Pretty general advice should pay off I think.
In addition to the above:
Use flux liberally. Practice with leaded solder if possible (the lower melting point and viscosity help greatly).
After tinning one pad, position the part with tweezers, and solder that pad. This way the part sits flat on the board, you can center it perfectly over its footprint, and complete one solder joint. Move to the other side and solder that.
If you're doing the PCB design as well, prefer longer pads -- more open soldering area means more contact for the iron's tip. This is less important on side-metallized parts (most chip R/L/Cs), but bottom-metallized parts like this (and a lot of LEDs, and some diodes) absolutely require it -- else you need a hot-air machine.
Also, get a soldering iron tip that's wedge shaped rather than rounded or conical. The larger radius rounded tips won't even reach smaller pads!
If you're doing a lot of SMT, seriously consider a hot air machine. The cheap ones are quite affordable (if sketchy as hell to operate*..), and being able to shove around parts without having to poke an iron at it, without wasting solder, and without burning anything, is so much better. (By all means, do get good with the soldering iron first, though!)
*Thin wiring, poor grounding -- safety stuff like that. Expect it to burst into flames at any time, and plan accordingly.

Tim