EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Beginners => Topic started by: Peabody on December 01, 2024, 05:49:19 am
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These used to be widely available, but now I can't find them. Does anyone know of a source?
(https://d2x7gdstplisc7.cloudfront.net/.tmp/assets/_site_/images/products/proto-pcb/1200x/padded/1200x/FFFFFF/bread-proto-a.jpg)
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Digikey has these,
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/SBB830-QTY10/5978205 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/SBB830-QTY10/5978205)
and the almost free version here :
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805833571121.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805833571121.html) , but you might want to hurry there are only 9995 available :)
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Search: Adafruit protoboards, and Permaproto for HQ FR4 substrate versions.
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... make your own? They would be $1 boards from jlcpcb. Probably show up at your door within a week (or 2). Easiest board of all time to lay out. Use their free PCB tool.
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I used a few of such PCB's 30+ years ago when I started with electronics, but I found them quite limiting, and because of that projects get a lot bigger. I finally settled on using the one hole per pad PCB's with just a simple regular matrix. They are the most flexible, and usually resistors and transistors (TO-92) have pads long enough to bend the wires to reach another pad and make connections. For connections that are further away I use 0.2mm enameled wire, and a pretty hot (400+ Celsius) soldering iron to burn away the lacquer.
But if you want PCB's like these, they are available in get many different layouts. Some are very similar to what you have. The version below looks nice on first sight for narrow DIP IC's, and with the pads of only 3 holes per island, you can also pack passives and transistors more closely then on the PCB you have shown.
[attachimg=1 width=824]
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You can find them on ebay easily, just search for "3 hole" or "5 hole" or "multi hole" prototyping boards.
For example
4 hole series, 6 sets per row , with voltage and ground bus bars between :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284366189960 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/284366189960)
2 5 hole series with voltage and ground on left , between and right :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284366197017 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/284366197017)
2-5-5-3 with interleaved voltage/ ground bars
https://www.ebay.com/itm/156002889136 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/156002889136) or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/402512134517 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/402512134517) or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/403624000821 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/403624000821) or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/405146513327 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/405146513327) or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173842197013 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/173842197013)
3 hole groups : https://www.ebay.com/itm/284959197169 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/284959197169)
5 hole groups (6 sets per row) : https://www.ebay.com/itm/284366196967 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/284366196967)
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Thanks very much for the suggestions. I breadboard everything, and for most projects it's just easier to use one of these protoboards. But I was specifically looking for this design since it transfers directly from a breadboard. It's the most useful for Arduino projects using a Nano or Pro Mini. Thanks to @DimitriP for finding what appears to be the last supplier.
But I'm curious about the JLCPCB option. This board has 778 holes. They're not plated-through holes, but it's still 778 holes to be drilled. Wouldn't they balk at that? It would be nice to have FR4 boards instead of the whatever these boards are made of, but it's hard to see how they make anything on these if selling them for a few bucks.
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This board has 778 holes. They're not plated-through holes
They probably should be plated, and the high quality boards of this type I've seen always have been. It's not so much a concern with regular pad per hole protoboards, but pads that aren't attached to anything can be easy to lift, particularly if they're still small pads but with multiple holes/multiple solder cycles on a pad.
The cheap pcb places seem kind of inconsistent in applying any kind of rules like that around holes... not saying they won't ever complain, but it doesn't hurt to try, worst they can do is say no. People have done it before (https://github.com/tebl/breadboard).
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This board has 778 holes. They're not plated-through holes
They probably should be plated, and the high quality boards of this type I've seen always have been.
I prefer them not to be plated through - because I like a solid ground plane on the other side.
For examples of the types I like (and why), see the "Proprietary Products" section near the end of https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2020/07/22/prototyping-circuits-easy-cheap-fast-reliable-techniques/
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For examples of the types I like (and why), see the "Proprietary Products" section near the end of https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2020/07/22/prototyping-circuits-easy-cheap-fast-reliable-techniques/
yeah, I'm fond of some similar designs... yet they're an entirely different class of thing than the OP's request for a pcb that duplicates a breadboard layout for through-hole parts.
