Quick question about a soldering station.

[Zai Kajou]

  I just joined yesterday, but I'd been reading around looking at different soldering stations, and did a search through here and only found a few posts about it, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the X-Tronics 3020-XTS is any good, I picked one up from Amazon, it seemed to have good reviews in a few different places, I know it's a Chinese clone of something, I haven't opened it yet, because I'd seen a few things that maybe it was questionable with how it was wired or not grounded, etc, and I message X-Tronics on Amazon and asked them and of course they replied:

"Thank you for reaching out to us. Yes, your unit is new and is wired correctly. The unit has gone through several QC processes and is safe to use"

  So I was just curious if anyone has any experience with this brand and this model, and if it should be safe to use, or if I should just try to return it and get something else instead?

I liked it because it seemed like a good entry in with a low price point and at least came as a little kit, I did purchase a hot air station as well, but I went with the Quick, which was on sale for under 100$

My apologies if I missed any other posts about this particular soldering iron or brand, but I only got a few hits back on it and wanted to check more into it before actually opening it up and using it.

[mvs]

This "station" is very small and the iron is most probably not isolated from mains.
Send it back if you can.

Proper stations do have a transformer (or at least switch mode PSU) in the base and low voltage iron (typ. 24V).

[Zai Kajou]

Thanks for the reply, yeah I noticed that box looks super small, I'm guessing I should return that possible deathtrap and go for either the Weller WE1010NA or the Hakko FX888D then?

Haven't read too much into those, but I know Hakko is a good brand and Weller I'm familiar with the brand, so I can guess both of those brands are at least built properly.

[pqass]

This "station" is very small and the iron is most probably not isolated from mains.
Send it back if you can.

Proper stations do have a transformer (or at least switch mode PSU) in the base and low voltage iron (typ. 24V).

Or, he could also check for continuity between tip and ground prong.   It does say "ESD safe".  If no continuity, return it.
It probably doesn't have the usual 24V transformer given its size for the wattage; 75W. 
Very likely a switch-mode PS but could still be isolated.  You won't know unless you open it. 
I couldn't find any internal photos.
There are some reviews but I'm not sure if you can trust them.

EDIT:
It seems the station is marketed under W.E.P and YiHua brands also.  At least you should have no problem getting new tips.
I much prefer the knob to the up/down buttons.

Temp. controlled soldering stations aren't rocket science any more.

[helius]

I do not recommend X-Tronic, they are just an importer who puts a label on products from Gordak or W.E.P. and doubles the price on them. "A trap for young players." Their electrical safety? Ugh. Amazon reviews are legendarily unreliable.
Quick hot-air stations have good reviews (not Amazon reviews) from professional users and are a good choice.

[Zai Kajou]

  Greatly appreciate the responses, I had a feeling they were some kind of importer, they went defensive when I asked if their stuff was properly wired, etc.

And I ordered the Quick 957DW+ from TEquipment for a hot air station, I saw it all over the place being recommended and since it was on sale for sub 100$ with free shipping I picked one up, since I want to start learning to fix some of these older video game consoles and modify them, a lot of them have surface mounts that I have a feeling this will work great for getting off, without burning my house down.

 I will be returning that X-Tronic station right back to them, since they have a 30 day no questions asked return policy, and I haven't opened the box.

I know there is probably quite a bit of preference towards one over the other, but should I snag the Weller WE1010NA or is the Hakko possibly better? I've read quite a bit about both, so now I'm just torn between the two, but I know either is better than what I'm hearing about this X-tronics now.

[pqass]

I know there is probably quite a bit of preference towards one over the other...

Around here, soldering and hot-air stations preferences are contested ad infinitum.
You do whatever meets your needs; price, features, brand confidence, availability of parts, etc.
It wasn't long ago they were ragging on Weller because they failed to put a fuse on the "correct" side of the transformer!

[mvs]

I know there is probably quite a bit of preference towards one over the other, but should I snag the Weller WE1010NA or is the Hakko possibly better? I've read quite a bit about both, so now I'm just torn between the two, but I know either is better than what I'm hearing about this X-tronics now.

FX888 and WE1010 have quite similar performance. Dave has made a review of them in EEVblog #1063.





If you plan to do a lot of high thermal mass soldering, i would recomend to look for a cartridge based irons (JBC T245, Hakko T12/T15, Pace ADS200) or induction irons (Metcal, Quick, Goot).

 

[Zai Kajou]

That's the video I was looking for, thanks!

Definitely a nice lil review video, haha, looks like it's pretty much a draw, maybe the Weller is better at showing tip temp, but the Hakko is somewhat less costly, unless there is some kind of discount for them at TEquipment for EEVblog or something, the Hakko seems nice, but that UI would probably mess with me a bit.

