Oils/products for keeping tools in good condition?

[Sekkai]

Curious how most people take care of their tools, cutters, pliers, scissors, etc.

Do most of you buy WD-40 and apply to everything once every while? Or do you use special oils and products depending on what you're using it on?

[IanB]

I have never found it necessary. Do you live in a particularly damp environment?

Most tools are stainless steel (scissors) or have chrome plating (screwdrivers, pliers, etc). Kept indoors they stay shiny forever.

Some tools like hammers and tin snips may be made out of carbon steel. To stop them rusting an occasional light coating of machine oil before storage should suffice. But common use and keeping in a dry environment should be sufficient most of the time.

[wraper]

Do most of you buy WD-40 and apply to everything once every while?

That is sure way how to damage tools and sometimes even cause corrosion. https://lifehacker.com/5891936/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40
And on top of all, it's not even a lubricant, it will flush out old lubricant and replace it with nothing.

[jpanhalt]

Many of my hand tools are chrome plated, e.g., wrenches.   Only a very few are stainless.   Most of my tools are good steel, some of it hardened.  Ordinary oil from use helps.   I have quite dry skin and don't sweat on them much, which is an advantage.  I do wipe them down with an oil rag.   For longer term storage, I use LPS3.

I do have some WD40 in the shop, but I do not use it often, except under my arms.

[Gyro]

Singer Sewing Machine oil. It's an excellent lubricant (especially for small hand tools), non-staining and odourless.

[rstofer]

Mostly, I use WD-40.  Ballistol is a good cleaner/lubricant as is Break-Free CLP-4.  These two are specifically lubricants where as WD-40 is strictly a Water Displacing compound and never intended to be a lubricant.

I don't clean or lubricate my electronics tools but I do squirt WD-40 over the tools I use to fix the sprinkler system.

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Cleaner-Protectant/dp/B00A470DQK
https://www.amazon.com/BreakFree-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Squeeze/dp/B0050GW7KU

[PhilipPeake]

Fluid Film is good. It’s lanolin based, so no problems if you get it on your skin.
I was a little doubtfull at first, but hav found it to be really good.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Extension-Number-Service/dp/B07CJWV273/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1534621901&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=rust+preventative+spray&psc=1

[nuno]

I do have some WD40 in the shop, but I do not use it often, except under my arms.

Thanks for the laughter of the day

[Sekkai]

I have never found it necessary. Do you live in a particularly damp environment?

Most tools are stainless steel (scissors) or have chrome plating (screwdrivers, pliers, etc). Kept indoors they stay shiny forever.

Some tools like hammers and tin snips may be made out of carbon steel. To stop them rusting an occasional light coating of machine oil before storage should suffice. But common use and keeping in a dry environment should be sufficient most of the time.

No but a couple of my tools (specifically, two pairs of scissors, and on pair of wire cutters) are a little bit stiff, and I wanted to know the right way to unstiffen using a product or oil.

That is sure way how to damage tools and sometimes even cause corrosion. https://lifehacker.com/5891936/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40
And on top of all, it's not even a lubricant, it will flush out old lubricant and replace it with nothing.

I was about to use WD-40 and I am glad I held off!

[IanB]

No but a couple of my tools (specifically, two pairs of scissors, and on pair of wire cutters) are a little bit stiff, and I wanted to know the right way to unstiffen using a product or oil.

Then why didn't you say that in your first post? 

I believe everyone in this thread, including me, thought you were worried about rusting and corrosion. It is normal to apply a thin coating of oil on tools in a machine shop to keep them from rusting.

If you want to know how to lubricate hinges, ask: "What is the best lubricant for hinged tools like scissors or pliers?"

As noted, the answer is going to be light machine oil or sewing machine oil.

[tautech]

Some of the better products are gun care products of which there are many types and consistencies.
For medium term corrosion protection they can be very useful while the thinner solutions offer better penetration properties. For stiff tool joints you want something thin to penetrate and flush the joint and pretty much any light petrochemical product is fine for freeing up tools....even petrol/gasoline. Then proceed to a proper light lubricant to maintain movement and minimize wear.
One need consider non-staining properties which would be where the likes of clear lubricants like sewing machine oils could be more useful than many. I use a product from INOX, MX3 it's clear, food grade and it lingers.

