I'd put a fuse
. Also EMI filter of lowest current rating possible as those have bigger inductance and, presumably, filter better. They also come at least in two flavors: normal and medical. I don't remember the difference, but you can google it.
Fuse will be there definitely. I want to put MOV on the AC line. How do I size it for 120V?
How do I size it for 120V?
I dunno
. But for sure it must be rated higher than 120V*1.1*1.41 (nominal voltage * 10% variation * peak sine value).
I didn't put a MOV because I decided it's not necessary. Transformer itself is quite robust to transients.
I'd put a fuse . Also EMI filter of lowest current rating possible as those have bigger inductance and, presumably, filter better. They also come at least in two flavors: normal and medical. I don't remember the difference, but you can google it.
Medical filters have low earth leakage currents, which in practice usually means no Y capacitor(s) between the phases and earth.
10W it approx 80ma at full load, so fuse would be 0.15A ?
Uhm, sounds about right for 115V mains. It's never precise anyway as it needs to account for inrush current, etc. I normally install the smallest one possible and increase current rating until it stops blowing. But the rule of thumb, afaik, is to have fuse for 150%-200% of max expected current. They are also come in two favors -- fast blow and small blow.
there are some good filter, you can make some similar drop some details like thermistor,
I bought common chokes , for low power filters ...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32703970119.html
I just bought one. May be not as good as this one, but saved a lot of time.
Just put 600V MOVs (at least a pair) , that is all you need on primary side (plus already mentioned fuse). Given that this is mains transformer , you don't really have to worry about noise. If you do get some noise from outlet , put a ferrite bead on the mains cable.
Don't use glass fuses , instead use either resettable fuse or HRC fuse , which ever you can get cheaper , the minimum voltage rating of a fuse needs to be 300V.
if you read my threads one of them will be about protecting transformers. I need to revisit it to better formulate my thoughts.
The idea was that you can use a reactor in addition to everything mentioned in this thread to limit the short circuit current at the cost of a voltage drop. Most people will stop at what is mentioned in this thread, it covers the classical solution that is widely used and considered by most engineers to be decent.
In case of HV surge , easily blows up , sending glass everywhere and damaging nearby components
I'd put a fuse . Also EMI filter of lowest current rating possible as those have bigger inductance and, presumably, filter better. They also come at least in two flavors: normal and medical. I don't remember the difference, but you can google it.
Medical has less or no capacitance to ground (class Y capacitors). This increases EMI or requires a more complicated filter to reach the same EMI suppression. The tradeoff is that it has less leakage to chassis/signal ground. Low leakage current is good when you are powering something with electrodes that might be attached to someone or even inserted into someone.
Don't use glass fuses , instead use either resettable fuse or HRC fuse , which ever you can get cheaper , the minimum voltage rating of a fuse needs to be 300V.
HRC fuses are total overkill in a plug-in instrument with a 10 W transformer. Standard glass fuses in a holder are totally appropriate here, and almost universally used in such situations.
In case of HV surge , easily blows up , sending glass everywhere and damaging nearby components
I use EMI filters with built-in fuse holders. Fuse slots are contained, so in case of explosion glass won't be spread (no sure about damage to the filter). There are also fully enclosured fuse holders. Like this one:
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/0031.3501/pcb-fuseholders/schurter/ . There are also covers available:
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/keys4245c/pcb-fuseholders/keystone/4245c/ . Cable fuses are also often fully enclosured:
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/8601.2001.08/fuseholders-for-cable/schurter/ .
I wonder if ceramic fuses would be better in this regard. Like this one:
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/0001.2501/fuses-5x20mm-time-lag/schurter/ . But, of course, the physical size limits maximum voltage it can withstand. So, if a surge in the order of kV it won't help.
I mean, HRC would be event better, but they are expensive :/ . On the other side, I read transformers (due to implicit high inductance) are quite robust to surges.
Anyway, I don't want to make any suggestions, just offering alternatives to a classic open fuse holder and a glass fuse.
What people are forgetting here is that fuses aren't there to protect the equipment, they are there to protect the local supply wiring between your equipment and the upstream fusing. So when choosing a fuse's breaking capacity you don't consider the load, you consider the supply. If you're lucky enough to live in a civilised country that mandates high rupture current fuses in all mains plugs then you can happily stick glass fuses in your equipment. If you don't, or your equipment might be used in countries that don't, then you would be wise to specify high breaking current fuses (i.e. not glass ones) in your equipment.
And whoever it was that said HRC fuses are expensive is talking out of their hat: 1A 250V 20mm x 5mm fuses, RS UK pricing - cheapest glass fuse £0.111 each, breaking capacity 35A, cheapest HRC fuse £0.142 each, breaking capacity 1.5kA. One third more expensive, 43 times the breaking capacity.
Fuses protect not upstream, but downstream wiring.
But it comes down to the definition of direction: Downstream means from the supply, to the load. So, your breaker panel protects the downstream wiring to the wall socket. And your small glass fuse does in fact protect against fire of the load - i.e. your small 10VA transformer, that could otherwise catch fire when severely overloaded.
The glass fuse in your appliance have nothing in common of protecting the wiring from the socket to it. That is the job of the breaker panel.*
*Some freaked out countries even put another fuse in their crazy looking plugs, to compensate for the simple and dangerous design of their plugs.
Fuses protect not upstream, but downstream wiring.
But it comes down to the definition of direction: Downstream means from the supply, to the load. So, your breaker panel protects the downstream wiring to the wall socket. And your small glass fuse does in fact protect against fire of the load - i.e. your small 10VA transformer, that could otherwise catch fire when severely overloaded.
