PCB holder; what are you using?

[HooRide]

I'm tired of attempting to get the cheap, light-weight helping hands to be of any use. I'm looking for something that can hold a 8x8" populated PCB well enough so I can desolder/solder components and/or hook up probe leads to without it teetering or falling over.

Any suggestions? PanaVice seems to make nice stuff but it's hard to choose without seeing them in person.

[Mint.]

That one that you linked, is bloody horrible! I had one of those and all it did was fall over and not hold anything. The holders for the jaws were too weak and the kept on bending every time I applied pressure. Its hopeless! I recently invested some money into a panavise, I will let you know what I think of it when it arrives

[david77]

Helping hands are useless. I'm using this



A similar PCB holder is available from Weller, for example.

In addition to a PCB holder a swively table vise like that



is also very helpful.

[shebu18]

This is ok for my use at the moment.

[Mint.]

Helping hands are useless. I'm using this



A similar PCB holder is available from Weller, for example.

In addition to a PCB holder a swively table vise like that



is also very helpful.

Whats the first one called? I might be interested in acquiring one.

[david77]

Weller sell one called Solder Fix 120.
You probably won't find the same model I linked to.

[orbiter]

I use a Panavise Jr

[Spawn]

I got a simple PCB holder at the moment with couple helping hands.
Helping hands are quite handy if you want to solder bunch a wires on a PCB to keep those in place.

This is my own PCB holder:


I want to get one of these in future to keep components on their place while soldering, it is a Weller:


If you do a lot PCB soldering and have the money this is great, we had them at my old work:

[free_electron]

And what is wrong with your table ?
I never understood the need for this helping hand stuff.
Simply put the board on the table. Done.

For smt board i use a piece of kapton tape . If they are really small : putty. The stuff used to keep posters on the wall. Tear of a piece. ,knead for a few seconds and tack it to the corners of the board.

If you have am antistatic mat : that alone has enough friction so the board doesnt move.

[Andy]

The only thing I have difficulty with is keeping through hole components (resistors, caps, etc) in place while soldering.

[eliocor]

I use this one:
AOYUE 326
very practical for small size PCBs

[Jason Long]

Take a look at this...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Third-Hand-A-multi-use-helping-hand-for-electro/

[dfnr2]

And what is wrong with your table ?
I never understood the need for this helping hand stuff.
Simply put the board on the table. Done.
...
If you have am antistatic mat : that alone has enough friction so the board doesnt move.

+1

I have a panavise board holder that I pretty much never use, because it's a hassle.  Way back, I used to use it when I was doing more through-hole stuff, because it would hold boards with lumpy component sides steady, but now I prefer just the table for through hole.  With SMT, this is not much of an issue.  Plus, even for the through hole stuff, the just working on the table is fine, if you use common sense and start with the flattest items and work your way to the tallest.

[HooRide]

I want to get one of these in future to keep components on their place while soldering, it is a Weller:

Sold! That's exactly what I was picturing in my head and the component holder is a nice plus.

I don't use my table top because it's slippery aka I need an anti-static mat on my bench, Dave mentioned those in his how to set up an electronics lab video. I just haven't purchased one yet.

The helping hands is find for holding a wire you're going to tin or solder to a board but next to useless for holding actual boards of any decent size.

Thank you all for the replies! Maybe I'll see something else in the thread I like and get it too.

[free_electron]

tssss.

handyskills 101:

tinning a wire.

hold piece of solder about 2 inches long between thumb and index finger.
hold stripped , to be tinned wire between middle finger and ring finger. so it sitcks out about 2 inches
Due to the humans range of movement of thumb and index finger you can actually bring the two ends together

its the same principle you use to take the top of a tube of toothpaste using one hand. the lower three fingers are curled around the steady object while thumb and index finger perform the work.

other hand uses iron to heat.

putting parts in board :

put board on edge so it sits vertically on table. hold with one hand. other hand grabs part and pokes wires through board. bend wires on other side of board 45 degrees.
repeat intil all parts have been poked through and pins have been bent.
put board upside down on table so bent pins stick up. have a blast with the soldering iron.

these 'pcb holders' are useless.