[Sekkai]

No but a couple of my tools (specifically, two pairs of scissors, and on pair of wire cutters) are a little bit stiff, and I wanted to know the right way to unstiffen using a product or oil.

Then why didn't you say that in your first post? 

I believe everyone in this thread, including me, thought you were worried about rusting and corrosion. It is normal to apply a thin coating of oil on tools in a machine shop to keep them from rusting.

If you want to know how to lubricate hinges, ask: "What is the best lubricant for hinged tools like scissors or pliers?"

As noted, the answer is going to be light machine oil or sewing machine oil.

I did, though, I believe! What did I forget to mention? I did mention these tools in my first post. I didn't say anything about rust. I thought WD40 was a lubricant, makes squeaky stiff things quiet and smooth, nothing to do with rust.

[IanB]

I did, though, I believe! What did I forget to mention? I did mention these tools in my first post.

No, you said "take care of", which means "look after" or "preserve". It can also mean "clean" or "polish". You said nothing about stiff hinges or lubrication. This may be a language problem. Maybe English is not your first language?

[Sekkai]

I did, though, I believe! What did I forget to mention? I did mention these tools in my first post.

No, you said "take care of", which means "look after" or "preserve". It can also mean "clean" or "polish". You said nothing about stiff hinges or lubrication. This may be a language problem. Maybe English is not your first language?

English is not my first, no, but thank you for teaching me how to word it better in the future.

Is "3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ" the oil you said, as an example? "Singer 2131E All Purpose Machine Oil" too?

[IanB]

Is "3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ" the oil you said, as an example? "Singer 2131E All Purpose Machine Oil" too?

Both of those oils would be excellent choices to lubricate hinges and other moving parts of machinery.

When you buy the oil, consider the convenience of the container and the dispensing spout. 3-In-One have had some terrible container designs in the past. The Singer oil may be better.

[Sekkai]

Is WD-40, then not a good choice for lubricating hinges and tools? Whenever I have a squeaky door I've used WD-40 to make it quiet and smooth... have I been doing it wrong all this time?  When is WD-40 appropriate?

[IanB]

Is WD-40, then not a good choice for lubricating hinges and tools? Whenever I have a squeaky door I've used WD-40 to make it quiet and smooth... have I been doing it wrong all this time?  When is WD-40 appropriate?

WD-40 is not really an oil or a lubricant. It is a cleaner and penetrating agent, for example to loosen rusty bolts and free stuck mechanisms. After you use WD-40 to release something, you should always apply a proper lubricating oil afterwards.

[wraper]

Is WD-40, then not a good choice for lubricating hinges and tools? Whenever I have a squeaky door I've used WD-40 to make it quiet and smooth... have I been doing it wrong all this time?  When is WD-40 appropriate?

If you applied proper lubricant, door would not bother you again for quite a long time.

[KL27x]

I have had rust issues before, when having a poorly sheltered workshop. I have tried paste wax and parafin, and I am not 100% sure, but I think they do absolutely nothing. Oil, any oil, seems to be essential.

For me, the most important thing was learning how to remove the rust. Doing it the right way will reduce future problems. They sell phosphoric acid by the gallon. You can use this to remove rust, and it leaves a block oxide layer. After rinsing and drying, apply some oil to soak into the surface, and this adds some protection. Even better if you use a zinc phosphate solution, phosphoric acid with zinc dissolved in it. This is sold as parkerizing solution already mixed in the correct ratios. You put the part in there and it will remove the rust. And it will deposit a protective layer thicker and more durable than the plain phosphoric acid.

I parkerized the top of a cast iron saw table by covering it in sawdust and pouring on the solution. It worked wonders. The table gets some rust around the edges, but the top has been rust-free ever after.

A lot of people use vinegar to remove rust. It does this great. And it leaves a patina, but it really doesn't add much protection.

Another trick I learned about later but never tried is linseed oil. If you apply it to steel and then heat it up, it makes a really solid black patina. I suspect it's partly chemical reaction, and that there may also be some polymerized oil stuck into the surface.
https://youtu.be/4ywqz3OWN4w?t=156

Another thing to be aware of is the color of the rust. If your tools get a dark brown rust that is smooth/flat, it is sometimes best to just oil it and rub it down. Buffing with fine compound, if you must, or do the acid wash. But don't sand it off and leave a clean coarse surface. The dark brown rust is very benign. If you rough up and clean the surface, you can trade that in for destructive red rust. The dark brown stuff usually develops very slowly on well-oiled tools, IME. In days gone by, machinists used to grow a thin layer of this dark brown rust on there, on purpose, using steam and a card file to brush off the excess.

