Electronics > Beginners
Prevent cable from being pulled through hole
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rstofer:

--- Quote from: Richard Crowley on May 14, 2018, 10:41:17 am ---
Yes that seems like common sense here in the 21st century.  But back 60-80 years ago, rubber grommets and special knots were quite common with attached zip-cord power entrances.  I remember seeing the special knots where you zip apart the two wires (L & N) and tie a symmetrical knot.  Look at some of those videos showing vintage electronic gear.


--- End quote ---

It was done all the time!  I remember seeing knots in the power cords to a lot of appliances, particularly things like table lamps.  I thought the ARRL handbook showed how to tie the knot, many years ago.  In any event, it is known as the Underwriter's Knot and there are a lot of hits on Google:

https://www.google.com/search?q=ul+knot

Done all the time!
FriedMule:
Could you please tell about what material the box are made of, type of cord, main / signal, how secure you want the cord (shall it hold any load, weight, bee trip secure)?
Electro Detective:

--- Quote from: Richard Crowley on May 14, 2018, 09:47:04 am ---The most common solution is a strain-relief bushing, and the prominent brand is Heyco.
When you use the proper size, they grip the cable so well that the cable will break before they let go.
But they need exactly the right size hole and they are tricky to install/remove with ordinary pliers.



https://www.heyco.com/Strain_Relief_Bushings/product.cfm?product=Original-Strain-Relief-Round-1

--- End quote ---


They were/are called 'Nylon Cable Gland' or 'Nylon Cable Entry Gland' the last time I bought some in a few sizes,
they are very handy quick fixes, and a painless upgrade for stiff or deteriorating rubber grommet 'disater waiting to happen' devices   

and yes they are tricky to remove if fitted securely, unless you have the purpose made tool,
or a customized/butchered  >:D  pair of cheapie pliers or grippers 

FWIW if they are not a perfect fit, or loose/wonky and a suss grip, you can wrap electrical tape around the cable first to beef it up, then press down on the gland and slot it in to the chassis

I have successully used this method for round holes too and it works well enough (an internal silicone gob 'may' be required for zero rotation movement) as these Nylon Cable Entry Glands are designed to stay put in oblong shaped holes


If aesthetics are involved, conceal the black electrical tape under length of the gland,
or just get it sorted and then carefully trim off the excess tape for a pro look


Other cable diameter beef up methods are heatshrink or thin wall rubber tubing, but electrical tape works fine (UL listed preferably) if the cable isn't being removed or replaced.

My personal preference is good quality black or grey duct tape, it's wide, performs well under the pressure, it's one solid adhesive piece that I stretch a bit for extra grip, to ensure it won't budge or go gooey over time and temperature extremes 


Hard to put it in words, hope it made sense  :phew:

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