[Spawn]

tssss.

.......

these 'pcb holders' are useless.

I don’t understand the point of your post, if you think it is pointless just don’t get one and let us be happy with our PCB holders.

[dfnr2]

The only thing I have difficulty with is keeping through hole components (resistors, caps, etc) in place while soldering.

Start with the lowest profile components and work your way to the tallest.  I insert components, then hold them down with painters tape, flip the board, and solder.  A lot of people bend the leads; I don't--just a personal aesthetic preference--as it can get messy on dense through-hole boards, and components installed that way can sometimes be harder to remove.

Some components are bulky and may sag when taped (if you like that method), or have short flimsy leads that can't be bent to hold the weight (if you prefer that method).  Solder one lead on every one of these, then go back the reflow while pressing the component flat.  Then solder the other leads, and go back at the end and reflow the first lead for a good connection.

Dave

[david77]

Putting a board down on the table to solder works fine as long as all the components on it are about the same height. But it gets nasty as soon as one or a few of them are higher, e.g: electrolytics. Then the PCB holder is a good tool.
It's also very handy when doing measurments on a board. You have two scope probes attached, some clip leads to a range of meters, the leads hang all over the place, one wrong move and the weight of the leads pulls your board over the edge of the table unless you have it fixed in place somehow.

[dfnr2]

tssss.
.......
these 'pcb holders' are useless.

I don’t understand the point of your post, if you think it is pointless just don’t get one and let us be happy with our PCB holders.

While his tone may not be exactly avuncular, his point is valid.  Those things *are* pretty much useless--even if you use them, they won't improve the speed or quality of your work 99% of the time, and they do take money from your budget and space on the bench.  Flipping your quote, if you are put off by some well-meaning (if a bit pointed) advice, just ignore it. 

[TerminalJack505]

So far as I'm concerned: yes, PCB holders are useless if you happen to have four arms.    

I'm always wishing I had four arms when I solder.  I don't happen to have four arms so it's nice to have something hold the PCB steady while I hold a tiny little SMD component with tweezers in one hand, a 350C soldering iron in another and the solder in my remaining hand.

 

[dfnr2]

So far as I'm concerned: yes, PCB holders are useless if you happen to have four arms.    

I'm always wishing I had four arms when I solder.  I don't happen to have four arms so it's nice to have something hold the PCB steady while I hold a tiny little SMD component with tweezers in one hand, a 350C soldering iron in another and the solder in my remaining hand.

 

If you're holding the solder, soldering iron, and part, then something is wrong.  No need to apply unmelted solder to the part.  For SMT soldering, this is called "dry soldering."  Youmay  end up damaging parts that way, since the head capacity of the molten solder helps prevent overheating.  If you heat the part and pad directly before feeding in solder, you risk overheating the part, especially for some chip parts like capacitors that are prone to delamination.

Try:

 1) apply flux
 2) apply small amount of solder to the chisel tip (no pointy tips)
 3) holding the part in place, transfer molten solder to fluxed pad/lead joint, and allow to flow.

[TerminalJack505]

So far as I'm concerned: yes, PCB holders are useless if you happen to have four arms.    

I'm always wishing I had four arms when I solder.  I don't happen to have four arms so it's nice to have something hold the PCB steady while I hold a tiny little SMD component with tweezers in one hand, a 350C soldering iron in another and the solder in my remaining hand.

 

If you're holding the solder, soldering iron, and part, then something is wrong.  No need to apply unmelted solder to the part.  For SMT soldering, this is called "dry soldering."  Youmay  end up damaging parts that way, since the head capacity of the molten solder helps prevent overheating.  If you heat the part and pad directly before feeding in solder, you risk overheating the part, especially for some chip parts like capacitors that are prone to delamination.

Try:

 1) apply flux
 2) apply small amount of solder to the chisel tip (no pointy tips)
 3) holding the part in place, transfer molten solder to fluxed pad/lead joint, and allow to flow.

Actually I have three arms so I don't need to use the 'tack down' method.  Saves a lot of time.

Edited to add:  Tough crowd!

[dfnr2]

. . . and the solder in my remaining hand.

 

...