If you are in a humid/salty environment, basically get used to having funky colors and stains on your steel. If you only concern yourself with just the red/orange or bumpy/rough/dusty/crumbly rust, you will save a lot of repetitive work for no reason. Any other stain that starts/grows is technically eating the steel, but it is also protecting it from the red rust which goes off exponentially once it sets in and is about the only thing that will eat down below the surface.

If you must have bright and shiny steel, then get used to refinishing regularly. I'm sure you can find commercial products with fantastic claims.

[tautech]

Removing rust from steels that you don't want to affect a finish like blueing on firearms is best done with oil soaked steel wool.

[mzzj]

Baby oil for hand tools (super easily available pure mineral oil and I'm not allergic to it unlike many other oils)
Baby oil + lanolin for metalworking tools in the partially heated metalworking shop/shed

[iainwhite]

To loosen seized or stiff parts, I use Penetrating Oil:  e.g. 3 in One  or Kroil or PB-blaster
To lubricate and protect, I use mineral Oil   e.g. Starrett Instrument  Oil ($$$) or Mineral Oil from the pharmacy (in the laxative section )
To protect exposed metal surfaces e.g. Cast Iron machine tables, I use Jojoba Oil  (somewhat waxy)

[KL27x]

For stiff joints, I crush up some chromium oxide buffing bar and add a few drops of mineral oil. Smear that into the joint and work it around some.

[Mr. Scram]

It's important to note that there are different categories of tools. For some regular maintenance is required, while others have all the protection they need in the form of a coating. A manufacturer like Knipex typically has a bare or black model and a chromed model. The former needs to be maintained, while the latter doesn't. A bare model can have some advantages, like slightly sharper cutting edges.

[Nusa]

The occasional bottle of Rum or Whiskey lubricates the most important tool in my collection.

[Brumby]

Best rust removal approach I've come across is this:




Then you apply the oil.

[paulca]

ACF50 is worth considering, although a bit expensive.  It's a rust inhibitor for aviation.

[David Hess]

For longer term storage, I use LPS3.

For routine stuff I use LPS2 which leaves a film behind.  Greaseless lubricants have their uses but preservation is not one of them.

[mmagin]

I like to keep some of the Starrett Tool and Instrument oil on a rag in a bag in my toolbox and in a "pen oiler".  If something's made of a tool steel that can rust I'll usually wipe it down with the oily rag after use.  This has the advantage of being pretty harmless stuff to get on your skin. 

For bigger tools I'll spray them with CRC 3-36 as needed.  As far as I can tell it's not that much unlike WD-40.  Most of these type of products are mineral oil in a mineral spirits carrier.  I like the pump spray bottles for less mess than aerosol spray.

[Vtile]

I have a bottle something called "Eds red" it have been my go to tool oil for past 10 years.. Lanolin, gearbox oil and paraffin oil.

[KL27x]

The formula I have known as Ed's Red is DIY, for cleaning out carbon. 50% acetone and 50% gearbox oil (ATF). I didn't even know it was a commercial product.

[Sudo_apt-get_install_yum]

The thing that works the best for my tools is snake oil, it lubricates, sharpens the tools and repair cracks and broken bits. It’s truly the best thing for your tools and its only 9.99$ and if you order within 10 minutes you’ll get two bottles for the price of 2, that’s only 19.98, it’s not even 20$ and it will restore all of your tools!

WHAT A DEAL! Only a fool wouldn’t take an opportunity like that!

[6PTsocket]

I bought that hype, too. Check the SDS for Fluid Film. It is largely petroleum based. After you subtract all the percentages of petroleum distalates there is not much percentage left for the unlisted, because it is not hazardous, lanolin.

