Electronics > Beginners
no clean corrosive flux vs non corrosive
<< < (2/2)
wraper:
Stay away from both of them. Although they both should be non corrosive, I'd care about their performance. Both are pretty low end brands and some products made by AG thermopasty are certainly crap IME. I'd suggest buying lower quantity (50-100 ml) of something better, you'll never spend 0.5+ l of flux before it gets bad.
TuxKey:
i must admit that the two last comment left me a bit confused..

@helius..
At first i did not understand what you where saying but after 2e 3e reading i'm starting to understand you are basically saying  there a litany of standards and in that list there are two of which one is suited for hand-soldering..
could you point out one or two ? just so i know what to look for? Here is the EU store i can shop from.
queued to the page with fluxes.
https://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/#id_category=100484&cleanParameters=1&parameter_boxes=9&page=1&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC
 
@wraper

i know they are low and , but i'm basically stuck with this one.
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/te410_500/fluxes/cynel/
unless i pay €7 to ship it back for a €5 product i can do two things use it with the knowledge that i will not damage anything.
Or toss it knowing it can damage my pcb's and do more harm then good?

KL27x already explained that it was save to use..
Reading your comment makes me believe that i could have just wasted €4,40 on sum fancy alcohol with an acid.
The Material Safety Data Sheet says this product has two ingredients

1) isopropyl alcohol
2) hexanedioic acid

using my own logic (as a noob in these matters) i would say the alcohol is just a way to carry contain the acid.
Googling "hexanedioic acid" brought me to a paper of sum kind that talks about The Development of new Solderability of fluxes. Way, way above me...
It does seem that  hexanedioic acid is used in fluxes..but that's about it from what i can tell.
And that the result was not disappointing. Still one paper doesn't mean anything 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=11&ved=0ahUKEwjyiKLg5cjaAhVBbFAKHRpWD5MQFgheMAo&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpublications.npl.co.uk%2Fnpl_web%2Fpdf%2Fmatc122.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3E0R1WI6OWPH_dhBljOG13

One thing's for sure i need to re-read KL27x's answer and let it sink in..

Also i plan on desoldering a few parts from a old router i have and soldering them back on using this leaded solder.
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/s63hs10_0.7_0.5/solders-wires/stannol/543016/

i will try and see if i can film the soldering part and how this flux reacts since i only have a phone camera (iphone6) i hope the quality is good enough for all of you to help me judge the quality..

helius:
I am not as familiar with European brands, but Amtech, Kester, Multicore, AIM, Indium, Alpha, MG Chemicals, are all quality brands. I can see that TME sells Amtech NC-559-TF, which is very good especially for surface-mount work.


--- Quote from: TuxKey on April 20, 2018, 12:21:38 pm ---Reading your comment makes me believe that i could have just wasted €4,40 on sum fancy alcohol with an acid.
The Material Safety Data Sheet says this product has two ingredients

1) isopropyl alcohol
2) hexanedioic acid

--- End quote ---
Rosin flux may contain just pure rosin, but it commonly also contains activators. Common activators are adipic acid (hexanedioic acid), citric acid, and glutaric acid. These are all small molecules with multiple hydroxyl groups which helps them reduce oxides on metal surfaces. Your MSDS doesn't list rosin because in the form of flux, the rosin is not considered a hazardous chemical when it is spilled out of a truck on the highway. Don't over-rely on MSDS to tell you what's in things, it is only intended to inform those performing emergency cleanup.
However, this particular flux is designed for wave-soldering machines, which means it is very thin. Flux for hand soldering shouldn't be as thin as this because it spreads out too much.
KL27x:

--- Quote ---Reading your comment makes me believe that i could have just wasted €4,40 on sum fancy alcohol with an acid.
The Material Safety Data Sheet says this product has two ingredients

1) isopropyl alcohol
2) hexanedioic acid

--- End quote ---
According to Wikipedia, hexanedioic acid has a melting point of 300F. So it's not just acid in alcohol. It's presumably an acid at soldering temps and a water insoluble solid below temps of most electronics. This is how rosin flux works. It might have some advantages or disadvantages over abeitic acid (rosin). Only one way to find out is to try it and see.

Is it strong enough at removing copper and tin oxides, or is it just barely deoxidizing the surface of the solder to keep the solder flowey? Incidentally, almost any organic compound can be used to flux molten lead... wax, sawdust, oil, sugar... if it's made of C's, H's, and O's, it'll keep lead flowey. If it burns easily, it will work to take up oxygen. The question for electrical flux is at what temperature will it do this and what residue does it leave and can it dissolve copper and tin and iron oxides?
Are the fumes objectionable?
Is the residue harder/easier to clean than rosin?
Is there some residual conductivity at temps up to, say 70C?
Is it more or less tacky than rosin?
Is the residue in fact significantly corrosive compared to other fluxes? (This is hard to tell without waiting a few years, lol; but it has an MSDS, and it's sold in a real store as "no clean," not alibaba/ebay-China. I wouldn't worry too much).
TuxKey:
Good point @KL27x,

i will answer all the questions as soon as i get my soldering iron.. TS100.
Got the brand power supply tme.eu and all the other goodies..
Just ordered my beginner multi-meter from lidl shop. added a helping hand sum fine needle noise pliers..
pfff this hobby is getting expensive..well i suppose everyone has his midlife crises for me it's at 42 wanting to learn about electronics and soldering  :-DD every time i place an order it's like $50 then $100 and i'm starting cheap hahaha..
ahh well guess that's normal when you realise your missing a lot of hardware..look forward to getting started.
i'm also getting a few diy kits from banggood to practice soldering en using my multi meter.

i'm very grateful for the knowledge your sharing. thanks again @KL27x
Navigation
Message Index
Previous page
There was an error while thanking
Thanking...

Go to full version
Powered by SMFPacks Advanced Attachments Uploader Mod