Preferred Wire Choices?

[Wil_Bloodworth]

All,

Maybe this question is somewhat of a religious topic or maybe it's not.  However, I've not been able to find anyone talking about or discussing your preferred wire choices.  In the context of antique radio restoration (for the most part), what vendors and gauges do you prefer?  Do you tend to stick to one gauge or do you use several?  If several, which ones do you find yourself using the most?

Stranded?  Solid Core?

These seem to be popular but I would like several other opinions before spending a small fortune on copper.

Mueller Electric: https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/mueller-electric-co/WI-M-18-10-0/5449036

Pomona 6733:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OVEO1XS/?coliid=I2XTWZ2B0VOQFR&colid=3QDWG4LG5RM4L&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Thank you in advance!

- Wil

[Wil_Bloodworth]

I also found this "repro" wire that looks promising:

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/wire-20-awg-solid-core-lacquered-cloth-cover-600v



- Wil

[MarkF]

Recently, I started using the Remington Industries 20UL1007STRWHI UL1007  stranded wire. 
Various gauges depending on current load.  I only use solid wire if there will be no movement.  Like point-to-point on a PCB.
Mostly I use it because of the UL1007 insulation.  It doesn't shrink when you solder it.

[Psi]

I use AWG22 or AWG24 for small hook-up wiring (whichever is cheaper or in stock when I order)
And AWG16 or AWG18 for higher current wiring.

Always stranded, solid core is specialized and far less useful.

I like silicone insulation, but it is a bit weak. 
TXL Wire (automotive) is nice, and still has a good temp range and is way stronger.


Digikey used to sell 150M rolls of 24AWG nice silicone hook-up wire for cheap, like $35.
But i think they relaised they were selling it way too cheap and the price is now like $80

TXL wire is harder to get, i order mine from china in bulk,

[Okto47]

Won’t use thicker solid wire inside usual devises , harder to handle and it could apply stress to parts & PCB if used wrong.

I simply use whatever has the correct size , heat and isolation stability.
No (very) fine stranded wire if not really needed (moving parts).

[coppice]

Won’t use thicker solid wire inside usual devises , harder to handle and it could apply stress to parts & PCB if used wrong.

On the other hand, once you form it to the required shape it doesn't move.

[Wil_Bloodworth]

I mostly want to replace this vintage wire.  I'm not sure I want to use "new looking" wire but I guess it really doesn't matter... as long as it doesn't look "cheap".



Thank you for all the suggestions!

- Wil

[Wil_Bloodworth]

This "push back" wire seems to be quite nice if not a bit pricey.  5/5 stars from all reviews.  Not sure why it's called "push back" wire.

https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/components-and-parts/wires/vintage-stranded-core-push-back-wire---50-feet

- Wil

[TimFox]

It's called "push back" since it did not require mechanical stripping:  you can literally push the fabric insulation back from the joint.
If you want to maintain the original look inside the radio, it is useful, and available from antique-minded websites.

[Wil_Bloodworth]

What about 20 vs. 18 gauge for general purpose use? 

- Wil

[TimFox]

I sometimes use AWG18 for heater wiring (for larger tubes), but AWG20 and AWG22 (with sufficient insulation) suffices for other point-to-point wiring.

[BrokenYugo]

I mostly want to replace this vintage wire.  I'm not sure I want to use "new looking" wire but I guess it really doesn't matter... as long as it doesn't look "cheap".

(Attachment Link)

Thank you for all the suggestions!

- Wil

All the wire in that picture looks fine to me, why do you want to replace it? You generally want to leave it alone unless the insulation is falling apart.

[Wil_Bloodworth]

Ha. This thread has nothing to do with that specific radio. This thread is about wire in general.

- Wil

[shapirus]

Wires with PTFE insulation are very pleasant to work with, because insulation of this type is thin, heat-resistant and quite strong mechanically (unlike silicone, which is my second favorite) at the same time. Unsuitable for antique equipment, though, if preserving an authentic look (and feel) is desired.

[EPAIII]

Yes, I would leave the original wire unless it really needed to be replaced. Isn't that part of the antique thing.

Antique usually means tubes. And tubes mean HEAT. And higher power resistors because they also make HEAT. Well, you get the idea. Much of the damage I have seen in older equipment has been due to heat. That includes the insulation on the wires. My first consideration would be just that. Teflon insulation would be the best choice. But it can cost as much as ten times as much. There are other types of high temperature insulation, just check the label or spec sheets.

Solid vs. stranded? Stranded is for places where you need it to bend and flex. Using stranded is to prevent the wire from breaking, not the components it is connected to. Solid is OK for inside a chassis where a run is usually the same year after year, only gathering dust. Copper is not a very good structural metal. It is not going to put much stress on anything. I wouldn't worry about that at all unless you stretch it like a guitar string.

Gauge? You probably need more than one. 20 or 22 gauge may be a good first choice but you will be getting others.

Oh, and bus wire. You will need some bare, tinned, solid wire in two or three gauges as well: 24, 20, and 16 gauge would be a good start.

One thing I have done to get a variety of stranded wire in different colors is to buy or salvage some lengths of multi-conductor cable and strip them for the wires inside. I was lucky to be able to pick up some lengths at my various places of employment when they were being discarded. They make multi-conductor in solid wire too but that is not as common. One source of solid conductor is telephone cable but it may have smaller wire gauges.