Fluid Film is good. It’s lanolin based, so no problems if you get it on your skin.
I was a little doubtfull at first, but hav found it to be really good.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Extension-Number-Service/dp/B07CJWV273/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1534621901&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=rust+preventative+spray&psc=1

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[6PTsocket]

I just checked the SDS for WD 40 it is over 75% mineral turpentine and the remainder is six different oils. That would seem to indicate it is 75% solvent and 25% assorted oils that remain behind as a lubricant or to keep water out. It is not a great lube but it is not nothing. I checked the CAS to see what the 75% was. I did not research the exact make up of the other six.

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[6PTsocket]

Superlube is non toxic. It is silicone paste with teflon particles added. I saw the compsny rep smear it on his tongue to make the point.

Some of the better products are gun care products of which there are many types and consistencies.
For medium term corrosion protection they can be very useful while the thinner solutions offer better penetration properties. For stiff tool joints you want something thin to penetrate and flush the joint and pretty much any light petrochemical product is fine for freeing up tools....even petrol/gasoline. Then proceed to a proper light lubricant to maintain movement and minimize wear.
One need consider non-staining properties which would be where the likes of clear lubricants like sewing machine oils could be more useful than many. I use a product from INOX, MX3 it's clear, food grade and it lingers.

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[Vtile]

The formula I have known as Ed's Red is DIY, for cleaning out carbon. 50% acetone and 50% gearbox oil (ATF). I didn't even know it was a commercial product.

Neither did I until yesterday. The exact recipe can be found while searching the web with - C.E "Ed" Harris - who is the author for this recipe, its true use is gun bore cleaner / oil.

[KL27x]

+1 for snake oil. It's great!

Honestly, the oil industry, at least at the consumer level, is quite a lot like the beverage industry. It's an extremely profitable sector which is 90% about product packaging and marketing/distribution. Beverage companies, new and old, Coke or Monster Energy.. not all of them, but MANY of the most successful ones spend more on marketing than on their product.  Like colored/sweetened water, we essentially have a limitless supply of light oils as a byproduct of world demand for fuel oil.

This is the perfect industry for politicos to hand contracts out to their chronies. I personally know a company that gets multimillion dollar government contracts. There's no extensive research and development department. There's no laboratory. It's 4 guys who know someone who knows someone, mixing and bottling oil and grease and getting a bit bite of government cheese.   

The ACF50 aircraft stuff, I'm sure started out like this. I bet 99% of their business is beaurocratically mandated through government or other monopoly policy makers. It's cute they even have a website and/or sell through other distributors to individuals.

The exact recipe can be found while searching the web with - C.E "Ed" Harris - who is the author for this recipe, its true use is gun bore cleaner / oil.

I found this:

The original bore cleaner formula calls for equal parts :
Acetone
K-1 Kerosene (hurricane lamp oil is another name)
Mineral spirits - low odor
ATF , GM Dexron III regular not synthetic .

There's one reference that claims whale oil as one of the original ingredient.

All in all, this list sounds a lot like an average guy mixing up w/e he has lying around his garage and seeing if it works.  And I bet many commercial oils are no different, other than they would be putting way more attention to the cost of the raw ingredients available to them at the time. In many cases they are using the less refined precursors to stuff that even has a name. "Hydrotreated light petroleum distillate." What is that? Maybe it would produce some lighter fluid, some mineral oil, some other stuff if further refiend. Or we can buy this stuff for 1 cent a gallon, add a drop of otter semen, and call it CR90.

[Vtile]

There's one reference that claims whale oil as one of the original ingredient.

To derail this topic even further. Yes according to Harris original article (or the reproductions I have seen in many places) claims the recipe is based on old Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18, formula given in Hatcher's Notebook.

https://www.majorsgunclub.org/edsred.html

I have found the Ed's red without acetone and lanolin addition to be a nice all around micro mechanic oil, including (cast iron) sewing machines. IIRC I used Dexron III, Lanolin (anhydrous = waterfree), kerosene/paraffin (lamp oil), mineral spirit. Just incredient that were on garage, except the lanolin.

Post #900 - Need to get a life.

[IanB]

It should be noted that actual lubricating oil designed for best performance is not just any old oil, it is oil specifically designed for the lubricating job. In particular, mineral oil is refined to keep all the long, straight chain molecules and to remove the aromatic and cyclic molecules. Therefore any random oil you happen to find (like lamp oil) isn't necessarily lube oil.

A good source of actual, purpose designed lube oil is motor oil.