Edited to add:  Tough crowd!

Heh.  Missed that detail 

[dimlow]

Got this in Aldi this week for £6

[HooRide]

I, for one, have no problem telling anyone that I buy silly useless things even if only for a split second I think it's a good idea...ok, well, got to go now, it's feeding time for my pet alligator...

[Short Circuit]

This is ok for my use at the moment.

Terrible for most practical uses. With one exception; these are quite convenient for holding an oscilloscope probe on your pcb.

[Mint.]

This is ok for my use at the moment.

Terrible for most practical uses. With one exception; these are quite convenient for holding an oscilloscope probe on your pcb.

Agreed

[shebu18]

As i sad, for the moment they are ok for what i need. I do not have big PCB's and the hold them well untill i put the smd component on top.

[T4P]

Actually those third hand things are hopeless even with smaller pcbs , they just bend over .
*With a quite big a pcb that 6 pound thing (i have it) actually can tip over*
Third hands are only good for holding probes and wires .

[krenzo]

I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WNY83M/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

It works better than the other horrible helping hands.  It's not perfect, but it's much more flexible and has a table clamp so that it doesn't fall over.

I see some people are posting vices that have the vacuum seal on the bottom.  How long does your seal hold?  I bought one, but the vacuum seal will only hold for about 30-60 seconds on mine.

Edit:  Looks like the issue with my Panavise is my workbench's surface is porous and letting air in.

[MikeK]

A Panavise is good (I use one), but you need the 376 head to hold 8" boards.

[T4P]

I see some people are posting vices that have the vacuum seal on the bottom.  How long does your seal hold?  I bought one, but the vacuum seal will only hold for about 30-60 seconds on mine.

Edit:  Looks like the issue with my Panvise is my workbench's surface is porous and letting air in.

hah ! yeah , mine wouldn't work at all on my glass table . No lacquered surface to test on . ( Er , it ain't panavise )

[G7PSK]

I just use a sand bag to place things on, it deforms to shape.

[HooRide]

Good to know about the panavise 376, that looks like a good one too. I'll see how my Weller holder works out for me.

I like your idea G7PSK; inexpensive too!

[saturation]

Just some insights on this view, using mostly SMT you likely don't need a PCB holder for assembly, particular without any components that keep the PCB from lying flat, which is preferred in SMT components.  If you plan assembly to leave tall items to the end, big items like transformers or electrolytics can actually be the platform, balanced against say a prop piece of wood or the dreaded helping hands!     Free_electron mentioned using 'silly putty' as a prop, and that has an added value of being sticky without leaving a residue.

However, in troubleshooting, modding, hacking, removing or salvaging parts, a PCB holder of some kind is very helpful, particularly with through hole parts.  Through hole also means making jumper connections, removing or adding headers, etc., A question then becomes which design offers the most utility, at lowest cost.  I like Panavise because its been around forever, and you can get parts anywhere including used at eBay or swap meets for far cheaper than new.

So in the end, PCB holders I think aren't "useless", as the word implies of no value, but more "used-less" than you expect, given smaller PCB sizes and lower parts count and SMT components.

I find however, that most of what I do is modify rather than build from the ground up.  When I build, its dead bug style and a PCB holder is very helpful when it comes time to etch out the copper with a dremel tool to hold the PCB from dancing about, and keeping both hands free for the fine work. 

A simple test is try to assemble without holder.  If you find yourself using a hand to keep positioning the board in any angle but flat, or holding it down, you probably can use a holder.  The cheapest one that can work is the controversial helping hand, and keeps you from spending too much for something that may be 'used' less than you expected.  If you find you keep fidgeting the helping hand while you're doing the work, you either don't have the best position possible for it, or you need something better.

.......
these 'pcb holders' are useless.

While his tone may not be exactly avuncular, his point is valid.  Those things *are* pretty much useless...

[StubbornGreek]

Funny, I just started a thread on this here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/better-than-%28un%29helpful-hands/

Here's a quick shot:

[CyberWalker]

I wish to buy a PCB holder, too! I was searching the other day on mostly ebay and I came around some decent designs...  But still, the best of them seem to be somewhat heavy and the shipping costs included become prohibitive... I think that StubbornGreek has a good design idea! 

