Electronics > Beginners

my cook top hates my heatpump?

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noidea:

--- Quote from: inductive on October 30, 2019, 04:43:23 pm ---one qick question, what would a normal voltage balance be?
L to Ground: 116,3
N to Ground: 144,7
L+N:  229,4

--- End quote ---

This suggests that N is not actually Neutral but another phase, if Neutral was really a Neutral you would expect L-N= ~230vac, L-E=~230vac and N-E=0vac

Again I'm not familiar with IT wiring or Norwegian power but this suggests you may actually have two phase no neutral power supply.
https://www2.theiet.org/forums/forum/textthread.cfm?catid=205&threadid=88103&filtmsgid=581037

inductive:

--- Quote from: noidea on October 30, 2019, 04:49:51 pm ---Just a lowly non Electrial Engineer HVAC tech here but a few comments for the mix.

A 16kW unit is probably on a 30 Amp single phase supply.

I found what I think is the right service manual for your model on the net ERLQ011-016CV3 can you confirm the model number? If it is and the noise is only happening when the compressor in the heatpump is running then it most likely related to the active power factor correction circuit (V2R, V3R, V1T, L1R) section of the A1P board and not the power transistor module thats creating the three phase for the compressor.

I have worked mainly on other brands than Daikin but this style of Inverter power circuit design, with two bridge rectifiers, an IGBT and reactor coil is pretty common if a discrete active filter module is not being used.

If I had to guess I would suspect it is more a conducted than radiated emission issue as you said you can hear some noise on your desktop PC as well. I would guarantee that the AC unit is compliant to the relevant test standards Japanese manufacturers tend to be pretty honest about this, but it will be very tight to the standard.

The IT wiring system is interesting, the A3P board contains the noise filtering circuit and should be bleeding the noise in the unit to ground. In Australia we use TN-C-S and I know from experience faults in the earthing / neutral earth bonding tend to make noise issues worse here.

I'm sorry I can't really offer much in the way of how you actually test this in the field, I would like to know myself  :)

--- End quote ---

2x 32A breakers

the indoor unit is a  EHVH16S26CB9W and the outdoor is: ERLQ016CAV3

and YES. it only happens when the compressor runs

inductive:

--- Quote from: noidea on October 30, 2019, 05:00:48 pm ---
--- Quote from: inductive on October 30, 2019, 04:43:23 pm ---one qick question, what would a normal voltage balance be?
L to Ground: 116,3
N to Ground: 144,7
L+N:  229,4

--- End quote ---

This suggests that N is not actually Neutral but another phase, if Neutral was really a Neutral you would expect L-N= ~230vac, L-E=~230vac and N-E=0vac

Again I'm not familiar with IT wiring or Norwegian power but this suggests you may actually have two phase no neutral power supply.
https://www2.theiet.org/forums/forum/textthread.cfm?catid=205&threadid=88103&filtmsgid=581037

--- End quote ---

L1 and L2. but all terminals are labeled L and N on the new stuff as TN is the "new" standard that is being built

Berni:
Ah yeah you have the weird Norwegian 230V Delta wired 3 phase thing.

For those that don't know about it here is what its about. Most in Europe tends to use a 230V Star 3 phase system so that from each phase to neutral you have 230V and between phase is 400V. But for some reason some places like Norway have it the other way around where they have 230V between phases but as a result only ~130V between phase and neutral. So as a result they have to run 230V loads between two phases much like the Americans get there 220V in there split phase systems that are popular for residential there. This is a problem however if you try to run a 3 phase load as it will not get the 400V it expects, so a step up transformer is required to run those. Inversely if you bring a 3 phase motor wound for this 230V between phases and plug it into regular 400V 3 phase you will blow things up (Tho such a motor should run just fine if you wire it into only delta mode).

As for the imbalance in voltages it should not be too much of a concern. Since this is a delta configuration means there is no neutral wire in the distribution network back to the transformer and your neutral is actually your local earth, this is fine because as far as i know you should not power any loads between one phase and neutral in this system. By the way this delta system is used all over Europe too, but only on transmission lines between transformer substations because it only requires 3 wires as opposed to the 4 in a star configuration that is typically used for final low voltage distribution.

As for the noise, yeah i can confirm heat pumps spew out a lot of conducted noise. They have a 3 phase VFD inside and to get the DC rail for it there is a PFC boost converter. My particular Viessman brand heatpump has a massive mains filter installed inside it right where the mains comes in, but it does still spew out quite a bit of noise. Since these huge IGBT power converters tend to operate at low frequencies <100KHz its possible they have ducked under the conducted EMI regulations and its possible the inductive cooker is especially sensitive to a certain frequency range. If that 229V is with the heat pump running full power then the voltage is definitely stable enough. Also make sure that your induction cooker is wired up properly as i have seen 2 phase connection being quite common with them, but its actually just two separate cookers inside each fed by its own live. This is to allow you to spread the ridiculously powerful 6kW ones across two phases of 3kW or wire the two phases together for single phase 6kW input. Its possible the cooker is just about tolerant enough to work at 130V input but when the heat pump gets going it dips enough to cut it out.

inductive:
so. what you are saying is that the cooker "can" be internally connected to just ONE of the phases? (splitting one phase to the oven, and one to the induction top?). well. that could be. i don't know. might have to open it up to have a look

but the oven part is working flawless either way. its only the induction top that is having an issue

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