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The style of boards that the op is asking for is a big step up from the plug in garbage that they emulate, but still, I wouldn't attempt anything too demanding with them either, and always have in mind the limitations.
There are of course worse methods than plug in prototyping breadboards... but not much!
[attachimg=1]
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There are of course worse methods than plug in prototyping breadboards... but not much!
How much parasitic capacitance does it introduce if I add jam?
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There are of course worse methods than plug in prototyping breadboards... but not much!
How much parasitic capacitance does it introduce if I add jam?
Inductance is often the larger issue, especially with digital circuits :)
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There are of course worse methods than plug in prototyping breadboards... but not much!
How much parasitic capacitance does it introduce if I add jam?
I bet the contact resistance is was lower with the jam.
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There are of course worse methods than plug in prototyping breadboards... but not much!
How much parasitic capacitance does it introduce if I add jam?
I bet the contact resistance is was lower with the jam.
Possibly, but variable. Just like all solderless breadboards.
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On the pictured example surface leakage was a big problem, as it had carbonised slightly: that was cured by scraping the affected area before the addition of butter so preventing soakage of the honey that was later added.
When mentoring students, solderless breadboards are verboten.
They really are shit, and the only time I'd entertain building a circuit with one, is to demonstrate how deliciously shitty they are.
At least you can eat the toast afterwards...
X
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On the pictured example surface leakage was a big problem, as it had carbonised slightly: that was cured by scraping the affected area before the addition of butter so preventing soakage of the honey that was later added.
Surface contamination is indeed a problem, particularly with components that have been in the store cupboard for "a while".
When mentoring students, solderless breadboards are verboten.
They really are shit, and the only time I'd entertain building a circuit with one, is to demonstrate how deliciously shitty they are.
In addition to that, they can be used to teach other practical problems in circuits. Inspired by Horowitz and Hill, one example is at https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2024/03/16/practical-traps-with-a-one-transistor-audio-amplifier-solderless-breadboards-and-oscilloscopes/
At least you can eat the toast afterwards...
Unwise, unless all the components are guaranteed to be Pb and BeO free :)
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On the pictured example surface leakage was a big problem, as it had carbonised slightly: that was cured by scraping the affected area before the addition of butter so preventing soakage of the honey that was later added.
Surface contamination is indeed a problem, particularly with components that have been in the store cupboard for "a while".
Resistors pictured are from personal stock skip dived from my first place of work. Bandolier reels dated from when I was 6! (Yes, nice layer of tarnish, but at least they have copper leads and respond to a quick rub with an ink eraser.)
Suprising how many people just pull bandoilered leads off the tapes and then don't clean the sticky goo off the wires... don't even give the contacts on those breadbords a fighting chance to make a circuit.
When mentoring students, solderless breadboards are verboten.
They really are shit, and the only time I'd entertain building a circuit with one, is to demonstrate how deliciously shitty they are.
In addition to that, they can be used to teach other practical problems in circuits. Inspired by Horowitz and Hill, one example is at https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2024/03/16/practical-traps-with-a-one-transistor-audio-amplifier-solderless-breadboards-and-oscilloscopes/
Yup, done that, it hooted at uhf, slap bang in the middle of band five. Dont remember the type number of the transistor, but they were bought in for a prescaler project for a frequency counter. Jammed the neighbourhoods TV reception it did. Excellent demonstration on what not to do.
At least you can eat the toast afterwards...
Unwise, unless all the components are guaranteed to be Pb and BeO free :)
I'd rather take my chance with a bit of lead than the flux they put in the ROHS solder.
Defo dont want to ingest any beryllium though...
X
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On the pictured example surface leakage was a big problem, as it had carbonised slightly: that was cured by scraping the affected area before the addition of butter so preventing soakage of the honey that was later added.
Surface contamination is indeed a problem, particularly with components that have been in the store cupboard for "a while".
Resistors pictured are from personal stock skip dived from my first place of work. Bandolier reels dated from when I was 6! (Yes, nice layer of tarnish, but at least they have copper leads and respond to a quick rub with an ink eraser.)
Suprising how many people just pull bandoilered leads off the tapes and then don't clean the sticky goo off the wires... don't even give the contacts on those breadbords a fighting chance to make a circuit.
