| Electronics > Beginners |
| Solder Paste Recommendations. |
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| wade7575:
The big question I really want to know is what kind of Solder Paste do you use and is the flux really easy to clean off,I just got some Amtech flux for the first time to see how it cleans off instead of using rosin flux for soldering threw hole stuff and heard the Amtech stuff cleans off really easily if they don't make a solder paste that use's their flux they should,mind you I still have to try my Amtech flux I just got it a few days ago. I'm trying to find a solder paste that is cheap but also cleans off easily,I was thinking I could get some Aim RMA solder paste as I know where to get for 28 bucks a tube but I'd rather find something cheaper if I can,that what I'm really looking to get out of this thread is what solder paste you guys use that is cheaper and good stuff. I don't see the point of buying top brand stuff and not using it all before it goes bad that's my main gripe because you never really know how much your going to use. --- Quote from: JustMeHere on September 19, 2018, 08:46:22 pm ---I have great success with using hot air to solder small things. I got hot air so I could solder 0603s. Regarding clean up, I use a tooth brush and 98% rubbing alcohol. I also use a clean paper towel. The paper towel is for cleaning the bristles on your brush. If you don't, you will end up just spreading things around. Long wooden cotton swaps help. --- End quote --- |
| nanofrog:
--- Quote from: wade7575 on September 19, 2018, 04:50:55 pm ---I live in Canada and some years back when I was into RC cars the pull starters used a one way bearing and it always fouled and the guys from the USA told me to try denatured alcohol because they said it worked but don't ask me why but you can not find it in Canada...[snip]... --- End quote --- Seems you can get it as Marine Alcohol or similar labeling (for alcohol fueled stoves used on boats). Possibly even as glass cleaner. But to know if it's even usable, you'd need to read the datasheets if available. Regardless, I'm not sure it would be cheaper than isopropyl based on the above link. :palm: --- Quote from: wade7575 on September 19, 2018, 04:52:41 pm ---From what I have been told by a few guys that have used Hot Air for placing really small SMD stuff they love hot air so I don't know I guess it could just be a matter of personal preference. --- End quote --- Using hot air to solder can have its challenges, namely getting the heat and airflow settings correct to get good joints (i.e. don't blow the parts off, scorch the PCB, or lift pads). And for one-offs, you can do BGA with a hot air rework station (reliability and joint inspection not withstanding). But you can use an iron to solder almost any SMD package, IC's included using the drag method (see John Gammell's YouTube videos if you're unfamiliar with this). I do almost all of mine with an iron. Even the really small passives in conjunction with a stereo microscope can be done. For doing a lot of joints, and BGA's in particular, you'll find it both easier and more reliable to use a stencil and reflow oven. |
| wade7575:
This is just it I mainly do hobby kits and other stuff a stencil is not needed for and for me as far as using a normal iron goes I don't mind doing some SMD stuff with an iron it's when you get into the smallest SMD resistors on the market I can solder with an iron no matter how hard I try and I have gotten a few kit's like that and was not able to build them. The problem I have came into with the smallest SMD resistors on the market is that they did not leave any room for you to touch the iron to the pad no matter what size tip you use,I'm going to get some practice boards and just get good at setting the air flow and writing down what I find works good for not blowing the part's away,I have also watched a lot of SMD video's and understand not to just hold the heat on the device you want soldered you need to move the hand peace around and also preheat the that section of the board a bit as well. As far as cleaning the flux from the board I will use a rosin based flux paste if I have to and use original Krud Kutter mixed 25 to 30% with water,that's what I use now to remove rosin flux that's really thick and the alcohol won't touch,I apply liquid rosin flux with a small paint brush or Q-Tip and if it's a really crowded spot on the board I do so many and then cut the leads and do some more and that means multi layers of rosin on the board witch IPA won't touch by just rubbing it off. --- Quote from: nanofrog on September 20, 2018, 01:33:18 am --- --- Quote from: wade7575 on September 19, 2018, 04:50:55 pm ---I live in Canada and some years back when I was into RC cars the pull starters used a one way bearing and it always fouled and the guys from the USA told me to try denatured alcohol because they said it worked but don't ask me why but you can not find it in Canada...[snip]... --- End quote --- Seems you can get it as Marine Alcohol or similar labeling (for alcohol fueled stoves used on boats). Possibly even as glass cleaner. But to know if it's even usable, you'd need to read the datasheets if available. Regardless, I'm not sure it would be cheaper than isopropyl based on the above link. :palm: --- Quote from: wade7575 on September 19, 2018, 04:52:41 pm ---From what I have been told by a few guys that have used Hot Air for placing really small SMD stuff they love hot air so I don't know I guess it could just be a matter of personal preference. --- End quote --- Using hot air to solder can have its challenges, namely getting the heat and airflow settings correct to get good joints (i.e. don't blow the parts off, scorch the PCB, or lift pads). And for one-offs, you can do BGA with a hot air rework station (reliability and joint inspection not withstanding). But you can use an iron to solder almost any SMD package, IC's included using the drag method (see John Gammell's YouTube videos if you're unfamiliar with this). I do almost all of mine with an iron. Even the really small passives in conjunction with a stereo microscope can be done. For doing a lot of joints, and BGA's in particular, you'll find it both easier and more reliable to use a stencil and reflow oven. --- End quote --- |
| FlyingHacker:
I’ve been having good luck with the MG leaded no clean paste. I just wish I had a finer syringe to apply it. Some very small components, like micro USB port pins (some are smaller than others), required applying the paste with a sewing needle because I did not have a small enough hollow needle. This actually worked quite well, and then hot air at the right temperature (I think 405F, IIRC, but don’t quote me on that) soldered it right down. First time I tried with too little heat. That won’t work.... just watch the airflow doesn’t blow parts away, and keep the nozzle moving. Heat tape on anything else nearby. |
| joeyjoejoe:
Is there a no-clean flux that cleans easily with Isopropyl? I have ChipQuik SMD tacky flux, and IPA doesn't seem to clean it after even with a nylon brush. Board stays tacky. I'd prefer to get a flux that cleans easily with IPA as IPA is something that I keep around the house easily enough and use for many other things. |
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