Author Topic: soldering.  (Read 26362 times)

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Offline Stuartambient

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #25 on: July 06, 2016, 10:00:07 pm »
You will probably want to start with 3 basic tip styles:
The T18-D12 is my general purpose goto tip.

Can I ask what the T18-K (in the pic) is used for?  I have one and use it to cut braided sleeving ;) 
Thanks!
 

Offline mariush

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #26 on: July 06, 2016, 10:30:23 pm »
See here: https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_k.html

Good for soldering surface mounted devices, useful when soldering with solder paste (apply paste over all leads on one side of the chip and heat the leads with the blade) ...  and you can see the examples on that page.

You can check other tips from that drop down at the top of that page.
 

Offline Stuartambient

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #27 on: July 06, 2016, 11:54:37 pm »
See here: https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_k.html

Thanks, sometimes I forget to use the search function.  :-//
There was a site I referenced that left the blade tip out.  Also if I remember correctly watching Dave's soldering video he may have stressed the chisel as the go to for just about anything. I'd have to go back and confirm but I think he felt the conical was even a bit of a waste. 
 

Offline BMack

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #28 on: July 07, 2016, 03:56:53 am »
See here: https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_k.html

Thanks, sometimes I forget to use the search function.  :-//
There was a site I referenced that left the blade tip out.  Also if I remember correctly watching Dave's soldering video he may have stressed the chisel as the go to for just about anything. I'd have to go back and confirm but I think he felt the conical was even a bit of a waste.

I used to use conical, once I tried a chisel tip I never went back. It's night and day difference, chisel tip is the only way to go. If you need a smaller point, just turn it so the corner of the tip is what you're using to make contact.
 

Offline nanofrog

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #29 on: July 07, 2016, 05:45:38 am »
A bevel/hoof shape makes a good general purpose tip as well IME (preferably tinned on the face only).
 

Offline tautech

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #30 on: July 07, 2016, 05:49:05 am »
You will probably want to start with 3 basic tip styles:
The T18-D12 is my general purpose goto tip.

Can I ask what the T18-K (in the pic) is used for?  I have one and use it to cut braided sleeving ;) 
Thanks!
Very good at removing SMD passives as you can heat both pads at once and either scrape them off or pick the component off with tweezers.
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Offline nanofrog

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #31 on: July 07, 2016, 06:28:14 am »
Can I ask what the T18-K (in the pic) is used for?  I have one and use it to cut braided sleeving ;) 
Thanks!
Very good at removing SMD passives as you can heat both pads at once and either scrape them off or pick the component off with tweezers.
I haven't seen it mentioned, but a knife shape is also good for welding plastic (i.e. form plastic pins into plastic rivets, edge welding, ...).
 

Offline tautech

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #32 on: July 07, 2016, 07:17:05 am »
Can I ask what the T18-K (in the pic) is used for?  I have one and use it to cut braided sleeving ;) 
Thanks!
Very good at removing SMD passives as you can heat both pads at once and either scrape them off or pick the component off with tweezers.
I haven't seen it mentioned, but a knife shape is also good for welding plastic (i.e. form plastic pins into plastic rivets, edge welding, ...).
Yes, of course but a little OT don't you think.
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Offline R005T3rTopic starter

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #33 on: July 07, 2016, 08:17:56 am »
Can I ask what the T18-K (in the pic) is used for?  I have one and use it to cut braided sleeving ;) 
Thanks!
Very good at removing SMD passives as you can heat both pads at once and either scrape them off or pick the component off with tweezers.
I haven't seen it mentioned, but a knife shape is also good for welding plastic (i.e. form plastic pins into plastic rivets, edge welding, ...).

For molting/modeling plastic I use a specific tool: dremel versatip 2000. It's more handy and it can cut all kind of plastics, even hardened ones!
Also, I'm searching for the right solderm but multicore brand semms quite hard to find. Is Kester any good?
« Last Edit: July 07, 2016, 09:07:40 am by R005T3r »
 

Offline nanofrog

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #34 on: July 07, 2016, 07:37:52 pm »
Yes, of course but a little OT don't you think.
Generally speaking, I'd agree.

I mentioned it however, as I ran into a couple of instances where that was how an item I was trying to fix was assembled.  |O

Is Kester any good?
It's excellent stuff.  :-+

I highly recommend Kester 44 (RA flux) in 63/37 for general purpose, as it works well on new and oxidized stuff.  There are 3 different core sizes, and I'd suggest going with the largest, 66 (= 3.0 - 3.3% flux by weight). For diameter, I'd recommend .032" or .025" as it works well with both PTH & larger SMD (stuff easy to do by hand without much, or any magnification). Any smaller, and you run the risk of keeping heat on the joint too long due to the length of solder that has to be fed in. Too large, and you don't have decent control of how much solder is applied (get way too much).