[meerweten]

i don't use one, i just use my desk and a woonden bar i placed on it to hold it steady

[jaspel]

For smaller boards, I find a drill press vice to work great.  Just don't over tighten it.

[DJKA]

I use "improved" helping hands

http://ikelk.lt/images/2c0b404511

[aluck]

I see some people are posting vices that have the vacuum seal on the bottom.  How long does your seal hold?  I bought one, but the vacuum seal will only hold for about 30-60 seconds on mine.

Same thing with mine. No table or workbench is going to be perfectly flat and clean forever.

Will pour 2-4 pounds (1-2 kilos) of lead into the bottom of my vice. No, seriously. Think it's a good idea.

[updatelee]

I have the panavise 315 and 305 bought on the basis of all the great reviews of panavise.

Id never buy another panavise product again, pure junk. poorly designed almost all cost parts with ruff edges and extremely poor fit and finnish. I rarely use mine because is such a pia and pos. Very poor workmanship and metal, Ive seen better products produced in China.

[jhalar]

I use an old Goot ST-10 PCB holder that I had for about 20 years.
An oldie but a goodie. Works for me.

[Bored@Work]

I have the panavise 315 and 305 bought on the basis of all the great reviews of panavise.

Id never buy another panavise product again, pure junk. poorly designed almost all cost parts with ruff edges and extremely poor fit and finnish. I rarely use mine because is such a pia and pos. Very poor workmanship and metal, Ive seen better products produced in China.

Are you sure you got an original one, and not a counterfeit?

[HooRide]

I should have posted sooner... here is what I bought, works great! Weller ESF120 as suggested by Spawn. Fun to see if any of you can guess what that board is!

[SeanB]

Game console of some sort, made in the 1980's. Looks like you are replacing one of the game controller sockets, they were rather prone to breaking, after heavy use.

[jhalar]

I'm not sure but the feeling I get is of an Atari 2600 games console.

[0xdeadbeef]

This look interesting at least for hot air stuff and it's rather cheap - not for big PCBs though (15x12cm)
AOYUE-326 PCB working platform

[codeboy2k]

I should have posted sooner... here is what I bought, works great! Weller ESF120 as suggested by Spawn. Fun to see if any of you can guess what that board is!

Those triangular endcaps, knurled knobs and board grips all look printable with Dave's new Makerbot...

I don't own a Makerbot or anything like it, but if I did... I'd be printing now, and putting it together with threaded rod from the hardware store.

[saturation]

It looks suspiciously like an Atari 2600 PCB. 

I should have posted sooner... here is what I bought, works great! Weller ESF120 as suggested by Spawn. Fun to see if any of you can guess what that board is!

[saturation]

Some folks really hate the Panavise design, but those folks at least provides an alternate market for Panavise's competition, such as Weller 120, because those designs are essentially unchanged for over 30 years.  As for the finish and workmanship, I'd say its a touch lower than the original from the 1980s, but its not that much different, the 300s are still aluminum and zinc, but the finish is a bit rough.  The older models had more iron/steel making it top heavy, and prone to rust.  However, it costs very similat to the 1970s, so given inflation it far cheaper today than in the past, while still made in the USA [ so claimed].

I wish the Chinese cloned them because they do cost more relative to competing models, but I've never seen a counterfeit Panavise 300 series or the Junior.  Its been around since 1960s and the Junior since 1994.   I could never afford it when I started because of the high markup when purchased outside the USA and there were many cheaper alternatives, or even a DIY one.  But I have one and the 315 really sings if you adapt well to its style.  There are however, many attempts to copy its other vises and stands, and if you google PANAVISE LAWSUITS you'll get mutiple pages of patent lawsuits against copiers, they are certainly one of the most litigious companies out there. 

I have the panavise 315 and 305 bought on the basis of all the great reviews of panavise.

Id never buy another panavise product again, pure junk. poorly designed almost all cost parts with ruff edges and extremely poor fit and finnish. I rarely use mine because is such a pia and pos. Very poor workmanship and metal, Ive seen better products produced in China.

