Electronics > Beginners
Solder Paste Recommendations.
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bson:
No problems with MG Chemicals leaded, and as noted I don't really think it needs cleaning.  This is what it looks like; populated this board a few days ago.  (Chip is a 0.65mm SSOP, an NXP 74LVC827APW.)  With enough solder to form fillets and clean surface bonds, but nowhere near huge bloated blobs there won't be enough flux to get all over, and no real reason to clean unless you do controlled impedance stuff.  At least not for one-off prototypes.  The cap is 0402, and the traces 8mil. 

wade7575:
bson I picked up some MG Chemicals stuff off of ebay 2 days ago so I can start using my Quick 861DW and try out some practice boards that I have as well,I also ordered so Mechanic brand stuff as well because from what I have heard it supposed to be the king of the cheap stuff but I did not feel like waiting anywhere between 3 weeks to 3 months for it to show up.

I find it odd that no where on MG Chemicals stuff do they list the micron size or even the heat at witch it melt's at but I already from what others have said it's 183C,the MG stuff is not the cheapest but it's not the most money either and I like the fact they have a pretty good name and it can be easier then many other brands.
nanofrog:
Just look up the alloy.

63/37 melts at 183C for example.
jmelson:

--- Quote from: joeyjoejoe on September 20, 2018, 01:08:50 pm ---Is there a no-clean flux that cleans easily with Isopropyl?

--- End quote ---
If you INTEND to clean the board, use WS (Water Soluble) paste.  It works better than NC, in my opinion, and washes off easily with either water or solvent.

Jon
jmelson:

--- Quote from: nanofrog on September 20, 2018, 01:40:18 pm ---
--- Quote from: wade7575 on September 20, 2018, 02:48:31 am ---...[snip]...it's when you get into the smallest SMD resistors on the market I can't solder with an iron no matter how hard I try and I have gotten a few kit's like that and was not able to build them.
--- End quote ---
I'm not sure how you're trying to do this, but the basic methodology will work with any size passive.
* Tin one of the pads.
* Flux the newly tinned pad as well as the un-tinned pad (one tinned, one not is based on new PCB).
* Place the part with tweezers with one hand, and hold the part in place. Now touch the tinned pad & part with the iron to tack that end to the pad.
* Solder the other side, then come back, add some additional flux to the tacked side, and finish soldering it.
--- End quote ---
Actually, I tin the first pad quickly, it leaves plenty of flux for later.  Then, hold the part as you say and touch the iron to the pre-tinned pad, the part drops to the PCB surface.  Remove iron, a second later remove tweezers.  Then solder 2nd pad.  No need to go back and touch up first side.  You can do this with solder paste, but I do it with small diameter wire solder.  I have probably done about  100,000 components this way.  Much less, now that I have a P&P machine.

Jon
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