The challenge in a guitar pedal is to do it with sufficiently low current to not muller the 9V PP3 size battery (Which is where photomos usually fails) and to do the switching slowly enough to not cause charge injection clicks in what can be an annoyingly high Z circuit.
Suggestion: A couple of caps and some large resistors to move the audio reference up to the +9V rail, and just switch to ground to cut the fet off? -6V (Flat battery) will do it and -9V will do it easily.
Cost is probably three or four 1M resistors a couple of 100nF caps and the jfet, if you need better isolation then you can add a second jfet as a series/shunt sort of switch.
A 9v battery could power a CD4053 for years.
You can place the 9v on the VDD and VEE with the GND connected a 10meg between +&- of the battery for a +&- 4.5v dual supply system.
One side of the switch would be open and the other tied to GND, wiring the 3 switched in parallel for the low impedance short to GND when needed.
Instead of a 9v bat, 2 lithium coin cells could be used instead, offering 10 to 20 years battery life for this circuit, though a 9v to 2x9v batteries would get the 'ON' resistance short to GND down below 10 ohm as the CD4053's on resistance shrinks with larger supplies.
Anyways, if it is a problem with making a dumb guitar pedal mute, none of this is needed. The J-fet would have the source at gnd, drain at the signal, and the 9v battery would have a 2x series 1meg from + to -, with the center of those resistors to GND. Now, you have a +4.5v and -4.5v to drive the gate driven through a 10meg series resistor. No extra batteries needed.
I was a bit quick to dismiss old fashioned analogue switches.
You're on the right track, but the AC signal needs a low impedance path. The problem is, with an AC signal, the current flows in both directions and connecting one side of the switch to 0V could cause problems.
I would recommend the newer CD74H4066.
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/cd74hc4066.pdfRemember the analogue switches need all of the voltages connected to them to be within supply rails.
Connect the both sides of the analogue switches to either supply rail with a potential divider. One side needs to go to either supply rail, depending on which one is the least noisy, via a large capacitor. The other needs to go to the signal, again via a large capacitor, which unfortunately needs to be non-polarised.
In the above schematic C2 could be two 22µF electrolytic capacitors connected back-to-back, to make a 11µF capacitor. Here's an example of two polarised 10µF capacitors used to make a 5µF non-polarised capacitor.
You might need to use 1M resistors, rather than 10M, because it'll take ages (several minutes) to charge the capacitors, which might have too higher leakage to ever fully charge. Tantalum might be the best choice for this circuit.