| Electronics > Beginners |
| Recreating mod chip designed for the Playstation 1. |
| << < (3/16) > >> |
| Katcher:
I honestly have zero idea how any of that even works. I'm just recreating the original mod chip like in the image. It's also the only way things will fit on the PCB. I could bring the location of the microcontroller down a little further if that might help? |
| james_s:
Is there a reason the pcb needs to be that exact shape and size? The fact that someone else made it that way doesn't mean you have to. Personally rather than reinvent the wheel I think I'd just buy a SOIC prototyping board, you can get them for under a buck from China. |
| Katcher:
--- Quote from: james_s on November 05, 2018, 04:49:00 pm ---Is there a reason the pcb needs to be that exact shape and size? The fact that someone else made it that way doesn't mean you have to. Personally rather than reinvent the wheel I think I'd just buy a SOIC prototyping board, you can get them for under a buck from China. --- End quote --- Space. It's going to be attached to the underside of the PU-18 motherboard around where the EJECT button of the console is when looking it it from above. The smaller the better. The initial square design is much easier to compact if needed where as a more rectangular shape resulting from the pins facing the left and right wouldn't be if I want to make the pads as easy to solder to as possible. 11x11mm Modchip PCB design: Funky Space Invader looking PCB(Approx. 14x11mm): The design of the third one is a bit Space Invader looking down to eliminating as much unneeded space. I'm also using a new lib(that is what it's called right?) for the PIC12F508-I/SN I'm gonna be using which appears smaller than the one I used at first. I'll need to update the first and second designs with that one if it is. Considering the size of the entire PCB and given how close things are anyway with the layout I prefer, do I really need to worry about it as much? |
| KL27x:
Don't make the pads so big. Bigger != better. The size of wire you are going to be soldering to them is probably 30AWG solid. The pad you want is maybe 50 mil by 50 mils. If you have extra space, you are better served to turn it into extra clearance around the pads. If for no other reason, this is easier on your eyes when you install it. Looking at a sea of shiny solder blobs, it is taxing to try to see a tree for the forest. Also in this square design, you have no clearance between pads and traces. This is bad. The soldermask is not going to perfectly align with the copper, and the default soldermask opening is slightly larger than the pad*; you can make a board where you can solder a wire and the end of the wire ends up touching the edge of the trace or plane that is running alongside, peeking under the misaligned soldermask. Around hand solder pads, I try to make clearance at least 20 thousandths on a rigid board, and I like even more if there is unused space. *If your software allows to change the size of the soldermask, and you wanted maximum strength of the pads to reduce risk of delamination through multiple reworking, you could make the pads as large as possible but leave the soldermask openings the aforementioned 50 mil by 50 mils. But not all software allows for that. |
| Mr. Scram:
You called and they listened. Some background on how it works. https://hackaday.com/2018/11/05/how-the-sony-playstation-was-hacked/ |
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