Gave me some good insight, but still a bit of a tough decision between the two, appears even he couldn't call a clear winner, haha

Thanks so much for all the info so far everyone, greatly appreciate it

[RayRay]

I'd suggest you get a T12 station from Aliexpress & an FG-100 replica (for temperature calibiration).
This would cost you way less than a Hakko/Weller, and would perform just as good!
The best thing about these T12 stations is that the heating element is built-in to each tip (no need to ever fiddle with replacing a fried heating element!)

[helius]

The clone T12 stations are typically calibrated to clone T12 cartridges, not pukka Hakko T12/T15 cartridges. And that is a problem because the clone T12 cartridges' quality is all over the map: many of them have garbage plating.

Sticking to major brands, I have never needed to use a temperature calibrator.

[RayRay]

The clone T12 stations are typically calibrated to clone T12 cartridges, not pukka Hakko T12/T15 cartridges. And that is a problem because the clone T12 cartridges' quality is all over the map: many of them have garbage plating.

Sticking to major brands, I have never needed to use a temperature calibrator.

They're not really "calibirated" to anything by default, that part has to be done manually (and I think it's definitely important to calibirate the temperature when using a soldering station) otherwise, you might go way higher/lower than needed, and potentially damage what you're working on. The replica FG-100 (tip theromometer) actually works very well. Anyhow, you can also use original Hakko tips on T12 replica stations (but the Chinese tips IMO would do perfectly fine, they're the only one I use, and my experience has actually been quite different, as their quality has been consistent, and they've last a very long time!) also, see this video:

[Zai Kajou]

  Also, my understanding is a lot of those are in aluminum cases now and not the plastic ones, and usually the cases aren't grounded when they should be, or so I've read, so that seems like a bit of a hazard in itself of at least a possible shock maybe?


  And also after looking more at the Weller and seeing the video Dave made awhile back about it not having a mains fuse at all.. that kinda gives it a knock down, or have they started adding fuses nowadays?

[RayRay]

  Also, my understanding is a lot of those are in aluminum cases now and not the plastic ones, and usually the cases aren't grounded when they should be, or so I've read, so that seems like a bit of a hazard in itself of at least a possible shock maybe?

Most of em are grounded at the AC level (incl the iron itself), but not on the chasis level, so you're correct on that part.
That said, they're usally painted with non-conductive paint (you'd get no continuity from it on a multimeter) so it's not really a huge safety issue, but it can easily be fixed with a drill and the right knowhow (and you can also solder a wire with a ground loop to the DC minus on the bottom of the power supply board, and add it to the mix, so even DC>DC leakage would trip the breaker, but that's being extra) If you're overly concered though (and can't be bothered addressing it by hand) you could either get a T12 station that has a DC input jack (and use an external DC power supply) or build one yourself, along with a plastic chasis, like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32861161089.html Whichever option you'd end up going with, I guarnatee you you'd very very satisfied from the station! These T12 replicas provide an amazing price/quality ratio. Also, I'd suggest you get the Hakko FH300 (Stand) from ebay.

[BrokenYugo]

Another vote for if cheap China station then go T12. I have a Yihua 936/888 style station and it works but I find myself keeping the largest tips possible fitted and cranking the heat up for anything heavy, because while it has something like a 50 watt heater it struggles to couple that into the tip. Especially with the knockoff undersize heater and knockoff undersize tips.

[Zai Kajou]

  Yeah, I was looking at the KSGER STM32 v2.1s on Aliexpress at one point, and was really tempted, but after seeing so many different reviews about quality, I decided to go with the Hakko, just for the sake of safety.

Although at some point I might pick up one as a backup/space saver to use in a different room, once I can confidently make sure it's fully safe.

  So after looking over the options several times, I decided to go with the Hakko afterall, the more I looked at it, the more it kinda grew on me, to me it has like an 80s color scheme vibe feel to me, and it was on sale from TEquipment and the extra 6% made it well worth it and below 90$

 So in terms of equipment I have a Quick 957DW+ for hot air coming, the Hakko, and then for a de-soldering gun I picked up one of those lil ZD-915 ones from Ebay for cheaper than Amazon, tested it for continuity and it seems to be grounded good.

Now I just need to pick up a good little fan for smoke, etc, probably something to definitely not cheap out on.

Definitely appreciate all the advice, glad I came across this place.

[Microdoser]

After trying it out and using it for a couple of months, I would seriously consider a TS-100, especially if you flash it with the third party firmware. It is an exceptional iron for the price (about €55). You will need to move far up the price brackets before you find a better iron. It uses the system with the heating element in the tip. It heats up fast and holds temperature well.

