Electronics > Beginners
Solder choice AIM Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 vs MG Chemicals 63/37 No Clean Leaded Solder
Rango:
--- Quote from: jhpadjustable on December 19, 2019, 05:15:22 am ---Watch out with RA flux. Activators are corrosive and you will need to clean the flux thoroughly. You want RMA for general applications, or even just R or NC if you're working with something you can't clean thoroughly, like insulated stranded wire (wicking!). You can always add a stronger flux separately to joints that need it.
373°C is pretty hot for leaded solder. If anything, turn it down a few tens of degrees.
--- End quote ---
What kind of solder are you using? Throw that thing in the garbage!
Spec sheet of MG says otherwise contrary to what you said.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81h+ZhgF19L.pdf
Benefits & Features
• Eutectic alloy (liquidus = solidus temperature)
• Alloy exceeds J-STD-006C and meets ASTM B 32
purity requirements
• Flux meets J-STD-004B
• Rosin-activated flux
• Fast wetting
• Fast flowing
• Non-corrosive
• Non-conductive
General Flux Parameters
Properties Value
Residue Removal Not required
Flux Percentage 2.2%
Flux Feature Fast wetting, fast flowing, non-conductive
Shelf Life 5 y
Terry01:
It seems you need to turn your iron down a bit buddy, maybe 250-300 *C would be good depending what your doing. Keep in mind the copy irons temp readings "can" be out a little so you may end up a bit higher or lower than you expect. Get the right tools and your first few joints will tell you if your iron needs turned up or down a bit maybe even more or less than suggested .
For eg- if it's a big joint with a couple of bigger wires going to it go with the top end but if it is a new part on a nice clean board go with the lower end.
Get yourself some "decent" solder wick so you can clean the pads ready to accept the new part after de-soldering the old part.
Get a flux pen to give the pads a quick dab before accepting a new or replacement part. You also won't go wrong with some IPA or similar to give your work a quick clean after all the soldering is done.
I think if you go with that and any other advice from the more experienced guys your next pictures will look a lot better than the one posted. You need the right tools and materials or your joints etc will always look crap.
You don't need to spend 100's of $$'s to get decent stuff. I see one of the guys posted Kester solder cheap, you won't go wrong with that and the forum is full of good advice.
The fact you asked means your already on your way to better soldering. Once you have sorted the general procedure and got the right tools you'll probably hone it to suit yourself a bit as you get better. I learned from scratch asking the guys here and can do ok soldering now.
magic:
I have been a happy user of Sn60Pb40 with common SW26/1.1.2 type halide activated flux, in 2.5% concentration IIRC. It does spit drops of flux around at times and it is recommended to clean it afterwards and I always do, but it really makes the solder flow well and wet even less than pristine surfaces.
OTOH, I recently wanted to try that newfangled lead-free no-clean stuf so I got some Sn99.3/Cu0.7 with 3% 1.1.3 type halide-free flux. Despite higher flux content, it's just horrible. I mean, it kinda works, but then I tried to solder some old-ass cable to an old-ass connector which it broke off from or solder to some nickel or steel surface and it didn't want to touch them at all. Cranking temperature up did nothing either.
GerryR:
Unless you are doing very fine wire / component lead soldering (low mass), as soon as you touch the joint you are trying to solder, the temperature of the tip is sucked down, and you have to dwell longer to get back to soldering temperature, so a higher temperature than the melting point of the solder is usually desirable, along with a good technique to prevent cooking the parts. ::)
GreyWoolfe:
I use Kester 44 63/37 and MG Chemicals 835 liquid flux. I solder at 650F. However I don't use a clone. I have a Metcal MX-500 with 600 series tips and a Hakko FX-951 set at 650F. I do clean up after soldering as I want my work to look like the board wasn't touched if I have to replace parts. I prefer 63/37 over 60/40 because it is eutectic.
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