Urg. Worse if the solderless breadboards are shared (e.g. a classroom), because then then next person has to spot the antisocial behaviour :(
The "adult" version of that is having a suspect RF cable, and putting it back on the shelf unmarked. Great way to lose half a day :(
I still have a few components from a Philips EE20 set I had when I was ~10. I have even older components, scavenged from scrap PCBs when I was a kid and couldn't afford components.
The 1949 Weston Standard Cell I acquired within the past decade is still within spec :)
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For future reference, I want to report that I was able to find these boards on eBay after all. It's just a matter of searching for the right thing - 48X133 prototype board. That produces seven hits. Here's one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265276759831 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/265276759831)
I'd also like to say that as a hobbyist I find these boards to be very useful, and hope that other hobbyists will not be put off from trying them by all these EEs ragging on them from their ivory tower. These are effectively just single sided boards, so there's no ground plane. But when you need to formalize a circuit you've developed on your breadboard (yes, I use them too), then instead of designing and ordering a board from China, and waiting two weeks for it, you can just pull one of these out of your stash, steel wool the copper a bit to brighten it up, wash and dry, and you're ready to start soldering. About $1.60 each, or even less from Aliexpress. You do need to cut jumpers to length, and not use the pre-made duPont jumpers you may have used with the breadboard.
And if as a hobbyist you find that you're not quite as expert as an EE in designing your circuit correctly the first time, and need to make changes, you'll find that much easier with these boards than ordering yet another version of your board from China and waiting for it.
Breadboards are also useful for similar reasons, but they are the one item you can't skimp on. The cheap breadboards on eBay and AliExpress are almost all shit. But this one isn't:
https://www.amazon.com/BB830-Solderless-Plug-BreadBoard-tie-Points/dp/B0040Z4QN8 (https://www.amazon.com/BB830-Solderless-Plug-BreadBoard-tie-Points/dp/B0040Z4QN8)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/busboard-prototype-systems/BB830/19200392 (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/busboard-prototype-systems/BB830/19200392)
The big challenge with breadboards is SMD parts. But there are little adapter boards that help with that. I also have a stash of those. And most chargers, buck and boost converters, sensors, RTCs, GPSs and such are available in modules.
In my other hobby, photography, I find that professional photographers tell me that I have to get a carbon fiber tripod (about $400). It will last a lifetime, and is sturdy and light. But I still have the basic aluminum tripod that I bought 30 years ago for about $20. And it still works fine. There is a difference in the needs and methods of a professional vs an amateur, particularly since the amateur does not have customers or employers funding their purchases.
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... having a suspect RF cable, and putting it back on the shelf unmarked. Great way to lose half a day :(
:palm:
Punishable offence where I come from.
For future reference, I want to report that I was able to find these boards on eBay after all.
Glad you found what you were looking for.
X
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For future reference, I want to report that I was able to find these boards on eBay after all. It's just a matter of searching for the right thing - 48X133 prototype board. That produces seven hits. Here's one:
Amazing how easy it is to find something - once you know the right search term ;)
Thanks for reporting your success.
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Just to mention it, you can also make your own breadboard style copper boards by getting typical "strip board"/"veroboard" and getting a stripboard track drill ( https://uk.farnell.com/duratool/3360568a/track-cutter-110mm-3-5mm-carbon/dp/3360568 ) and then cutting all the rows on a piece of board at their middle (across width of board) hole.
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It's magic:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265276759831 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/265276759831)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802692958343.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802692958343.html)
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Just to mention it, you can also make your own breadboard style copper boards by getting typical "strip board"/"veroboard" and getting a stripboard track drill ( https://uk.farnell.com/duratool/3360568a/track-cutter-110mm-3-5mm-carbon/dp/3360568 ) and then cutting all the rows on a piece of board at their middle (across width of board) hole.
You can.
You can also use a dremel and dental bur (I like the spherical ones) with plain copper-clad board, and cut the islands you need. Works with both PTH and SMD components, e.g.
(https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/ps-manhattan03-1.jpg)
Or this example that shows a combination of techniques suitable for that job
(https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/ps-manhattan04-1.jpg)