[David Hess]

It should be noted that actual lubricating oil designed for best performance is not just any old oil, it is oil specifically designed for the lubricating job. In particular, mineral oil is refined to keep all the long, straight chain molecules and to remove the aromatic and cyclic molecules. Therefore any random oil you happen to find (like lamp oil) isn't necessarily lube oil.

A good source of actual, purpose designed lube oil is motor oil.

Motor oil is one of the better choices although for bearings, I prefer heavier gear oil intended for a transmission or differential since I am usually oiling something which is worn.  I need to test out automatic transmission fluid; it might be even better.

[Gyro]

The problem with gear oil is that it really stinks! -  Especially the hypoid gear extreme pressure stuff.

[David Hess]

The problem with gear oil is that it really stinks! -  Especially the hypoid gear extreme pressure stuff.

Usually so little is used that there is little smell.  And besides, the smell reminds me of steam engines.

Not all grades of gear oil include sulfur and the later synthetic transmission fluid like gear oil also does not contain sulfur.

[iainwhite]

Motor oil is one of the better choices although for bearings, I prefer heavier gear oil intended for a transmission or differential since I am usually oiling something which is worn.  I need to test out automatic transmission fluid; it might be even better.

I tend to avoid motor oil for machinery bearings as it contains detergents which might keep metal particles in suspension and accelerate wear.
You can buy non detergent motor oil (although it's a bit hard to find).
Maybe it is a non-issue  - What is your experience? 

[SparkyFX]

WD 40 or de-greaser/brake cleaner to clean, Ballistol to preserve.

[nanofrog]

WD in WD40 is short for Water Displacement. The 40 is the 40th attempt before they got it right. It's not a lubricating agent at all.

It's meant for use inside say a distributor cap that has condensation in it; spray in some WD40, wipe, reinstall and start the engine. I've literally been in this situation one night when I hit a flooded road during a heavy downpour as I was rounding a curve at ~ 4AM. Stuff kept me from being stranded on the side of the road.

For my hand tools (pliers & cutters), I use 3 in One oil. Stuff's worked very well for me over the years. If you've a particularly stiff joint, you might want to consider a penetrating oil such as Kroil.

If you need even more application precision, there's various precision oilers available (needle tips). Images.

[6PTsocket]

The formula I have known as Ed's Red is DIY, for cleaning out carbon. 50% acetone and 50% gearbox oil (ATF). I didn't even know it was a commercial product.

Neither did I until yesterday. The exact recipe can be found while searching the web with - C.E "Ed" Harris - who is the author for this recipe, its true use is gun bore cleaner / oil.

On automotive sites  50/50 Acetone/ATF is widely known as a rust buster to get parts unstuck. It came out on top in a widely quoted comparison test against commercial products like Kroil and PB Blaster. Subsequent tests by others found that, while effective it might not be that superior to commercial products. It is, however, CHEAP.

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[David Hess]

I tend to avoid motor oil for machinery bearings as it contains detergents which might keep metal particles in suspension and accelerate wear.
You can buy non detergent motor oil (although it's a bit hard to find).
Maybe it is a non-issue  - What is your experience?

If that has been an issue, I have never noticed.  Of the things I have tested over the years though, common motor oil was one of the best options for small bushings and roller bearings on fans and motors.  Gear oil was as good if not better.  Greases and common thin oils like LPS2 and 3-in-1 oil were worse.

On automotive sites  50/50 Acetone/ATF is widely known as a rust buster to get parts unstuck. It came out on top in a widely quoted comparison test against commercial products like Kroil and PB Blaster. Subsequent tests by others found that, while effective it might not be that superior to commercial products. It is, however, CHEAP.

The guy over at Project Farm did some tests where acetone plus ATF worked well and only Liquid Wrench or a heating torch was better:

[6PTsocket]

I tend to avoid motor oil for machinery bearings as it contains detergents which might keep metal particles in suspension and accelerate wear.
You can buy non detergent motor oil (although it's a bit hard to find).
Maybe it is a non-issue  - What is your experience?

If that has been an issue, I have never noticed.  Of the things I have tested over the years though, common motor oil was one of the best options for small bushings and roller bearings on fans and motors.  Gear oil was as good if not better.  Greases and common thin oils like LPS2 and 3-in-1 oil were worse.

On automotive sites  50/50 Acetone/ATF is widely known as a rust buster to get parts unstuck. It came out on top in a widely quoted comparison test against commercial products like Kroil and PB Blaster. Subsequent tests by others found that, while effective it might not be that superior to commercial products. It is, however, CHEAP.

The guy over at Project Farm did some tests where acetone plus ATF worked well and only Liquid Wrench or a heating torch was better:

And other tests got different results. When it comes to this kind of stuff everybody has a favorite that they swear by.

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[GreyWoolfe]

I remember my dad keeping and using liquid wrench to free things up.  I still use it to this day.  I also remember 3 in 1 oil to stop squeaks.  On the topic of motor oil as a lubricant, a piece of equipment we had deployed years ago, the manufacturer recommended Marvel Mystery Oil as the lubricant for the parts that needed lubrication.  A very small amount applied by hypodermic went a long way.

[Wolfgang]

Hi,

I use a product called "Ballistol". Its a conserving oil used for:

- keeping rust from metal parts
- polishing gunshafts
- lubricate delicate parts (sewing machine ...)
- in the food industry (nontoxic)

I does not clot or thicken with time, either.

[KL27x]

- keeping rust from metal parts
- polishing gunshafts
- lubricate delicate parts (sewing machine ...)

That curiously describes every petro oil. Well, other than the "polishing gunshafts." I'm not sure what a gunshaft is, lol.

- in the food industry (nontoxic)

If it's foodsafe, you can bet it's mineral oil in an aerosol can.

*I don't know that Ballistol is food-safe. MSDS says it is non-poisonous, which is not the same thing.
"Ballistol contains medicinal grade mineral oil, alkaline salts of oleic acid, several alcohols, Benzyl Acetate and an oil
from vegetal seeds. The mineral oil is unchlorinated and conforms to the specifications of US Pharmacopeia XX."
There's also isohexane as a thinner in the aerosol variant, 14% of the product. This is not something you want to intentionally ingest.

And other tests got different results. When it comes to this kind of stuff everybody has a favorite that they swear by.

I find it curious how many tests there are between these various products without some known quantity as a control. Comparing snake oil to snake oil, the winner is very unsurprisingly going to be snake oil. Ed's Red, I suppose is generic, but even ATF is... well what is ATF? Add something in there that is generic. Like mineral oil or, heck, cooking oil. Canola, peanut, sunflower. Take your pic.

[Jwillis]

I don't like oily tools for hobbies or electronics because dust sticks to them and get messy and dirty.My mechanic tools are oily anyway from just use.But if I put them in storage I just use some ATF .It's worked just fine for years.For Air tools I use the proper air tool oil because it dosn't build up and get gummy.Over the years I find diesel works just as well as a penetrating oil for rusty bolts or seized tools as anything else.Copper coat to prevent re seizing. For extremely seized bolts nothing works better than a oxy-acetylene torch.I have  used WD-40 as a quick fix for engine distributors that have been exposed to moisture or fogging small engines for storage but I don't keep it around much. Graphite spray for door locks because it dries and dosn't collect dust.Most other on the shelf specialty lubricants , anti seize compounds and additives may as well stay there on the shelf.I've tried just about all of them and they're simply not worth the money.What I found was to be careful using engine oil or gear oil on plastic or rubber parts.Petroleum based oils can soften some plastics and swell some rubber parts. For instance, pouring engine oil,ATF or any thing other than brake fluid into your brake system will destroy it completely.
I know this isn't an automotive forum just my 2 bits of experience.     

[helius]

*I don't know that Ballistol is food-safe. MSDS says it is non-poisonous, which is not the same thing.

Cleaning and lubricating products are not supposed to be added to food, but they can be approved for use in facilities and machines that process food. This is called an NSF rating, and it means that the residues that may be incidentally transferred to food (depending on the class of rating) are not dangerous. Remember, the dose makes the poison.

"Ballistol contains medicinal grade mineral oil, alkaline salts of oleic acid, several alcohols, Benzyl Acetate and an oil
from vegetal seeds. The mineral oil is unchlorinated and conforms to the specifications of US Pharmacopeia XX."
There's also isohexane as a thinner in the aerosol variant, 14% of the product. This is not something you want to intentionally ingest.

Isohexane, acetone, isopropyl alcohol, and methanol are not safe to ingest directly, but residues in the ppm range pose no danger to health.