Are you sure you got an original one, and not a counterfeit?

[typeglob]

I should have posted sooner... here is what I bought, works great! Weller ESF120 as suggested by Spawn. Fun to see if any of you can guess what that board is!

I have one of these since a day or two and it is really nice (though quite expensive). Mine is red though and says Weller ESF120ESD on the box. I like the clamps (makes taking out the PCB nice and quick) though they do protrude 2-3 mm over the side of the board and may press on stuff very close to the edge of the board. I also find the sponge on the metal arm really handy for keeping stuff pressed down on the board, though it does get in the way a bit sometimes.

[saturation]

Found some c1980s or late 1970s photos of Panavise 315.  Most used sell on eBay for the same price as a new item.  As for the finish issue, its not that it will cut your fingers, it feels rough to touch versus smooth in the 1980s version.  The older models were heftier and has more knobs, so they likely refined the volume of metal and removed parts to what is absolutely necessary, after decades of existence.  You can get an accurate estimate of age since Panavise moved to NV in 1990, putting these units as made before that.

http://www.panavise.com/index.html?PageID=50&PageName=Company%20History&sec_id=50&sec_status=main



The currently sold version [ ignore the attached accessories.]




Very large photos from a current eBay auction:

http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=1281150&ppid=1122&image=577429039&images=577428974,577428983,577428992,577429005,577429013,577429018,577429032,577429039,577429045,577429056,577429067,577429075,577429081,577429094,577429102,577429110&formats=0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0&format=0

[pkrobot]

I used to think that helping hands are useless, until I used the following:

http://www.grstools.com/for-jewelry-work/third-hands-and-soldering-stations/third-hand-with-soldering-station.html

I use the standard one, not the one with short handles. It's much more expensive than the ones you get in Radioshack, but worth it.

-pk

[T4P]

I used to think that helping hands are useless, until I used the following:

http://www.grstools.com/for-jewelry-work/third-hands-and-soldering-stations/third-hand-with-soldering-station.html

I use the standard one, not the one with short handles. It's much more expensive than the ones you get in Radioshack, but worth it.

-pk

It looks great but my eyeballs spat blood when i saw the price ...

[pkrobot]

I used to think that helping hands are useless, until I used the following:

http://www.grstools.com/for-jewelry-work/third-hands-and-soldering-stations/third-hand-with-soldering-station.html

I use the standard one, not the one with short handles. It's much more expensive than the ones you get in Radioshack, but worth it.


-pk

It looks great but my eyeballs spat blood when i saw the price ...

If price is a factor, you can get two of these, and make your own:

http://www.contenti.com/products/bench-pins/110-284.html

-pk

[saturation]

When you look at the costs of other helping hands or vises, the dreaded Taiwan hand is only $5 or less each, it would pay to try to mod it as many have successfully done in instructables:

http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Simple-Solution-To-The--Infamous-Helping-Hands-/

The cheapest mod is use 8 gauge copper wire as a hand extender so you have a more flexible hand with longer reach.  Use shrink wrap to blunt the alligator clip teeth.  For more elegant solution, get 2 goose neck LED USB light for $1.50 each, remove the USB and LED, solder a large alligator to one end, and stick the other end into the hand.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-LED-Flashlight-Lamp-Light-Torch-For-Laptop-Keyboard-/140754921234?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c5a5a712

If price is a factor, you can get two of these, and make your own:

http://www.contenti.com/products/bench-pins/110-284.html

-pk

[updatelee]

I bought it from digikey so it better not be....

UDL

I have the panavise 315 and 305 bought on the basis of all the great reviews of panavise.

Id never buy another panavise product again, pure junk. poorly designed almost all cost parts with ruff edges and extremely poor fit and finnish. I rarely use mine because is such a pia and pos. Very poor workmanship and metal, Ive seen better products produced in China.

Are you sure you got an original one, and not a counterfeit?

[SLJ]

I have a Panavice for large boards but usually opt for using this trusty old circuit board holder that clamps on the workbench. It was made by Production Tool and Fixture Co. who I think are long out of business.  The original guides on each side were worn out so I made a couple new ones out of oak.  You can easily rotate/flip the board over so you don't have to remove it from the holder.   
I collect vintage soldering tools, irons, and guns.  You can check some of them out here if you are interested: http://www.stevenjohnson.com/soldering.htm

[robrenz]

Welcome to the forum.   You have quite a collection and very interesting site.