The glass fuse in your appliance have nothing in common of protecting the wiring from the socket to it. That is the job of the breaker panel.*
*Some freaked out countries even put another fuse in their crazy looking plugs, to compensate for the simple and dangerous design of their plugs.
It's a circuit, not a river. If the fuse at the appliance end opens, then current stops flowing without the inconvenience of a branch circuit breaker or fuse opening and taking everything on that branch down with it.
Upstream/downstream is generally defined from where you're standing, not from the head end of the river/supply, otherwise everything is downstream. But, arguing about definitions of upstream/downstream is pointless when the issue is that one should consider the supply capacity not the load in determining fuse breaking capacity.
Oh, and breaker panel fusing usually 15-30A in 220V countries, typical IEC cable rating 6-10A. So the breaker will open when the cable from the wall is overstretched will it?
cheapest HRC fuse £0.142 each, breaking capacity 1.5kA. One third more expensive, 43 times the breaking capacity.
Concerning the price, it seems I was wrong. I took the price for fuses in DMM, but they have higher voltage rating. Indeed, ceramic fuses are not much more expensive than glass ones. I didn't knew they are also HRC. Do they have sand inside?
cheapest HRC fuse £0.142 each, breaking capacity 1.5kA. One third more expensive, 43 times the breaking capacity.
Concerning the price, it seems I was wrong. I took the price for fuses in DMM, but they have higher voltage rating. Indeed, ceramic fuses are not much more expensive than glass ones. I didn't knew they are also HRC. Do they have sand inside?
All the ones I've seen cracked open do have silica inside. Yes, good meter fuses are chuffing expensive.
*Some freaked out countries even put another fuse in their crazy looking plugs, to compensate for the simple and dangerous design of their plugs.
I actually think the UK plugs are the safest design out there. They are huge, but they have a ground that makes first and breaks last, and the have insulation on the love and neutral which prevents any thin metal object (e.g. metal ruler) that may have slid down between the plug and the wall from shorting out. The fuse in the pug is a brilliant idea, though I would still put a fuse inside the piece of equipment as well.
I have seen tons of blown glass fuses in equipment at 120V here in the US, and none of them have ever ruptured the glass. No argument the HRC are better, but I am just not sure how important they are at 120V, especially when in a proper, covered fuse holder.
If you want low noise, wouldn't it make more sense to go with a toroidal transformer?
At the very least, it would allow you to easily wrap it in some conductive material like copper foil and then ground the foil, and you got yourself a nice shielding. Even without extra shielding, the magnetic field would be inside the toroid and all that..
At 10VA the transformer would also be smaller and if my memory is correct, at such low VA rating, the output voltage should not vary so much with the load (compared to standard transformer)
You may have higher inrush current
Oh, and breaker panel fusing usually 15-30A in 220V countries, typical IEC cable rating 6-10A. So the breaker will open when the cable from the wall is overstretched will it?
The main purpose of a breaker or fuse is to prevent fire.
So how hot will your typical IEC cable rating 6-10A get with a breaker panel fusing usually 15-30A.
Heat of cable = time + power.
What is the temperature rating of the insulation?
To have possibility to start a fire you have up to when insulation fails.
And NO the fuse or breaker is not there to protect the source of power in a properly designed power system. The power source has a fuse or breaker that serves this function.
Simple electricity rules apply.
Oh, and breaker panel fusing usually 15-30A in 220V countries, typical IEC cable rating 6-10A. So the breaker will open when the cable from the wall is overstretched will it?
The main purpose of a breaker or fuse is to prevent fire.
So how hot will your typical IEC cable rating 6-10A get with a breaker panel fusing usually 15-30A.
Heat of cable = time + power.
What is the temperature rating of the insulation?
To have possibility to start a fire you have up to when insulation fails.
And NO the fuse or breaker is not there to protect the source of power in a properly designed power system. The power source has a fuse or breaker that serves this function.
Simple electricity rules apply.
From what you've said I suspect that you don't understand that we've been talking about the breaking capacity of a fuse, not its load capacity. The
load capacity of the fuse is the current it opens at (very approximately - the fuse's rating is more properly specified as some value of I
2t). The
breaking capacity is the flowing fault current that it can effectively interrupt or, put differently, the largest fault current that it guarantees to interrupt. That's why I say you have to consider the supply
in choosing the breaking capacity of the fuse.
The earlier example was of a 1A load capacity fuse with a 1.6kA breaking capacity versus a 1A fuse with a 35A breaking capacity. If the current flowing in a fault exceeds the breaking capacity of a fuse, that fuse will fail to open the circuit and can even induce a higher current fault itself, tripping the next bit of protection upstream. So, an example for the latter case would be that 1A glass fuse with a breaking capacity of only 35A. It's very easy to generate a fault current of >35A with a simple accidental dead short - loose wire, loose screw, that kind of thing. The 1A HRC fuse would break that fault current, the 1A glass fuse wouldn't and might even become a lower impedance than the fault it was trying to isolate.
A fuse that fails to isolate a fault in a point downstream of itself becomes a liability to points upstream of it and part of ensuring that does not happen is to choose a correct breaking capacity based on the upstream's potential for supplying a fault current to a downstream fault. Yes, part of the criteria for a fuse is "Does this have the breaking capacity to protect the upstream supply?". So in a "properly designed power system" properly chosen fuses/breakers protect
both the load and the supply.
I actually think the UK plugs are the safest design out there.
Until you stand on one while barefoot. Then they become the most
painful plug design out there.