Electronics > Beginners
Make Electronics book 2nd edition components list?
<< < (3/10) > >>
scatterandfocus:
Just so others know, this stuff takes a while.  I have probably put in around 10 hours so far in making a components list and adding maybe 1/3 of the list to my cart.  But that includes looking up various component specifications and reading other useful information along the way.  I can see that this is going to be maybe a 3 or 4 day project.  But if I just bought kits, I wouldn't be learning anything about the components that I am choosing.

Also, I ran into a couple more components that I can't find at Tada.  Single AA battery holder.  I am substituting for a double AA battery holder and will use a jumper for a single battery.  Low current LED's (forward current of 3.5mA or less).

Once I clean up my components list so that it is more legible for others, I will add it to this thread along with notes about missing values, substitutions, and such.
ledtester:

--- Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 12, 2019, 04:12:02 pm ---  But I'm still wondering if there should be any problems mixing various types of caps.  And I'm just curious to look at analog signatures of different types of caps on an oscilloscope.

--- End quote ---

There shouldn't be any problems mixing capacitor types.

And don't sweat the capacitor values. They are at best 5% parts anyway.


--- Quote ---Also, I ran into a couple more components that I can't find at Tada.  Single AA battery holder.  I am substituting for a double AA battery holder and will use a jumper for a single battery.  Low current LED's (forward current of 3.5mA or less).

--- End quote ---

LED technology has vastly improved over the years. They have become brighter and much more efficient. Instead of the conventional 330R resistor for driving an LED with 5V I now routinely use 1K. 10mA used to be the norm for driving LEDs, but in my experience all recently produced LEDs will illuminate adequately at just a few milliamps.
bd139:

--- Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 12, 2019, 04:12:02 pm ---I ran into some missing capacitor values at Tada (book says that either electrolytic or ceramic are ok for all caps):  15uF, 68uF

For sake of getting all the caps in the same place (possibly saving on shipping cost), and since this is non-critical beginner breadboard stuff, I think it should be ok combining two caps that add up close to the required values such as:

6.8uF + 10uF = 16.8uF in place of 15uF
47uF + 22uF = 69uF, in place of 68uF

It seems that this shouldn't be a problem since the book says that all caps should be at least 16V and other ratings are of no concern, which I also assume includes tolerance.  The book calls for electrolytic and ceramic caps, saying that it doesn't matter which are used but that it is recommended to use ceramic for values below 10uF because of price.  Any way, Tada has neither electrolytic or ceramic for these missing values (15uF and 68uF), but they do have tantalum values that could be added to electrolytic values.  It seems a bit odd to do that, and I don't know if it would cause problems.  Maybe I will just get these missing values (and other missing components) elsewhere.  But I'm still wondering if there should be any problems mixing various types of caps.  And I'm just curious to look at analog signatures of different types of caps on an oscilloscope.

--- End quote ---

This is all typical annoyances and you’re approaching it the correct way. When I design anything I spend a hell of a lot of time doing parts optimisation to try and keep things to the E3 (10 22 47) values where possible so I don’t have to buy and keep a lot of parts in.

As for mixing capacitors don’t worry about this to start with. Only thing to worry about is getting your electrolytics and tantalum capacitors the wrong way round. When you progress you’ll learn about what caps to use where. There are some simple rules to follow.
scatterandfocus:
I just noticed that I have been typing Tada instead of Tayda.  Doc said my eyes are good.  Where can I get glasses for my brain?

ledtester, I only see LED's on Tayda with either 20mA or 30mA forward current.  It's no big deal, as I'm sure that I will have to order some components from at least one other place.  But I do prefer getting the bulk of the components from a single source to save on shipping cost and so that I don't get 50 packages in the mail.  The mail lady already hates me after my recent round of buying old analog boat anchor test gear.  She already pretends sometimes to have attempted to deliver stuff (leaves it in her truck) so that she doesn't have to carry it to the front door, and I have to go pick it up the next day.  If I keep it up she might start making my packages disappear.

bd139, is E3 a common term / design principle, or is that a personal thing?

bd139:
Sounds like Royal Mail here  :-DD

E-series is defined here better than I can : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E_series_of_preferred_numbers

I mostly optimise my designs because I don't want to have to go shopping every time I come up with a design. I just want to hit the bench and build it! Turns out with some head scratching you can make some careful compromises and still come out with perfectly functional circuits. A good piece of inspiration is from Ashhar Farhan who designed an entire SSB transceiver with this in mind. Literally very few different parts (line items) required:



A good exception to note above is that there's 1x 120K resistor in there. They are all 5% tolerance so you can just shove a 100k and 22k in series which are both E3 series. To make compromises like that rather than having to hunt down a 120k resistor is very very productive.

From a manufacturing point of view it makes things simpler still.
Navigation
Message Index
Next page
Previous page
There was an error while thanking
Thanking...

Go to full version
Powered by SMFPacks Advanced Attachments Uploader Mod