FWIW, I've Kester, Multicore, Alpha Metals (Cookson), and even some stuff from RadioShack (small spools of 62/36/2 silver bearing & some .062" 60/40 for tinning large gauge wire).

Other quality brands would include AIM (American Iron & Metals) and Indium.
 

Offline MarkF

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #35 on: July 07, 2016, 08:42:47 pm »
+1 here.  I use the Kester 44, 63/37, .031" diameter solder all the time now.
 

Offline VK5RC

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #36 on: July 07, 2016, 11:10:51 pm »
+1 re solder with a little bit (2%) of silver,  as I don't use much solder,  it is my main solder,  0.5mm,  I recall it is Multicore brand.  I recall less 'whiskers'  and flows nicely,  minimal issues with Techtronix ceramic silver plated standoffs either.
Whoah! Watch where that landed we might need it later.
 

Offline R005T3rTopic starter

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #37 on: July 08, 2016, 09:12:31 am »
Alright. kester is a good brand.

As Dave said, I'll probably go for 63/37 it's more modern and you can't go wrong. For the thickness I'll use 0.39mm or 0.51 Don't know which one...
Also, what's the difference between RA, RMA, no clean solder? There's also a water-soluble type? Which one should I use?
 

Offline mariush

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #38 on: July 08, 2016, 10:55:25 am »
ra = rosin activated
rma = rosin mild active (probably a bit weaker than ra?)
These two depending on the concentration and composition sometimes leave a layer of brownish stuff after you finish soldering (the rosin) which can sometimes be somewhat conductive (or... well, let's say if you work with high voltages this left over flux could decrease the resistance between two wires and cause electric arcs). In general they don't need to be cleaned but they can be easily cleaned if neded with isopropyl alcohol or other electronic circuit safe solvents

no clean = a flux different than ra or rma, that can be left on the board without having to clean it (it's usually not conductive, leaves minimal dust or other crap etc) ... it can be cleaned if you want with isopropyl alcohol or other substances but you don't have to.  Don't know if it's stronger or weaker than RA or RMA

Stay away from water soluble fluxes, from what I heard (but I admit I'm not so experienced in this area) they're strong fluxes but HAVE to be cleaned from leads and boards after soldering and it's often hard to completely clean such fluxes if you're amateur and in time the fluxes can do damage.

I use solder with no clean flux, in 2% concentration, bought a 500g spool a couple of years ago), it's Multicore 0.56mm 63/37  Type Crystal 502 , here's the exact link : http://www.digikey.com/short/344qdc

I'm very happy with it. 0.56mm is just right for most soldering, 0.51mm would also work just fine..

If you go with thicker stuff, it's harder to solder surface mount stuff.
If you go lower at 0.39 mm or something like that, it may help you if you plan to do a lot of surface mount soldering, like soldering stuff that's lower than 0805 resistors or capacitors but when it comes to bigger stuff like large through hole capacitors or to-220 parts, you would find yourself having to feed a lot of solder wire into the area you want to solder so you don't get such fine control over the solder quantity and in addition, you would find the flux inside the solder often not being enough when you solder big things. 
Sure, a simple solution would be to cut two strands of solder wire from the spool and twist them together to get a thicker strand of solder wire but it's annoying to do this over and over again when you have to.
 
 

Offline R005T3rTopic starter

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #39 on: July 08, 2016, 12:55:51 pm »
Thank you for the tips  :-+

Well, it's time to add something to my cart, just to estimate how much I'm going to spend. For now I'll buy:
1.  Kester-Solder 24-6337-0010 (RA solder)
2.  MG-Chemicals 835-P  (RA flux)
3.  MG-Chemicals 4140-P (flux remover)
4.  SOLDER-WICK ROSIN .110" 5'

Should I change something?
 

Offline GreyWoolfe

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #40 on: July 08, 2016, 01:20:42 pm »
Thank you for the tips  :-+

Well, it's time to add something to my cart, just to estimate how much I'm going to spend. For now I'll buy:
1.  Kester-Solder 24-6337-0010 (RA solder)
2.  MG-Chemicals 835-P  (RA flux)
3.  MG-Chemicals 4140-P (flux remover)
4.  SOLDER-WICK ROSIN .110" 5'

Should I change something?

I don't know that you need the flux remover.  IPA works fine for that.  I have the 70% wipes, and 91 and 99% bottles with make up removal pads.  Like Nanofrog mentioned, .031 on the Kester solder is good all around.  If you need thicker just twist some together.

