you solder wires and isolate them appropriately? And why not just place switch outside of cover?
from the look of it, that rocker switch is a generic one, local electronics stores in aus like jaycar have waterproof drop in replacements for them, just make sure you measure twice buy once, if you do that, seal along hte edge of the new one, and regrease the oring, then you should have a perfectly functioning one, while i would be inclined to replace the whole switch unit myself, swapping out for a matching part is safer and easier,
cap
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SK0970&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=978#1and guessing this size switch
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SK0984&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=978#1
How do i unscrew this wire's rusty connector:
Please note that i have recently smeared silicone around this connector because i thought it was letting water inside bulb's compartment.
Angle grinder and a thin metal cutting disc. Then buy a new lamp holder and put it in.
With mine I placed the new ballast ( magnetic, after the electronic one blew up in under a year)behind the tank on the frame and put all the electrical connections outside the lid ( the new tube is long enough that the connections are outside the lid and stay dry) so that they are all dry. The fish do appreciate the extra light, and they just love the water plants, which almost grow faster than they are eaten.
Short of actual breakage of the switch parts, the most likely cause of failure is some material between the switch contacts. If the switch motion feels OK when the rocker is rocked, likely it is "dirty" contacts, i.e. not necessarily dirt (after all, how would it get in?), but dried grease. They lube switches, but after many years, the lube dries out and becomes an impediment to the contacts touching.
If you can open the switch without destroying it, fine. Sometimes the rocker is just snapped into the body and can be pried out with a small screwdriver, allowing it to be put back later. Inspect the contacts for deep pitting. If they are pitted, smooth them with a burnishing tool or some piece of smooth metal. Then clean things up and re-lube it. Else you can drill small holes on both sides, pour in a plastics-safe solvent and work the rocker as it drips out, carrying away the dried grease. Or you might just soften up the grease enough for things to work again. Start with 91% isopropyl alcohol, which you can get at most drug stores/chemists. Then pour in some light oil, work the rocker and let it drip dry onto a paper towel.
If there are broken parts, you may have to substitute another switch. If it is a smaller switch, you might have to fashen a mounting plate that mimics the original switch plate to seal the box, if the box is really important. If you can find an ordinary SPST quick-connect terminal rocker switch that will fit the opening in the lid, you could dispense with the box entirely by simply mounting the switch on the lid and surrounding the switch body and wiring with a very thick coating of silicon goop. After all, all you are after is keeping the moisture out.
These kinds of switches abound on appliances nowaday, e.g. coffee makers. If nothing else, you can open one up to examine how they are built, where the grease is, etc. It might even be worth it to ask neighbors or visit thrift shops or even a used appliance shop for some crappy appliance that has a similar switch.
Did you get the light locally? If so, the dealer may have a light that is cracked or otherwise defective from which you could retrieve the switch.
Start with 91% isopropyl alcohol, which you can get at most drug stores/chemists.
Was running around local drug stores and pharmacies and could not find such solution with that high content of isopropyl. However one drug store owner told me that they also prepare specific solutions. Don't know if better to buy prepared solution or one from get-go.
Did you get the light locally? If so, the dealer may have a light that is cracked or otherwise defective from which you could retrieve the switch.
@CampKohler Thanks for your reply.
Now the bulb I bought for my fishtank and replaced with one that burned previously. But I have fixed the problem finally. As I opened switch, volume of water came out of it which might be the cause of switch failure to turn bulb off. I gave switch to dry and then re-assembled but now with silicone and so far so good. I also but silicone on wires that enter the switch from both sides just for additional safety.
Was running around local drug stores and pharmacies and could not find such solution with that high content of isopropyl. However one drug store owner told me that they also prepare specific solutions. Don't know if better to buy prepared solution or one from get-go.
It doesn't have to be Isopropyl... Ethanol, grain alcohol, moonshine, denatured alcohol, etc.
-sj
It doesn't have to be Isopropyl... Ethanol, grain alcohol, moonshine, denatured alcohol, etc.
-sj
And in case with optics? I heard isopropyl must be used and nothing else.
A very good place to get pure alcohol is commercial motor factors (truck parts suppliers) it is used as an anti freeze in air brakes. It is sold in 5 or 25 liter cans and is cheap. When they ask for a name for the invoice just give your own and stick engineering after it that satisfies the the tick boxes, and pay cash.
With optics it depends. Uncoated optics can be cleaned with either ethanol or distilled water and detergent. If the optics are coated, you can only use distilled water and a detergent. Certain coats though are marked as cleanable with alcohol, but unfortunately you cannot tell just by looking at the film.
With optics it depends. Uncoated optics can be cleaned with either ethanol or distilled water and detergent. If the optics are coated, you can only use distilled water and a detergent. Certain coats though are marked as cleanable with alcohol, but unfortunately you cannot tell just by looking at the film.
I also read that no other solution than isopropyl should be used for cleaning electronics. Correct?