This is solid advice. The iron layer of the tip oxidizes when the tin/solder layer is very thin. Very slowly at 300C, and very fast at 380C. If you blob the tip, this keeps the oxygen off the iron.
I use bevel tips for most of my work, and the solder tends to automatically blob over the flat face (that's the important bit), so it's almost automatic. I got a reminder, though, during a specific batch job where I needed the tip very starved to avoid bridges. I had gotten lazy and kept putting the tip back in the stand dry (daring my hakko tip to ever stop working) and the tip oxidized and needed some attention after several days of this.
Where the tip oxidizes, I easily restore it to tinning/wetting again, by careful use of fine abrasive stone. Just avoid the chrome.
Even the chrome on a hakko tip is pretty thick. I tried sanding the chrome back on a CF tip, and I gave up. I resorted to prying/chipping it back with a small gouge. My goto 2.5 CF has lost some of the chrome, naturally, so it acts more like a regular bevel but still has chrome on the back of the heel, so it can do essentially all normal bevel stuff but with some benefits. I had a job where I wanted the same thing but in a 2mm, and it was a success but it took a long time to get the chrome layer back just about a 1mm or 2.
You can see the palpable thickness of the chrome layer and observe the softness of nickel layer under a stereo microscope at only some 20x. So's you can jab a blade pick right into the nickel at the edge and pry until the a bitty chip of the chrome breaks off... if you're lucky. Hakko does a good job with the chrome.