| Electronics > Beginners |
| Looking for help selecting a budget multi-meter. I'm quite overwhelmed. |
| << < (6/7) > >> |
| windsmurf:
--- Quote from: BoredSysAdm on May 14, 2019, 02:33:34 pm ---Thanks everyone for responses and sharing your experience. I don't need DMM to kick around my toolbox and play soccer with it. slightly more delicate is ok. Accuracy and speed are more important. I guess that means Fluke is out for reasons above. Lass poll: Used Greenlee DM-820 (maybe 820A) or New UNI-T UT61E ? --- End quote --- UT61E has no backlight, which might be inconvenient. UT139C might be a better choice depending on your need... more features but slightly less accurate. |
| Cnoob:
Is there a makers club/electronics club locally where you can have a look at selection of DMM. Online reviews as good as they are they don't tell you what you expect from a meter. Examples. The uni-t 61e has a high burden voltage on mA range but people rave about it. The Brymen BM257 takes a second or two to settle when taking readings i.e it will flicker to 2.45 when reading 2.41DCV . (It may be just mine. My Flukes, Hioki and Keysight other Brymen do not do it.) My Flukes, Hioki and Keysight instil the most confidence when taking readings, their count error does not vary that much regardless of the DCV (0V and 31V) one or two counts. Between the Fluke289 and Hioki DT4282 the difference is one count regardless what the voltage is and between my Fluke 87V and Fluke 117 (replacing my Uni-t crap) the difference is one or two counts at the most. If you are use to flukes and like them you maybe disappointed with a cheap brand. |
| ejeffrey:
--- Quote from: rstofer on May 14, 2019, 08:13:12 pm --- --- Quote from: BoredSysAdm on May 14, 2019, 02:33:34 pm ---Accuracy and speed are more important. I guess that means Fluke is out for reasons above. --- End quote --- My theory of test equipment (assuming adequate funds): If you want to SEE a signal, buy Tektronics. If you want to MEASURE a signal, buy Fluke. Everything else is just something else. Not that I can afford Tektronix but I do have a Fluke 189 which was around $400 some years back. It's a great meter but I still reach for the little Aneng 8008. Here's the thing about lots of digits: Suppose you can measure 1 part in a million. Can you adjust 1 part in a million? 1 part in 10 million? If you can't adjust it, why measure it? If a mouse farts nearby, will you have to recalibrate the meter or the device under test? --- End quote --- The fluke 189/289 is a great meter, but it is $$$. If you can afford it or find a good deal on one, by all means get it. It will do everything most people need out of a DMM meter and more. My problem is with the "fluke or nothing" attitude. It frequently leads new hobbyists to believe that they need a fluke. Since they typically can't afford an 87 or 289 they end up getting a used 77 or a 117 or one of the many other ~6000 count electricians meters that Fluke makes. I don't think those meters have the accuracy, resolution, and range selections to make them an appropriate first/only meter for most electronics hobbyists and at the price point there are many options that are much better for that application. Now if someone asks for a recommendation for automotive or electrical work, or any kind of field work, those fluke meters would be at the top of my list. |
| Shock:
--- Quote from: ejeffrey on May 15, 2019, 03:55:11 am ---The fluke 189/289 is a great meter, but it is $$$. If you can afford it or find a good deal on one, by all means get it. It will do everything most people need out of a DMM meter and more. My problem is with the "fluke or nothing" attitude. It frequently leads new hobbyists to believe that they need a fluke. Since they typically can't afford an 87 or 289 they end up getting a used 77 or a 117 or one of the many other ~6000 count electricians meters that Fluke makes. I don't think those meters have the accuracy, resolution, and range selections to make them an appropriate first/only meter for most electronics hobbyists and at the price point there are many options that are much better for that application. --- End quote --- I don't think anyone is saying Fluke or nothing. But you can pickup a used Fluke 87 for $100 on Ebay without too much work, or two Fluke 27/FM so there is no reason to exclude them. The Fluke 117 can be used for electronics but best complements a better second meter. Decent gear doesn't necessarily need to be expensive or laden with features, it's what you do with it that counts. For personal use I would only buy a new piece of test equipment if I couldn't find it secondhand, but that isn't everyone's cup of tea. Most peoples perspective will change once they have a more expensive meter. I brought a cheap Fluke 114 on Ebay with the intention of trading it into a Fluke 117. After a bit of trawling I picked up a Fluke 87V and 117, sold the Fluke 114 for $30 profit. The total spend ended up being $120 and a few hours cleaning up the Fluke 87V, the extra $890 to buy them new here is a bit harsh. |
| BoredSysAdm:
Well, after long enough consideration I've decided to go with Uni-T UT61E. Yes, a backlight would be nice to have, but I think there are mods for that (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut61e-backlight-mod-with-touch-sensor-(tutorial)) Bought it on eBay from a veteran seller with 19k and over 99% positive feedback for $49.90. Safety according to EEVBlog's DMMs spreadsheet isn't greatest but should be enough to test 120v ac (i think) I kept looking for the really awesome deals, but nothing really caught my eye. I've spent more than enough time on this. If I ever take it seriously, it seems like bench equipment would the next logical and yet budget-friendly update. Big thanks to everyone for suggestions and advice. I highly value all it. p.s: Something I've found to read that DDM table much easier was to upload it to google spreadsheets |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |