OLED displays and enclosures

[VEGETA]

Dear friends,

I want to make a project which could turn into a product later on which uses a display, I like the oled modules like this one:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-91-inch-128x32-I2C-IIC-Serial-Blue-OLED-LCD-Display-Module-0-91-12832-SSD1306/32788923016.html

or any similar ones like 0.96 one (under 3$ or so) since they offer lower current consumption than typical lcds and most importantly they are arduino compatible so I won't worry about libraries and so on.

The problem is how to mount them on a plastic enclosure? I don't like to cut a rectangular hole for the size of the display... since it will not be flush with the enclosure or so. Unlike 16x2 LCDs which have that bevel which makes them easily mountable.

I have seen these products for example of using oleds:

http://www.dx.com/p/home-0-96-inch-h2-oled-display-portable-fingertip-oximeter-heart-rate-detector-white-black-2-x-aaa-508287#.WulcDNRuYdU

https://www.zapals.com/instant-read-digital-pulse-oximeter-pulse-rate-monitor-with-oled-display.html

So how did they do it? is it robust enough?! I don't want anything with extra steps like getting glass or something similar.

Looking forward to your opinion.

regards

[VEGETA]

How important is the knowledge that I received this time?

What do you mean by that? I don't understand.

My question revolves around how to mount the OLED display module on electronics products the best way.

thanks!

[Rerouter]

You never gave an idea on the quantity, but I would imagine one of 2 options, a window, or a void with a sticker, as they seem the common ones.

 If your ordering around 100 units of an enclosure, talk to the manufacturer, generally its not to hard to have them punch out the windows for you with a specialised part number. A recessed window would cost more though

Second approach is similar, just using a high grade clear sticker over the display cutout for a window, I've seen this method used over and over again in automotive diagnostic tools

[VEGETA]

You never gave an idea on the quantity, but I would imagine one of 2 options, a window, or a void with a sticker, as they seem the common ones.

 If your ordering around 100 units of an enclosure, talk to the manufacturer, generally its not to hard to have them punch out the windows for you with a specialised part number. A recessed window would cost more though

Second approach is similar, just using a high grade clear sticker over the display cutout for a window, I've seen this method used over and over again in automotive diagnostic tools

Probably a quantity of 100 is doable as first try, I am still far away in the design phase.

Anyway, can you kindly post images to such methods as I cannot imagine what you mean due to my lack of experience. I found a manufacturer on aliexpress who said he would do the following:

- cutouts: 80$
- painting (2 colors): 120$
- enclosure itself (x100 qty): 45$
- shipping: 60$
- paypal fee: 5%

total = 320$ for 100 pieces -> 3.2$ per enclosure... is it good or bad?

So yeah, they will do cuts as I request. The only solution I got is to make a window for just the active area of the display but it will be as I said above... it won't sit flush with the enclosure.

___

I would still have to know how to mount it from the inside too! I won't make a whole PCB for it so I need a method, the case won't have screws at that side.

[Rerouter]

Ok for mounting, the common practice i have seen when custom plastic mouldings is not an option is a rubber stick on pad behind the display and some cheap metal fitting on the other side as a spacer, that is to keep it in place.

(You would be suprised how many $$$$$ auto tools use that method with a common case and a prefab window with membrane sticker and inserts with connector cutouts)

For the sticker idea. Think like plastic phone screen protectors, the same people that make membrane keyboards make them, using a much better, generally 3m brand adhesivse, it sticks on the front of your enclosure, sometimes doubling as a membrane keypad, and they last for years if not handled too horribly.

[Rerouter]

Also for pricing, the sniff test is how much it would cost you in time to do an equivilent job, $80 for 100 units is about 80c per piece, If you have the tooling to beat this, then fine, but sounds like your starting small.

Also you can always shop around, if your device is not yet compete look at similar cases, having the option to use more than one gives you some wiggle room when your still in the non custom case game (the setup costs for custom injected cases is not small)

[VEGETA]

rubber stick on pad behind the display and some cheap metal fitting on the other side as a spacer, that is to keep it in place.

