| Electronics > Beginners |
| Oils/products for keeping tools in good condition? |
| << < (7/11) > >> |
| KL27x:
The formula I have known as Ed's Red is DIY, for cleaning out carbon. 50% acetone and 50% gearbox oil (ATF). I didn't even know it was a commercial product. |
| Sudo_apt-get_install_yum:
The thing that works the best for my tools is snake oil, it lubricates, sharpens the tools and repair cracks and broken bits. It’s truly the best thing for your tools and its only 9.99$ and if you order within 10 minutes you’ll get two bottles for the price of 2, that’s only 19.98, it’s not even 20$ and it will restore all of your tools! WHAT A DEAL! Only a fool wouldn’t take an opportunity like that! |
| 6PTsocket:
I bought that hype, too. Check the SDS for Fluid Film. It is largely petroleum based. After you subtract all the percentages of petroleum distalates there is not much percentage left for the unlisted, because it is not hazardous, lanolin. --- Quote from: PhilipPeake on August 18, 2018, 07:54:45 pm ---Fluid Film is good. It’s lanolin based, so no problems if you get it on your skin. I was a little doubtfull at first, but hav found it to be really good. https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Extension-Number-Service/dp/B07CJWV273/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1534621901&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=rust+preventative+spray&psc=1 --- End quote --- Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
| 6PTsocket:
I just checked the SDS for WD 40 it is over 75% mineral turpentine and the remainder is six different oils. That would seem to indicate it is 75% solvent and 25% assorted oils that remain behind as a lubricant or to keep water out. It is not a great lube but it is not nothing. I checked the CAS to see what the 75% was. I did not research the exact make up of the other six. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
| 6PTsocket:
Superlube is non toxic. It is silicone paste with teflon particles added. I saw the compsny rep smear it on his tongue to make the point. --- Quote from: tautech on August 18, 2018, 10:23:14 pm ---Some of the better products are gun care products of which there are many types and consistencies. For medium term corrosion protection they can be very useful while the thinner solutions offer better penetration properties. For stiff tool joints you want something thin to penetrate and flush the joint and pretty much any light petrochemical product is fine for freeing up tools....even petrol/gasoline. Then proceed to a proper light lubricant to maintain movement and minimize wear. One need consider non-staining properties which would be where the likes of clear lubricants like sewing machine oils could be more useful than many. I use a product from INOX, MX3 it's clear, food grade and it lingers. --- End quote --- Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
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