Noob here. Which adjustable power supply should I get?

[rotaryfurball]

Hey, noob here. I hope to use this to test for my race drones, lipo chargers, and eboards.
I'm wondering which one I should get?

Link:
https://www.banggood.com/YIHUA-3005D-110V220V-30V-5A-Mini-Switching-Regulated-Adjustable-DC-Power-Supply-p-1290150.html?rmmds=search&ID=523699&cur_warehouse=CN
Second Link:
https://www.banggood.com/110V220V-0-30V-0-10A-Adjustable-Digital-DC-Power-Supply-Switching-Power-Supply-p-1121229.html?rmmds=search&ID=3426&cur_warehouse=CN

[ataradov]

I can highly recommend KORAD KA3005D. Its price is in the same rage as that YIHUA, but it is a linear supply, and I guess of much better quality.

[bitman]

My first bench PSU was a single lead like yours are. That served me well for about a year or so, but slowly things started getting more complex and I needed to do negative voltages and other stuff, so I ended up having to purchase a second PSU with 3 outputs. While most of my stuff is very low voltage, the 3 feed allows you to do really cool things on the bread-board

[rrinker]

 I have two, an old HP E3610 (none of this Keysight rubbish, as Dave is wont to say), only a single output, which is my favorite. I also got one of the dual output ones from the ITT selloff a couple of years ago (a GW Instek) which has dual variable plus a fixed 5V output. I don;t do much analog, so my need for a dual rail power supply for things like op amps is minimal at best, so I almost always end up using the HP to power my projects. If you are planning to work a lot with devices that need +/- power supply rails to function, definitely look to one of the dual output models.
 Until the ITT selloff came up and those units started appearing on eBay for relatively low prices, I was planning to get the Korad. I probably would have been happy with that one as well.

[Inverted18650]

Save some cash, get a couple of these little switching units. You can power them from batteries, an old laptop charger,  or an AC transformer with a bridge rectifier. They work very well.


https://www.banggood.com/D3806-NC-DC-Constant-Current-Power-Supply-Step-Down-Module-Voltage-Ammeter-p-1059235.html?cur_warehouse=CN

[rdl]

If I could only keep only one of the power supplies I now own, I'd choose my Tektronix CPS250.



If I needed a new power supply today, I'd probably go for one from Korad. I actually think that buying used, quality brand power supplies is the best way to go, but I understand the reasons for wanting to buy new.

[beanflying]

Hey, noob here. I hope to use this to test for my race drones, lipo chargers, and eboards.
I'm wondering which one I should get?

If you want to 'test' your drones you will be needing a lot more current than 5 or 10A. The first hardcore Power supply I got was a Manson 60A 0-15V for R/C electrics and Helis which will be a little overkill for Drone testing. Something in the order of 30A would most likely do you. If this isn't that important to you then you can drop the current requirement a lot. Internally these Mansons are a long way in front of the average Chinese options http://www.manson.com.hk/products/dc-power-supplies/

If you just  want to run chargers consider running maybe two chargers (or more if you need to) you still need the current around 10A+ minimum (more like 15-20A) at maybe 0-15V. If you only want to run a single charger and keep an eye on the charge current then your 5A option would just do the job but you would be frustrated doing multiple packs.

Don't ask how many power supplies I have at present 

[fouad2008]

FMovies YesMovies SolarMovie
 I have two, an old HP E3610 (none of this Keysight rubbish, as Dave is wont to say), only a single output, which is my favorite. I also got one of the dual output ones from the ITT selloff a couple of years ago (a GW Instek) which has dual variable plus a fixed 5V output. I don;t do much analog, so my need for a dual rail power supply for things like op amps is minimal at best, so I almost always end up using the HP to power my projects. If you are planning to work a lot with devices that need +/- power supply rails to function, definitely look to one of the dual output models.
 Until the ITT selloff came up and those units started appearing on eBay for relatively low prices, I was planning to get the Korad. I probably would have been happy with that one as well.

Oddly, I have a (promotional?) card hanging on the wall of my cube with examples of the most common packages shrink-wrapped to it.  I don't remember its title, and don't see a picture of one online, offhand.  Hmm.

If it helps, SOT-23 is almost always SOT-23.  Digikey is very good about collecting the various mfg-specific designations into the right package.  The higher numbers and letters and gibberish designations tend to be the microscopic unsolderable packages, which you'll probably want to avoid as a beginner.

If all else fails, read the datasheet and check the dimensions.  Designations don't mean a thing, what did they actually make?

And yes, shopping for, and footprinting, components is no easier as a professional.  Welcome to the real world...