If you are looking at hot air stations you will find the Atten ST-862D hard to beat, especially at the price point (€159.00). Like the Ts-100, it compares well to hot air stations costing twice as much or more.

Sure, there are better products, there always are better products, but you will spend much much more to buy them.

EDIT: The station you mention seems to use the same system as the 900M style with the central ceramic core heater. I used to use those and for years soldered happily, but I would never go back after trying the irons with the heating element in the tip.

It also seems to have lots of bolted on 'extras' like PCB holders, solder holders etc. I find in use that it is more useful to have those as separate items, and often they are added to make a lower quality soldering iron appear better quality.

And I also see you have placed orders for equipment already

I am sure you will be happy with your purchases and wish you good soldering!

[Wallace Gasiewicz]

We ended up with an X Tronics station at the shop. It came with a bunch of radios we purchased from someone. Hot Air and soldering, not suction.
We have replaced the Iron about once a year and replaced the hot air handpiece heater. It also burned up its transformer, so that was replaced also...OH one of the rocker switches also broke.
Parts were inexpensive but we had to find a transformer in the junk pile.....they did not have any.
We now only use it for heating shrink tubing.
Wally

[wizard69]

That's the video I was looking for, thanks!

Definitely a nice lil review video, haha, looks like it's pretty much a draw, maybe the Weller is better at showing tip temp, but the Hakko is somewhat less costly, unless there is some kind of discount for them at TEquipment for EEVblog or something, the Hakko seems nice, but that UI would probably mess with me a bit.

User interface is very important.    Some stations have terrible user interfaces and they are often considered top end on the forums.    Beyond that ergonomics is very important if you are going to be at it for awhile.   I have rather big hands for example and prefer irons with a bit more bulk to them.    However there are situations where the thinnest iron is going to be at advantage.

Gave me some good insight, but still a bit of a tough decision between the two, appears even he couldn't call a clear winner, haha

There will never be a clear winner because there are so many differences in user needs and preferences.    In general go with what fits your budget and has the user interface you prefer.   Oh and maybe more importantly is easy to get parts for.

Thanks so much for all the info so far everyone, greatly appreciate it

Well we can try!

Ultimately you have to make the choice, if you are just starting out consider a low end solution.   You would be far better off spending your budget on other things getting started.   If 2-3 years from now you see a need then upgrade.

As to what is a better place to spend your money, consider a good DMM or two.   A few basic but quality hand tools and prototyping equipment are always a good investment.    I'd go so far as to say buying a good scope before a high end soldering station makes a lot of sense.

I started out with really crappy soldering irons and frankly never had the desire for better for a very long time.    However due to the lack of money I really wanted some basic instruments.   In a nut shell, instruments let you explore your circuits and debug.   A soldering iron doesn't offer much for learning except for building your soldering skills.

[antenna]

I have the 5040-XTS-XR3 and I couldnt be more happy with it. The only issues i had with it was the button combination to switch between °C and °F did not work and it didnt come with replacement elements. I reported the temp display issue and they sent a replacement with the same issue.  As for the heating elements, i complained about that too and the company sent me replacements (which I have not needed to use in 3 years time) stating that the user manual's promise of included replacements was an error. Even if they stole the design, it works really well other than not reading in °F. I am very happy with it.

[luddite]

I recently bought a combo (youyue 8586)  after spending way to much time checking endless reviews of the type.

I have very good (read expensive) soldering irons inc Weller, but I have to say, with this unit it actually makes it look like I know what I am doing.

The iron heats up in around 10 seconds has a reasonably fine tip and solders well, Quite happy with it, including the hot air gun part.  cost was £48 uk I think
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I also have a mad idea (off topic a bit I know) about using the hot air bit to repair broken down (misted) D/G units.
I have seen them made and the edge has a spacer bar containing what I assume are silica gel beads edged with bitumen.

My idea is to put 1 hole in the side (top edge) & one at the bottom, connect the unit to the bottom hole using an appropriate heat resistant pipe/hose and on a warm setting see if it will "dry out" the unit
Then if all goes well, I will pump roofing bitumen into both holes using my mastic gun to seal.

Just an idea but worth a try I guess as to replace the units on my patio (laminated glass) it is £450  ouch

[antenna]

just make sure whatever you choose has exchangeable tips. I dont mean the screw in type common to weller wood burners, im talking the kind that have a collar and sleeve holding down a tip that slides over the ceramic heating element. Mine came with many different tips, some huge and some small enough to solder SMD parts (like those BB175 varactors that are 1mm long.)