[SLJ]

Welcome to the forum.   You have quite a collection and very interesting site.
Regards, robrenz

Thanks.  I try to put the more interesting items on line with some background as it would all just go to waste sitting in my basement with only me looking at it.

[ptricks]

I was looking for something to hold PCB and didn't see anything I liked so I made something. Get some heavy duty alligator clips and some thick copper wire, solder the wire to the clamps, then drill some holes the size of the wire into a block of wood. Stick the wire ends in the wood and clamp the clamps on the PCB, you can the bend the copper wire however you want ,  you can have as much support or as little as you want and can adapt it to fit any type of PCB.

[ablacon64]

Very nice site, SLJ. Put your hand in the air, now! hehehehehe...

[Marc M.]

Somewhere I have a Panavise base w/ PCB head on it - never cared much for it.  IIRC, the Panavise uses mostly cast parts so it's operation isn't smooth and precise.  I also didn't like the design of the PCB head with 1 arm containing the spring loading and moveable jaw within itself - it just looks/feels clunky.  My vise system of choice by far is by far, the Dytex system.  Over the years I've gathered a variety of bases and heads mostly off Fleabay for less than $20 (USD) +shipping. 



It uses a machined ball and socket that makes it operation silky smooth and easy to adjust.  It's locked in place with a cam mechanism making adjustments very quick and easy.  It is so much faster than the Panavise thumbscrew lock design.  The vise heads range from 4" up to around 10" and have reversable jaw pads.  The PCB holder accommodates up to a 9-1/2" board and employs a lever operated spring loaded arm contained within the beam which keeps the arms relatively narrow and light.  The only caveat was the lack of adjustable collars on the rod the head spins on so when flipping the board over it would drop down and the jaw release lever would foul on the mounting stem.  To solve the issue I made a couple of adjustable stop collars.  That addition made it perfect.  I still do a lot of thru-hole stuff so the ability to quickly flip the board back and forth is vital.  Even when doing SMT work I still use the holder just so the board doesn't move around as well as raising it up so I don't have to bend over the bench while working.



For years I mostly used the clamp base on my bench.  The only issue was it had to be very tight (because I had it vertical) making it a rather slow process to move around.  As a result, I came up with much better mounting system.  I mounted a half-height strip of Unistrut across the front of my bench.  I then made up several holders that slide along the strut and can be locked in place with a thumbscrew.  I made up a couple of universal bases for the vises with 2 degrees of freedom allowing them to be set at most any angle.  All the fasteners used the same size socket head cap screws so it's easily adjusted with an Allen wrench I keep stuck to it with a magnet.  I also mounted my magnifier light on another mount so it can be moved to where I need it, then stored at the end of the bench when not being used.  The mounting system worked out so well I duplicated it on my bench at work.



The 6" and to a lesser degree the 4" vise heads are pretty common on Fleabay.  I've never run across the larger 10" head anywhere (I bought it off an independent tool truck).  There's a self-centering head available that is pretty close in size that's more common.  I don't believe that Dytex is still in business.  It might be possible that Panavise bought them out because Panavise has the exact same vise heads modified to fit their system.  Back in the 80's when Dytex was around I don't remember Panavise offering these style heads.  The upside is that you can get replacement jaw pads thru Panavise now that should fit the Dytex heads.  I've also seen a lot of Dytex vises with the 'Star Trek' weighted bases listed on Fleabay as Linemaster  LM-204 because that's what's cast into the bottom of the base.  The PCB holders are pretty rare on Fleabay but they do turn up now and then.  Currently there's one listed as a Linemaster, but they "reconditioned" it by painting it and now want way too much.

It also appears that at some point Dytex went from machining everything to casting some of the parts.  The only problem I've ever had with these was the cam locking mechanism didn't work on one vise base I bought off Fleabay.  It turned out the internal parts of the locking mechanism were cast and the threads had gotten stripped out.  Fortunately I have a machine shop (hobby) so I was able to make up a new set of parts for it.  If you're looking online for these you might want  to clarify that there's no damage to the lock prior to purchase.