Mariush, you are correct, RMA is weaker than RA.  I also use the MG Chemicals 835P.  I have one of the cheep eBay squeeze bottles and a syringe for precise placement.
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Offline Augustus

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #41 on: July 08, 2016, 01:56:04 pm »
Thank you for the tips  :-+

Well, it's time to add something to my cart, just to estimate how much I'm going to spend. For now I'll buy:
1.  Kester-Solder 24-6337-0010 (RA solder)
2.  MG-Chemicals 835-P  (RA flux)
3.  MG-Chemicals 4140-P (flux remover)
4.  SOLDER-WICK ROSIN .110" 5'

Should I change something?

Check prices. Kester seems to be popular in the North American region so it gets a lot of recommendations by US and Canadian users. But it is quite exotic in Europe. So be prepared to pay a hefty premium on their products over here, not because they are superior to other big brands but because they are only sold in small volumes. If you buy Multicore, Felder, Stannol or Interflux you may be able to save a lot of money...  ;)
Greetings from the Black Forest, Germany
 

Offline gblades

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #42 on: July 08, 2016, 01:57:05 pm »
Any suggestions where to buy some solder in the UK. Digikey would be fine but I dont have anything else I need at the moment to get up to the £50.

Places like CPC and Rapid Electronics sell the Warton solder in 63/37.
The only <0.7mm stuff I could find was https://www.rapidonline.com/warton-metals-omega-63-37-fast-flow-2-flux-solder-wire-24swg-0-559mm-500g-85-6156 which is rosin free so not sure how that compares to RA/RMA etc...

https://www.rapidonline.com/warton-metals-future-hf-63-37-fast-flow-2-flux-solder-wire-22swg-0-711mm-500g-85-6274 is a no clean flux type so at least I know what I am getting but only 0.7mm.

Has anyone had any experience with the Warton solder?

The reason I ask is I am getting back into surface mount and I got out my spool of thin solder to find that the outside edge has oxidized and gone white so not ideal to use!
 

Offline Stuartambient

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #43 on: July 08, 2016, 01:58:08 pm »
Some people just buy pine cone rosin and make their own flux.  The advantage to that is you can mix multiple batches with varying consistencies depending on the work.  Sometimes a thicker more paste like and some more liquid.  I prefer thick flux and use this now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UJ9ZC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's rated for least corrosive.  MG Chemicals are good though. 
 

Offline R005T3rTopic starter

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #44 on: July 08, 2016, 02:21:12 pm »
Thank you for the tips  :-+

Well, it's time to add something to my cart, just to estimate how much I'm going to spend. For now I'll buy:
1.  Kester-Solder 24-6337-0010 (RA solder)
2.  MG-Chemicals 835-P  (RA flux)
3.  MG-Chemicals 4140-P (flux remover)
4.  SOLDER-WICK ROSIN .110" 5'

Should I change something?

Check prices. Kester seems to be popular in the North American region so it gets a lot of recommendations by US and Canadian users. But it is quite exotic in Europe. So be prepared to pay a hefty premium on their products over here, not because they are superior to other big brands but because they are only sold in small volumes. If you buy Multicore, Felder, Stannol or Interflux you may be able to save a lot of money...  ;)

Kester's solder is : 57 Eur
Multicore alternative is not available in that configuration. The most close product is: 30 Eur this one here:  http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/soldering-desoldering-rework-products/solder/1310838?k=%20386851
Moreover, the product is not RA but no clean (that's not a particular issue)
 

Offline Augustus

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #45 on: July 08, 2016, 03:23:49 pm »
Check your local suppliers and don't be stuck to just one configuration... Any big brand (and in the EU way more common) 60/40 alloy will make no practical difference to 63/37 in your soldering. Chose one with 2.5% ... 3% rosin core flux of the RMA type. The more aggressive RA is only needed if you solder old components with significant oxidation on their pads/leads. And for a starter I would recommend to go with something like ~0.7mm diameter, this is way more versatile than 0.5mm in my opinion. A 500g spool of really excellent Felder "EL" 0.7mm 60/40 solder wire will set me back ~14€, 50ml of Felder "RA" type flux (for oxidized parts) some ~3€ if I buy it here from a local supplier in Germany. There should be similar deals in Italy if you search around a bit. Just stay away from the cheap Chinese stuff they sell on eBay, Banggood and similar eMarket places...  :-+
Greetings from the Black Forest, Germany
 

Offline mariush

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #46 on: July 08, 2016, 03:44:24 pm »
RS-Online is in UK and have Multicore solders in stock. They also have Stannol which is also a decent brand.

