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| Removing enamel from coated wire |
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| KL27x:
^Product information states: Requires a temperature of 400℃ + to remove enamel ?? Been done tried too many of these to have any sort of optimism. Esp at the price and product description. --- Quote ---I've never had problems with it, sticking a fresh cut end into a blob of solder on the iron works a treat --- End quote --- Might just be difference in preferred soldering temps. :-// I have reasons to not like going too high. Screws up a lot of other mojo to me. You don't have to strip it; you just have to clean your iron off before every joint. Not worth the tradeoff of just stripping kynar, to me, but I got really good at stripping kynar. This topic seems to reveal a huge divide in personal preference for reasons which might be less than obvious. For instance: --- Quote ---sticking a fresh cut end into a blob of solder on the iron works a treat --- End quote --- 1. This is stripping. Not much different from just stripping a wire. It's not like you just take the wire and solder it to the joint. (Unless your joint is a big/hot enough blob to strip it as you solder?) 2. The cut end? Deal breaker. You have to cut the second side of the wire and turn your pcb around and pick this wire end with tweezers to solder it. I hardly ever solder a kynar wire like that. I strip a big chunk off the end, solder that, then break the insulation on the other end in the middle of the wire and slide it down. Then solder the second end. Without ever letting go of the wire or having to turn the pcb this way or that. When your second end is cut, you have to turn around the pcb. You have to reacquire the wire with tweezers. You have to get it to the joint, and the wire will twist in your tweezers and always point up away from the joint in the wrong direction (well, at least 19 times out of 20). So you bend it the way you need it and bring it back to the joint, and the wire punks you. As you get it closer, it twists and turns the other way. If you strip a kynar wire in the middle, you just bend it to go where you want and it stays there. It doesn't slip or twist in your tweezers cuz you don't use tweezers at any point. The extra wire is wrapped around your finger. |
| langwadt:
--- Quote from: KL27x on July 29, 2019, 11:42:11 pm ---^Product information states: Requires a temperature of 400℃ + to remove enamel ?? Been done tried too many of these to have any sort of optimism. Esp at the price and product description. --- Quote ---I've never had problems with it, sticking a fresh cut end into a blob of solder on the iron works a treat --- End quote --- Might just be difference in preferred soldering temps. :-// I have reasons to not like going too high. Screws up a lot of other mojo to me. You don't have to strip it; you just have to clean your iron off before every joint. Not worth the tradeoff of just stripping kynar, to me, but I got really good at stripping kynar. This topic seems to reveal a huge divide in personal preference for reasons which might be less than obvious. For instance: --- Quote ---sticking a fresh cut end into a blob of solder on the iron works a treat --- End quote --- 1. This is stripping. Not much different from just stripping a wire. It's not like you just take the wire and solder it to the joint. (Unless your joint is a big/hot enough blob to strip it as you solder?) 2. The cut end? Deal breaker. You have to cut the second side of the wire and turn your pcb around and pick this wire end with tweezers to solder it. I hardly ever solder a kynar wire like that. I strip a big chunk off the end, solder that, then break the insulation on the other end in the middle of the wire and slide it down. Then solder the second end. Without ever letting go of the wire or having to turn the pcb this way or that. When your second end is cut, you have to turn around the pcb. You have to reacquire the wire with tweezers. You have to get it to the joint, and the wire will twist in your tweezers and always point up away from the joint in the wrong direction (well, at least 19 times out of 20). If you strip a kynar wire in the middle, you just bend it to go where you want and it stays there. The extra wire is wrapped around your fingers and doesn't twist and stick and point wherever it wants. --- End quote --- I hardly ever solder wires like that on a board unless it is a bodge wire and SMD |
| KL27x:
Me either. I can put in bodge wires to traces and SMD pins with the kynar like this almost all the time. I bend form the middle section of exposed wire over the point of a micro chisel (other end of the stripper) to get it where it can be connected (to say line up over a short section of scraped trace) and it actually remains lined up when I solder, make joint, shear it off. To a PCB pin/pad, bend the end into an L or more acute bend to get it to touch where you want and not short. Pie's the limit when the wire stays placed and oriented how you want it to while soldering it. Jumpers short as a even having just a few mm insulation, no problem. Just have to leave plenty of exposed wire on the first end, to slide the insulation bead down. Takes just a tiny spell to figure out which end has to be soldered first to get it to go seamlessly. Rarely, rarely, ever have to cut the second end of the wire prior to soldering. I have a proper iron stand, so swapping between iron and stripping/cutting tool is very easy without looking. The main reason to use enamel wire for PCB jumpers, in my book, would be if you ever need/like to completely hand wire high density SMD stuff. If they were to obtain the right tools and learn the simple techniques, I think most enamel wire folks would jump ship. Most of the techs I have introduced and taught this method have been initially skeptical. Some are so smart or stubborn they immediately tell me why their way is better, and no, thank you. Every one that has actually tried it has been converted and thanked me, later, and their stripper/chisel is a cherished tool for PCB rework. If and when they have left the company, their stripper tool guaranteed goes with them. |
| 13hm13:
Hey folks, TS here ... cool responses. I did try the hackaday suggestion (which many of you also suggested) and it worked. Specifically, with cables on my Sennheiser IE-8 (in-ear monitor 'phones). I simply dunked the enamel wire in drop of rosin flux. Then used a std. pencil iron to heat up the enameled wire. The enamel came off almost immediately. And resoldering the wire was, hence, trivial. So, with that lighter, I've been a fool all these years!! BTW: The real bitch of this cable is separating the Kevlar fibers from the wire stands. |
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