[c4757p]

I have a bunch of random tools and stuff scattered around my workbench, including two types of helping hand and two small vises. I don't really have a "solution" for holding PCBs, I just grab whatever's nearby and looks suitable. Big boards go in the heavy helping hand, small boards in the vise, stable boards get thrown right on the table, etc. It's good to have a versatile set of tools.

[djsb]

What people have not mentioned here is small batch assembly of PCB's. I use 4 panavise 316 arms on extended bars on a 333 rapid assembly holder.

http://www.panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&page=full&--eqskudatarq=26

This way I can populate and solder PCB's in batches of 4.
For just one board I use 4 small blobs of blutack.

David.

[TMM]

The trick is to have one end of your board held in the air by the helping hands and the other end of the board resting on the table. That way it will not move regardless of how loose the joints in the hands are due to triangulation.

Of course it only works for through hole, but if you are soldering surface mount then just put the board flat on the table?

[img]

I like something like this

http://www.ecookshop.co.uk/ecookshop/product.asp?pid=W2569&m=48&gclid=CJCMkNv397UCFYfJtAodtjQA6Q

[LaMare]

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/pcbite-the-professional-and-affordable-pcb-holder--4#/

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-C1390C-Omnivise-PCB-Holder/dp/B00IX2H050

[Radio Tech]

I find PCB holders very awkward most of the time.  You can never get them at the correct angle. So most of my boards lay flat on the work bench.
I do have a panavise like listed in post #52.  Only time I use it is when working on boards from ham radios that have plastic former that hold coils because they are so delicate and break off.

[M4trix]

I got a simple PCB holder at the moment with couple helping hands.
Helping hands are quite handy if you want to solder bunch a wires on a PCB to keep those in place.



I want to get one of these in future to keep components on their place while soldering, it is a Weller:

I have the same one. Overall, good PCB holder but there is a tiny problem...the PCB tends to slip out of those plastic jaws while rotating them, especially if the PCB is filled with heavy components. Very annoying design flaw ! I had to glue some rubber straps inside the jaws. It's OK now.   

[TheDane]

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/pcbite-the-professional-and-affordable-pcb-holder--4#/

I have an AOYUE 326, which is ok - there are a few minus'es, as well as plusses:
The magnets are not that strong, so the board slips out/around somewhat easily - especially if a bit of force is being applied. (Solution - don't do that   )
The cuts in the magnet pieces are 'two sizes fits all' - or it doesn't fit. Ok for most boards, not ok for boards with components/sockets/shield cages near the edge. They are quite long/wide.
It's not 'too' high in the holding/working area, so it's possible to rest the elbows on the table while working (Less jerking and jitter while soldering, etc.) on the board.
The base is sturdy, and it doesn't move around the work table - but easy to move, if need be. Can be grounded, but I prefer to not zap components, so I ground myself and the working area underneath the holder 
The base can supposedly take a bit of heat, without warping. I don't know if this is worth getting the 326, and not just using the base that comes with the PCBite kit - It's the PCB that's supposed to get heated up, not the base below. I have the 326, and no bites 

I have a dream about combining the base with the PCBite clamps, but they seem too high to me - and hence it's not a comfortable working situation, especially for shoulder joints and muscles - alternatively my wrists must be angled at almost 90 degrees, if I have to rest my arms and elbows on the table.
No replies yet on if they will make a lower version - which imho should be quite easy 

There's a thread in the Crowd Funded Projects forum: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/crowd-funded-projects/pcbite-the-professional-and-affordable-pcb-holder/

[tooki]

I often have boards just set on the bench, but when I do need a holder, I use my Hobby Creek Third Hand, which in use bears no resemblance to those horrible helping hands like in the first post. The Third Hand's arms flex and stay in place with considerable strength. By the time you've got a board held by 3 or 4 arms, it doesn't flex or wobble around at all, it just stays exactly where you want it to be.

For sure, the Third Hand is absolutely fantastic when doing wires and connectors and the like.