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Motorcycle dash button failed
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Various:

--- Quote from: AndyC_772 on November 11, 2019, 11:41:53 am ---Don't touch the LCD pins; I can virtually guarantee that you'll do more harm than good unless you're already experienced in this type of PCB rework./quote]

I hear you loud and clear! I'll give up before I take the soldering iron to those pins!


--- Quote from: m3vuv on November 11, 2019, 08:41:47 pm ---what make and model bike is it?

--- End quote ---

Yamaha Super Tenere XT1200Z.

I found a local tech repair company who went to the bother of setting up a website but don't answer the phone or reply to emails, so I'm back here!

In the attached photo there is a copper ring, after cleaning it up I can't get continuity across it from one side of the board to the other. Can somebody explain this component to me including its name please? To me, it looks like a copper 'rivet' which should have continuity across the board. There is another switch with the same setup and I do get continuity across that one.
--- End quote ---
Various:
Now that I have re-read the advice given to me previously, it is starting to make sense.

I have now found where the trace runs to (by using a continuity test) and proved it by inserting a wire between the two points as shown in the photo. I have tested this on the bike and it works!

1. Should I now be looking to solder a wire permanently in place to make the same link as the temporary wire shown?
2. Is the information in this video by Manchester University good?
4. Is it likely that this connection could affect another function? The bike obviously has other functions, an alarm, immobiliser etc so should I test the different functions before making the repair permanent?

Thanks for your help.
AndyC_772:
The feature you've circled looks like a through via, ie. a plated-through hole which forms a connection from one side of the board to the other. If it's a multi-layer board, it could connect to internal layers too.

If you don't measure continuity from one side of the board to the other, then that's good insofar as it means you've located an electrical fault that can be fixed. It may not be the only one, but you have to start somewhere.

Clean up both sides of it with a mild abrasive - emphasis on the "mild" - so you have clean, shiny copper exposed. Poke a short length of solid core wire through the hole and solder it on both sides, job done.
AndyC_772:
ps. the photo you've attached of a wire link is horrible.

Hanging a wire that fat and heavy off a couple of tiny vias is just asking for them to be ripped off the board under vibration, and that'll leave the board in a state which is much harder to repair. All those spare copper strands waving about in the breeze won't do any good if they touch anything else either; at the very, very least they should have been trimmed back to the insulation.

If that's the repair you need to do, use 30AWG solid core wire as advised above, and tack it to the PCB with superglue so it doesn't flap about. A couple of tiny dots are all you need, don't go mad with the glue, and don't get any on the solder joints just in case you ever need to repair them.
Various:

--- Quote from: AndyC_772 on November 17, 2019, 10:51:28 am ---ps. the photo you've attached of a wire link is horrible.

Hanging a wire that fat and heavy off a couple of tiny vias is just asking for them to be ripped off the board under vibration, and that'll leave the board in a state which is much harder to repair. All those spare copper strands waving about in the breeze won't do any good if they touch anything else either; at the very, very least they should have been trimmed back to the insulation.

If that's the repair you need to do, use 30AWG solid core wire as advised above, and tack it to the PCB with superglue so it doesn't flap about. A couple of tiny dots are all you need, don't go mad with the glue, and don't get any on the solder joints just in case you ever need to repair them.

--- End quote ---

Ha ha, sorry, that was just a bit of wire I had laying around and used it to test that I had found the correct parts. It is going in the bin soon!

So I can just superglue the new wire in place??? Brilliant!

I have read that the areas where I removed the mask should be re-coated with epoxy, is this correct?

Thanks again

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