EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Beginners => Topic started by: djsb on March 02, 2024, 11:34:58 am
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I'm thinking of trying out building a circuit using the Manhattan construction technique.
I have gathered a few things together.
1/ Limerick construction pads and Island cutter kit from QRPme (https://www.qrpme.com/ (https://www.qrpme.com/)) and (http://qrpme.com/pages/HBREW.php (http://qrpme.com/pages/HBREW.php))
2/ Downloaded this (http://qrpme.com/docs/K7QO%20Manhattan.pdf (http://qrpme.com/docs/K7QO%20Manhattan.pdf)) and this (https://viennawireless.net/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/KK4DAS-Manhattan-Style-Homebrew-052220.pdf (https://viennawireless.net/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/KK4DAS-Manhattan-Style-Homebrew-052220.pdf))
And there are a few other guides I have downloaded that are scattered in various places.
I haven't actually tried this yet hence my posting in the beginners section. Does anyone use this for their prototyping and if so can you add any tips, tricks or gotchas (or traps for young players as Dave would say) that they can share? For instance, what is the best way to design a layout? There is software for stripboard layout. But I'm not aware of any for Manhattan layout. Is pencil and paper all there is? Any tips on this?Thanks.
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I'm thinking of trying out building a circuit using the Manhattan construction technique.
I have gathered a few things together.
1/ Limerick construction pads and Island cutter kit from QRPme (https://www.qrpme.com/ (https://www.qrpme.com/)) and (http://qrpme.com/pages/HBREW.php (http://qrpme.com/pages/HBREW.php))
2/ Downloaded this (http://qrpme.com/docs/K7QO%20Manhattan.pdf (http://qrpme.com/docs/K7QO%20Manhattan.pdf)) and this (https://viennawireless.net/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/KK4DAS-Manhattan-Style-Homebrew-052220.pdf (https://viennawireless.net/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/KK4DAS-Manhattan-Style-Homebrew-052220.pdf))
And there are a few other guides I have downloaded that are scattered in various places.
I haven't actually tried this yet hence my posting in the beginners section. Does anyone use this for their prototyping and if so can you add any tips, tricks or gotchas (or traps for young players as Dave would say) that they can share? For instance, what is the best way to design a layout? There is software for stripboard layout. But I'm not aware of any for Manhattan layout. Is pencil and paper all there is? Any tips on this?Thanks.
Useful links; thanks.
Some other ideas, tricks, components, and other techniques are at https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2020/07/22/prototyping-circuits-easy-cheap-fast-reliable-techniques/ (https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2020/07/22/prototyping-circuits-easy-cheap-fast-reliable-techniques/)
TL;DR is choose the best combination of techniques for your project.
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I like using wire wrap wire or the easy solder magnet wire for connections. Decoupling capacitors and high value resistors can be used as standoffs.
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An example for really small SMD - 0.5mm pith VQFN. (XBUF802)
The pads and the chip are held in place by superglue. The wires pulled from a USB cable’s shielding, it was the finest I can found.
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I'm cutting small squares from a bigger piece of double sided PCB copper clad, with a hand scissors for metal sheets. Alternatively the PCB can be scratched first, then break with pliers along the previously made scratch. Rotary tools are not very good for cutting fiberglass substrate PCB, because fiberglass debris is nasty for lungs if inhaled.
Do NOT use superglue to glue the small squares on top of the copper clad. Cyanoacrylate makes nasty fumes when heated. Instead, solder the small squares of double sided PCB by normal soldering them on top of the copper clad.
Cleaning the copper very well before soldering helps a lot. I'm using the abrasive side of a kitchen sponge (the ones with normal sponge with one abrasive, not metal sponge) and a drop of water. If you don't have that type of kitchen sponge, toothpaste on a piece of cloth works as a fine abrasive, then once the copper is shinny, rinse the PCB with cold water and dry the PCB without wiping it (either with compressed air or by keeping it for a few seconds at 20-50cm in the hot air above a gas stove, or by using a hot air station, etc.).
In case you didn't watch these already:
#123: Build a crystal oscillator from schematic thru prototype construction and testing - DIY
w2aew
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blalAktxFoI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blalAktxFoI)
#122: Electronic Circuit Construction Techniques: review of some prototype circuit building methods
w2aew
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH110yjYZ2g (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH110yjYZ2g)
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I have built several radio projects using “Manhattan” techniques. I use plain copper clad PCB board, and a tubular diamond tipped tile drill mounted in a drill stand. You set the stand to drill just through the copper, which leaves a small island of copper. Drill as many areas as you like.
The “got ya” is to thoroughly clean the board afterwards, beware of microscopic strands of copper shorting pads to the surrounding copper. Once the board is working correctly, a light spray of PCB lacquer (polyurethane varnish by another name) will help prevent any debris shorting out the pads in the future.
SJ
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Here's another message thread that may give you a few hints:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/recommended-way-to-make-a-permanent-one-off-circuit/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/recommended-way-to-make-a-permanent-one-off-circuit/)
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I recommend copper foil pads on single sided FR4. I found out about the foil right after I made a large number of FR4 pads. I used a small 4" hobby saw set at 45 degrees to score FR4, but punching round pads is also popular.
Best part is at 3 mm wide copper foil is very close to 50 ohm microstrip.
Have Fun!
Reg