I don't know exactly what you mean, but if you mean make a front panel pcb with all front panel stuff on it... then fix it with screws on the plastic case from inside... then I don't think it will work since my cases do not have screws on that end of the enclosure. My only option available is to glue it in place but it won't be accurate at all...

front panel will have tactile push buttons and on\off power button on it aside from the display. spacing is gonna be a problem since you don't want the display to be more deep.

[VEGETA]

I found this one which looks nice: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-96-inch-IIC-Serial-Yellow-Blue-OLED-Display-Module-128X64-I2C-SSD1306-12864-LCD-Screen/32828449458.html

I think I would be possible to put power supply data like set voltage and current with actual voltage and current very easily with 2 colors.

Do you think that making a window is enough? like, mounting the lcd from inside without any part of it getting outside or even flush with enclosure.

[VEGETA]

I've been looking all time and found that nearly all designs are happy with just a window cutout for it like I mentioned above. Some of them put another glass to be flush with the enclosure and to protect the oled display itself.

Do you know how that is done?

I really would like to read some real life cases which faced this and how did they dealt with it.

[ebastler]

Just a general comment regarding the choice of display:

If your device is meant to have the display "always on", those cheap OLEDs are probably not suitable. Specified lifetimes (for a pixel that remains always on) are between 10,000 and 20,000 hours, i.e. one to two years. If the display only gets activated when the device is used interactively, OLED should be fine.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/oled-lifespan/

[VEGETA]

Just a general comment regarding the choice of display:

If your device is meant to have the display "always on", those cheap OLEDs are probably not suitable. Specified lifetimes (for a pixel that remains always on) are between 10,000 and 20,000 hours, i.e. one to two years. If the display only gets activated when the device is used interactively, OLED should be fine.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/oled-lifespan/

My project is a lab psu powered by li-ion battery, so it is on when you use it... say 3-6 hours a day at max. what display do you suggest?

[ebastler]

My project is a lab psu powered by li-ion battery, so it is on when you use it... say 3-6 hours a day at max. what display do you suggest?

The OLED display is probably fine in that kind of application. Presumably they also have a rather limited shelf life, but it seems unclear how much of a problem that really is in a tyical environment. (High humidity may be an issue?)

Personally, I have recently used one of these and am happy with it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-inch-ST7735R-SPI-128-160-TFT-LCD-Display-Module-with-PCB-for-Arduino-51/282390617147

Contrast is certainly not as good as in an OLED, but you get higher resolution and RGB color. Big caveat: In the cheap display I got, only the primary and secondary colors are usable. (Switch R, G, and/or B either off or fully on.) If you use any intermediate intensity values and colors, the viewing angle becomes terribly small, with major color distortion as soon as you move your eyes off-axis.

[VEGETA]

TFT consume lots of current which is bad for battery powered device. The OLED is only 15mA tops.

Plus, how can I design a GUI to work on that thing inside Arduino ecosystem. I have never done it but OLEDs and LCDs are easy because there are libraries for them.

Also, the one you posted is pricey compared to oleds and lcds while also suffering of the same mounting problem I mentioned here.

[ebastler]

TFT consume lots of current which is bad for battery powered device. The OLED is only 15mA tops.

Plus, how can I design a GUI to work on that thing inside Arduino ecosystem. I have never done it but OLEDs and LCDs are easy because there are libraries for them.

Also, the one you posted is pricey compared to oleds and lcds while also suffering of the same mounting problem I mentioned here.

Hey, I don't want to sell you that TFT display! As mentioned before, feel free to use the OLED; it will probably be fine. But to address your concerns:

• The power consumption is mainly from the backlight; I run mine at 25 mA. Yes, that's a bit more than your OLED, but not by an order of magnitude.
• As mentioned in the item description and title, an Arduino library is available for the TFT. (A TFT is simply one specific type of LCD, not a different class of device.)
• I am not sure I understand your mounting problem. Solder the display to your PCB, attach it with double-sided sticky tape, cut a rectangular opening in your enclosure, mount the PCB behind that opening. Done.

Best of luck with your project!

[customwidgets]

How about these:
for 128x32  https://widget.gadgetsavvy.co.uk/bezel-for-128x32-oled-display/
for 128x64  https://widget.gadgetsavvy.co.uk/bezel-for-128x64-oled-display/
Disclaimer: I make these bezels.