See http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/tools/soldering-desoldering-tools/solders/?sra=p&r=t#esid=4294955739&applied-dimensions=4294663223,4294813999,4294814155,4294814197,4294847209,4294964825,4294965529&sort-by=P_breakPrice1&sort-order=asc
(list of Multicore and Stannol branded solders on their site, from 0.25mm to 0.71mm diameter). Hit the arrow buttons under the column to sort by price if it's not already sorted.

Not as wide selection as I would like but here's some suggestions:

Multicore 0.5mm   62/36/2  (2% Silver) - as good as 63/37, still euctetic like 63/37 but the added silver makes it a bit more expensive (and good for surface mounted stuff that has silver on the terminations) : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/4364869/

Cheaper yet still good, still 62/36/2 :  Stannol 0.5mm Wire Solder, +179°C Melting Point, 36% Lead, 62% Tin, 2% Silver, 250g  ( 3.5% flux) : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0518040/

If you want quantity or cheaper, look at the 60/40 varieties, there's some multicore solder at 17 uk pounds for 250g or around 30-35 uk pounds for 500g in the same list.

TME.eu (Polish company) stocks Amtech and Alpha Metals solder, Amtech is ok solder if you can't find the more reputable Multicore, Kester, Stannol etc brands : http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/#id_category=112707&page=1&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC
You can also buy decent liquid flux from them (I use the AG Thermoplasty flux they stock and it's good and cheap).
Should be only a few UK pounds in shipping costs.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2016, 03:52:52 pm by mariush »
 

Offline gblades

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #47 on: July 08, 2016, 04:07:28 pm »
Thanks.

What about MBO? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0547372/
62/36/2 0.7mm with 2.6% rosin flux. Seems a good universal spec.

Or the one I mentioned earlier the Warton Future https://www.rapidonline.com/warton-metals-future-hf-63-37-fast-flow-2-flux-solder-wire-22swg-0-711mm-500g-85-6274
64/36 0.7mm 2% no clean modified rosin flux
 

Offline nanofrog

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #48 on: July 08, 2016, 04:32:15 pm »
Places like CPC and Rapid Electronics sell the Warton solder in 63/37.
The only <0.7mm stuff I could find was https://www.rapidonline.com/warton-metals-omega-63-37-fast-flow-2-flux-solder-wire-24swg-0-559mm-500g-85-6156 which is rosin free so not sure how that compares to RA/RMA etc...
IIRC, there's been a member or two that's used Warton and indicated it's decent stuff.

As per the stuff you linked, it's activity is equivalent to RMA. BTW, the resin is actually modified rosin, as is the Multicore Crystal 502 flux (activity is also that of RMA).

Here's something I found previously:
Warton 63/37, 2% RA flux, 0.7mm diameter, 500g at CPC
Cynel and Broquetas are both European manufacturers that offer 63/37. IIRC, tme.eu offers these brands.

The reason I ask is I am getting back into surface mount and I got out my spool of thin solder to find that the outside edge has oxidized and gone white so not ideal to use!
1. You can try wiping the outside of the solder with a bit of paper towel that's been dampened with alcohol.
2. Add some RA flux (or similar activity of no-clean) for the higher activity (cleans the solder, tabs, pads, ... to make a proper joint).

Well, it's time to add something to my cart, just to estimate how much I'm going to spend. For now I'll buy:
1.  Kester-Solder 24-6337-0010 (RA solder)
2.  MG-Chemicals 835-P  (RA flux)
3.  MG-Chemicals 4140-P (flux remover)
4.  SOLDER-WICK ROSIN .110" 5'

Should I change something?
Yes.

You can skip the flux cleaner, and use isopropanol (IPA), methanol, ethanol (i.e. denatured alcohol), or even make something a little stronger by mixing alcohol with either a little xylene or acetone (all of it should be available in a paint department or dedicated store).
 
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Offline tautech

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Re: soldering.
« Reply #49 on: July 08, 2016, 04:46:15 pm »
Thanks.

What about MBO? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0547372/
62/36/2 0.7mm with 2.6% rosin flux. Seems a good universal spec.

Or the one I mentioned earlier the Warton Future https://www.rapidonline.com/warton-metals-future-hf-63-37-fast-flow-2-flux-solder-wire-22swg-0-711mm-500g-85-6274
64/36 0.7mm 2% no clean modified rosin flux
Looking back at your list of tools earlier in the thread, when you upgrade to an even half decent soldering station the choice of a specific solder will be mostly insignificant to the difference a temp controlled station will make.
Get what seems to be a good brand solder for now, focus next on a station then home in on a preferred solder by grabbing mini spools to try. Keep a little of each to compare against others and you will find what you like best.
Stick to leaded unless you need the grief that comes with the muck, but if you want to treat yourself get some with a little silver in the mix for those special jobs.  ;)
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